Paris to Milan by bike

A 59-day adventure by Pat Read more

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Trip start
May 29, 2017
Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Packed and ready.
May 30, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 7 °C
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Melbourne Airport
May 31, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
We drove down from Albury yesterday. After meeting Tim at a cafe near Melbourne Uni we picked Lily up from school and walked her home. Even though it was a cold breezy day we really enjoyed the walk through the park with Lily.
Last night we had dinner with the boys plus Mary, Lily and Jessica and stayed the night at Ben and Leah's place.
Mary and Matthew had very kindly invited us to a 4D ultrasound which we attended on the way to the airport this morning.Read more
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Bangkok
June 1, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C
Just a night in Suvarnabhumi Ville Hotel near the airport. The flight was full but pretty good. We couldn't check the bike boxes through to Paris but they were waiting for us at Oversized Luggage when we got through passport control and the Left Luggage wasn't far away and on the same level. The taxi to the hotel cost 110 baht or $4.40. Pat went for a walk in the morning to get the sights, sounds and smells of the pretty ordinary area around the hotel while Tracey stayed in transit mode. Pretty warm and humid.
We paid extra 500bt ($20) for a 6pm checkout and we both had a swim in the afternoon which was nice.Read more
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
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Paris arrival.
June 2, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
Landed at CDG at 7:30am. The 12 hour flight was full but ok. It took about an hour to get through passport control, with a very badly organised queing arrangement.
We unboxed and assembled the bikes (such a simple description) before catching the shuttle train to terminal 3 to catch the RER train to Saint Michel-Notre Dame station near (1km) our hotel. We are at Hotel Saint Jaques for a week.
After lunch at a nearby brasserie we visited the Pantheon. It is literally just up the street from our hotel. Did a bit of walking and Tracey ended up with a bad knee. Hope it is ok in the morning.
Got talking to a local couple (Philippe and Amita) about life, politics, religion, and revolution at dinner (restaurant across the road from our hotel), invited to dinner at their place tomorrow night.Read more
Pat Esler Inside the Pantheon.
6/3/17Reply
Pat Esler On the airport shuttle.
6/3/17Reply
Pat Esler St Jacques Hotel
6/5/17Reply
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
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Grand Arch
June 3, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Bit jetlagged but wandered out to the Grand Arch, La Defense, and took in the view as well as a touch of shopping at Le Quatre Temps (they have a Desigual, Jo).
Caught up on some sleep and then headed to Philippe and Amita's place a few metro stops away. A great night was had by all. Amita had cooked up a storm- chicken curry, cucumber raita, warm potato salad and fragrant rice. The conversation leapt from politics to literature to families and the first time I looked at my watch it was 11:50. Must stay in touch.Read more
Pat Esler From the steps of the Grand Arch. Arc de Triomphe in the distance.
6/5/17Reply
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Musee d'Orsay
June 4, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
We had a slow start today after a very late night having dinner at Philippe and Amita's place. We found a really good boulangerie/patisserie close to our hotel. Delicious salmon quiche, nice fresh salad.
After lunch we caught the metro to the Musee d'Orsay. Being the first Sunday of the month there was free entry and a very long queue (about 50 minutes).
In the evening Pat, after having a bit of a cough, came down with a high temperature and crashed into bed very early.Read more
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
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Jardin du Luxumbourg, Velib bikes
June 5, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Pat woke up feeling largely recovered so in the morning we walked to the nearby Jardin du Luxembourg. Being Wit Monday which is a holiday for some people, the park was full of Parisians and visitors enjoying a beautiful sunny morning in a beautiful place.
We decided to head to the Pompidou Centre by using the very good public bike system, Velib. Once you register (€1.70 for a day) you can use the bikes for free for 30 minutes at a time. There are Velib stations every few hundred metres throughout the city.Read more
Rod Horan Pat must be enjoying the Velibs after that bike of his.
6/6/17Reply
Pat Esler Haha!
6/9/17Reply
Jillian PattinsonVelib sounds great.
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Le Centre Pompidou
June 5, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Rod Horan Nice pic
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Rod HoranNice pic
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Matthew Esler Good to see visual confirmation of life.
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Pat Esler 👍
6/9/17Reply
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
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Jardin des Tuileries by bike
June 6, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
It was a cold windy morning with some showers around, but we were awake early so we decided to head for the Tuileries by Velib bike. After brekky in our room we found very good coffee at the nearby Strada Cafe. The Dutch barista on duty had worked in Melbourne.
We rode to the Tuileries then walked along the Champs-Elysees to the Arc de Triomphe, stopping to warm up with hot chocolate.
We took the Metro back to our hotel and had a very nice and cheap Portugese chicken lunch at Nossa just around the corner.
Chaos this afternoon as police sirens sound and roads closed all around us. There was a terrorist incident at Notre Dame Cathedral which is 450m from our hotel. Apparently a nut attacked a policeman with a hammer and was shot. The hundreds of people in the cathedral, who had queued for hundreds of metres to get in, were stuck in there for several hours. The length of the queue was enough to keep us away.
After dinner we went for a stroll. Nice evening light.Read more
Rod HoranHope it has not disrupted you too much. It was on the news here as well.
