Pontrhydfendgaid end of day 21

Thursday: Far earlier start today at 09:30. Great improvement on yesterday's 11:00. A long day ahead of 11 miles with an outline plan to get to Strata Florida Abbey before it closed at 5pm. Rainy morning and difficult terrain made the whole day quite long.

Esgair Wynt (SN744552 / 449m) felt like the loneliest place a had visited. I could see for miles from the top of this nondescript hill with no sign of civilisation in any direction.

Downside of today as I was walking through some long grass heavy with rain, water ran into my boots which were soaked within two minutes. Lesson learned, wear gaiters or over trousers if long grass is wet.

Arrived Strata Florida Abbey 6 o'clock so too late to enter. Camped at Nant-y-Rhelyg campsite on a smallholding on the edge of Pontrhydfendgaid village £6.50. Basic with just toilet and basin with cold water, although it was in a stylish Swedish sauna style wooden building smartly decorated with plesant flooring. Much better than the portaloo I had feared. As I pitched had treat of 3 Red Kites flying as low as 30 feet overhead whistling to each other.

300 yards walk through the village suppered at Black Lion. Particularly tasty ham and leek pie of considerable quantity clearly made from quality ingredients. Washed down with Stowford Press cider - a definite favourite. Long pleasant chat with Landlord and Landlady at the end of the evening during which they explained The Black Lion has red painted facade to reproduce how it used to be years ago. It had the serendipitous effect of attracting lots of customers because of its bright colour.

Weather - hot at first, then rain showers on and off through the day, evening sunny.

Distance 11.4 miles over 5:45 at average 2.0 mph.Læs mere