Day 49.5 Dinas Mawddwy to home
July 3 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Spent a sunny morning at campsite laying out clothes to dry. Fortunately I had a bench beside my pitch to use. Clothes had dried by the afternoon but Boots were still wet from yesterday's 'dip' in a stream.
Mid morning I walked over the road to the friendly staffed cafe in Meirion mill for late breakfast and device charging. Checking the weather discovered next 5 days forecast to be foggy and rainy in Dinas Mawddwy. No point walking if I cannot see anything so checked buses home. Discovered there are only 2 scheduled buses daily out of Dinas Mawddwy (and 3 more if telephoned 2 hours in advance to ask them to run). Decided to take the 16:07 out of Dinas to get me home 22:37. I shall leave the Mynydd y Cemmaes objective for another day when the forecast is improved.Read more
Day 49 Bwlch Llyn Bach to Dinas Mawddwy
July 2 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Thursday: Up 06:40 away 10:00
Late start today. I had to wait for the campside office to open to collect my Power bank that they had charged overnight. Also to wait for the Cader Idris Outdoor Gear shop to open at 10am to buy a pair of thick socks because I had left my second pair at home.
Nice weather today. Sunny intervals in the morning, sunny all afternoon with a constant breeze making for a pleasant walking temperature.
This was a hard day. I had estimated 7 hours. It took 9.5. Obstacles that slowed me down were steep descents from Waun-oer and down to Bwlch Siglen through shoulder high Ferns (50 minutes); long ascents up Cribin Fawr, Craig Portas and especially Foel Dinas which was through thick undergrowth because I was unable to find the path - which of course was very clear once at the top; route across Foel Dinas poorly defined through billberry bushes and bog.
The walk down the slope of Craig Maesglase was well defined and gentle and lulled me into complancy. When crossing the stream at the bottom I fell in ... twice! It must have been 2-3 feet deep. As I stood to extracate myself, I slipped on the shiny bottom and fell in a second time. Boots, shorts, half of shirt and half of pack were wet. Fortunately the sun and breeze helped to dry them, with shirt dry by time I got to the campsite.
Reaching Dinas Mawddwy marked my completion of the northern section of the Cambrian Way. Central section is next.
Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
06:40 Up
10:00 left campsite
11:02 Caught T2 bus back to where I left Cambrian Way yesterday
11:11 Bus stopped, began hiking
12:45 Ridge line fence atop Mynydd Ceiswyn
13:30 Lowest point on Mynydd Ceiswyn ridge
14:08 Waun-oer 670m trig point
14:57 Stile atop Cribin Fawr
15:25 Stile at SH801144
15:37 Craig Portas summit
15:45 Lunch stop on Craig Portas bwlch
16:05 Restarted hiking
17:40 Craig Maesglas waterfall where I fell in the stream
18:35 Through gate into Forestry commision
19:15 Foel Dinas summit
20:45 Arrived Celyn Brithion Caravan & Camping Site
10 miles with 3138' of ascent from Bwlch Llyn Bach to Dinas Mawddwy completed at end of 49th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 457
Miles in 2026 : 47
Weather : Morning Sunny intervals, late afternoon glorious sunshine, strong breeze for most of the day
Number of people passed : Zero
Objective tomorrow : Mynydd y CemmaesRead more
Day 49c Cribin Fawr, Craig Portas, Maesglase
July 2 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Thursday: Photographs as I progressed further east along the ridge.
Day 49b ascent to Waun-oer
July 2 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Thursday: A mile along the ridge reached the 607m summit of Waun-oer. A few photographs along the way.
Day 49a Leaving Bwlch Llyn Bach
July 2 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Thursday: A few photographs from my ascent up from my start point at Bwlch Llyn Bach to the ridge I would hike along for the day, which I gained between Mynydd y Waun and Mynydd Ceiswyn.
Day 48 Pant y Cae to Bwlch Llyn Bach
July 1 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Wednesday: Up 05:30 away 07:50
Retired 20:30 last night so up very early this morning as a result. Early morning forecast was rain from 07:00 so I got a move on striking and packing camp. Even though I was up before my neighbours, the DoE party of 7 chaps from Bromsgrove school, they were ready to leave before me. I need to work on packing quicker.
