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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay
  • RickSails
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maj 2023 – sep. 2025

WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay

Walk around Wales on the Wales Coast path, Offa's Dyke Path, Wales Coast Path and Cambrian Way. Læs mere
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  • Sidst set 💤
    I dag
    RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    The Rhinogs in low cloud from the Bus home
    Trawsfynydd Dam on a good weather day. It was raining too hard to photograph it todayTrawsfynydd Dam downstream side on a better weather dayFronwynion Street - Trawsfynydd's principal streetCross Foxes TrawsfynyddDave my walking and drinking buddyApparently I look slimmer?Rhinogs from TrawsfynyddRhinogs from the A470 during a brief bright spellMy spacious room in Cross Foxes 'bunkhouse'

    Day 42 Maentwrog to Trawsfynydd

    10. juli 2023, Wales ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Monday : Up 07:00, away 09:15.

    Dry as I began striking camp and packing. Rain started as I struck tent. Walked the mile to Maentwrog, where I met my friend Dave from Barmouth Walking Festival, who was joining me for the day. Dave said I looked thinner, when I weigh myself later at home I discovered I have lost 13 lbs / 6Kgs.

    Out of Maentwrog, our walk started straight uphill for a mile on a minor road, then off right for a short distance on a track before crossing wet fields for 3/4 mile to Trawsfynydd Dam. There followed 3 miles along west side of Llyn Trawsfynydd lake. It was raining all the while as we passed Cae Adda campsite where I had planned to camp. Dave had found that the website for Cross Foxes pub in Trawsfynydd village advertised a bunk house. With the constant rain this seemed more sensible than camping.

    We paused for lunch at the Mountain rescue centre when rain stopped for a shot while.

    As we passed the Dam at the southern end of the lake there was an increase in vehicles, we assumed these were fishermen. At the junction with the main A470 we turned left / north towards Trawsfynydd village. This part of the road has a welcome pavement as traffic was passing at 60 mph.

    In the village stopped at Garage to say hello to the father of my former colleague Emyr, whom I had worked with at Kukd/Eurofoods.

    15:10 entered Cross Foxes Inn and was told opening was 17:00. Enquired if a room was available, there was, and in which case Bar was open for us immediately - result! We ate when kitchen opened at 17:00. Dave left around 20:00 to drive home to Cheshire. It had been great to spend a day with him despite the poor weather,

    All good things come to an end and ths one has too. I need 4 days of good days weather to hike across the Rhinog mountains to Barmouth. Rain and high winds are forecast for remainder of the week so going to call it a day on my walk around Wales and travel home tomorrow. I was lucky too get 6 weeks of good weather and optimistic to expect it to last 2 months.

    9 miles from Maentwrog to Trawsfynydd completed at end of 42nd day of walking and 9th on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 410
    Average speed : 1.7 mph
    Weather : Dry at first then rain for much of the day, blustery wind from mid afternoon
    Number of people passed : 0
    Objective tomorrow : Going home    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Porthmadog railway station
    Interior of St.Twrog's churchPorthmadog railway stationPorthmadog railway station looking eastPorthmadog railway stationLilli engine against Tremadoc BayTan y bwlch railway stationMoel Bowydd from Bleanau FfestiniogTanygrisiau railway stationTrain on circular track that elevates it enough to be above the Llyn Tanygrisiau reservoirMy ticketsPlas Halt where I ended my journeyStart of my walk down hill from Plas Halt railway station

    Day 41 day off in Maentwrog & Porthmadog

    9. juli 2023, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Sunday : Up 08:00, away 09:10.

    Slept later than I intended, presumably tired from lack of sleep yesterday. Skipped breakfast and started walk to Maentwrog for 10:00 Service at St.Twrog's. I was a little early as I passed Grapes Hotel, which was open, so popped in for a cup of Tea. Visiting Minister's Sermon included reference to Joseph, perhaps unwisely, telling his brothers his dream that he had of them bowing down to him and so incurring their ire and their plot to dispose of him. He reflected that similarly in a murder investigation, the Police first look to eliminate family members. I am sure we all know the story that it all worked out okay in the end as Joseph became Pharaoh's right hand man and was reconciled to his brothers.

    During the after Service Teas and Coffees I asked about buses to Porthmadog. Parishioner Doris was driving to Porthmadog so I had a lift - hurrah!

    In Porthmadog used a laundrette. Probably for the first time since I was a child using one under my Mother's instruction.

    Then walked through Porthmadog High Street to the Ffestiniog railway station. I was hoping to walk around Porthmadog harbour and Martime museum but last train was in 20 minutes so I boarded for Bleanau Ffestiniog.

    Blaenau was somewhat sad looking, although council funds had clearly been spent on smart paving and public buildings to make it look a little better.

    I returned on the train as far as Plas Halt, the closet to Maentwrog. I was puzzled why the train occasionally slowed until, in a curve in the line, I realised it was for sheep on the line!

    2.5 miles around Maentwrog, Porthmadog and Blaenau Ffestiniog completed at end of 41st day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 401
    Weather : sunshine and glorious most of the day. Heavy rain late afternoon for an hour
    Number of people passed : Hundreds
    Objective tomorrow : Cae Adda campsite, Trawsfynydd    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Summit of Moelwyn Mawr
    Slate tip at disused Rhosydd QuarryWalking in cloud up Moelwyn MawrView towards Llyn Ffestiniog from just below Llyn Stwlan lakeView of Blaenau Ffestiniog from Camfa DerwHuge Ferns on Camfa Derw. I don't remember them at all when I was walking this way mid June 2022?Dduallt track and stationDduallt waiting room1Trackside wires seem closer to footpath on underbridge than one might expectParticularly good facilities in washing up area at Llechrwd Riverside campsiteWashing up area at Llechrwd Riverside campsiteMilestone in MaentwrogGrapes Hotel MaentwrogGrapes Hotel Maentwrog car park and rear entranceGrapes Hotel superb outside seating area

    Day 40 Cnicht to Maentwrog

    8. juli 2023, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Saturday : Up 06:00, away 07:00.

    Wind strength was unbelievable during the night. Tent was continually flapping violently against my sleeping bag. I felt sure my Terra Nova Wild Country Zephyros 1 tent was going to shred at any moment. I was kept awake much of the night both by being battered by the flapping tent and the anxiety of thinking I could be homeless in any moment!

    At 6 am, wind was still wild, but the tent had held and it had not rained, in fact the sun was shining. I skipped cooking porridge as stove was unlikely to work well in the wind. I had plenty of Pepperarmis, energy bars and a sandwich from Beddgelert grocer bought yesterday.

    As I walked down the gentle slope towards Llyn yr Adar wind was the same strength but didn't feel as bad walking with rucksack packed. Psychosomatic no doubt. Then a right turn down towards a large disused Slate quarry. This mile looked straightforward but took a while as I referred to map frequency to try to stay on the Cambrian Way route. Met a German couple here who had wild camped beside Llyn Cwm-corsiog. I forgot to ask them how windy it was. I wondered if it was better sheltered than my pitch.

    Through the disused Slate Quarry it began gently raining. The route ascended a slate incline that was very wet, I placed each foot step carefully.

    After leaving the slate workings behind and beginning my ascent up Moelwyn Mawr I met WO2 (Warrent officer 2) Sargeant Major Steve. He had retired just a few months earlier in September 2022. He was carefully assessing his position on an OS Map using the contours and features. A skill he said he had lost as he ascend the ranks. Apparently this tends to be a role for more junior Soldiers. We met a few more times as I ascended (because he kept overtaking me) and chatted about lots of things military. He echoed what I had heard a few weeks before from a former Royal Marine on Offa's Dyke path, that UK territorial forces were being built up as UK has been behind other countries in this regard.

    Having only met 4 people all morning, at the top of Moelwyn Mawr a party of 8 arrived soon after me. Steve was already there making a brew - of course! I was amazed how light his JetBoil stove was. Even including the Gas canister it was far lighter than my MSR Saucepan.

    Down from Moelwyn Mawr took a while needing care on the tricky scrambles down. Once at Bwlch Stwlan descent was an easy, though boggy, zig-zag down to Llyn Stwlan Dam. The mile below Stwlan Dam through Camfa Derw was slow, picking through high Ferns. I am sure these were not here last June 2022?

    I passed the turn off to Duallt station on the Ffestiniog narrow gauge railway by not paying attention. Although gentle, the ascent back seemed to take forever because I was tiring.

    Once on the road, route was straightforward and once I had left Cambrian Way I put my thumb out and eventually got a lift the last few hundred yards to Llechrwd Riverside campsite.

    Teachers accompaning Duke of Edinburgh students pitched next to me. Maria had a Terra Nova Laser 1 tent. It was exactly the same design as mine, but made from lighter material that made it lighter. How I envied that saved 0.5 Kg! ... although not the extra £400 it cost.

    Had supper at the nearby Grapes Hotel a mile away in Maentwrog. No success in hitching this time sadly.

    9.5 miles from Cnicht to Llechrwd Riverside campsite completed at end of 40th day of walking and 8th on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 398.5
    Average speed : 1.3 mph
    Weather : Extremely strong wind overnight and dry. Sunshine at first with very strong wind. Cloudly with spots of rain from 08:30. Cloud rolled in around 10:00 which l was in until mid afternoon. Sunny, reducing cloud and temperature increasing for remainder of the day.
    Number of people passed : 18
    Objective tomorrow : Day off    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Summit of Cnicht
    Hercules flying through Nantgwynant valley maneuvering between the mountainsDerek on the Afon Glaslyn walkElaborate bridge deck adjustment to pass rock wall on Afon Glaslyn walkLooking south west from route up to Cnicht towards PorthmadogCnicht still quite distantView south west towords Porthmadog from higher up ridge to CnichtFrom Cnicht summit looking northPool I pitched beside

    Day 39 Pont Bethania to Cnicht

    7. juli 2023, Wales ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Friday : Up 07:00, away 09:00.

