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Europe 2026
  • Pat Esler
  • Tracey Esler
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  • Pat Esler
  • Tracey Esler

Europe 2026

An open-ended adventure by Pat & Tracey Read more
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    🇭🇺 Esztergom, Hungary
  • Europe 2026
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    Budapest to Vác

    Yesterday in Hungary ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We had picked our rental bikes up the previous day so we could get an early start, although thankfully the heatwave has passed. Quite good quality KTM touring bikes, but heavy. We got an eBike for Tracey so she can lead Pat into the headwinds. The ebike, plus rack, lock and panniers probably weighs 40kg!
    The exit from Budapest went pretty well as we rode past the back of the amazing Parliament building, across the bridge and along Margaret Island, then across to the west bank of the Danube.
    The last part of the ride involved a ferry across to Vác and our very good accommodation for the night. Burgers and chips (gf for Tracey) at a nearby restaurant full of motorbikes.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    Chain BridgeHoly Trinity SquareParisi PassageParliament1Our young English friends, med student Ben & sister and girlfriend, Fyla & Isle"The Shoes"

    Budapest Part 2

    Jul 1–3 in Hungary ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    Another very warm day and another early start . We headed, via free for senior citizens, public transport, to Holy Trinity Square, probably the prime spot in Budapest. The 13th cent, Catholic Church of Our Lady of Buda Castle, aka St Matthias, and the Fisherman's Bastion are big magnificent structures and, up on the hill, provide panoramic views back over the Danube to the Hungarian Parliament building and "Pest". The church was heavily renovated in the 19th cent.
    Back over the river we wandered the old city, visited Parisi Passage and dropped in on our bike shop to finalise arrangements for picking up the bikes tomorrow afternoon.
    After an afternoon rest, we joined a Danube night cruise and took in the spectacular riverfront of Budapest.
    "The Shoes" is a monument to the Jewish people who, during WWII, were dragged from their homes, ordered to take off their shoes and shot into the river.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    Andrassy Avenue
    FIFA World Cup againOur apartment. Old building but renovated inside.Great statues around the CityOpera HouseScraffitti ?Heroes Square, still in Andeassy AvenueVajdahunyad CastleVajdahunyad Castle11Sandor, nobleman and philanthropistAnonymous, ancient historian12St Stephens Basilica5Scruffins, brownies, carrot cake and coffee

    Budapest Part 1

    Jun 29–30 in Hungary ⋅ ☀️ 38 °C

    Our flight from Tirana to Budapest was memorable only for its queues and crushes. Tirana, even at 6.30am, was crowded and chaotic - a disorganised crush for an hour at the Ryanair bag drop plus normal queuing at passport and security.
    At Liszt airport, Budapest, we queued for an hour and a half to clear passport control, even though we had previously entered the EU & been fingerprinted and eye scanned. They needed separate queues, working passport machines and officers who didn't spend half their time chatting.
    Fortunately, when we finally exited the airport, a lovely young lady in a nice cool car met us within a few minutes and whisked us into Budapest to our comfortable, central apartment. First appearances were slightly shocking - damaged entry doors, common areas a bit grotty and the central courtyard in the midst of what appears to be a neighbourhood rubbish collection. The apartment itself though has a good feel and is v well set up. After the worst of the heat had lifted, about 7pm, we headed out for a local reccy and some supplies from the supermarket & pharmacy.
    Our first full day in B, saw us sightseeing by 7am, (30°). (The apartment is in District V, where all the main old city buildings are). Budapest is a grand old city, with an abundance of beautiful and stately buildings and avenues, such as Vajdahunyad Castle, St Stephens's Basilica, the Opera House, Andrassy Avenue & Heroes Square. This is all on the "Pest" side.
    After a lunchtime haircut and an afternoon rest, we found an excellent gluten free Mexican restaurant for dinner. The gluten free options here are much better than anywhere else we have travelled this trip,.
    Tomorrow, we cross the Danube and do the " Buda" side.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    2Jazz Beach on Sunday on a heatwave.
    3Sveti Stefan IslandPat, enjoying a well earned beer at Hotel Muja Tirana airport.

