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Paris to Milan by bike

May - July 2017
  • Pat Esler
A 59-day adventure by Pat Read more
  • Pat Esler

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  • Pat EslerPat EslerParis to Milan by bike
    The amazing canal bridge at Briare.
    Gien looks very nice from a distance.But the roads are busy and the truck drivers are impatient.Picnic lunch after Gien with patient bandaged up.Canal just in front of our hotel.

    Sully sur Loire to Briare

    June 20, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    35 degrees forecast so a short day was planned. We got a good early start from the campsite. The bike route took us away from the Loire to Saint Florent. There was a bit of climbing but not too steep and generally through shady forests. After a nice descent back to the river we followed the south bank for a while. We decided to cross to Gien to have a look around and get some coffee and food.

    The roads in Gien were busy, and the combination of an impatient French truck driver and a bad decision by Tracey resulted in a minor gravity-related incident. This required a sit in the shade while Pat went to the Pharmacie for some large bandages and some spray-on antiseptic. Nothing damaged but skin and confidence.

    Our impression is that while French drivers are pretty good with cyclists, and certainly better than Australian drivers, they (especially the truck and van drivers) are perhaps not as good as other European countries we have toured in.

    After the fall and some first aid and shopping we had a pretty slow trip, and rode over the canal bridge (that's a canal on a bridge that crosses a river!) mid afternoon to our hotel in Briare. It was very hot and there was no aircon in the hotel. After a few drinks next to the canal, since it was too hot in the hotel dining room so we went for a walk and ended up having some nice cheap food in a kebab shop. At least that had a fan!    Read more

  • Pat EslerPat EslerParis to Milan by bike
    1The church at Chatillon.
    As close as we got to Sancerre.

    Briare to Puilly

    June 21, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Another very hot day forecast so we got an early start. We got chatting to a German couple out the front of the hotel. They were two months into a three month cycle tour from their home in northern Germany, and had done about 4,800km. They were heading the same way as us, but after yesterday's incident we were traveling pretty slowly so they quickly left us behind.

    We did a small detour and climb to have a look at Chatillon, then continued on the route which today was generally very good. Quite a few shady sections through forest, and no clouds of sticky insects. Near Belleville we rode past our third nuclear power station. At the boulangerie/patisserie (below par) we ran into a group doing a barge and bike tour. There were five Aussies in the group. They were suffering in the heatwave on the barge at night.

    Due to the extreme heat and our fairly slow rate of progress, we decided not to climb up to Sancerre. After a very pleasant stop for a drink at a riverside restaurant at Saint Thibault we rode on to cross the river at Puilly, arriving at our very nice airconditioned(!!) hotel at about 1:30.

    Tomorrow we head for Nevers, a rest day with two nights in an airconditioned hotel (not easy to find).

    67km today, good effort in the heat for the injured one (who is currently asleep). About 630km so far.    Read more

  • Pat EslerPat EslerParis to Milan by bike
    Marseilles les Aubigny
    Crossing another canal bridge near NeversBeautiful shady path into NeversLoire river swimming spot across the road from our hotel.Good gargoyles on the cathedral.

    Puilly sur Loire to Nevers

    June 22, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    When we came through Puilly on the way to our hotel yesterday we couldn't buy milk for brekky because the shops closed for their midday break till 3pm. Another very hot day forecast so this morning we got an early start, bought some milk a few km along the road, and had our muesli and coffee at a picnic spot near La Charitè sur Loire. After a few minor navigational hiccups we crossed the river to rejoin the official cycle route. The route from there to Nevers was very good, with lots of wide smooth shady sections beside canals.
    We have now completed the official Loire à Velo route from the mouth of the river at Saint Nazaire to Nevers. We might have to celebrate with some bubbly on our rest day.
    The forecast looks more normal for the next week or so, with maximums in the mid to low 20s where we are headed, which is further south along the Loire.

    57km today, 687km total.    Read more

  • Pat EslerPat EslerParis to Milan by bike
    Ducal Palace
    Pat's 'Coiffure'Street in NeversPalais de Justice

    Nevers (Out of order)

    June 23, 2017 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    A big day in Nevers - sightseeing, bike shop for repairs to Tracey's bottom bracket, haircut for Pat & laundromat. Nevers has got everything you need without being too big, as well as having the requisite gothic cathedral, ducal palace and a beach on the Loire right behind our accommodation.Read more

  • Pat EslerPat EslerParis to Milan by bike
    "Albert"
    Canal Lateral À La LoireGannay-Sur-Loire

    Nevers to Gannay-Sur-Loire

    June 24, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The heatwave has passed. Forecast 26 degrees maximum. Just a few hundred meters from our hotel back to the canal path and on our way. Beautiful riding, with the first 46km on sealed canal tow paths and the rest on quiet country roads. After about 35km we stopped in Decise for a coffee and picked up a chocolate eclair and tarte framboise (raspberry - very yummy) to share for morning tea and a ham and cheese "sandwich" (half a baguette) for lunch.
    We rolled into the little campground feeling pretty good at around 1:30. Lovely shady spot, nice cheap local beer "Blonde de Gannay". The place is run by a Dutch couple, and all the other campers seem to be Dutch, as is the lady who runs the local epicerie (convenience store).
    We are booked in for dinner.
    Later... At dinner we all sat together, us, Isabel and Annette a German couple, French David and his son William, and our Dutch hosts Peter and Trudy. We actually briefly formed an international music group but we felt the world wasn't quite ready for us yet.
    72km today, total about 760km.    Read more