    Struck camp without breakfast so I could eat in nearby Caffi Pont Bethania. Cambrian Way then continued alongside Llyn Dinas lake. Passed a couple of Duke of Edinburgh parties here. A short while later met my friend Derek from Barmouth Walking festival. Derek was in good time and, as usual, I was late! I topped up with groceries then we set off.

    Route started along spectacular Afon Glaslyn River. The riverside route involved traversing large rocks, handholds bolted onto the rock sides and steps bolted onto huge rocks.

    Then through woodland before breaking out to an open track approach towards Cnicht. Temperature was hot by now. Derek had recced a short cut near here yesterday which had proved wet and overgrown. A reason why it is worth following long distance paths, they seem to be better maintained.

    This path seemed interminable. We stopped for lunch at rocks suitable for sitting. At this point I reaslised I had left my walking stick in the Pont Aberglasyn/Nantmor car park. Derek returned from here after we had lunched. It had been great having his company and I felt the loss when we parted.

    I continued on the ever steepening ascent passing a couple of desending parties on the way. One more party at the final rock slab. I correctly ascended this on the east side. Last year I descend down the 30 foot west side rock slab which took ages and was hazardous.

    Once atop Cnicht I carried on north a few hundred yards past 2 more lesser peaks. A short distance further on a 30 foot diameter pool looked attractive to camp near, had signal and was closer than Llyn yr Adar lake that I had been thinking of camping beside. There was little breeze as I pitched but it gradually increased. I then checked the forecast which predicted gusting to 49 knots! Oh well, committed now but I expect to be homeless by the morning.

    Today's timings -
    09:00 left campsite,
    09:20 arrived Caffi Bethania for breakfast
    09:45 began walk on Llyn Dinas lakeside path,
    11:10 arrived Beddgelert, met Derek, bought groceries,
    11:30 left Beddgelert,
    15:30 Derek returned to Beddgelert,
    17:10 arrived bottom of Cnicht final ascent,
    17:35 reached Cnicht summit,

    10 miles from Pont Bethania to Cnicht completed at end of 39th day of walking and 7th on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 389
    Average speed : 1.5 mph
    Weather sunshine and glorious. A hot day with an occasional breeze. Wind strong in the evening from 20:00.
    Number of people passed : 22
    Objective tomorrow : Moelwyn Mawr then Maentwrog.    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    On Snowdon summit when weather was clear for a few minutes
    Well made surface of Miners track but not a location I expected to see a Men at work signPipeline from reservoir down to hydro electric power station with adjacent welfare unitCauseway over Llyn Llydaw lake. The path surface is this smooth for 1.5 milesView north east across Llyn Llydaw lake towards causewayStream and waterfall draining into Llyn Llydaw lakeDisused slate mining building on shore of Llyn Llydaw lakeHalf way along Llyn Llydaw path surface becomes laid large rocks as steeper ascent beginsI found myself walking on the large edging rocks on this path. It seemed easier/quickerGlaslyn lake outfallNorth edge of Glaslyn lake. From here the Miners track becomes steep and is laid as stepsStone marking junction of PYG and Miners tracks. Glaslyn behind and Llyn Llydaw beyondCliff face above GlaslynCloud had been high all the way up then lowered to create a not unfamilar scene of path in cloudDescent from Snowdon along Llechog ridge. Both Rhud Ddu path and South route run along hereView towards distant Llyn Cwellyn lake. Snowdon Ranger route from here along the ridge on the rightYr Arran from Snowdon South route on Allt Maenderyn ridgeWhere the Watkin path departs from the South route. Centre of picture tracing its way down mountainLadder stile on South route in need of some repairTramway on South route just above where it re-joins the Watkin path

    Day 38 Pen-y-pass Snowdon Pont Bethania

    6. juli 2023, Wales ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Thursday : Up 06:45, away 08:30.

    Caught 09:03 bus from Pont Bethania back to Pen-y-pass. Bought a few provisions from Youth Hostel which was being manned by Kate whom I had met in YHA Conwy. She gets around.

    The Miners track and PYG path start together and rejoin high up the mountain. I decided to take the Miners track. Very gentle ascent at first, steps and scrambling towards the end.

    I managed to get a lady from Heath, Cardiff to photograph me at the top and I returned the favour.

    The Café was open at the top so Tea, sandwich and cake were purchased. Talked to a chap from Coventry and lady from Italy. Easy to tell she was from Italy she was so smartly dressed - how do the Italians do that?

    Desent was straightforward down the 'South route'. Only passed 5 people.

    Arrived campsite in plenty of time to shower and change for 18:49 bus to Beddgelert. Decided to go straight to the Tronnoen Inn. The staff were odd but they were friendly, the furniture was comfortable and they were happy for me to charge my device. Got talking to a Richard who left a well paid job in Engineering that he loathed to hand draw maps that he loves http://www.firtreemaps.com

    Got a lift back to the campsite from fellow campers Alan from Ledbury and son Tony from Cornwall.

    Today's timings -
    09:40 left Pen-y-pass,
    12:55 top of Snowden,
    13:35 began descent,
    16:55 arrived Pont Bethania.

    10 miles from Pen-y-pass to Pont Bethania completed at end of 38th day of walking and 6th on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 379
    Average speed : 1.5 mph
    Weather : Mostly overcast with sunny intervals. SW breeze for much of the day that was strong around the summit and on the South facing descent.
    Number of people passed : Dozens, but only 5 on the descent down the South route.
    Objective tomorrow : Cnicht    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Castell y Gwynt (Castle of the winds)
    Start of walk from Idwal cottage is over this river bridgeRocky path I had to climb up before Bwlch TryfanLlyn Bochlwyd (understandably nicknamed 'Australia lake') with Llyn Idwal in the backgroundRocks on approach to Glyder FachGlyder FachView east towards Moel SiabodGlyder FawrLooking down from Glyder Fawr towards Pen-y-passSlab of rock (limestone?) on route between Glyder Fawr and Pen-y-passGoats!

    Day 37 YHA Idwal cottage to Pen y pass

    5. juli 2023, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Wednesday : Up 06:00, away 07:50.

    Last night's packing worked splendidly, allowing me to get away my earliest yet after breakfast. Walk began with gentle ascent over river bridge then across laid rocks to foot of waterfall on Nant Bochlwyd. Then steep up to Llyn Bochlwyd lake. I navigated too far south towards the lake. My excuse for poor navigationis that the path is faint here!

    Onwards up to Bwlch Tryfan over rocky path, some of it laid. Last year there were goats on this section but not this year. Over the stile onto the Miners track which is over very loose scree and stoney surface so I walked on it with considerable care. Reaching the top the route takes a hairpin right towards Glyder Fach. After 600 yards, a significant ridge of rocks required some careful scrambling to ascend over huge boulders.

    Once on the top route was straightforward passed Glyder Fach, Castell y Gwynt and Glyder Fawr. Mostly over rocky ground.

    Descent down from Glyder Fawr was challenging. The route was unclear, I ended up lowering myself down rock walls and laterly over very wet ground to get to Pen-y-pass.

    Today's timings -
    07:50 started walking,
    09:50 reached Bwlch Tryfan ladder stile,
    11:00 reached top of Miners track,
    12:10 reached Glyder Fach,
    13:00 reached Glyder Fawr,
    15:00 reached Pen-y-pass in good time for 15:35 bus to Pont Bethania

    I was well ahead of the 10 hours I took to cross the Glyders last year so was able to catch 3 hour earlier bus. Arrived National Trust campsite Hafod-y-Llan around 16:30 with plenty of time to pitch and shower before catching 18:49 bus from nearby Pont Bethania to Beddgelert for supper, Cider and device charging.

    In Beddgelert I tried the Prince Llewelyn and Y Bistro yn yr Hebog for supper but both had all seats taken so ended in the Tronnoen Inn where I had suppered last year and wanted to avoid! Got talking to an Australian-Canadian couple who were staying next door to the Inn. They kindly drove me back to campsite when I said I was going to get a taxi. People are so kind. They live in Australia. The Canadian lady said she doesn't miss Canada, it is too cold!

    6 miles from Idwal cottage to Pen y pass completed at end of 37th day of walking and 5th on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 369
    Average speed : 1.2 mph
    Weather sunshine and glorious. Another hot day with a welcome ENE breeze for much of the day.
    Number of people passed : 21
    Objective tomorrow : Over Snowdon from Pen-y-pass to Pont Bethania    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    1Pen Yr Ole Wen looking west, illustrating the steep descent on the left of the photograph
    Llyn Ogwen lake looking westLlyn Ogwen lake looking eastLook closely and you will see I am being spied uponLadder stile with only the second Cambrian Way logo I have seen after 4 days on the routeAfon LloerView west from Cefn Ysgolion Duon towards Carnedd DafyddView illustrating surface. Anglesey/Ynos Môn in the backgroundMe on Carnedd Dafydd.Me on Carnedd Dafydd looking south. Tryfan in the backgroundSSW from Carnedd Dafydd towards Pen Yr Ole Wen with Snowdon behind in the distanceWest from Carnedd Dafydd toward Anglesey/Ynos Môn illustrating very stoney surfaceGrassy route over Bwlch yr Ole Wen from Carnedd Dafydd to Pen yr Ole WenPen yr Ole Wen summit'Chimney' I had to climb down on east end of Pen Yr Ole WenStones well laid by National Trust / National Park on path alongside Afon LloerPen yr Ole Wen from the south east. I am hoping I can find a better way up at a future timeLadder stile on route along north side of Llyn Ogwen lake. 3rd Cambrian Way symbol I have seen

    Day 36 Cwm Ysgolion Duon to Idwal

    4. juli 2023, Wales ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Tuesday : Up 08:00, away 10:45. Today is my continuation over the Carnedd mountains that I forshortened on Sunday because of extremely strong wind.

    After leaving the Hostel, walked east along the A5 then up the foot path alongside Afon Lloer stream. I carried on to the tarn at the bottom of the Cwm that is the source of the Afon Lloer. This was far wetter than my route down on Sunday when I had 'cut the corner' and walked further east. Lesson learned. I then retraced my route up the green hillside to Cefn Ysgolion Duon. Some wind at the top but nothing like as strong as on Sunday.

