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  • Day 17

    Ffiordland

    June 3, 2016 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Van free day today, we are off to Doubtful Sound, supposedly different to Milford Sound. We had pre booked so all we had to do was stand outside our van park at 8.45 and let it all happen. Small bus picked us up pretty promptly and drove us down to Manapouri Lake, about 20 mins away. Day was pretty overcast so not too optimistic about fine weather.
    At Manapouri we checked in, picked up our pre-ordered picnic lunches and boarded the large boat to take us on the 1st leg of the journey. Went across the lake, the largest in the Sthn Hemisphere, it took 50 mins at 25 knots. The trip was booked thru Real Journey's who have the exclusive rights to Doubtful Sound, and have been doing so for over 50 yrs. Reached the West Arm of the lake which has a hydro power station, built in the 1960s, to supply power to a nearby aluminium smelter. We waited in the small info centre until Chris, our original mini bus driver arrives in a coach size bus to take 44 of us on the gravel road over Wilmot Pass to the boat at Doubtful Sound. The road was originally built to provide access to the power station so all supplies were brought in by barge from the ocean, trucked over the mountain to the power station. So the road has no traffic but is subject to trees, landslips, washouts, etc. The area receives about 8000mm rain per year and can get 300mm in 1 day.
    After 20 mins we arrive at the warf and get on our boat, the Navigator, which is normally used for overnite cruises but today is used for day tours, so a bit of extra luxury but no use of the sleeping cabins.
    Off we went on a 3 1/2 hour crise, down the sound, right into the ocean and then turned around & came back. The day was cool, overcast & some misty rain but it gave the whole atmosphere a special feel and some spectacular views.
    Cruising along and a pod of dolphins decided to have a frollick under & near the boat for a little while, the captain shut back the engines & drifted for a while till they passed. Wonderful sight.
    Then at the ocean (the roaring 40s) we stopped right alongside a group of small islands that the fur seals use for basking in the sun. No sun today but plenty of basking happening.
    On the return trip the captain pulls into a small cove and completely shuts all the engines off and asks everyone to stay still, dont talk & no photos. For about 10 mins all that we could hear was the birds, a distant waterfall and the rain drops falling on the water, what acoustics, what silence. One in our group found this a challenge ....
    Finally had to dock, take the bus back over the mountain, board the next boat & return to Manapouri then the mini bus back to Te Anau about 6pm.
    Early dinner tonight that Sue & Michelle had done last last night, a chat to a few new travellers and we were all done by 8pm.

    Weather was cool overcast, showers of misty light rain, all day.

    Highlights
    * the whole Doubtful Sound tour,
    * dolphins at work/play
    * fur seals, doing nothing but waving a fin or two,
    * 10 mins of silence on the sound (hardest work Sue has had to do for ages!)
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