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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay
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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay

Walk around Wales on the Wales Coast path, Offa's Dyke Path, Wales Coast Path and Cambrian Way. Read more
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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Glaslyn lager beach
    Glaslyn lager beachWhole of Glaslyn lake. Smaller beach left of picture on far shore

    52e Glaslyn

    July 11 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I took a few pictures as I walked past Glaslyn (Blue lake). Access is some way off the road along a track. Sign posts advertise it being for recreational purposes. There appear to be two beaches. I could see people on watercraft (canoe or paddleboard?) and some swimming. It looked gorgeous on such a hot dayRead more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Bugeilyn with boat house in the right of the picture
    Bugeilyn with boat house in the right of the pictureLillies on the lake beside the boat house

    52f Bugeilyn

    July 11 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Bugeilyn is 1 of 2 lakes beside each other. They are even higher altitude than Glaslyn. Bugeilyn has a small boat house that appeared to be unused. I sat in its shade for an hour to recover strength and write more blog.Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Stone structure atop Garn Fawr. Perhaps a shelter?
    Stone structure atop Garn Fawr. Perhaps a shelter?Stones atop Garn Fawr

    Day 52 Waun Tyisaf to Garn Fawr

    July 11 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Saturday: Up 06:30 away 08:20

    After an initial navigation error I made frequent references to the OS map on my device. Some sections I remembered from walking it south to north in 2019. It was a very hot day of 26-29C and there was hardly any shelter which made the walk more of a struggle than yesterday when I had had more shelter from trees etc.

    At Bugeilyn lake I was passed by three mountain cyclists. Along with the 3 swimmers I had seen earlier, these were the only people I saw all day.

    After resting at Bugeilyn lake and recharging device it was five o'clock. This was too early to camp, it was still very hot and there didn't seem to be anywhere suitable to camp near the lake. I decided to press on up one more hill of one hundred and fifty metres to make tomorrow's start easier because I would not have to begin with this ascent.

    The route continued on the track I had been following for about a 1000 m. Then turned left to cross a wide valley floor. I remembered this was very boggy when I last crossed it in 2019. Because the weather had been hot and dry for many weeks the bog was a lot drier than I remembered as I had hoped. I turned off the track sooner than the map indicated because I could see a line of posts across the valley. This was a mistake because it was not way marks as I had assumed but markers for drainage inspection covers. After crossing a stream I stopped to soak my shirt again to provide some cooling. Weather was still very hot. I eventually reached the top of Garn Fawr. I found it had short grass as I had hoped so I soon found a level spot to pitch camp.

    Breeze got up during the evening. Forecast was 14-28 knots over night so I double pegged the windward lines. Temperature was forecast to feel like 9C. Quite different from previous few nights.

    Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
    06:30 Up
    08:20 Began walking (rather more seeds to pick out of boots and socks than usual)
    10:30 Top of Pen Esgair Wen
    11:35 Stopped to lunch in The Star Inn
    13:08 Restated walking from Star Inn
    16:00 Arrived boat house on Bugeilyn
    17:02 Restarted walking
    18:25 Arrived Garn Fawr for tonights pitch

    9.47 miles with 2104' of ascent from Waun Tyisaf to Garn Fawr completed at end of 52nd day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 492
    Miles in 2026 : 82
    Weather : Glouriously sunny all day and hot. Forec 3 breeze at the end of the day.
    Number of people passed : 6
    Objective tomorrow : Across all the Plynlimon tops passing the sources of the rivers Severn and Wye before descending to the A44. Then a short walk to Woodlands luxury campsite in Devils Bridge.    Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    OS Map has path on East / right of this fence. But there is no crossing over this tangential fence
    OS Map has path on East / right of this fence. But there is no crossing over this tangential fenceA stone and pieces of timber are presumably to assist crossing fence

    Day 53a Esgair Fuwch-wen

    July 12 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    The strong wind throughout the night was still blowing strongly in the morning. It had partially pulled my double windward pegs out of the ground during the night. This explained why the tent had been flapping against my head much of the night. I had had my sleeping bag hood pulled over me to cushion the thrashing.