    Left/west turn here for a straightforward walk up to Carnedd Dafydd. Initially over grass, latterly small rocks. Quite an elaborate wind shelter here built with entrances in 3 directions on this, the second highest of the Carnedd peaks at 1044 metres / 3425 feet.

    Route down to Bwlch Ole Wen was rocky then grass before short ascent up Pen Yr Ole Wen. The whole of this walk was a circuit around a Cwm with the tarn at the bottom always in view on my left.

    I had been dreading the descent from Pen Yr Ole Wen knowing how steep it was the last time I ascended it. I had asked YHA Idwal cottage warden Jerone for advice, having found ascending it in 2022 required climbing. The descent did prove challenging taking 1:40. Resolved to return one day in future to establish which is the best route up and down. Once off Pen Yr Ole Wen I descended alongside Afon Lloer stream. This is my third time descending alongside this stream.

    Once at the bottom of the descent besdie Tal y Llyn Ogwen farm I walked along the Cambrian Way route along the north side of Llyn Ogwen lake to Idwal Cottage. I discovered this path was part of the Snowdonia slate trail. There were lots of ups and downs over rocks & wet ground and the final 100 yards were a particular challenge over precipitous rocks.

    Today's timings -
    11:15 reached east end of Llyn Ogwen,
    12:00 reached wall half way up Afon Lloer,
    13:45 reached Cefn Ysgolion Duon,
    14:15 reached summit Carnedd Dafydd,
    15:00 reached foot of Bwlch yr Ole Wen,
    15:10 reached summit Pen yr Ole Wen,
    16:50 reached wall half way down Afon Lloer,
    18:30 reached YHA Idwal cottage

    Chatting to warden Saskia after supper she mentioned a guest had cancelled their booking. This was for the single toom in the Hostel (there is only one single room). So I managed to 'upgrade' my tent pitch to the single room. This allowed me to strike tent while it was dry and pack everything for an early departure tomorrow morning on what I expect to be a hard walk over Glyder Fach, Glyder Fawr and down to Pen y pass.

    9 miles from Idwal Cottage back to Idwal Cottage completed at end of day 36th of walking and 4th on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 363
    Average speed : 1.3 mph
    Weather sunshine for most of the day with 20 minutes of rain around 12:30.
    Number of people passed : 6
    Objective tomorrow : Over the Glyders to Pen y pass.    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Interior of Bangor Cathedral

    Day 35 day off in Idwal and Bangor

    3. juli 2023, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Monday : Up 07:00, away 11:20. Lazy start to the day. After dressing in full wet weather clothes and packing everything else into rucksack, walked the 40 yards from the Youth Hostel garden camping grounds to the Youth Hostel for breakfast. Put Rucksack in drying room - it had got wet yesterday while pitching tent. Drying rooms are such an excellent feature of Youth Hostels. They are often too hot to stay in for more than a few minutes and can dry clothes in less than an hour.

    After writing yesterday's blog I caught 11:25 bus to Bangor. It was full of Scouts from Republic of Ireland so I only had a seat for half the journey until surrendering it to a more senior lady. I learned that schools in RoI have 3 months summer holiday.

    Rain had stopped by the time we arrived in Bangor. Went first to the nearby Cathedral. Was delighted to discover there is a daily Service that would begin 20 minutes after my arrival.

    After the Sevice stopped in a Café for lunch then walked around Bangor. Saddening to find quite a few empty shop units. Caught the 14:25 return bus back to Idwal cottage. Buses were every 2 hours.

    Back at the hostel finished yesterday's blog, made supper, chatted to a few fellow hostelers and booked to stay a 3rd night (Tuesday). Weather forecast had improved considerably so I resolved to continue my attempt to walk the Cambrian Way with a short 'test walk' tomorrow. I planned to walk to where I dropped off the route yesterday at Cefn Ysgolion Duon and from there continue walking The Cambrian Way to got as far as Idwal cottage.

    1 mile around Bangor completed at end of 35th day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 354
    Weather : Rain overnight and all morning. Sunshine from midday until late afternoon. Intermittent rain and sunshine for the remainder of the day.
    Objective tomorrow : Cefn Ysgolion Duon to YHA Idwal cottage.    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Looking south at the majestic Tryfan from Cefn Ysgolion Duon
    South west of Cwm Eigiau from Bwlch y GyrwdSouth east of Cwm Eigiau from Bwlch y GyrwdFoel-fras from Bwlch y GyrwdFoel-fras trig pointPile of stones on top of Carnedd GwenllianFoel Grach shelter facadeFoel Grach shelter explanationFoel Grach shelter instructionsFoel Grach shelter interiorMe sat in Foel Grach shelter illustrating low ceilingFoel Grach summitCarnedd Llewelyn summitFfynnon Llugwr reservoir from Carnedd LlewelynTryfan and the Glyders behind from Cefn Ysgolion DuonYHA Idwal cottageMy pitch in the garden of YHA Idwal cottage

    Day 34 Dulyn Bothy to YHA Idwal

    2. juli 2023, Wales ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Sunday : Up 07:00, away 09:30. Good night's sleep in Bothy, despite having to share with 4 strangers. I was first up but David, who arrived late previous night, was first away. Retraced route from Bothy back to Bwlch y Gwryd where I left Cambrian Way yesterday. Only 1.25 miles but took 2:40 over the tussocky surface. It was worth paying this price of going off road for the knowledge that Bothy stood the wind where the tent might not have. Although, the 3 tents pitched a few hundred yards down the valley were all still up in the morning so maybe I underestimated my tent?

    The walk across the bwlch (saddle) was fast over large laid stones. It looked as though this area would be very wet in the early part of the year. Then a climb up to Foel-fras over a pleasant grass surface. For 50 yards around Foel-fras trig point were rocks of 1 - 3 feet diameter making the approach tricky, like walking on a beach. I had thought there was a shelter here but had misremembered from walking this way in 2022. The shelter was in fact 2 peaks further south at Foel Grach.

    Descent from Foel-fras was speedy on grass of gentle descent. At the bottom the bwlch was again laid stones before the next ascent, again on grass to Carnedd Gwenllian. This peak was also rocky, although fewer and smaller in size so easy to walk across.

    Next peak was Foel Grach where I stopped in the shelter to lunch. Signs inside advised it as not to be used as a destination only in emergencies. The respite from the wind was most welcome. I was joined presently by 2 chaps who were walking the Wales 3000 (all the peaks in Wales above 3000 feet). They were surprised to find the shelter and puzzuled at its provision. The only other shelter I have come across is on Cadair Idris.

    Back out in the wind, which seemed stronger than ever, after a short descent to the bwlch was a long walk up to Carnedd Llewelyn, the highest mountain in the Carnedd range at 3491ft/1064m.

    The forecast for next few days was wind even stronger, gusting up to 40 knots and thunder storms so I resolved to shelve Cambrian Way and travel home Tuesday. I suppose I was unreasonably optimistic that I would have 2 months of good weather. So with the decision to go home made and the incessant wind wearing me down, I resolved to leave the ridge at the first opportunity, which would be after Bwlch Cyfryw-drum. The route down to the bwlch was over rock and gravel with a rocky peak at the bottom that the Cambrian Way passed to the east / leeward side. The shelter from the strong westerly wind was extremely welcome.

    A few hundred yards further, at 5pm, on escarpment Cefn Ysgolion Duon, I took a bearing left to aim to descend to Llyn Lloer lake. In the past I had seen people walk up this way from Llyn Lloer but there was no path marked on the map nor obvious on the ground. I was anxious there might be impassable rocks / cliff but it turned out to be a mostly grassy route with just an occasional rock to walk around. This veering to the left took me off the Cambrian Way avoiding an ascent up Carnedd Dafydd then Pen Yr Ole Wen and, what I was most eager to avoid, a very steep descent from Pen Yr Ole Wen.

    From Llyn Lloer I rejoined the Cambrian Way footpath alongside Afon Lloer stream down to the main A5 road. From here it was a mile walk alongside Llyn Ogwen lake to YHA Idwal cottage. I tried thumbing a lift but without success.

    Arriving just after 7pm I was greeted by Mark who showed me where to pitch after I had loaded the washing machine (no charge, just £1 in the charity collection). It began to rain heavily as I was pitching so I just put up the tent then retreated to the hostel to cook my supper in the well provisioned hostel kitchen. I finished 'furnishing' the tent later when the rain stopped.

    9 miles from Dylan Bothy to YHA Idwal completed at end of 34th day of walking and 3rd on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 353
    Average speed : 1.3 mph
    Weather : Strong wind of yesterday continued and made temperature cold as a result. Intermittent sunshine for most of the day. Light rain at very end of the day.
    Number of people passed : 8
    Objective tomorrow : Day off    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Dulyn bothy
    Quarry remains near Mean PendduTan-y-fan from Foel LwydTop of DrumWild horses on walk down to BothyDulyn bothy frontageDulyn bothy facadeDulyn bothy east elevationDulyn bothy west elevationDulyn bothy kitchen / communal areaDulyn bothy sleeping platformsWater routing walls for stream from Dulyn reservoirWater routing walls for stream from Dulyn reservoir

    Day 33 Rowen to Drum

    1. juli 2023, Wales ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Saturday : Up 08:30, away 10:45. Reached Cambrian Way at Mean Penddu rock 12:30 to resume walk south. Strong westerly wind hit me as soon as I crested the ridge. Surface was mostly grass, much of it worn to the soil and occasional small rocks. Hard work against the wind ascending first Tal-y-Fan, Foel Lwyd then very steep drop to Roman road at Bwlch y Ddeufaen followed by ascent to Drum. Foel-fras was to be my next and last objective of the day but wind was unbelievably strong, too much for tent pitching. Instead decided to descend to the east to Dulyn Bothy. In the lee of the ridge wind stopped within a few minutes as I descended. There was no route from the direction I was approaching so it was a hard 1.25 miles over rough ground that took 90 minutes.

