Panama Pacific

Arrived to Panama (another delayed flight) and flew directly over the Panama Canal, which was awesome! Brian greeted me at the airport with some macrons, fresh OJ and an 🍏. Bernie (who join Brian on the passage from Colombia to Panama) was waiting in the parking garage and since my flight was delayed we hit traffic leaving the city. A nice drive to Rio Mar, where he has a beachfront house. The caretaker, Tiburcio opened the gates and to my wonderful surprise, a dog - Lassie. The sweetest, calm, loving dog I’ve been around in awhile! After a beautiful walk on the beach we had a nice meal prepared by his sisters (Maureen lived next door) housekeeper, and went for a walk afterwards.
My Wednesday 6am class was now 5am as Panama doesn’t observe daylight savings. Up early to teach the class and then off to a hike in Cerro Chame. It was a challenge, with lots of stops, but we made it up and it was easier then down as I already had chin splints from wearing tight footwear for Ashlynn’s wedding. I had been stretching prior to the hike…. So I walked sideways or backwards down the mountain.
We stopped at a store on the way back and picked up a few groceries, then back to home base and out to the ocean for a swim. The water was rough and the current strong!
The outside of this place is so amazing, several little spots to do yoga or meditation, little benches and private areas, an outdoor shower and direct beach access and a nice separate bathroom and shower from the house. However, the room configuration, water pressure and maintenance would need to be addressed before I could think about hosting a yoga retreat there.
We went for another walk to Bernie’s old homestead (he grew up in Panama) which is now rented. He also has a home that’s rented in Panama City (and two houses in USA, with Virginia Beach being his main residence).
Thursday morning Bernie, Lassie (the dog) and I did yoga and it was so great to “lead” a class again. Bernie has a daily practice but I struggle with the consistency.
Breakfasts were a delight every morning! I was once again spoiled by having my coffee made for me… and Bernie made eggs in a corn tortilla, arepas (which cheese inside), grilled cheese, fresh OJ and a mountain of fruit. This was fuel for our visit to El Valle. A community nestled into a volcanic crater. We hiked to the top of a hill (much easier then the previous day) and met some school children who were interested in chatting. Part way down we stopped at a cleared piece of land and I explored (spotting a Rufous Motmot bird) while the men stood beside the mud hut. Across the stream lived other natives, perhaps the ones that dragged drink up the hill to sell to the tourists. Near the bottom we stopped at a waterfall pool and took a refreshing dip!
We explored the market, and I had my first Guama (Ice Cream Bean) fruit. Then we visited Bernie’s property (Casa Pangea) where he will soon build, and off to an early dinner at a boutique hotel in town, before heading back to the beachfront.
On the way to El Valle, they were paving the road and there was an hour delay. We were stopped in front of a large haciendas and property (finca) for sale. Brian called to inquire and we stopped on the way back to talk to the gardener and tried to see the place but couldn’t reach the owners/ real estate folk. Back at the beach folk we talked real estate and I peeped for my Friday class while Bernie and Brian went for a walk.
We managed to do two loads of laundry while at Bernie’s, and they needed to be started at 4am due to the low water pressure. After my class, we went for a swim, showered, ate breakfast, went and bought groceries with Bernie’s CRV and back to the house to relax before the driver arrived at 12:30 to take us to Panama City.
The driver/ taxi that Bernie uses came with a nice van and it was a quick drive but for finding the self check-in hotel (Casa Arias) in Old Town, which frustrated him. We finally got there with out 10 pieces of luggage (2 suitcases, 2 backpacks, 1 canvas bag, 1 bag with hiking boots, 1 brown bag, 2 grocery bag and 2 styrofoam coolers). Luckily our room was on the ground floor, although it was the size of a postage stamp. Oddly it was burning man themed, and had a beautiful courtyard, where plants hung from the balconies above and the rain fell into the pool. We spent the rest of the day, Friday, walking around old town, taking in the heritage…. Guessing about the shiny specs on the church turret was made of oyster shells. We stopped into small shops and ice cream stores and ate at a Peruvian/ Japanese restaurant before going back to the hotel. Our picture up was at 4:30am, so a hot shower and early to bed.
It seems the hotel was a popular pick up spot for people heading to the San Blas islands, as lots were up and waiting. The driver only arrived after 5am and only had room for 1 person. Brian. He took 5 pieces of luggage (my clothing), and drove off, leaving me with a number to call. I was pissed! I called Judy Lamb who runs the tour company and she wanted a photo of the luggage (I only took pictures of three). At the same time a driver was arriving (and my new friend of 30mins, Bonnie, was getting on). The driver started to grab my luggage and put it in the van. I went with it (quickly converting my final two bags into one). We took the very back jump seat and ended up with the cooler (which made a terrible styrofoam noise) between us and the canvas bag on the floor under the cooler and my backpack on top of me… with knees to my chest for 3 hours. Still upset but grateful I was enroute although I had no idea that we would be crossing the border back into Colombia, two hours into the ride, or need money. I scrambled to find my phone/ wallet and passport. Brian had called and messaged many times to check on me.
I arrived in Puerto Carti, hundreds of people milling about, wondering where to go, what Panga (boat) to get on. Finally I spotted Brian and we moved my load to his, realizing that our boots and my suitcase was missing an had been off loaded. Finally they arrived in another vehicle and after 60-90 minutes we boarder a boat to Salardup — where Lorena has been anchored alone for 5 days.
The trip reminded me of Ashlynn and I travelling from Hopkins to Glovers Atoll in Belize.
Relief for us both when we saw Lorena and once on her, the batteries had been sufficiently recharged by the sun.
Mentally and Physically exhausted — I went for an unusual afternoon nap, before Brian invited me to snorkel a distant refer that we swam to. Being back on the boat was so nice…. The sun, the sway, the rhythm, the ability to jump off when hot, and my bed all felt great ⛵️!Read more