6/6/17Reply
Arabian NightsThat was a good miss for you guys!
6/8/17Reply
Matthew EslerBloody hell... it seems to be a crazy time for terrorism right now. Stay safe.
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Tour Eiffel and Musee Rodin
June 7, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Arabian NightsNice pics!
6/14/17Reply
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Paris bike tour, L'Initial dinner
June 8, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
L'Initial is a French Japanese fusion restaurant in the Latin Quarter, about 300 mts from our hotel. I'd read about it on TripAdvisor. We had the 7 course degustation menu (sorry boys your inheritance has taken a bit of a hit). It was a beautiful, intricate meal and included foie gras and pigeon (some courses were a set menu). It was a memorable way to finish our stay in Paris.Read more
Matthew EslerI think if one is in Paris, one really should not hold back on sampling the cuisine.
6/10/17Reply
Rod HoranThis trip is sounding a bit glamping like.
6/11/17Reply
Pat EslerNothing wrong with glamping
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Paris to Saint Nazaire
June 9, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Up early to ride to the Gare Montparnasse.The roads were wet in Paris as we rode to the station but we didn't get rained on.
Caught the TGV to St Nazaire. The TGV was impressive, as always, reaching speeds of over 270km per hour.Read more
Matthew EslerAlso bloody impressive that you have internet access else on the TGV!
6/10/17Reply
Rod HoranU should bring a TGV back with u.
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Pat EslerWish we could
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Saint Nazaire to Le Pellerin
June 9, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Fine, sunny and cool in St Nazaire, where we caught the bus to St Bevin Les Pins - the word is that the ride across the St Nazaire bridge is not worth the risk.
After fooling around in St Bevin, until 2.40, we finally hit the road and did 45 kilometres along a beautiful shady sealed path, with birds chirping and all the scenes and sights of summer in the country in Europe.
Dinner at the local Maroc restaurant was just what we needed - lamb and vegetable tagine, cous cous, Moroccan whisky (sweetened mint tea) and petit four. A spot of bird watching (what is a cabou?) and off to bed.Read more
Kaye TaylorMaybe cuckoo. Food sounds delicious.
6/10/17Reply
Arabian NightsWow! Sounds great. Glad to see you are blogging again!!
6/10/17Reply
Pat EslerOk. A cabou is a cabeau. - like a little crow
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Nantes Jardin des Plantes
June 10, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
The Jardin Des Plantes is a lovely oasis in the middle of Nantes. Green, shady, birds, water everywhere - good for the soul.
Arabian NightsJardin des Plantes apparently très bon!!! I have looked up weather for Nantes - fine, but it is not exactly hot there ATM!! Non?
6/10/17Reply
Pat EslerIl fait beau, Pam. Yesterday top temperature was 26° and sunny. Parfait! Jardin Des Plantes was lovely. Would have liked to stay longer than our 45 minute stroll.
6/11/17Reply
Rod HoranWhy such a short visit we put in a couple of nights there
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Oudon B&B
June 10, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
We crossed the Loire and rode into Oudon at about 4pm feeling like calling it a day. We could see there was a camp ground but decided to try the Office du Tourisme for other options. But first we spotted an "Artisan Boulanger Patissier". We bought some cakes, stashed them in a pannier for later (oh boy, best chocolate eclairs so far, and the other cake we got was amazing) and followed the signs to the OdT. Or actually Pat did. Tracey refused to ride up the hill past the castle. Pat actually enjoyed the climb, and the helpful lady in the OdT phoned a nearby B&B for us.Read more
Kevin EslerGoogle Earth has a lot of detail on Oudon. Looks like a very nice little village.
6/10/17Reply
Pat Esler This patisserier is incredible. Best chocolate éclairs yet and an unbelievable iced almond & rum 'biscuit'.
6/13/17Reply
Arabian Nights Will have to mark this one down for a visit if ever get the chance!!
6/14/17Reply
Pat Esler Definitely!
6/26/17Reply
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
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Coffee stop near pavé
June 11, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Pat Esler Bits of pavé
6/13/17Reply
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Morning Tea
June 11, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Ingrandes in the background. Beautiful spot. The French maintain the character of their towns and villages - no nasty advertising billboards or garishly painted houses.
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Savonnieres
June 11, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Started enquiring for accommodation here.
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Angers food stop
June 11, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Kevin EslerIf I remember rightly, the local drop in Angers is rose wine. Years ago I biked this and upcoming part of the Loire. Have fun.
6/11/17Reply
Pat EslerJust arrived at our hosts house. We stopped 8km away to pump a small boy's tyre up and his parents invited is to stay the night!
6/11/17Reply
Kaye TaylorThat's very generous.
6/14/17Reply
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Angers private home.
June 11, 2017 in France ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
The Loire à velo, leaving Oudon, is a lovely stretch of biking. Being Sunday, however, many of the boulangeries and patisseries were closed- quel horreur! We managed to find enough sustenance in our panniers to cobble together morning tea. We stopped opposite the gorgeous little town of Ingrandes.
