South, Central and The Grand Dutchy

It’s 7am and I’m on a train heading to Brussels Midi (Central) as rain bounces off the window. The conductor checks my rail pass, spots my name and informs me his ‘first girlfriend was a Dempsey’. I have no idea what he expects me to do with that information while still half asleep at 7am on a dreary Wednesday morning and so I smile awkwardly and insist I’m definitely of no relation, all while praying it wasn’t a bad breakup otherwise I might be getting kicked off a train. Presumably they ended on good terms as he wishes me a good journey and moves on cheerfully.

I notice suddenly that my train seems to be going to Brussels Zuid (south), and Brussels Nord (north) but not to Brussels Midi. I panic, and start trying to come up with alternative routes so I don’t miss my connection in Brussels only to discover that Brussels Zuid doesn’t seem to exist on the app… I stop in my tracks and flag down the other-Dempsey’s-ex who then explains to me that Brussels Zuid and Brussels Midi are the same station, but ‘Zuid’ is the Dutch name and ‘Midi’ is the French. I thank him and wonder briefly which nation couldn’t read a map properly before it’s time to grab my luggage and hop across to the train to my next country.

Country no. 19- Luxembourg, or to give it its full title, the Grand Dutchy of Luxembourg, is the only territory in the world to be ruled by a Grand Duke. And the tiny little micro-state that just so happens to be home to the seat of the European Parliament's secretariat, the Court of Justice of the European Union, the European Court of Auditors, and the European Investment Bank… quite a lot for the worlds 7th smallest country and somewhere that’s usually over looked for it’s neighbours.

It’s capital, Luxembourg City is a UNESCO heritage site (Yep, the whole city) due to its preservation of the old quarters and fortifications. The country passed through almost every large empire in Europe, from the Holy Roman Empire, the Hapsburg empire, the House of Burgandy, even the French and the Prussians, so elements of these can be seen in many of the buildings, acting almost as a time capsule of Luxembourg’s history.

Despite all the grandeur on paper, I’ll admit that Luxembourg City doesn’t really blow me away. I’m not really sure what I was expecting but what I find is a city much like any other. The walk from the station to the old town takes me past Macdonald’s, Five Guys and Sephora, I cross the bridge and find myself in the old town which is pretty enough but not entirely spectacular. At this point I’m not sure if it’s just city fatigue starting to set in, especially having torn myself away from the rural paradise of Switzerland, or if it’s just that Luxembourg City is somewhat underwhelming especially given the grey, miserable weather that hangs over head.

The one thing that I am struck by is the poverty that seems wide reaching in a country known as the world’s second most affluent country, and I find myself reflecting on the disparity and inequality given that Luxembourg has the highest minimum wage in Europe and the highest GDP per capita in the world.

(On account of the torrential rain bouncing off my head the whole time I was there, I seem to have taken next to no photos… sorry!)Read more