    Back to Albania

    June 28 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    After a few restful days in our apartment near Kotor we are on our way to Budapest. Today we drove to a hotel near Tirana International (Mother Teresa) Airport. In the morning we fly to Budapest. The record-shattering heat dome has made it to the Balkans, and the outside temp was 37 for much of the drive, reaching 39.5 at one point.
    The hire car, a Seat Arona, is very basic but the air con works well enough.
    It was about a four hour drive, stopping at a few viewpoints along the Montenegrin coast, and about a thirty minute crawl through the border crossing.
    Now in our very nice, newly renovated room at Hotel Muja near the airport (75€, 7100LEK).    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    Manning the guard tower on the city wallsThe Sea GateST Tryphans Catholic CathedralReliquaries- a bit macabreBeautiful old books in the cathedral's attached museumPorto Montenegro, home base for the yacht crowd.2

    Kotor Montenegro

    Jun 25–29 in Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    A four day stop to recuperate and have a look at Old Town Kotor and surrounds.

  • Europe 2026
    Our cabin at the Waterfall Rafting Headquarters on Piva River
    1Waterfall Rafting CentrePiva RiverLaunching the rafts on the Tara RiverFrom our rest stop about half way.2Our first white water rafting was fun!

    Tara River Rafting

    Jun 23–24 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We didn't really know where the Waterfall Rafting Centre was, but as you drive north along the Piva River canyon you can't miss the sign on the road, so we turned off the road down a rough stony track.
    After about 1.5km we came to a parking area and a steep stepped track to a building we could see below by the river. The vehicular track was blocked by a chain at that point, so Pat left Tracey, the car and the luggage and walked down and got the ok to drive down to drop the luggage at our cabin.
    Driving back up the track to the parking area, the hire car started to make a very disturbing screeching noise. Unable to see any obvious cause, Pat decided to walk back up with Tracey in the morning to investigate before deciding what to do next. Although we had paid the hire company's full insurance which included roadside assistance (22€/day, not a hard decision to make in the Balkans), and had permission (+50€) to drive into Montenegro, we were a long way from Tirana and down an unauthorised gravel track. Happily when we walked up to investigate in the morning the noise had fixed itself. Whew!
    The Waterfall Rafting Centre is all on its own in a beautiful shady clearing next to the Piva River, with a small waterfall right across the river. The cabins are small but adequate. The off grid power stops at midnight.
    After we checked in and got settled into our cabin, we sat outside to sip our complimentary firewater. Pamela, an American woman travelling with her two young children, joined us for a long chat.
    Waterfall runs on a very late schedule, with dinner supposed to be at 8, changed to 9, actually 9:30, and breakfast from 9:00, and rafting briefing and equipping (wetsuits, boots, helmets) at 11.
    We were driven about 20km to Brstanovica where we launched the rafts. The guide in our raft was a Serb called Lazar, the lead rafting guide who had studied law but chose to work as a rafting guide, and had rafted all over the world. The other four people on our raft were an American family (very anti Trump).
    We travelled about 13km down the beautiful Tara River, with crystal clear blue water, steep forest-covered hills on both sides, and went through numerous grade 2-3 rapids. It was beautiful and great fun.
    After a very late (~3:30) lunch we hit the road for Kotor.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    Ethno restaurant, our first stop in Montenegro
    Ethno restaurantNorth-east Montenegro3Black Lake Walk, Durmitor NP1View back towards ZabljakDurmitor ring road2Curevac point walkDurmitor ring roadDurmitor ring roadDurmitor ring roadNo, not seeing double. The road along Piva Dam is amazing- the scenery, the tunnels and bridges.Piva River. Northern Montenegro