    400m across the moorland from my pitch I crossed through a small gate above the source of the river Severn. The fence line I had to follow southwards had paths worn on both east and west sides. The map suggested use the path on the east side. The west side path was the more worn of the two. Ahead on the east side I could see a tangential fence in the distance which looked like it did not have a crossing. I chose the west path.    Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Boundary stone
    Boundary stone

    Day 53b Boundary stone

    July 12 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    I passed a few of these. They are marked on the OS Map either as 'BS' or 'Stone'. At first I thought these were grave stones because they were accurately cut and neatly engraved, albeit generally illegible. After passing a few that were legible I found they simply had a date on them. I suppose it was cheaper to erect a line of stones than build a wall or a fence.Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Pool I rested beside and used to filter water.
    Pool I rested beside and used to filter water.

    Day 53e Rest & water stop

    July 12 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    Sunday

    I was beginning to run out of water and after two and a half hours of walking was wearied so began looking for a pool / pond to rest and top up water bottles. I walked off the track a couple of hundred yards to find the first two pools on the map. They had dried up and so had the next one. Fortunately, the fourth I came across at SN 79649 87065 had plenty of water. By now the Grayl Ultrapress water filter was proving really hard to press. Taking a good few minutes to produce 450 ml of water. Fortunately the new filter I ordered on Saturday from Amazon should arrive at my next campsite on Monday.Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Pen Pumlumon Fawr
    Pen Pumlumon Fawr

    Day 53g Pen Pumlumon Fawr

    July 12 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Highest point today, Pen Pumlumon Fawr / top of big Plynlimon. Wind up to this point had been quite strong from my left side then behind me as the route turned more west. On top of Pen Pumlumon Fawr force suddenly increased to point where I was struggling to stand upright. So I beat a hasty retreat down from here.Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    A44 civilisation
    A44 civilisation

    Day 53h civilisation!

    July 12 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    After a whole day walking across moorland only seeing three people and speaking to one, it was uplifting to see the distant A44, my first sign of civilisation.

    A few hundred yards from the A44, just north of Duffryn Castell, the OS map has an error between SN 77546 82145 and SN 77430 81913. It illustrates the path to the east of a fence line, but in fact path is to the west of the fence. This would omit a gate through a fence at SN 77546 82145 and the need to climb over a fence at SN 77430 81913.Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Woodlands campsite has WiFi
    Woodlands campsite has WiFi

    Day 53 Garn Fawr to Woodlands Caravan and campsite

    July 12 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Sunday: Up 07:15 away 08:35

    The day had begun cold and quite windy, necessitating four layers of clothing. A contrast to the previous few days. The wind had managed to pull my windward most pegs partially out of the ground, lowering the end of the tent a little.

    The entire day's walk was over moor land, initially level with a few ups and downs. As the highest point of the day, Plynlimon had looked intimidating high from my camping pitch but it proved not too onerous as each of the 'ups' on the way rose gently toward it.

    I quickly walked down from the top of Plynlimon to evade the very strong wind. Then on the short section along the A44, followed by a mile along the B4343 to where the Cambrian Way left the road. Along the roads the wind had stopped, the sun was high and it was hot. From here to the campsite was a 3 mile walk along the B4343 then the A4120. I put my thumb out to the few cars that passed, eventually getting a lift from a couple for the final mile. They were on their way home to Pembrokeshire from Shifnal Shropshire where they had been to look at a car.

    Arrival at Woodlands was uplifting. Sam on reception remembered our conversation from yesterday about me having Amazon parcels arrive, booked me in (£19/night) and set my Powerbank charging overnight. I setup pitch in the shade of a tree, loaded washing machine with my 5 days of laundry and had a very welcome shower - heaven.

    A short while later hiker Kevin arrived and pitched near me. He had also been walking the Cambrian Way north to south. He had started today from The Star Inn where he had stayed a couple of nights. We went for a drink later in the nearby pub and exchanged stories.

    Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
    06:30 awoke but too windy and cold so rolled over
    07:15 Up
    08:35 Began walking
    10:55 Stopped to rest, blog and refill water bottles beside pond at SN79656 87060
    11:55 Restarted walking
    15:20 Arrived where Cambrian Way leaves B4343 road
    16:00 Arrived Woodlands Caravan and camping park

    10.4 miles with 1103' of ascent from Garn Fawr until I got a lift a mile north of Woodlands Caravan and camping park completed at end of 53rd day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 502
    Miles in 2026 : 92
    Weather : sunny all day, windy all day very strong from 12:15 until 14:15
    Number of people passed : 3
    Objective tomorrow : Section of Cambrian Way around Devil's bridge.    Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Art around Woodlands campsite - Bull
    Art around Woodlands campsite - BullArt around Woodlands campsite includes this anchorAnchor from the sideArt around Woodlands campsite - horse & jockeyArt around Woodlands campsite - BearArt around Woodlands campsite - Farming implementsArt around Woodlands campsite - Farming implementsArt around Woodlands campsite - Deer

    Day 54 Woodlands campsite semi circle

    July 13 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Monday: Up 08:15 away 11:45

    Relaxed start today because I thought walk was going to be relatively easy hike in a semi circle. I spent much of the morning writing blog for previous day. Because I was leaving my tent pitched and furnished, my rucksack was much lighter than previous days.