    Arrived at the Bothy same time as a party of 3 friends. They decided to pitch their tents beside the lake that was a couple of hundred yards up hill, then came to the Bothy to cook supper. Another party of 3 pitched a couple of hundred yards downhill a short while later. Then a third party of 3 from Leeds arrived and joined me in the Bothy - so I didn't have it to myself in the end. About 10pm, a few minutes after retiring 1 more chap appeared in the Bothy for the night. He had been on the ridge but had found it very cold, so retreated to the warmth of the Bothy.

    9 miles from Rowen to Dulyn Bothy completed at end of 33rd day of walking and 2nd on the Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 344
    Average speed : 1.3 mph
    Weather : rain overnight and in the morning with strong wind. The wind continued all day and kept temperature sufficiently cool for me to wear jacket and overtrousers all day. Wind was strong enough to halt me and push me over at times.
    Number of people passed : 10
    Objective tomorrow : YHA Idwal    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Maen Penddu
    Conwy town centreGateway through castle wall to harbourConwy castle from the northCambrian Way starter postConwy harbourConwy harbourHarbourside walkwayGreat Orme head from top of Conwy mountainConwy mountain bearly readable information plaqueTop of Conwy mountainRiver Conwy from Maen EsgobIs this a plane tree like those that are common in France?Settlement on Conwy river

    Day 32 Conwy to Rowen

    30. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Friday : Up 06:30, away 09:30. I thought I would be away earlier without the need to strike camp, but not wanting to disturb the other 3 chaps in my shared room had delayed my departure. Yesterday, I had spotted a church that had a 10:00 service this morning. I had considered going to this before leaving Conwy because on Sunday, I will be on top of the Carnedd mountain range, so unable to attend a service. I decided against attending to get to next campsite earlier and pitch before forecast rain. I later regretted this because I arrived at site in good time and the forecast rain did not materialise.

    Once at Conwy castle I made the final of the 4 left turns I will make on my odyssey, this time southwards. Cambrian Way will be the hardest part of my journey at 298 miles and total ascent similar to Everest. All the walking up until Conwy has been training for this.

    First mile was along a pleasant seaside path then over a railway bridge before beginning ascent up Conwy mountain. Wind was strong in my face all the way up, prompting me to don my jacket. I was making surprisingly swift progress, passing 10 people on this stretch. As I crossed Sychnant pass a dozen cars were parked having presumably delivered people to walk up Conwy mountain. Next was a lonely walk up and down Maen Esgob where I met Ally and her Bulgarian dog. She was born nearby, moved as a child to Leigh-on-sea Essex but missed County Conwy so much that as soon as she could drive she moved back. Unusual to meet a southern accent, most people I met are from the north west or Midlands.

    A couple of miles further, I arrived at Maen Penddu - a huge stone - where I left the Cambrian Way to begin my descent to Cefn Cae campsite. Expensive at £20 including showers, but high quality facilities block, level neatly mown grass and owner Gwyn sought out a chair and folding table for me when I asked if there was a picnic table I could pitch near. They used to have picnic tables, but guests had set them on fire with their Barbecues! While pitching nearby campers Una and John invited me for tea and busicuits which I accepted as sun was shining. I have met so many friendly people on this trip and this was another example.

    Walked the short 200 yards to the nearby Ty Gwyn Pub for supper and cider. Was honoured to be recognised by barmaid from when I was here in 2022 walking the Cambrian Way south to north.

    9 miles from Conwy to Rowen completed at end of 32nd day of walking and 1st on Cambrian Way.
    Total miles so far : 335
    Average speed : 2.1 mph
    Weather overcast all day, strong wind, intermittent showers.
    Number of people passed : 12
    Objective tomorrow : Foel-Fras    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Approach to Conwy Castle from pedestrian suspension bridge
    Richard and HasanRhôs-on-Sea harbourSt.Trillo Church, Rhôs-on-Sea information boardInside the tiny Holy Well and Chapel of St.Trillo, Rhos-on-SeaTypical example of the rather splendid houses on Rhôs-on-Sea beach frontConsiderable sea defences at Rhôs-on-SeaOn going work to improve sea defences at Rhôs-on-SeaChaps working to improve sea defences at Rhôs-on-SeaBicycle pump and tools on the beach front cycle pathLittle Orme information boardLittle Orme beach. Could almost be in the MediterraneanLittle Orme quarry cliffsRemains of WWII coast artillery practice camp installationFirst view of Llandudno from the eastView to Conwy across Conwy sands from LlandudnoLooking south east along Conway Sands towards Llandudno with little Orme behind to the eastConwy castle, bridges and town from Traeth Melyn beach, LlandudnoConwy castle from Deganwy railway station

    Day 31 Rhôs-on-Sea to Conwy

    29. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Thursday : Up 07:00, away 10:15 after saying goodbye to Hasan.

    Caught bus from Dinarth Hall back to Rhôs-on-Sea harbour to resume from where I finished yesterday. More Wales coast path walking on promenade. The whole promenade from Prestatyn (and perhaps further east?) to Penrhyn Bay is a continual off-road cycle route. Must be a dream to ride on.

    From Penrhyn bay the coastal path passes through a housing estate before ascending the Little Orme. As my first ascent for 2 days this was a minor shock to the system. I was back to Rhian's counting paces before pausing to recover my breath. Little Orme was a pleasant break in the long miles of promenade. The small north facing beach bay looked like it could match any in the Mediterranean on a sunny day.

    After Little Orme the Wales Coast path descended down main road A546 into Llandudno. This road ran along the beach front, which somewhat spoilt this part of the promenade. Roads in previous towns I visited were relatively lightly trafficed, but this was carrying lots of traffic. I stopped at a café on the front for lunch and to charge my device.

    Once in Llandudno spent 90 minutes walking in and out of the outdoor shops looking for Campingaz with Easy-Clic fitting in small cylinder size (CV300). Go Outdoors had fitting and size; Regatta and Mountain Warehouse had right fitting only in large size (CV470); Trespass had neither.

    Walking through the shops put me quite a way north on the Great Ormes head peninsula. I could have walked around Great Ormes head, but from a trip here earlier in the year, I knew this was all road walking. Decided to walk to the west beach, then turn south towards Conwy. At 4 miles this was further than I had in mind, but I was committed. Walking along the soft sand was tiring so I moved further down the beach to hard sand. I eventually made it off the sand onto another promenade where I met Howard of Cardigan whom I had met earlier on the Little Orme. He was walking the whole Wales Coast path. We walked together into Conwy together with another walker Anthony who was day walking a stretch of the coastal path.

    In Conwy I sought out the post office in a Spar shop (open until 8pm) and posted home my inner socks - more weight saved. Then up hill to YHA Conwy where I was greeted by Kate who recommended The Eskine for food and Cider, particularly as the YHA had a school party in who were as noisy as might be expected.

    10 miles from Rhôs-on-Sea to Conwy completed at end of 31st day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 326
    Average speed : 2.2 mph
    Weather sunshine and glorious. A hot day with a westerly breeze on and off.
    Number of people passed : Hundreds
    Objective tomorrow : Rowen    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Stone conveyer from quarry straight to ship loader
    Gwrych Castle, AbergeleTy Grwn bathing housePensarn bea h information boardTower (folly?) on Gwrych estateLlandulas Caravan Park. This seemed all the more civilised than parks in Rhyl. Space, view and quietWales Coastal path nicely tarmaced for cycling west of LlanddulasAfon Dulas river flowing towards the seaI found myself fascinated by this conveyor structureQuarry above the A55 dual carriageway sending its output to a conveyor running beneath the A55Coastal sea defence works east of Colwyn BayCoastal sea defence works east of Colwyn BayConcrete pouring for coastal sea defence works east of Colwyn BayRebar ready for use in Coastal sea defence works east of Colwyn BayFinished cycle/footpath works on Colwyn bay coastal defencePorth Eirias centre, Colwyn BayEntering Llandrillo yn RhôsRhôs on sea coastal defence information board

    Day 30 Towyn to Rhôs-on-Sea

    28. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Wednesday : Up 07:00, away 10:00 ... then got talking to Hasan who had just got up so I did not start walking until 10:45. Woke with an ache at the front of my right leg a couple of inches below my knee. I imagine this was from walking on hard surfaces all yesterday. Caused me to begin walking with a slight limp and a note to self to walk on grass and sand where available. Good news was the £2 JCB socks had worked fine. No stubbed toes and no ache in the sole of my foot.

    Retraced route through Towyn Caravan Parks, crossing railway over footbridge onto the Wales coast path. Coastal path continued alongside the many packed Caravan parks in Towyn, Belgrano, Pensarn and Abergele before opening up with space at Llandduas. I crossed the Afon Dulas river here and immediately afterwards the heavens opened. The first heavy rain I have had on this trip. I sheltered under a railway viaduct in the hope it would cease but to no avail. Eventually I capitulated, donned my full wet weather clothing and carried on. The rain eventually stopped but the temperature remained low so I kept my coat on for the rest of the day.

    Entering Colwyn Bay was uplifting. It had a well maintained air with interesting coastal path art, including markers at various distances commemorating athletic successes e.g. Usain Bolt 100m.

    Colwyn Bay ran into Rhôs-on-sea which had an even more upmarket feel to it. No Caravan parks nor boarding houses, instead smart suburban houses. At the harbour I caught a bus inland to my campsite for today at Dinarth Hall. This was a working farm with cattle and horses and lots of horsey looking people around. I was greeted by Zoë whom I had spoken to by telephone earlier, directed to the facilities and the camping field. Facilities were a bit tired but functional so perfectly reasonable for £10 including showers.