    Zabljak, Durmitor NP

    Jun 22–23 in Montenegro ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Once we had crossed into Montenegro we stopped for lunch at a restaurant in the mountains, then continued to Zabljak, the main town in the Durmitor National Park area. The next morning we went out to do the walk around Black Lake which is beautiful, and anything but black.
    After another hike up to the Curevac lookout, we drove along the north side of the Durmitor Ring scenic route. This is a very narrow scenic road. Whenever you encounter an oncoming vehicle you have to slow right down (from your max 30kph!), move over and hold your breath as the rear view mirrors almost hit. Sometimes one vehicle has to back up to a wider section.
    We had booked a river rafting tour on the Tara River, and we were heading for the Waterfall Rafting Centre to stay the night in a cabin.
    After we left the Durmitor Ring road we took a slight detour into Pluzine to get cash (needed to pay for the rafting) and petrol, then headed north along the Piva River canyon. This is quite a good road and very scenic, with many tunnels through the rock, often sharply curving.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    1Pat considering life in the Sufi monastery
    12Manastiri i DeçanitKosovan hospitality! Our coffee was free.Kosova is impressive compared to Albanian

    Kosova

    June 22 in Kosovo ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Our route from the east side of the Albanian Alps to northern Montenegro took us through Kosovo. At the border crossing the Albanian booth was unattended and the Kosovan official just waved us through!
    Once we entered Kosovo we were struck by the well-maintained appearance of everything, unlike Albania.
    We visited the Monastery Visoki Decani. It is a very important site for the Serbian Orthodox church, and is guarded by NATO troops!
    After the monastery visit we stopped at a small neighbourhood coffee joint. Blokes smoking, but... We had 2 nice cappuccinos & because we were tourists, they were free. Kosovan hospitality!
    We had a few things we wanted to see on our quick trip through Kosovo, but we had a long way to go, and when we got stuck in a traffic jam in Peja trying to get to an ATM we decided to just head for the border. Heading up the winding mountain road towards the border we passed an accident scene involving a Porche and another car.
    Once in Montenegro we drove through beautiful alpine forests of mainly conifers.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    The Ottoman-era Mesi Bridge.
    Apparently the cow stands on the bridge to get the breeze on hot days.Dinner at Koman ( gf pasta available- amazing)Koman ferry, over 60 boats in this areaA bit squeezyChaosLake Komani ferry to Fierze1From the ferryHunting for wild strawberries2Chestnut Hill home grown fresh &grilled vegetables, pickled vegetables, local feta & cousins steak.The drive up to our guesthouse is through a forest of chestnut trees.We share the road with very relaxed goats, dogs, cats, horses, donkeys, cows and chooks.Valbona RiverStorm over Valbona Alps, luckily as we were enjoying lunchThere were about a dozen horses wandering on and off the road & calmly using the footpath in Valbona

    Koman to Valbona

    Jun 19–21 in Albania ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We had driven to Koman to catch a ferry along Lake Komani the next morning. On the way to Koman we took a small detour to see the Ottoman-era Mesi Bridge. Much of the road to Koman was newly reconstructed.
    The ferry loading area was crazy busy and chaotic. The ferry was crowded, slow, and had no shade.
    The ferry took us to Fierze, where we had coffee and a snack at the very nice Hotel Diamant overlooking the Valbona River.
    After a quick stop in Bajram Curri for some groceries we made our way up the side of a mountain to Chestnut Hill guesthouse.
    We were greeted by Geri who was a great host for our two night stay there.
    The next day we went for a drive up the very picturesque Valbona Valley.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    The drive up, very narrow roads and some extremely erratic drivers
    1There PassView down to Theth valley2View from our bedroom window at the Alpet hotel2On the way to Grunas WaterfallThe water colour!Rustic scenes on the way to the waterfallGrunas (aka Thethi's) Waterfall. Quite a steep rocky scramble for the last few 100s of mts6Dinner at AlpetAlpet dining roomThe start of the hike to Theth Blue EyeArriving at a beautiful area close to the Blue EyeThe Blue Eye15Cafe on the track near Blue Eye

