Thirty Before Thirty

July - October 2023
A 90-day adventure by Rhiannon Read more
  • 63footprints
  • 31countries
  • 90days
  • 255photos
  • 5videos
  • 19.2kkilometers
  • 13.3kkilometers
  • 3.1kkilometers
  • 342kilometers
  • 133sea miles
  • 43sea miles
  • 79kilometers
  • 12kilometers
  • The Pablo Escobar of Sugar Highs

    July 9, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    T-shirts, underwear, and medical letters in multiple languages. Sunglasses, camera, and an entire box of glucose sachets. Admittedly, my packing lists look a little different to most. I've spent a lifetime making sure I could effectively manage a medical condition while on the move. For me it's all I know, and it's easy to forget sometimes that my condition impacts on me at all. At least until I'm trying to work out how to jam 35 packets of white powder into my luggage...

    I was born with a rare metabolic condition called MCADD. A potentially fatal condition that prevents your body from being able to fast. It means that if I'm sick or unable to eat for any reason, things can go wrong quickly. In times of crisis, packets of white glucose powder keep me alive.

    At the time I was diagnosed, the stats were grim. 1 in 60,000 kids were born with MCADD and the majority of them wouldn't make it past the age of 2 or 3 without being 'compromised'. Born into a family who had already lost a child to the condition, what the future held was anyone's guess.*

    As a kid, hospital admissions were frequent, I was the stuff of nightmares for school absence policies, and far more au fait with cannulas, tourniquets, and glucose drips than your average five year old. Unfortunately, I was also born with a horrendous case of itchy feet, which hasn't always made for the most compatible combination. As I've gotten older, I've found ways to make travel a huge part of my life and I suppose in many ways it's been my way of breaking boundaries, and ensuring that my condition doesn't hold me back. In the words of Anaïs Nin, 'Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one's courage' and I was determined not to let my little world shrink to any smaller than it had to be, dictated by an illness I had had no say in. And so I learnt to plan for and mitigate risks, to think on my feet, and to be prepared for just about anything. While it might take some of the spontaneity out of adventure, it's made me a dab hand in a crisis, given me some hilarious stories, and made me a great expedition planner to the point that I chose it as a career pre-covid. In many ways it's what propelled me towards a love of adventure in the first place. Growing up with a serious medical condition made me more independent, more determined. It taught me that with careful planning, some forethought and a little adjustment, just about anything is possible.

    But travel is also the place my condition is most visible. I wear a necklace that alerts paramedics should I take ill, I carry medical and customs letters in foreign languages, I once travelled around Mozambique with a value pack of Rice Crispies in my case just to ensure I wouldn't get stuck without food, and it's the reason I find myself crossing my fingers in the hopes that no one takes exception to the largest sugar fix they've ever seen, as my bags full of glucose powder go through security. Planning and packing for Thirty Before Thirty is a reminder that I'm incredibly lucky to get off as unscathed as I do with the condition I have, but also of how hard I've fought to get to the point that I could manage my condition while solo and a million miles away from home. Packing light on the other hand, is a challenge I've still not quite mastered...

    *Thanks to advances in medicine and increased screening, the outlook for kids born with MCADD now are significantly better. Recent estimates put the incidence rate at 1 in 10,000-20,000 kids in the UK being born with the condition, and with good management the majority of MCADD kids will go on to live full and healthy lives
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  • Day 2

    Hagia Sofia

    July 12, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    The Hagia Sophia (meaning the Holy Wisdom) was originally built as a cathedral under the Byzantines. When the Ottoman Empire took rule over Istanbul, it was converted to a mosque. Although briefly given museum status, it is once again a functioning mosque today. It’s rare in the sense that it mixes traditional Christian imagery with Islamic imagery. Verses from the Quran and names of Islamic caliphs sit beside depictions of Christ and the Virgin Mary. In Islam, images of people are forbidden and so the Christian depictions have been artfully covered to shield them from worshippers while allowing tourists to see them from an alternate angle.

    Behind those praying, children play and cats roam freely- a reminder that mosques are more than just places of worship, they’re hearts of the community too.

    I’ve been lucky enough to be invited to join Muslim prayers before but watching them take place under the roof of so much history and in the footsteps of so many worshippers, both Christian and Muslim, was something really special.
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  • Day 2

    Coffee and Cafedomancy

    July 12, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Spent the afternoon learning about the art of making Turkish coffee. Our instructor Fathi then read our fortunes from the left over coffee grinds - he reckons it’s all waiting for me in Amsterdam. I guess we’ll find out in a few countries or so 😂Read more

  • Day 4

    The Istanbul- Sofia Sleeper

    July 14, 2023 in Bulgaria ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Took the sleeper train from Istanbul to Sofia. It’s surprisingly clean and comfortable although not much sleep to be found as we’re jolted awake at 3am with a sharp knock on the door and shouts of border control. We decant off the train and wait to get passports stamped by Turkish border control before getting back on the train. They check everyone has a stamp and then we roll on to the Bulgarian side, this time customs and passport control come through the train, taking our passports away to stamp before bringing them back. By 5am we’re on the move again.Read more

  • Day 4

    Hello Sofia

    July 14, 2023 in Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Country number 2/30

  • Day 5

    From Serdica to Sofia

    July 15, 2023 in Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Sofia’s a city with a rich history. Named after the Greek word for wisdom, it feels a little like if you sprinkled some soviet architecture into Sauchiehall Street. Laid back, with relatively empty streets, there’s none of the tourist buzz you usually find in capital cities.

    Almost everyone’s had a stint in Sofia- the Ottomans, Byzantines, Greeks, Romans, Soviets and even the Vikings and Celts, and it shows in the buildings. The city is littered with open air exhibits, older than I can fathom. Under the foot of the former communist party HQ, lies the ruins of Serdica, the Roman name for Sofia.

    My guide for the morning takes great care to point out that Bulgaria is a country of revolutionaries and warriors, then produces a photo of a shirtless Gerard Butler as he tells us Spartans originate from Thrace in Bulgaria, not Greece.

    He whisks us through ancient times, the soviet era and eventually comes round to the topic of the EU, NATO and Ukraine. ‘If you want to remain without an army, you join NATO. If you want to remain without an economy, you join the EU’ he jokes. As for the war in Ukraine, it’s a difficult one for Bulgarians. ‘In our history we always say maybe with the Germans, never against the Russians. Both Russian and Ukrainian troops fought to liberate Bulgaria and so to Bulgarians it feels like a family conflict, we do not want to pick sides’
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  • Day 5

    Bulgaria by Dance

    July 15, 2023 in Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    This afternoon I took a dance class in Sofia. Our teacher, Desi, very patiently talks us through traditional Bulgarian dances. Usually performed in an open circle, the steps mimic that of a Canadian Barn Dance from Scottish Country Dancing.

    Over wine, she talks us through how the music and costumes vary throughout different regions, some preferring faster music, others choosing heavier, darker clothes. She tells us about common instruments- lots of bagpipes she notes. It turns out that there are lots of similarities to Celtic music in traditional Bulgarian folk music and even some of the patterns used. I’m reminded of the guide earlier explaining Celts had been in the area- Gerard Butler’s got some explaining to do.

    We’ve just about got the hang of the steps when it’s time to add it to music. It’s all going fine until the music gets faster and faster and we all lose our timing aside from Desi who performs each step with mastered precision.

    (The song in the last video is one of the songs on the gold disc sent up with the Voyager Spacecraft in 1977. I’m told it’s a traditional Bulgarian folk song but I’m convinced it would fit right in on the Braveheart soundtrack 😉)
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