    After pitching and 'fitting out' tent I finished my complementary 33ml shampoo from the Dolphin Inn, Llanymynech today after 13 uses. 2.5ml needed per hair wash for follically challenged people like me! On my return I discovered Hasan from Germany, who had pitched near me yesterday, had arrived and pitched. We walked together to the nearby Queens Head for supper. I learned his parents had brought him from Kurdish Turkey to Germany when he was 6. He spoke German, Kurdish, Turkish, English and a little Spanish. Examplary compared to my smattering of German!

    9 miles from Towyn to Colwyn Bay completed at end of 30th day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 316
    Average speed : 2.1 mph
    Weather overcast with occasional sunshine. A far cooler day than yesterday with a Westerly breeze for much of the day, although lighter than yesterday.
    Number of people passed : Hundreds
    Objective tomorrow : Conwy    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Pont y Ddraig / Dragon's Bridge in Rhyl over Afon Clwyd river lifting mechanism detail
    Sculpture art beside Prestatyn railway stationBroad expanse of walkway as I left Prestatyn on its west sideHundreds of offshore wind turbinesChange in style of sea wallNarrow sea wall path because promenade above was closed for repairsSome of the newly constructed sea defencesHoles dug ready for rocks for improved sea defencesSea defence improvements under constructionClosure signs on promenadeSea defence improvements under constructionTop Sand to the east, deeper material to the west, very neatRocks being carefully placed for sea defenceRocks being loaded onto dumper trucksThe Pavilion theatre Rhyl I have heard mentioned often on radio and TVEntrance to Rhyl harbour with lifting Pont y Ddraig foot/cycle bridgeTide on its way inPacked Caravan park. Is this really a holiday?

    Day 29 Prestatyn to Towyn

    27. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Tuesday : Up 09:00, away 11:00. A late start today because I was tired from yesterday's long walk and it was raining first thing. Once rain stopped packed quickly in case rain restarted then walked across road to the 'Bells of St.Mary's' pub for breakfast before catching bus back to Prestatyn.

    Lots of shops in Prestatyn so stocked up on supplies and lunch. Supplies included a £6 triple pack of socks from TKMaxx badged as 'JCB'. They have padded sole, toe and heel so I will see tomorrow if they are as good as the £17.50 Bridgedale socks.

    Then walked back to end of Offa's Dyke path and turned left onto Wales coast path. This is the third of the 4 left turns I will make on my odyssey, this time westwards.

    The walk along the coast path was all on a concrete promenade sea defence wall. The height of sea defences differed, and around Rhyl there was lots of civil engineering activity to improve the sea defences. Here and in a couple of other places the promenade was closed requiring a walk out to sea or inland. At one point I arrived at the entrance to a works yard as a dumper truck was exiting. I motioned to the driver to carry on. But he insisted I cross first. Made me wonder whether the contractors had been briefed to show maximum courtesy to the locals.

    Although level the whole way, the walk was made hard because I was walking into a strong wind all day and surface was hard underfoot. Half way along I stopped at a café for tea & cake, to charge my device and write my blog.

    Along the way I passed lots of holiday parks with row upon row of static caravans. Caused me to reflect what sort of holiday was it where your accommodation was below a sea wall, so unable to see the sea and with just neighbouring caravans to look at? Prestatyn was definitely a better quality town than Rhyl or Towyn.

    Eventually arrived at Henllys Farm Camping & Touring site in Towyn greeted by Ndav (spelling?). A Welsh name that I have not heard before despite my living 42 years in Cardiff. Large site with huge numbers of facilities and a laundry with seriously professional machines - not something I have seen previously. Camped beside 2 cyclists mates from Australia Steve and Emery, another 2 cyclist Anglo/Russian couple Thomas, Natasha & child and German cyclist Hasan. Joined the Australians Steve & Emery in the pub later. Steve had worked in security in a number of countries and said UK was much better at anti-money laundering than Aus, but the USA were the leaders.

    8 miles from Prestatyn to Towyn completed at end of 29th day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 307
    Average speed : 2.3 mph
    Weather overcast all day with a strong westerly breeze all day.
    Number of people passed : Hundreds
    Objective tomorrow : Llandudno?    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Northern end of Offa's Dyke path
    First ascent out of BodfariLunch at rather upmarket bar and restaurant of White Horse campsite, RhualltHouses above Rhuallt have a fantastic view over Denbighshire countrysideHardest climb of the day was after leaving the road out of Rhuallt to ascend Mynydd y CwmThis track up Mynydd y Cwm was hard on my feet1Face off with Cattle. (Photo taken safely from otherside of a cattle grid. 'Pansy' I hear you say!First view of Prestatyn from Marian FfrithHub of waterwheelHub of waterwheelHub of waterwheelA 'gorilla gardener' has tried to make these flowers look their bestPrestatyn from above quarry on Tan-yr'-AlltNarrow cliff top path on Tan-yr'-AlltAnother view of Prestatyn from Tan-yr'-Allt.Smart residential area from Tan-yr'-AlltFootpath down from Tan-yr'-Allt

    Day 28 Bodfari to Prestatyn

    26. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Monday : Up 07:00, away 09:45.

    Today began again with a steep ascent (of course it did!) up Moel-y-Gaer. Another of the Glwydian hills that I walked on Saturday. I arrived at a crossroads near the top at the same time as a lady driving who looked lost. I paused to see if I could assist with my ?super? map reading skills, but could hear a telephone conversation so imagine she was being directed remotely.

    This part of the route was called Sodom, harsh I thought.

    A couple more miles of pastureland, lots of sheep and occasional cattle - a sign the altitude is reducing. Came across a couple concealed by vegetation sitting on a fallen log. I was startled when their dog barked, it having heard me approach. The husband reckoned there was a pub at the bottom of the hill that appeared on his paper OS map that they had walked past. It was not on my electronic OS map and indeed did not exist. So much for some people's map reading skills! All the while traffic drone was getting gradually louder. Bottom of the hill, a footbridge took me over the source of the traffic noise - the A55 dual carriageway. Main east-west arterial road in north Wales. Amazing how far the noise of fast moving traffic travels.

    Otherside of the A55 was the village of Rhuallt. The pub might not exist, but 1/2 mile off route, the White House caravan/campsite did. This had the smartest campsite bar/restaurant I have seen. I was served by smooth waitress Ceri, who was clearly in charge and successfully upsold me to add a portion of chips to my otherwise starter and pudding order.

    Out of Rhuallt was what Ceri had described as the last big climb before Prestatyn - she was optimistic! It was a mile of ascent up Coed Cwm but certainly not the final ascent. Crossing fields down Marian Cwm before ascending Marian Ffrith I met two 20-30 something chaps from Bristol who had arrived in Prestatyn by train and were walking Offa's Dyke path north-south heading for Bodfair that evening. I left them envious of the days when I could do a Bristol-Prestatyn train journey then walk 12 miles all in one day.

    Shortly after this, I passed the point where I had intended to turn off route to camp at Dyserth, but the mile off route and descent that I would have to ascend tomorrow convinced me to press on the 3 miles to the finish. 3/4 mile further I arrived at the outskirts of Prestatyn. Or more accurately, I arrived above the outskirts of Prestatyn. I was 400 feet / 125 metres above the town on Tan-yr'-Allt, an AONB (Area of outstanding natural beauty). I hoped from here route would be a level / descending path to town but before this, there was more ascent - araah! Some of it quite hairy on a narrow path with a steep drop to the suburb below. Eventually the path did descend placing me in an affluent neighbourhood. I had thought of the north Wales towns as being a dusty shadow of their once booming former selves. (Probably a typical south Wales prejudice of north Wales!). Prestatyn was anything but, it was clearly affluent and had quite a smart town centre. The standard dropped closer to the beach but otherwise I was impressed.

    The bus I was going to take to my campsite east of Prestatyn in Gronant was in 55 minutes, so I pressed on to the coast and the very end of Offa's Dyke path. Part 2 of my Odyssey completed in 20 days (17 of them walking) - hurrah!

    Bus arrived on time and delivered me to campsite in a few minutes at the very late time of 19:50. Wardens had briefed me to call at their 'static' (caravaners parlance for a static caravan) on arrival. I was given a fob to unlock facilities block (first time I have used one of these, a good idea I thought) and directed to camping field. After pitching I repaired to the nearby 'Bells of St.Mary's' for Cider.

    13 miles from Bodfari to Prestatyn completed at end of 28th day of walking and 20th on Offa's Dyke path.
    Total miles so far : 299
    Average speed : 2.1 mph
    Weather : Sunshine and glorious. Another warm day with a frequent Westerly strong breeze for much of the day.
    Number of people passed : 5
    Objective tomorrow : Rhyl    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Tower of St.Stephen's church Bodfari is rather imposing from the Lychgate
    Bodfari Station House is the campsite owner's homeGeneral view of site of predominantly touring Caravans. Mine was the only tentMy pitch illustrating proximity to St.Stephen's. Dinorben Arms is roof apex just over hedgeSt.Stephen's tower and a little of the church from the eastSt.Stephen's church from the north westDinorben ArmsCampsite laundry

    Day 27 day off in Bodfari

    25. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Sunday : Up 07:00. Attended 09:30 Service in Bodfari's village Church - St.Stephen's. Church is beside Dinorben Arms which are both 200 yards from Station House Caravan Park.

    A day of 'admin', as my brother-in-law Peter would say, of laundry, repacking, cleaning & treating boots, writing this blog, selecting accommodation and planning route for tomorrow. I feel a little cheated because the signpost in Llandegla advised 29 miles to Prestatyn. I have since walked 8.5 and 14 miles. 29 - 8.5 - 14 = 6.5, but plotting the route I find I have 12 more miles to go, so an error somewhere.

    Decided that tomorrow, instead of going straight to the Offa's Dyke path finish in Prestatyn, I will camp a few miles short. This will allow me to arrive at the finish on Tuesday morning without the rush of immediately needing to move on to a campsite. Although maps show lots of campsites around Prestatyn, this was partly motivated by the discovery that few take tents.