  • Pat EslerPat EslerParis to Milan by bike
    1Basilique du Sacré Coeur in the evening light
    Along the Canal du CentreArriving in Paray le MonialCrossing another canal bridgeA window through a windowHotel de Ville

    Gannay sur Loire to Paray la Monial

    June 25, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After 30km of rolling roads - the first real hills we've faced - we hit the tow path again and it was smooth sailing.
    At Bourbon-Lancy, we happened upon the local fresh marché and had the bright idea to buy some freshly cooked ham to put in our baguette for lunch. So we asked for 4 slices - well he saw us coming - they were the thickest slices I've ever seen and we walked away with 645gm of very nice ham. Hard to believe that we actually managed to squash most of it into one baguette.
    It was great to roll into Paray la Monial. We checked out the park for a small 2nd lunch (guess what of) and then enjoyed the town markets. A South American busker was playing the pan pipes, which we love, so we settled in with a panache to listen, before booking into our accommodation, which is right in the centre of this lovely, lively town.
    Many thanks to Knud and Erica for suggesting this top spot and the ride along the Canal De Centre.
    71km today, total 831km.    Read more

  • Pat EslerPat EslerParis to Milan by bike
    1Paray Le Monial Streetscape
    St Nicholas TourBasilique Du Sacré Cœur

    Paray le Monial 1

    June 26, 2017 in France ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Paray-Le-Monial is a pilgrimage town. As well as having the 11th-12th century Romanesque Basilica of the Sacred Heart and numerous other religious treasures, it is the home of the"visitation nun Margaret Mary " and a notable pilgrimage destination. We met some Irish travelers at breakfast this morning, who come every year for the festival of the Sacred Heart. The town is beautifully maintained and decorated with flower boxes. Parks, cloister gardens, outdoor churches designed with plane trees in the shape of a cross, etc make it a very pleasant spot for the religious and heathens alike. Unfortunately, the well regarded Hieron museum was closed today.
    We are staying at Inter-Hotel Hostellerie Des Trois Pigeons which is located perfectly, very nice, spacious and good value at AU$105 per night.    Read more

  • Pat EslerPat EslerParis to Milan by bike
    2About half way along the brand new rail trail.
    Arriving in St Maurice.St JeanSt Jean church yard2The view from our room in St Maurice

    Paray le Monial to St Maurice

    June 27, 2017 in France ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We navigated on quiet country roads the first 10km to St Yan. From there a brand new rail trail runs for 25km of the way towards Roanne - it was shady and relaxing. The last 25km, Pat had us on very quiet country roads. We arrived in Roanne by about 12.30, expecting to use our early check-in offer, but the accommodation renigged, so we waited for standard check-in at 2pm, only to find they could offer no refrigeration for my medicine (1st time for everything, I guess). A bit disgusted by this time and having had a look at the pretty ordinary city, we decided to push on.
    The positive was we pushed on to Saint Jean and Saint Maurice Sur Loire. What a heavenly spot! Perched atop a little mountain, these two mediaeval villages are authentic and the views are divine. Overlooking Lac de Villarest and surrounded by hills, these villages are reminiscent of Tuscan hilltop towns or Motovun,in Istria. The churches are the romanesque style, dating back to 11th & 12th century and lots of the buildings look like they have stood for many centuries- solid rock. Bell-ringing is a particular feature of the churches in this area! Our room, at L'Echauguette, is beautiful, decorated with antiques,spacious and a welcome haven from the storm that is raging outside. We just made it back to St Maurice, from our Saint Jean pizzeria, ahead of a big storm front - thunder and lightning are rattling the windows as I write.
    Today 79km, 470m climbing. Total 910km    Read more

  • Pat EslerPat EslerParis to Milan by bike
    2Chateau de la Roche
    1The street in front of our b&bPat, being city hallSt Etienne

    St Maurice to St Etienne

    June 28, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Breakfast at the bed & breakfast was in our host's dining room overlooking the lake. The ride this morning was hilly but very nice. A cool day, with max forecast 19 degrees, mostly quiet roads through forest and small villages and straight past the amazing Chateau de La Roche. After about 40km and 520m of climbing we stopped in Balbigny for coffee and lunch. The weather was looking very threatening (it was actually raining, but Pat couldn't see it on his radar) so we decided to catch the train to Saint Etienne and ride to Lyon tomorrow.Read more

  • Pat EslerPat EslerParis to Milan by bike
    Hugo and Blaise drove is back to our bikes at the scene of the crime.
    Confluence architectureConfluence architectureConfluence architectureConfluence architectureConfluence shopping mall & vaporetto stop

    Saint Etienne to Lyon

    June 29, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Riding through built up area for most of the first 25km. Stopped for coffee at Rive de Gien. Bikes were leaning against cafe window but slightly out of direct line of sight. When we finished our coffee Pat's front panniers were gone. Cctv also and busy area with customers. Spent rest of morning with police -very nice policeman, Hugo, will be at the top of Mont Du Chat in Superman suit. We must try and spot him.
    With rain looming and the joy gone from the day, we trained to Lyon.
    Nice apartment in the Confluence district and fairly close to big shopping centre for supplies. This district had been turned from an industrial wasteland to an architecturally interesting and environmentally sustainable area, a great endeavour.    Read more

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