    I walked to where I had left the Cambrian Way yesterday on the B4343. Then resumed the Cambrian way in a semi circle around Woodlands campsite, ending at Devil's Bridge and returning to the campsite. It took longer than I thought, and was further than I realised. I did manage to hitch a lift for about 1/2 a mile to the start point but other than that, I walked all the way.

    Woodlands is the best campsite I have ever stayed in. It has a smart shower (included) / toilet / washing up block; level ground; closely mown grass; ground that is easy to push pegs in; lots of water points; a café; WiFi; washing machine & tumble drier (£1 coins); rotary clothes line; seats around the site; many picnic tables and lots of sculture art. £19 / night is the most I have paid but it was worth it.

    Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
    08:15 up
    11:45 began walking
    12:30 Arrived back at Cambrian Way point that I left yesterday
    14:30 Stopped for a break
    15:42 restarted walking
    17:54 Arrived campsite

    9.2 miles with 1843' of ascent from Woodlands Caravan and camping site back to site completed at end of 54th day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 512
    Miles in 2026 : 102
    Weather : Glouriously sunny hot with strong wind
    Number of people passed : 0
    Objective tomorrow : Go home because it is too warm to continue for now with temperatures hitting high 20s Celsius. Also wind has been strong and is forecast to continue, although I have found it to be a lot stronger than the 10 - 14 knots forecast.
    I shall return another day to continue my walk.    Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Hafod Arch
    Hafod ArchArch information boardUpstream from footbridge over afon MynachFootbridge over afon MynachDownstream from footbridge over afon MynachMap of walks around Woodlands campsiteAberffrwd station on Vale of Rheidol narrow gauge railwayPrince of Wales steam locomotive that had been pulling my train from Aberystwyth to Devil's bridge

    Day 55 Woodlands campsite quarter circle

    July 27 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Monday: Back on the Cambrian Way

    4 buses and a ride on The Vale of Rheidol narrow gauge railway from Aberystwyth to Devil's bridge completed my journey from Cardiff to restart walk from where I finished 2 weeks ago. I almost did not make it. My second bus (T4 from Merthyr Tydfil to Llandrindod Wells) was delayed entering Builth Wells by a 10 minute traffic jam. I only had 7 minutes for bus change in Llandrindod Wells otherwise the next bus would be in 2 hours. Fortunately my driver telephoned ahead and got my third bus (X47 Llandrindod Wells to Llangurig) to delay departure so that a few of us could catch it. Isn't the countryside great?

    Forecast was a sunny day, but halfway along my train journey it began to rain and continued to rain all the evening. I pitched quickly after checking in, then immediately began walking a quarter circle on the Cambrian Way around the campsite from Devil's Bridge village to the Arch. The Arch marked the ancient edge of the Hafod estate. My thinking was, if I walked this 3.5 miles this evening, I could shortcut 2 miles directly to the Arch tomorrow. However, I discovered the 2 miles was not straightforward, was over rough ground, on a narrow path, with low trees and high Ferns. The longer 3.5 miles was easier.

    6 miles with 1011' of ascent from Devil's to Hafod Arch completed at end of 55th day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 518
    Miles in 2026 : 108
    Weather : sunny until mid afternoon then rain for remainder of the day.
    Number of people passed : 0
    Objective tomorrow : Claerddu Bothy    Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    View east from 'The Arch' car park towards my destination of Cwmystwyth
    View east from 'The Arch' car park towards my destination of CwmystwythWalk started on this forest trackNew gaiters worn for the first time today

    56a Arch above Devil's Bridge

    July 28 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Tuesday

    Lazy start today because tent was wet from overnight rain and no need to rush. After packing called in at the Woodlands campsite café for light breakfast of tea, beans on toast and a welsh cake ... of course.

