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World trip - Anna & Bertram

October 2017 - April 2018
  • placeswetravelled
A 202-day adventure by placeswetravelled Read more
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  • placeswetravelledTravelerWorld trip - Anna & Bertram
    1

    Glacier hike/"rest day" at Perito Moreno

    January 2, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    After yesterday’s long hike, we were taking things a bit slower and went out for a small glacier hike at Perito Moreno.

    The glacier is really impressive as its 70m high front ends in a blue lagoon and moves by up to 2m forward per day, sending large ice blocks crashing in the water. We really enjoyed ourselves - even if 75% of our time was just sitting and watching the glacier :-) We even brought the rest of our wine bottle and a package of olives to snack, perfect :-)

    In the evening we continued by bus to the mountain village of El Chaltén where we will start the Huemul Circuit tomorrow with hopefully great views on the famous mountains of Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy, and later go climbing as well :-) and now, getting probably the last night‘s sleep before the trek...    Read more

  • placeswetravelledTravelerWorld trip - Anna & Bertram
    1

    El Chaltén + Day 1 of the Huemul Circuit

    January 3, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    After visiting the rangers’ station to inquire about current conditions on our intended Huemul Circuit we spent ~3 hours in town to rent harnesses and carabiners which are needed to cross two glacier rivers by zip line. Only in the 4th shop at at the very end of the village we were lucky! How many people are in the same trek? Or is everyone climbing? :-)

    Thus, we started a bit later than desired, around 2pm, registered with the rangers and off we went. The hike was a moderate 16km with some 500m ascent and descent into a valley. We had great views on the famous mountains of Fitz Roy and neighbors before descending into our “valley of the wind” (this could be a name for each and every valley as all of Patagonia is incredibly windy).

    We arrived at the camp site around 19:30 but with Patagonian summer time and light until 22:00 no problem :-) we found a good, wind-protected spot and set camp. Only in the night should we find out that the winds were still beating the tent and covered the front part of the tent in a fine layer of dust and sand...    Read more

  • placeswetravelledTravelerWorld trip - Anna & Bertram

    Day 2: Paso del viento with wind + snow

    January 4, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    We got up at 09:00 and took 2 hours to have breakfast and pack our backpacks. During the night it was quite stormy and rain fell now and then. It now seemed a bit better, but conditions were less than ideal. Nevertheless, we were headed for Day 2 over the Paso del Viento = Windy Pass.

    Expecting the spectacular and much discussed Tirolean Traverse (zip line), we found a much easier crossing over the river directly at the mouth of the glacier, on the way, however, just some 3rd grade climbing with our 14kg backpacks - piece of cake ;-)

    We made it up the pass in 3 hours, fighting with wind, snow, cold, but were rewarded with some good views over the glaciers and an easy hike down to a wonderfully windless camp site near a lagoon - in sunshine :-)

    The other 3 groups that had left 2 hours before us in the morning had also just arrived.

    Dinner was a luxurious 3 courses: vegetable soup, tortellini/polenta with tomato sauce, chocolate :-)    Read more

  • placeswetravelledTravelerWorld trip - Anna & Bertram

    Day 3: Paso Huemul and iceberg camping

    January 5, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We were prepared for a slightly easier day. Although the tour description said that days 2 and 3 were “hard”, we looked at the map and only had 19km and few meters of altitude gain. We got up around 9:00 and left around 11:00 again - last ones to leave the camp :-O

    The first part until the Huemul pass was indeed pleasant and we had great weather and, thus, great views over the ice fields and mountains beyond. Climbing the pass itself was not difficult but extremely windy (~ 60km/h) and we took only a few minutes for pictures until we descended on the other side.

    Reaching about halfway down the decent, we saw that there were icebergs “parking” in the bay near to which we were going to camp. As we came closer, we could hear the thundering crashing sounds, when two bumped into each other. Fascinating!

    We set camp at the second lagoon and even went for a quick bath in the ice cold water :-))))    Read more

  • placeswetravelledTravelerWorld trip - Anna & Bertram
    2

    Day 4: Return from Huemul - tough ending

    January 6, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We started relatively early in order to come back to El Chaltén in time to find a hostel for the night. The first part of the day was a moderate but long hike along the steppe - where we lost our path a couple of times and performed some detours. But that’s what we wanted instead of an overcrowded national park :-)

    It was considerably warmer today because of the lower altitude and being on the less windy side of the mountain. The problem we had was that we didn’t have access to a fresh water source at our latest camp site and drank/used for cooking all the 3 liters we had :-/ It took us 3.5 hours to get to a spring where we finally drank and refilled. From there, we could already see the big river which we needed to either cross on foot or use the zip line - depending on water levels.