    1 mile around Bodfari completed on 27th day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 286
    Weather : Sunshine and hot first thing. Overcast, breezy and cool from noon. Rain for 20 minutes around 4pm, then sunny and warm for the rest of the day.
    Objective tomorrow : Dyserth    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Jubilee tower atop Moel Famau
    View towards Ruthin along wide grassy routePleasantly grassed path down from Foel Fenlli to Bwlch Ben ParrasHeather on the hillside looking very colourfulView down to busy Bwlch Pen Barra car parkView west from Bwlch Pen Barra benchesGreat contrast between cultivated and wild fieldsJubilee monument plaqueJubliee tower plaqueCairn atop Moel DywyllView towards LiverpoolCoed Llangwyfan information boardView south back towards Jubilee towerPenycloddiau burial moundPanorama from Penycloddiau burial moundStation House Caravan Park entrance

    Day 26 Wernog Wood to Bodfari

    24. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Saturday : Up 06:15, away 09:10. Rob of Wernog Wood Craft Centre kindly let me use the workshop kitchen again for a cuppa and my porridge, which assisted me to get an early start.

    Retraced a few hundred yards up hill from Wernog Wood through woodland and over a field to minor road where I left Offa's Dyke path yesterday. During short walk along A494 immediately encountered 6-8 walkers. Considerably more than the 3 encountered yesterday. After a few fields began ascent up Foel Fenlli. All the time encountering increasing numbers of walkers.

    From Foel Fenlli descended to large car park at Bwlch Pen Barra. Lots of cars parked here and a great many day trippers enjoying the Clwydian Hills. This explained why I had passed so many walkers earlier. Next ascent was to Moel Famau which is topped with a Jubliee tower built to commemorate the 30-year Jubilee of King George III, aka 'Mad King George'. On this stretch, I must have passed more than a hundred walkers. The term 'tower' is somewhat loose because there is only a base, the actual tower having collapsed after a storm in the 19th century. From up here I saw the Sea for the first time since leaving Sudbury Cliffs in Gloucestershire.

    The next section saw a dramatic reduction in walkers. Just a few to the next peak of Moel Dywyll. I came to realise the Clwydian hills were rather like the Malvern Hills of my home county of Worcestershire. A great draw for local people, particularly at a weekend.

    There followed a number of up and down peaks, as tiring as I imagine the Malverns would be to walk their entire length. It had been windy all day, which moderated what would otherwise have been a hot day. On the final descent to Bodfari, the wind ceased and the temperature soared as a result.

    After a circuitous walk around Bodfari arrived at Station House Caravan park http://www.stationhousecaravanpark.co.uk to be cheerfully greeted by Jan who showed me around. Jan's house was the former railway station. The railway being a victim of Beeching's axe. Particulary welcome were the chairs Jan had moved to next to my pitch and the washing machine, which I immediately made use of.

    After pitching repaired to the nearby, rather upmarket and surprisingly heaving with customers (onsidering the village's distance from major population centres), Dinorben Arms for expensive but particularly excellent food and Cider.

    14 miles from Wernog Wood Craft Centre to Station Caravan site in Bodfari completed at end of 26th day of walking and 19th on Offa's Dyke path.
    Total miles so far : 285
    Average speed : 1.6 mph
    Weather : Sunshine and glorious. Another hot day with very strong SW wind for much of the day which kept temperature cool.
    Number of people passed : Hundreds!
    Objective tomorrow : Day off    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    First signpost that mentions the final destination of Prestatyn
    St Tecla LlandeglaView west over Vale of Clwyd from Moel y GelliAerial mast atop Moel y GelliLlanarmon burial mounds information boardMoel Llanfair buttress looking westDistant Moel Famau in the Clwydian range. My objective tomorrowMoel Famau in the Clwydian range. My objective tomorrowFootpath down to Wernog WoodWernog wood Glamping tentsWernog Wood Craft Centre Work stations for Fine work e.g. JewelleryWernog Wood kitchen areaWernog Wood sofa and dining area

    Day 25 Llandegla to Wernog Wood

    23. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Friday : Up 07:00, away 09:00 the 1/2 mile north to Llandegla Community Café and shop. Went with fellow backpacker Graham, whom I met on the campsite yesterday evening. Graham was walking north - south but sufficiently keen on the chance of a decent breakfast to walk the half mile north. I was not sure what was included in the breakfast offer, but we were pleased to find it was a full British breakfast. After saying our farewells, I chatted to a lady called Helen about peoples motivations for volunteering in the shop and café. She cited being able to get things locally without having to drive long distances to town; making friends with fellow colleagues and building a community spirit. Much to be admired here as well as a well laid out and stocked shop.

    Left shop 10:00 to start walk. Immediately passed my first signpost to Prestatyn - 29 miles. Walked a mile through farmland before first hill - Moel y Waun. On the way passed a field of cows with a delightful tiny Heifer on my track, the opposite side of the fence to the herd. She was so small that she must have squeezed through a gap too small for any other of the herd. She was clearly missing the others because she was pressed up against the gate of the field they were in. I considered opening the gate to let her in but decided against it in case the herd decided to join her instead.

    11:50 passed my first people Doug and Donna from Montreal, Canada. Only passed one other person after these Heather, also from Canada.

    The rest of today was up and down three more hills until I got to my campsite Wernog Wood. This is a craft centre run by Claire and Rob. The site has an enormous building housing 2 workshops, toilets, basins and showers. One of the workshops has a kitchen, sofa and dining area. Down the hill is an outside woodwork area complete with a cover for inclement weather. Accommodation comprises a double bedroom small house called 'The red shed'; 3 Glamping tents, 11 pitches for tents and spaces for small campervans. Claire and Rob had no courses today so kindly made me a cuppa and let me blog and relax in their workshop lounge area. Rob was clearing a large tree so I mucked in lifting to one side the logs that would be good for woodwork or firewood. Afterwards Claire cooked the three of us delicious supper. Much better than the Batchelors Pasta n' sauce I would have had otherwise. https://www.wernogwood.co.uk

    8.5 miles from Llandegla to Wernog Wood completed at end of 25th day of walking and 18th on Offa's Dyke path.
    Total miles so far : 271
    Average speed : 1.4 mph
    Weather overcast with occasional sunny intervals. Short period of gentle rain mid morning. Longer period of light rain late afternoon. Latterly strong SW breeze.
    Number of people passed : 3
    Objective tomorrow : Station House Caravan Park, Bodfari    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Crags beneath Eglwyseg Mountain
    Trevor rocks above road at top of hill after walking up from Wern Isaf campsiteCreigiau EglwysegView west from Creigiau Eglwyseg across Eglwyseg valleyHigh path through Craig ArthurPath at top of Craig Arthur looking towards World's endLarge stone paving between road and Llandegla ForestEntrance to Llandegla Forest over first ladder stile I have encountered on Offa's Dyke pathNicely laid path through Llandegla ForestLlandegla Forest information boardLlyn Rhys farm campsite entrance signLlyn Rhys farm campsite entranceSocks I bought Wednesday in Llangollen that worked perfectly

    Day 25 Llangollen to Llandegla

    22. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Thursday : Up 06:30, away 09:30. Today's walk was one of 3 parts - road and path beneath cliffs; road across 'the tops'; path over heath, Forest & farm land.

    Began with retracing yesterday's steep minor road up from the Wern Isaf farm campsite to the foot of Castell Dinas Bran hill. Rejoined Offa's Dyke path here on the Panorama route I had left yesterday. Continued on this road for 1.5 miles, all the while dominated by towering cliffs on my right/east. Eventually forked right onto a hillside track beneath Eglwyseg Mountain. Soon after this I made a navigational error. I forked right onto a high narrow rocky path. The map indicated I was above Offa's Dyke path so I back tracked and followed the lower path beside a boundary fence. This was a mistake. Low trees, rough uneven ground and nettles made this very hard slow and painful going. After 30 minutes or so 4 walkers passed at speed above me on the higher route I should have stayed on. Others had clearly decided to abandon the lower path because there was a rough route up to the higher path - I took it. Going was far better and faster as a result.

    Some way further on the path forked again. Signs indicated Offa's Dyke path to be the descending route. The map indicated the ascending path would arrive at the same road loosing less height. Remembering my school games master Mr Jones adage "Never give up height if you can avoid it" I took the higher path. Again the map mislead me because my path increasingly diverged further and further east. Via a circular route that added 1/2 a mile it did eventually meet the road but it had done this with no loss of height so was probably worth it. I was passed by a pair of cyclists here on electric assist mountain bikes. They were pedalling furiously and going quite a pace despite the rough terrain.

    1/2 a mile of minor road walking on top of this wilderness felt like the end of the world. I was only passed by one motorcycle.

    Final part of walk started over heath. This was laid neatly with stone flagstones. I imagine it would be boggy early in the year. Soon after starting this section I was passed by two naked walkers, surreal! Sadly both 'real ale' type chaps not attractive ladies! Next was Llandegla forest, then a couple of fields got me to the A525. From here it was a short walk to Llyn Rhys farm campsite. Good facilities for £11 including showers which had the novel idea of a large plastic box to put clothes in to keep dry while showering. Sadly no picnic bench to pitch beside.

    Local pub The Crown closed in Dec 2019 but there was a community shop and café 1/2 a mile away that I walked to arriving 16:15. The café closed at 15:30 but the shop was still open so I stocked up.