    Theth

    Jun 18–19 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We caught the bus out to the airport to pick up our hire car. We are going on an eleven day road trip.
    Our first stop is Theth, a picturesque spot in the Accursed Mountains (Albanian Alps). If you say Theth too many times in a conversation you thtart to lithp.
    Theth ith only 155km from the airport but takes at least 3.5 hours. The last 50km is a very narrow winding mountain road. The mountain scenery is amazing.
    After checking in to our hotel we walked to the Grunas Waterfall.
    Dinner outside (grilled chicken, whole trout) was very nice with a beautiful view of the mountains.
    The next morning we did the hike out to the Blue Eye before driving to Koman with a small detour to see the Mesi Bridge, an Ottoman-era stone bridge.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    Our first stop in Albania, in Korce, our driver's home town.
    2Korce has a very nice central area with a pedestrian mall.The view from our apartment in Tirana.Skanderbeg SquareBunk'Art 2Skanderbeg SquarePart of the view from our windowPublic World Cup fan area next to Skanderbeg SquareWe joined the nightly protest.

    Into Albania

    Jun 16–18 in Albania ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We travelled by private car from Meteora, Greece to Tirana, Albania, today. This saved us the time & hassle of backtracking all the way back to Athens (by bus) & flying from there to Tirana. We stopped in Korce for coffee & a wander - it used to be called "Little Paris" & it's a lovely city with heaps of trees & wide avenues.
    Without the step by step photos from our host we would have had no hope of finding our apartment. Chatting with an Aussie couple in the supermarket we discovered that this is normal in Albania.
    After settling into our apartment (and delightedly using the washing machine) We headed out to explore Tirana. We checked out Skanderbeg Square, Bunk'Art 2 Museum, the House of Leaves & the Cathedral before ending the day with dinner, at Panevino. Tirana has a number of gf options within easy walk of us, an improvement on Turkey & Greece. But you have to be careful, even at the good restaurants. Panevino served my gf dessert on a bed of glutenous crumble. Luckily I asked the question.
    Our nightly stroll in Tirana was very eventful. We found ourselves engulfed firstly by the World Cup soccer fans and then by the huge nightly protests occurring in Tirana at present. Our fingers are crossed for the people here, who have already suffered so much.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    Caryatid Porch of the Erechtheion, temple dedicated to Athena & PoseidonThe ParthenonCappuccino Frigo2Tracey and Maria CallasLots of gum trees in Athens, and even some kurrajong trees.Athens from Lycabettus Hill, the highest point in the cityThe changing of the guard.Very excellent Silly Walking.2Tracey getting our lunch at Kostas.

    A few days in Athens

    Jun 11–13 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Our first full day in Athens required an early start to join the ticket queue for the 8am entry to the Ancient Acropolis site. An easy walk from our hotel and it all went well. Pat joined the queue pretending to have tickets while Tracey waited for the ticket office to open then joined Pat with the tickets. After the Acropolis site we visited the Ancient Agora site, followed by very nice burgers (one gf) at Hard Rock Cafe.
    A bit more relaxed the second morning, but a long walk through an up-market part of Athens to Lycabettus Hill, then down to watch the changing of the guard at the parliament building, followed by lunch in the shade at the National Gardens.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    Temple of Apollo, Port of Naxos

    Farewell Naxos. Hello Athens

    June 10 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Today was mostly spent travelling. Return hire car (& pay parking fine- bit of a joke), catch fast ferry at 10, Port of Piraeus at 2. Train into Athens, hotel at 3.30. Evening stroll for gf dinner and quiet evening.Read more