    When we arrived, the water was moving fast but we thought it to be refreshing and okay to try it further down in the delta where the Rio Túnel river streams into the Lago Viedma. Said and done :-) although both of us had thigh-high water marks :-) Once crossed, we were suddenly called by a woman in utter panic who was running back and forth on the other side and then came running - partially falling and on all fours - through the water. An accident had happened at the zip line and a man was hanging still over the water, not moving. We quickly got going to help but, fortunately did not need to as he had apparently mobilized some last power to pull himself over...

    From here, we walked about 1 hour to the bay and 2 more hours to El Chaltén, which was not difficult but it made for a very long day with 25km in total. We dutifully returned our registration to the rangers’ office to let them know we made it home safely and went into town. The fourth hostel finally had a bed (for 1 night) and we we happy to get a shower and have fuel up at the supermarket with Alfajores (Argentinian cake filled with caramel) and Schweppes Pomelo; hmmmm :-)    Read more

  • placeswetravelledTravelerWorld trip - Anna & Bertram

    We're back from our hike :-)

    January 6, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We’re back from our four day hike around Mount Huemul in El Chalten. Posts and pictures have been written, but the internet around here is not really all that great. So while we wait for a better connection, here’s at least the final picture from our return :-)Read more

  • placeswetravelledTravelerWorld trip - Anna & Bertram

    Rainy and windy rest days in El Chaltén

    January 7, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    After moving out of our first hostel and into the second hostel, we had two quiet days reading and watching movies on the bed :-) an occasional nap was part of it, too 😴 at least, yoga in the mornings, sheltered from the wind by the hostel works :-)

    We are still hoping for better weather (and consultes the local weather oracle - see picture ;-)) to go out again, possibly even climbing and/or bouldering...    Read more

  • placeswetravelledTravelerWorld trip - Anna & Bertram

    Chaltén Miradores day hike + slacklining

    January 10, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    The last two days featured a day hike to all kinds of miradores (view points) which are easily accessible. We made it a sport to combine them in a round trip, something rather unusual in El Chaltén as it seems. Also, we found again that the rangers were not particularly helpful and said that the path we wanted to take did not exist - it turned out that we could very well use this one...

    The other day, we put the slackline to use :-) Bertram also has a new trick now :-)    Read more

  • placeswetravelledTravelerWorld trip - Anna & Bertram

    Last El Chaltén day -great mountain hike

    January 11, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    We used today’s last day in El Chaltén to summit the great mountain of Lola de los Pizarros which gives a great vantage point to Fitz Roy and Poincenot.

    It was a 4-hour ascent and 3 hours down, puh 😅 The top was a bit more technical with a lot of loose rock paired with easy climbing. The hardest part is, however, the forceful and unpredictable Wind which can easily push you over and toss you around. The views were perfect, though, and the weather was stable till we reached El Chaltén again. We highly enjoyed it!

    Also, it’s good to wear oneself out before sitting on the night bus to Perito Moreno for 12 hours. This will help to make us sleep :-)    Read more

  • placeswetravelledTravelerWorld trip - Anna & Bertram

    Cherry festival in Los Antiguos

    January 12, 2018 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Two positive surprises today:

    1. the night bus drove further than to where we booked but to where we ultimately wanted - Los Antiguos and we did not need to find another bus to continue the journey.

    2. The famous “Fiesta nacional de la cereza” starts today and the whole little town of Los Antiguos is up and running for 3 days of celebrating the cherry :-)

    We took advantage and bought fresh cherries 🍒 as well as various cherry (and non-cherry) dishes. Delicious :-) as all hostels and hotels with a sensible budget were fully booked, it’s camping again :-)

    The evening got cold quite quickly but we still strolled around town, ate a pizza from one of the booths and visited the Falkland Islands/Malvinas Islands memorial (Argentina still claims those islands as theirs and illegitimately occupied by Great Britain).

    Tomorrow, we will go on a day trip to visit some ancient cave drawings (10,000 BC)    Read more

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