    Because I had walked to The Arch yesterday, today I started walking the B4574 back to The Arch with the hope of hitching a lift. Sure enough, I get a lift for the last mile, saving me 25 minutes of walking.

    Today was the first time I wore my new 'shortie' gaiters. They were recommended to me by my Barmouth Walking Festival friend Clive who has been using them for years. They were a complete success. They saved me 30 - 40 minutes every evening picking seeds out of my boots and socks.
    £17 from Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0BXL1S7FT    Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Waterfall in Cwm Glas on descent down to Cwmystwyth
    Waterfall in Cwm Glas on descent down to CwmystwythBroken stile between 2 of the fields with tall wet grass

    Day 56c Cwm Glas

    July 28 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Tuesday

    After leaving the forest track the route followed short section on a minor road, then across crossed 3 fields. These all had tall wet grass that obscured the track making walking difficult. I frequently found my footing was on the edge of the path and slipped down into the worn pathway as a result. At a house the tall grass ended and the route followed a steam along pleasant short grass down to a road into Cwmystwyth.Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Top of Domen Milwyn. The highest point of the day.
    Top of Domen Milwyn. The highest point of the day.

    Day 56e Domen Milwyn

    July 28 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Tuesday

    Cwmystwyth village was quiet. I met no one until I ascended the hill out of the village where I met farmer Dafydd and his daughter Nancy. We chatted for a few minutes.

    Passed the farm the route ascended a farm track, then a left turn (that I initally missed) up and across a grassy field, passed some derelict buildings to a higher farm track. When this ended I continued up the valley until I crossed a fence through a new small gate that closed properly (I have found gates are generally hung with closing mechanisms too low, and occasionally too high). When I crossed this fence 8 years ago there was a dodgy stile that wobbled so the new gate warrented a small cheer.

    There followed a straightforward ascent across mostly rough ground to the top of Domen Milwyn. The high point of the day. Mostly downhill from here.    Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Approaching Llyn Fyrddon Fawr dam
    Approaching Llyn Fyrddon Fawr damOn top of Llyn Fyrddon Fawr dam which appears to be bulging on the left / east sideCloser view of the top of Llyn Fyrddon Fawr dam

    Day 56f Llyn Fyrddon Fawr

    July 28 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Tuesday

    From Domen Milwyn route ran a mile across moorland. It would probably be boggy any other time of year but was quite dry. Then up a slope to walk beside 2 lakes. The more northly first one, Llyn Fyrddon Fawr, had a dam on its east side. This was bulging considerably. Which had me wondering if it might collapse in the future.Read more

  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayTraveler
    Claerddu bothy kitchen
    Claerddu bothy kitchen

    Day 56 Devil's Bridge to Claerddu bothy

    July 28 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Tuesday: Up early away 11:30

    From Llyn Fyrddon Fawr and Llyn Fyrddon Fach the final ¾ mile of the route was downhill to Claerddu bothy. When I arrived there was a party of 3 friends from Manchester in the Bothy. Richard, Tracy and Wayne had a fire going in the grate and had cleared litter left by previous parties. Having arrived by car, that was parked 600 yards away on the nearest road, they had been able to take bin bags of rubbish back to their car. They were a friendly bunch that it was a pleasure to spend an evening with. When they learned my age, they were kind enough to say they assumed I was younger. I was forced to agee with them!

    When Kevin (who I had met at Woodlands campsite 2 weeks ago, and exchanged phone numbers with) arrived here 2 weeks ago, there were 2 parties each of 8 Duke of Edinburgh students. Understandably he elected not to stay. Instead walking on to wild camp beside the Teifi lakes a mile south. I was fortunate to not have the same fate.

    Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
    11:30 Left Woodlands Café
    12:07 After getting a lift to The Arch I began walking.
    13:10 Stile at SN 78492 74930 / 52.35893, -3.78571 Is broken. No posts and both steps laying on the ground.
    14:58 Rest stop on Esgair Milwyn above Cwmystwyth
    15:25 restarted walking
    16:11 Top of Domen Milwyn
    17:45 Arrived Claerddu bothy

    8.6 miles with 1972' of ascent from Devil's Bridge to Claerddu bothy completed at end of 56th day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 527
    Miles in 2026 : 117
    Weather : Overcast morning with occasional sunny interval. After sunny with light breeze.
    Number of people passed : 2
    Objective tomorrow : Garn Gron    Read more