  • Europe 2026
    Blue Star Ferries keep the Mediterranean connected
    Plaka BeachTwo old AussiesWe sampled the fish, lamb, potatoes & salad with goats cheese at a nearby taverna tonight.Cute pair!1Closed on Tuesdays so we did the only thing possible and sneaked a peak..Temple of Demeter (on Tuesdays)Making olive oilBeautiful ChalkiChalkiCalamari, meatballs & home made wine and "liqueur", aka rocket fuelKurosawa statue near Appollonas

    Naxos Greece

    Jun 7–10 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Cruising along beside The shores of Naxos, it was immediately apparent how different it was from Santorini. The island is huge in comparison and flat enough to accommodate development along much of its coast.
    Our first full day on Naxos included some time on the beach and a nice dinner at Petrino restaurant.
    The second day we hired a car and did a road trip across the island and around the north end. The first stop was to the Ancient Temple of Demeter, which is closed on Tuesdays so we just got a peek at it through the fence. We're pretty relaxed about ancient stone things. It's hard to beat Ephesus.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    8Sunset from our dinner table at Nektar
    The bus route up from the port.Santorini selfie.Tracey with the purple umbrella.Our quiet hotel oasis.2Our dinner table at Nektar.Sunset from the best view in town - Nektar. Highly recommend.222So many shops, restaurants, hotels!Three cruise ships in the bay.When we got back to our room there was a swan on our bed.

    Santorini

    Jun 5–7 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After checking into the Anamnesis Spa Hotel, we wandered through the myriad lanes and alleyways of Santorini. This place is really busy. Fortunately, our hotel, only 5 mins from the central square, provides a quiet oasis.
    The highlight of our visit here was undoubtedly dinner at Nektar, at the recommendation of our hotel receptionist. Superb food and view, including a visit from the chef to modify a dish for gluten free. Sadly, no gf dessert.
    Day 2, we walked from Fira through a couple of "villages" to Imerovigli, then caught the packed bus to Oia. With three cruise ships visiting this day, the whole of Santorini was packed.
    Day 3, A relaxed morning, a last stroll around Fira, another fresh Greek salad and it was time to bus and ferry to Naxos .Santorini is an incredible place. A whole economy built on a small precipitous rocky island and totally based on tourism.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    On Pat's evening walk.
    "If I could turn back time..."Filling in time before heading to the ferry.HeraklionHeraklion

    Rhodes last day and ferry.

    Jun 4–5 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    There was no one coming into our room so our host Gioni very kindly allowed us to check out at 4pm. We walked into town via the waterfront and went to Gluten Free Rhodes again, where the coffee is very good.
    We did a bit of sitting and people watching to fill in the time before catching the free bus to the port.
    6:30pm ferry for a 12pm arrival at Santorini. Quite a nice spacious cabin with a window.
    Through the night the ferry stopped at Karpathos, Kasos, Sitia (Crete) and Heraklion (Crete), with each stop requiring loud announcements on the PA.    Read more

  • Europe 2026
    Into a sea cavePebble beaches - painfulFresh and delicious

    Sea Kayaking Rhodes

    June 3 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    After an early pickup from one of the ancient gates of Rhodes (the old town is pedestrian only, theoretically), we headed to the sea on the east coast. After a 4.75km paddle, we stopped to swim, snorkel & lunch at Traganou beach. We kayaked past Anthony Quinn - otherwise known as Zorba the Greek- beach & Falariki beaches to arrive there. Beautiful clear water but only a few shoals of little fish, 9.5 km in the kayak, swimming and some walking made for quite a big day.Read more

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    Kastellorizo

    June 1 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    This morning after breakfast we walked down to the port and caught the ferry to Kastellorizo, only a ten minute trip. We are now in Greece and the EU. A short wait and a nice coffee in this very pretty little town, then on to the whopping great ferry for the 3.5 hour trip to Rhodes. So far we like the Greek islands!Read more

  • Europe 2026
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    Ephesus (Efes)

    May 29 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C