Further along we came across an obviously popular restaurant /bar near Chalonnes. Pat went for the steak and chips and I had a chicken salad. Riding on, we attempted to find accommodation in a number of towns without success. By 4pm and 70km we were starting to wonder. For some reason, the place was very busy. At this point in time, a lady stopped Pat, to enquire in French if he had a bike pump. Luckily he grasped her meaning and stopped to pump up her son's tyre. While this was happening, I was chatting with their friends and enquired whether they knew of any available accommodation. They did and rang their friend who runs a B& B. On being told that it was also full, they most generously offered to host us themselves. How lucky were we and how delightful that we ran into such generous and open-hearted people.
Hedi, Olivia & Eliam were not getting home until 7pm, so Pat & I enjoyed a Loire-side dinner at a pop-up restaurant and bar. There were hordes of Anjouvins enjoying the same thing.
After our fortunate rendez-vous with Hedi, Olivia and Eliam on the bike track this afternoon, we arrived at their lovely home in Angers. Luckily for us, it was right in the middle of town. We all enjoyed a drink and swapped some life history and viewpoints on the terrace.
Hedi graciously escorted us on a night tour of Angers, pointing out all the monuments- the castle, cathedral, the oldest buildings, noting their construction from tree roots, the city viewpoints. It was lovely to have the local knowledge and we look forward to hosting them at home in Albury, whenever they can make it. The kangaroos are waiting Eliam.Read more
Kevin EslerWow lovely French hospitality.
6/11/17Reply
Pat EslerYes, the French have been extraordinarily generous with their hospitality. find. They are lovely people we
6/13/17Reply
Pat Esler Entering Angers
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Coffee stop
June 12, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Looking for coffee at Saint Mathurin but being Monday morning everything was closed. We crossed the river to a restaurant on the opposite bank and had a coffee, which was all they could sell us. A few km later we found a boulangerie in Saint Remy where the lady made us a delicious ham and cheese baguette.Read more
Rod HoranAhh the whole point of the trip. Although French coffee is of inconsistent quality.
6/12/17Reply
Pat EslerYes you wouldn't come to France for the coffee. Very easy to find good food though.
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
Rest stop
June 12, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Rod HoranLooks like u fell off.
6/13/17Reply
Pat EslerJust doing a spot of bird watching and enjoying a relaxed pace.
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
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Saumur AirBnB
June 12, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
For two nights to rest etc.
Debbie Llewelynsounds like you are having a great time! Cakes look great!! Missing our cuppa days!
6/13/17Reply
Pat EslerSeriously, the patisseries and bolangeries in France are so good it's unbelievable. I'm missing our cuppas too. Home in 6 weeks,
6/13/17Reply
Arabian NightsEnjoying the blog. Two nights will be nice.
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
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Saumur to Camping Mignardiere
June 14, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
The morning's ride from Saumur covered everything from smooth as glass bitumen to rough dirt & gravel with some short but steep - think 25%- climbs through charming stone villages and onto bridge crossings. After the Loire À Velo sign turned us abruptly right into what can only be described as a wall, we resolved to be choosy about which signs to obey. We continuously pass turreted small villas and castles.
First coffee today was in Avoine- a very busy little hub.
After a long stretch of beautifully sealed, but sunny, road on a levee we grabbed a baguette & éclair at Brehemont. The rest of the way to Villandry included sweeping views of the Loire and 600 or 700 metres of pavé that wasn't so lovely.
The gardens at Villandry are worth a look - restored to their original 16th century format, they are remarkably beautiful. A great spot for a siesta.
A further 14km and we pulled into Camping Mignardiere at Balin Miré. Currently enjoying the pool!Read more
Rod HoranI think u went a different way to me. Don't remember any gravel and there was a hilly patch but not 25%. Maybe I just did not notice it. The villa is worth a look. Looks like u got better weather that day, it started to rain while we were walking in the gardens. Stay safe.
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Matthew Esler Wow!
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Matthew Esler Just coming out of Moria?
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Paris to Milan by bike Pat Esler
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Mignardiere to Mosnes
June 15, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
The route this morning was a variety of surfaces, leading into Tours . As soon as we hit Tours, a friendly local on a bike recognized our Australian accents and offered to lead us into the "vieux Ville". We ended up in a delightful old square for morning coffee. A cruise around central Tours followed. The Cathedral is pretty good!!! Great stained glass and flying buttresses and an ancient cedar of Lebanon just nearby.
Lunch in the panniers (Montlouis Sur Loire is a lovely little town with a fresh market in the main square) we headed off and found a shady Petanque ground (La Milletiere) to enjoy our jambon, emmanthal and salade baguette, chocolate eclair and almond raspberry cake - yum!
The route wound between fields of grapevines and wheat , the roadside edged with Flanders poppies and other wildflowers.
Arrived at our hotel (Domaine des Thomeaux) in Mosnes about 4pm. Nice dinner (we both had fish) at the hotel restaurant.
54km, 298m climbing.Read more
Arabian NightsGlad to see you are keeping up the cake eating!!
6/15/17Reply
Kevin Esler Nice shot. Couldn't look any Frencher could it?
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Matthew EslerThis is going to be the one cycling tour you do where you come back heavier 😄 Sounds delicious.
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