Roncesvalles to Zubiri

After a jet lagged 3:30AM wake up, we decided to skip breakfast at the municipal (which wouldn't be served until 7am) and get on the Camino. We were the only ones on the Camino at a starless, pitch black 5am and we launched in to a thick forest. The looming trees felt like they were closing in around us and I kept trying to remember what I had read about this section of the Camino. I was reminded a ways in when we came upon a sign which revealed something which got our blood pumping. The forest we were in was, as the board read, a "place of witch craft" and, in the 16th century, 9 women were put to death by the Inquisition, oh, just about where we were standing. Sweet baby Jesus. While my hair stood on end, Tom's response, of course, was that he liked the mystical feeling it provoked. Regardless, we made really good time through that forest. I know I breathed a little sigh of relief when the sun started to peek out about 2 hours later.

We, erroneously, believed that we would be able to find a place serving breakfast at the next town over, Burguete, just 3.2 km on. Unfortunately, when we arrived the place felt like a ghost town, absolutely no sign of life, so we set off for the next town, Espinal, just another 3.6 km, and, again, nothing was open though at least this time the sun was coming up and I could snap a few photos of the pretty architecture.

We were overjoyed to find a bar open in the tiny Basque village of Gerendiain, with a population of 25. It was our last hope and turned out to be just what we needed. It was my first experience with the traditional Spanish potato, egg and onion tapas and, dear lord, it was maybe the best thing I've ever tasted. Pilgrims poured in the front door and we sat and chatted with a man from New Zealand who now lived in SF and had spent the night in the same Refugio as us the night before. Summer camp vibe! 😉✨Read more