Day 8 Thursday 16 April Chipale

Got up at 5.30 and walked across to the Hendersons' to remove the evidence of our 'non-purchased' firewood and fire ashes. Down to the river bank for a look for animals and sunrise colours but disappointed by both.

Coffee and read on the verandah listening to the doves and other animals in the distance.

Packed up and helped load the trailer after breakfast. Left Chipale at 9.30. It had been a great campsite. As we left, we heard via the cleaner Elizabeth that there was no place for us that had been booked at Chipinda Pools (despite Graham booking it and all of us paying for it). Graham negotiated via 2 way radio that we were given alternative accommodation at the Masasam dam campsite.

We made our way via a tortuous backroad that really tested Dave's car (and his patience). On arrival we found that the cleaners needed more time so we uncoupled the trailer and headed for the Rundi River. The route slowly wound down to the causeway with some spectacular views.

Viv, Gilly and I walked across, and the whole group picnicked under a shady tree on the south bank. There were a pair of hippos in the pool below us. After a while some park rangers came along and wanted us back on the road, which we did because it was time to move.

We took the Chivilila Loop road and bounced around on the riverbank until we climbed to the viewpoint for the Chivilila Falls. What a stunning sight! And a real surprise. We ere lucky that the river was in flood (although dropping). Water pouring over rocks everywhere. Much to our surprise we discovered an elephant on a rocky outcrop above cliffs overlooking the roiling water. We wondered how it had got there. What a stunning waterfall and we enjoyed the view immensely.

Worked our way back to the main road and back to our camp-site at Masasani. Moved into our separate huts and then came together at the boma for a BBQ dinner. Boerewors and steak. Hippos grunting in the dam in front of us.

Shower in the cabin after filling up the ? with hot water in a bucket from the outside toilet. Under the mosquito net with the front blinds wide open. Hippo sounds and frogs. Slept very well.Read more