    12.5 miles from Llangollen to Llandegla completed at end of 25th day of walking and 17th on Offa's Dyke path.
    Total miles so far : 262.5
    Average speed : 1.6 mph
    Weather : Sunshine and glorious. Another hot day.
    Number of people passed : 14 (2 on bikes, 2 naked! ... both chaps sadly)
    Objective tomorrow : Uncertain!    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Pontcysyllte aquaduct
    Southern most arch of Pontcysyllte aquaduct from the westSouthern most arch of Pontcysyllte aquaduct from the eastPontcysyllte aquaduct from the eastPontcysyllte aquaduct commemorative plaqueLooking north along the top of the aquaductBoats in Trevor basinBoats in Trevor basin from the foot bridge. Aquaduct is the left exitImpressed to see a ramp suitable for wheelchairs from bridge over eastern arm of Llangollen canalOffa's Dyke path leaves Llangollen canal via this bridgeTunnel under disused railway lineWell maintained woodland pathsInteresting moss covered wall alongside pathLlangollen from the Panorama walkCastell Dinas BranCastell Dinas Bran information boardLlangollen from Castell Dinas Bran. Note the huge marquee for the Eisteddfod next monthTrevor Rocks quarry from Castell Dinas BranFoels passed on walk from Castell Dinas Bran to Wern Isaf farm campsite1My sewing repair to where inner tent tensioner attaches to flysheet

    Day 24 Froncysyllte to Llangollen

    21. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Wednesday - the longest day of the year : Up 06:30, away 08:10 to walk the mile into Llangollen. Caught bus to Froncysyllte to resume walk from where I finished yesterday. Offa's Dyke path passes near Wern Isaf farm campsite, so I left tent setup to pack up as I pass on way back. This meant I avoided having to carry full rucksack. Having mooched around Trevor Canal basin north of the Pontcysyllte aquaduct, on the walk back to the campsite I decided to stay another night to explore Llangollen and shorten the next section of the walk.

    My walk began along the Canal then ascended the hillside through woodland. Eventually reaching a road along the foot of an enormous quarry labelled on the map as 'Panorama walk' then 'Trevor rocks'.

    I left Offa's Dyke path here to walk up to Castell Dinas Bran. This is the remains of a local castle of some note built in the 13th century. It lasted 2 decades before being sacked. From here it was a short walk down hill to the campsite.

    After charing device and doing laundry, I walked into town. Bought new thin socks but with more padding than the inners I had been using and posted my heavy outer socks home saving 303gm. Also picked up some orange thread to repair tent from 'Hand made by Nana's' haberdashery shop. Yesterday I had foolishly tugged at the tensioner that pulls the end of the inner towards the fly sheet in order to get more headroom when lying down. It had been glued into a wrap of fly sheet fabric but my tugging meant it no longer was! I repaired it yesterday with a clamp that I had bought years ago for just such an equipment failure, which worked a treat. Back at camp today I think I made rather a good job of sewing a repair. Judge for yourself from the photograph.

    Walked the mile down hill into Llangollen for supper and Cider in Gales wine bar, where I was yesterday. Great food again.

    4 miles from Froncysyllte to Llangollen completed at end of 24th day of walking and 16th on Offa's Dyke path. Plus 6 miles walking to, from & around Llangollen and Castell Dinas Bran.
    Total miles so far : 250
    Average speed : 1.6 ... I admit it, I was dawdling around town.
    Weather : Sunshine and glorious. Another hot day with occasional breeze.
    Number of people passed : 5
    Objective tomorrow : Pen-y-Stryt    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    River Dee and Llangollen heritage railway from river bridge
    View from the path looking West over PowysOld racecourse Oswestry. Beautifully mown, looks perfect for wild campingSpotted this sign on North side of Old Racecourse common. Good job I didn't wild campSevern Trent weather monitoring station. Why are they interested in recording the weather, I wonder?More lime kilns. These are at CraignantOn top of Offa's Dyke between Craignant and Bronygarth.Offa's Dyke information boardBattle of Crogen plaqueChirk castle. Offa's Dyke path passes about a mile to the west of the castleRiver Dee from Llangollen Bridge looking downstream/ eastLlangollen from the northWern Isaf campsite entranceWern Isaf caravans fieldMy pitch in Wern Isaf campsite. Field slopes but I managed to pitch on the level part

    Day 23 Trefonen to Froncysyllte

    20. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Tuesday : Up 06:30, breakfast at nicest B&B I have ever been in, then kindly driven by my host to Trefonen, started walking 08:58.

    As I crossed fields out of Trefonen, I was caught up by former Royal Engineer Colin from Worcester and his wife Barbara from Germany. They had met when he was serving in BAOR (British army on the Rhine). We began the hard ascent together up to old racecourse common. Colin and Barbara soon went on ahead of me as I could not keep up. They were carrying day packs and had 15 miles to walk. Considerably more than my 10.

    On the common asked local Alan if he thought residents would object to wild camping on the common. He didn't see any objection. Some time later, as I was exiting the common on the north side, I spotted a 'no camping' sign. Anyone entering from the south side, as I did, would have no idea this sign existed. I caught up with Colin and Barbara here where they were resting on a bench.

    3/4 mile of road to Carreg-y-Big farm, which appreared on Google maps as a campsite but with little information. I met the owner who told me they had just bought it, were refurbishing it, and anticipated opening in Autumn 2023. I updated Google Maps with this information.

    After a couple of miles of ascent and descent over Selattyn Hill passed through hamlet of Craignant, up through a quarry, then onto the Dyke proper. I always feel a little improper being atop the Dyke knowing how archaeologicly important it is as the longest continuous structure in Europe.

    Over a road and into a field with Cows! - bullocks I think. Naturally they were right across my path giving me 'the stare', but I was brave and pressed on regardless. Steep descent down a concrete path with steps to hamlet of Bronygarth where I was hoping for a bench to sit on for lunch, but nothing doing. Up the north side of the Afon Ceiriog river valley I found a suitable spot to stop for lunch on the hillside.

    Chirk castle was visible a short distance east. As it was not on Offa's Dyke, I thought it was a shame the Offa's Dyke path did not go through the castle grounds. Likewise Montgomery and Welshpool had both been a short distance off route and perhaps could have been included.

    On the next short section of road called Tyn-y-groes I met hundreds of Frogs the size of my fingernail. Until they starting moving I had not noticed them. Once I had spotted them, I walked carefully for hundreds of yards to avoid stepping on them. A short while later, I arrived at the A5 London - Holyhead road that adds a sea journey to connect to Dublin. I had intended to finish the day here and catch a bus to Llangollen near my campsite. I was early for the bus, so pressed on to walk the next section of Offa's Dyke path along the Llangollen Canal towpath to Froncysyllte. This shortened tomorrow's walk and allowed me to still catch the same number 64 bus to Llangollen at a stop further to the west.

    Route to Wern Isaf campsite was through Llangollen town. It had lots of interesting looking shops, many of which were closed as I had arrived late afternoon. The walk up to the campsite was a step mile out of town. Passed Colin and Barbara coming down the hill having completed their 15 miles. I was welcomed by friendly Clare to a nice farm site with excellent facilities block including laundry machines (£6). Camping fee £13, showers 20p.

    Walked into town for supper and Ciders at Gales Wine bar on Bridge Street.

    14 miles from Trefonen to Froncysyllte completed at end of 23rd day of walking and 15th on Offa's Dyke path.
    Total miles so far : 240
    Average speed : 1.8 mph
    Weather rain at first, brightening later. Short period of light rain mid afternoon then sunshine for the remainder of the day.
    Number of people passed : 10
    Objective tomorrow : Pen-y-Stryt    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Swans and their Signets nesting on vegetation on the Montgomery canal
    Montgomery Canal bridge 99 at southern point where Offa's Dyke path joins canalTrees growing all the way across Montgomery CanalBridge 98 on Montgomery CanalCrane attached to canalside houseAquaduct over river VyrnwyMontgomery Canal lockTree hide. Is it to watch birds on the stand in the river?Charles Darwin was hereLlanymynech quarries information boardTenat valley railway to be restoredPanoramic view over NantmawrView over Nantmawr and beyond from hillside benchView from Moelydd Uchaf over ShopshireTree carving in Trefonen

    Day 22 Llanymynech to Trefonen

    19. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Monday : Up at 07:00, breakfast at Bradford Arms 08:00, 08:39 Bus back to Rhos where I finished on Saturday, started walking 08:58.

    Bradford Arms had been very helpful with meals while I stayed 100 yards away in the (cheaper) Dolphin Inn. Over the 2 days I bought 2 breakfasts, 2 packed lunches, 1 evening meal and a few Ciders. Proprietor Bob told me the other pub in the village - The Cross Keys - also does limited food so he gets customers from them as well.

    Walk began across level pasture fields. Some in crop, some with sheep. Passed a farm with a dozen or so quite tall Rams. Chatted to the farmer who told me they were Blue faced Leicesters. She hoped to get a good price for them at market in a few weeks.

    Next a little road walking through Four Crosses village where I was able buy a pack of 10 porridge sachets, which will keep me in breakfasts for a few weeks, interleaved with commercial breakfasts where I can find them.

    Walk then moved onto Montgomery Canal tow path. Made swift progress along here. Passed over 2 impressive aquaducts crossing the river Vyrnwy / Afon Efyrnwy. This section of the canal was in water but not navigable. Vegetation was thick on the banks, in some places stretching right across. The vegetation was flattened in a number of places, at one point by a pair of Swans and their Signets. A number of trees also completely spanned it. Silt appeared to make the depth 12 - 18 inches. Unsure of a Canal boat's draft, but I imagine this is not enough.

    Eventually I arrived at the Llanymynech visitor centre, where I had spent a few hours yesterday. At this point the path turned up hill through the Llanymynech Quarry workings then, at the top, around the Llanymynech Golf course. This part of the path was well maintained with a surface of tree chippings, presumably maintained by the Golf course. Then down hill to village of Porth-y-waen where I crossed a disused railway track.

    A mile further through the village of Nantmawr then a hard ascent up Moelydd. At the top was a bench with a splendid view west across Powys. I was tempted to use the bench for lunch, but it was too hot in full Sun, so I carried on.

    A little more ascent got me to the top of the grassy Moelydd Uchaf. No trees allowed a 360 degree view. View over Shropshire was particularly interesting, with various hills appearing out of the otherwise flat landscape. I wished I had my friend Rita's App to identify the hills, but I have forgotten what it is called.

    Last section was downhill to the village of Trefonen. Google Maps had told me I could catch a bus from here to Oswestry to Helen's friend's B&B. But when it arrived it was a school bus, not a 'Service bus' as the driver shouted. 'Service bus' is not a term I had heard before, but I presume it means one cannot buy a fare. Luckily, a couple who I had asked which direction to Oswestry (so I knew which side of the road to wait for bus) had said, "We are going to Oswestry later. If you are still here when we get back, we will give you a lift". I was and they did!

    In Oswestry town centre bought a few supplies including a pack of needles from a haberdashery to get out a splinter that had been niggling me for days. Something else I recommend we all have in our first aid kits. I was hoping to buy some thin socks with a little padding, as the soles of my feet have been aching at the end of the days' walking, but town had no outdoors shop A bank clerk closing his Bank who I stopped to ask said "Oswestry is not that sort of town". Unclear what he meant?

    15 minutes walk out of town centre I arrived at Gayle and Michael's B&B 'Nant Gloyw' in an extended suburban house. Gayle said they had converted their children's bedrooms after they left home and it had been a great success. The room standard was far better than the 2 pubs I had just stayed in. Large bedroom and en suite, smart decorations and furnishings, a leather armchair, huge choice of Teas / Chocolate / Coffees, pot of chocolate treats, bedside notepad & pencil, toiletries etc. If you are ever needing somewhere to stay in Oswestry I recommend it https://www.nantgloyw.co.uk

    10 miles from Rhos to Trefonen completed at end of 22nd day of walking and 14th on Offa's Dyke path.
    Total miles so far : 226
    Average speed : 2.0 mph
    Weather began cool with some sunshine and half cloud cover. Glorious by mid morning and a welcome few degrees cooler than recent days. High teens rather than low 20s. Thunder storms forecast 2-4pm but thankfully never materialised. Just a few minutes of welcome cooling light rain. Pleased to have my 'Beau Geste' hat, bought by my friend Dave, to keep the rain from getting in my hearing aids.
    Number of people passed : 7
    Objective tomorrow : Froncysyllte    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    The enormous Hoffmann lime kiln
    Hoffmann kiln information boardKiln chimneyTramway truck full of limestoneTally house information boardStables for horses, donkeys pulling tramway trucksVolunteer disembarking from the demo bargeLlanymynech visitor centre on Montgomery CanalEngland side of Llanymynech bridge over Montgomery CanalWales side of Llanymynech bridge over Montgomery Canal

    Day 21 day off in Llanymynech

    18. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Sunday : Great sleep in The Dolphin Inn. Landlord John kindly put on a laundry load for me and allowed me to peg it out on the line in the yard beside the pub. I was keen to get it drying in the glorious weather before the forecast thunder storms this afternoon. Walked to the nearby Bradford Arms for breakfast and to collect a packed lunch.

    11:00 Church Service at nearby St.Agatha's. I had texted Vicar last night to verify service times as boards outside are often out of date. This one displayed 09:00 so good job I checked.

    After getting in dry laundry, I walked 5 minutes to Llanymynech Lime kilns. An absolutely fascinating museum. I had no idea there had been so much industry here including the largest intact Hoffmann ring kiln in the UK.

    Then visited the nearby canal wharf. A group of volunteers had created a visitor centre and museum from a canal building and were operating a barge the short distance along the navigable section of the Montgomery Canal. I stopped with them for ages learning that much of the canal was navigable and what was not was in water. There was only a short dry section of 2 miles. They are hopeful the whole Canal will be navigable in the next decade or so. The demo boat engine would not start so the trip did not happen but I was able to assist moving the boat to its overnight mooring and was shown the archived museum collection that was not on display to the public.

    Quirk of Llanymynech village is that west of the main street is in Powys and the east is in Shropshire. So my pub, the shop and café are in Wales. The two other pubs, the church, the Lime kiln museum and Canal wharf are in England - crazy!

    2 miles around Llanymynech completed at end of 21st day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 216
    Weather : Sunshine and glorious until 5pm, then rain for an hour but not the forecast Thunder storm. Overcast for the rest of the evening but remained warm.
    Objective tomorrow : Trefonen    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Beautiful Buttington bridge over the river Severn
    Impressed by the way this tree is hanging onto the bank despite its roots being exposedMuch of the route up Long mountain is on forest tracks like thisI was left wondering why did the forestry operators leave these 3 trees?This appears to be a Dam located where the OS map indicates Offa's pool half way up Long MountainWelshpool from Long MountainBeacon ring information boardLevel crossing just North of Welshpool near Buttington BridgeBreidden hill, Old Mills Hill & Moel y Golfa looking east from Offa's Dyke pathRiver SevernLifting bridge on Montgomery Canal. User operated!Sunken wreak on Montgomery CanalPool Quay lock on Montgomery CanalQuarry in side of Breidden HillBeautifully mown section of path on Severn flood defence dykeClosed flood control gates in Severn dyke. Presumably opened in dire situations to flood fieldsThe Dolphin Inn, my billet for Saturday and Sunday nights

    Day 20 Severn Caravan to Llanymynech

    17. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Saturday: Up 07:00, away at 09:00 by which time it was gently raining.

    Walk began with a gentle continuous ascent of 1.5 miles to return to where I left Offa's Dyke path yesterday. Then an ascent of 255 metres / 840 feet up Long mountain. I was back to using my friend Rhian's suggestion of counting a number of paces, (100 in my case) then stopping until recoverd. Apparently this stops something going somewhere - lactic acid to muscles I think, but I may have misremembered. To be fair the climb was a continual gentle ascent on generally reaonable surface so I couldn't complain.

    At the top of Long Mountain is the site of an ancient fort called 'The Beacon ring'. At the Queen's Jubilee it was planted with different coloured trees to depict EIIR. A nice touch.

    After this was a 2 mile downhill to Buttington for excellent lunch at The Green Dragon. A 'happening' place with a lively atmosphere. Across the Severn for a 3/4 mile walk alongside the river then up onto the Montgomery Canal towpath for 3/4 of a mile to arrive at Pool Quay. I was going to stop here for the night to camp in the garden of The Powis Arms, but it was only 16:15 and I reckoned I could get further and spend my Sunday day off somewhere with more 'action'. So I walked another 5 miles along the top of the Severn flood defence embankment to the hamlet of Rhos, 1/2 mile south of the village of Four Crosses. From here I caught a bus to the village of Llanymynech. I booked 2 nights in The Dolphin Inn because thunder storms were forecast. A bargain at £45 / night although without breakfast.

    Splendidly friendly staff at The Dolphin Inn, good food and Inch's Cider.

    17 miles from Severn Caravan Park to Rhos completed at end of 20th day of walking and 13th on Offa's Dyke path.
    Total miles so far : 214
    Average speed : 1.9 mph
    Weather : Overcast and grey, with rain 09:00 - 10:00. Sunshine and glorious from 13:00. A very hot afternoon with only occasional breeze.
    Number of people passed : 10
    Objective tomorrow: Day off!    Læs mere

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  • RickSailsWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWayRejsende
    Weir on the river Severn which runs past the campsite
    1930's? Petrol pump at BromptonPen-y-bryn HallFields parched after weeks of Sun and no rainCows vs Richard stand offMontgomery across a few fieldsRiver Severn from campsiteHuge tree on the campsite. Perhaps a giant redwood?Lots of static caravans on the campsiteThe Square and Compass in Cilcewydd - my hostelry for the evening

    Day 19 Mellington Hall to Welshpool

    16. juni 2023, Wales ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Friday - up 06:00, 08:30 breakfast in Mellington Hall, away at 09:45.

    I bought new boots a few weeks before starting my walk. They were the same make, model and size I had had twice before. Despite them being the same size, wearing them around my house for days and taking them on a couple of hikes my big toes had been starting to hit the front of the Boots. I had put up with it for days but discomfort was starting to get to me. I was concerned that if I continued for another next 5 weeks, I might cause long term damage. My Podiatrist friend Maureen had made suggestions last night. This morning's route passed a bus stop a mile from Mellington Hall. As I pondered overnight I resolved that, if they still ached by the bus stop, I would return to my Boot and hiking kit vendor, Up and Under in Cardiff for a discussion. At breakfast in Mellington Hall, Howard and Elaine repeated Maureen's suggestion of using just inner socks. (I use inners and outers). We were joined for breakfast by locals and farming veterans Tony and Silvia who suggested sheep's wool in the toe was a good cushion. I tried both these ideas and they worked! The sheeps wool needed to be replaced after a couple of hours after being compressed but otherwise it worked a treat. Walk continues!

    Today was sooo much easier than yesterday. None of the previous days' up and down. A level, and almost straight, walk across the Vale of Montgomery. I had planned to stay at Rhyd-y-Groes campsite (https://www.rhyd-y-groes.co.uk) about a mile east of the route, but was going so quickly I walked right past the turn off to it.

    As lunchtime approached I declined the mile walk off route west to Montgomery instead planned on stopping at the pub in Forden illustrated on the OS Map. When I arrived, I was dismayed to discover it was closed until 5pm, having been turned into an Indian restaurant.

    Instead I then plotted a route 1/2 mile further on Offa's Dyke path then across fields to the Severn Caravan site (https://severncaravans.co.uk). As so often seems to happen, the footpath indicated on the OS map did not exist so I had to back track into Forden village. Another footpath indicted on the OS Map in Forden village, was blocked half way along, so I ended up returning to the Indian restuarant, 2 miles of diversion for nought.

    Plumped instead for the direct route along the A490, which passed quickly and took me passed the Square and Compass pub in Cilcewydd allowing me to it recce for an evening meal.

    A few moments after I entered the Severn Caravan site owner Rachael arrived with her daughter Chloe, having picked her up from school. She directed me to facilties. No laundry but decent facilities, although showers were fixed height & temperature, poor flow, push button, only one hook, no seat and no protection from spray for clothes. However only £8.

    11 miles from Mellington Hall to Severn Caravan Park near Welshpool completed at end of 19th day of walking and 12th on Offa's Dyke path.
    Total miles so far : 197
    Average speed : 2.6
    Weather : Sunshine and glorious. Another hot day with just the occasional southery breeze.
    Number of people passed : 4
    Objective tomorrow: Pool Quay    Læs mere

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