Start was a straightforward, but steep, walk up the road to Llynnau Cregennen / Cregennen lakes. Then a very hard hike straight up to the ridge that leads up to Cadiar Idris. Surface was hard, initially a lot of bog, then heavy undergrowth including gorse and billberry. This 2.7 miles took 2:15.
Once on the ridge I was in cloud for much of the day. Only passed by 3 people until I gained the Pony path when the numbers of people increased significantly. Was pleasantly surprised that I was keeping pace with a party of 5 children doing DoE. Chatted to them a few times as we passed each other. Discovered they were also from a school in Bromsgrove, like the chaps camped near ro me this morning.
Top of Cadair was able to perform service as a photographer of a party of 5.
Route down via Mynydd Moel was straightforward and uneventful until I got to the final descent towards Mynydd Gwerngaig. This was an extremely steep descent down a scree covered slope. The Cambrian Way guide had this as one of two routes feom the ridge to bwlch. This is definitely one to keep for ascent. The other route would have been better for descent.
I had been planning to walk the 2 miles down to Minfford but I arrived at the Bwlch about 10 minutes before the bus to Dolgellau. So instead I decided to catch the bus to Dolgellau where there is a campsite I wanted to try and access to a number of pubs. One of which I used to write this blog - Y Meirionnydd.
The Tal-y-Fron campsite on the east edge of town proved to be exceptional. Beautifully mown terraced pitches, laundry, WiFi & smart showers included for £16.
Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
05:30 up
07:50 began walking
10:05 Ridge attained between Craig-y-llyn and Craig-las
11:05 lunch stop
11:30 Pony path attained
13:00 Cadiar Idris summit attained
13:50 Mynydd Moel attained
16:36 Bwlych Llyn Bach attained
16:50 Boarded T2 bus
17:00 Arrived Dolgellau
17:30 Arrived Tal y Fron campsite
9.3 miles with 3290' of ascent from Pant y Cae campsite to Bwlch Llyn Bach completed at end of 48th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 447
Miles in 2026 : 37
Weather : overcast for most of the day with occasional sunny intervals
Number of people passed : 29
Objective tomorrow : Dinas MawddwyRead more
Day 47 Barmouth to Pant Y Cae campsite
June 30 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Tuesday: Up 06:00 away 07:20
Resuming my walk today after 14 days waiting for weather to improve. Having first been too wet, then too hot with highs of 38C. Now it is goldilocks weather, just right.
After filling all 4 water bottles I weighed my Rucksack before leaving. I was astonished to find it weighed 19Kg. Considerably more than the 15Kg I had calculated.
07:45 a few minutes walk from home caught the first of five buses. Arrived Barmouth 15:25. After being sunny most of the day, light rain had started 14:15 in Machynlleth. I was raining heavily by the time I arrived in Barmouth. So with all my rain gear on I walked up to the point where I had left the Cambrian Way a fortnight ago. From here I followed its route down to the Barmouth viaduct. I crossed the viaduct passing only 11 people. The fewest I have encountered. Rain eased as I was crossing. It had stopped before I got all the way across and the sun was breaking through.
I left the Triath Mawddach / Mawddach trail to follow the Cambrian Way SSE to Arthog on the A493. Across the road then a steep walk up the path alongside the Afon Arthog. At the Arthog waterfalls I walked left through a gate onto the access track to Pant Phylip farm. The owner of Pant Phylip farm has kindly allowed access along this track. Turning left along the track for 100 yards, through another gate took me onto the road leading to my campsite at Pant y Cae farm.
Peter and Enys of Pant y Cae farm where very welcoming. Pant y Cae is a working farm with 4 Land Rovers and a Barn full of equipment. Facilities comprised 2 wooden sheds with a shower (£1), 2 toilets & basins and kitchen sink all for a reasonable £10. Much of the site is sloping, but a did find a level patch. Pegs went in about half way before being stopped by stones.
4.2 miles with 870' of ascent from Barmouth to Pant y Cae completed at end of 47th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 438
Miles in 2026 : 28
Weather : sunny and warm most of the day. Rain 14:15 - 16:00; then sunny intervals
Number of people passed : 25
Objective tomorrow : Over Cadiar Idris to Cwmrhwyddfor campsite in Minffordd.Read more
Day 46 Llyn Hywel to Barmouth
June 16 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Tuesday: Up 06:00 away 11:38
Foggy morning and forecast not encouraging so decided to walk up and down Rhinog Fach lightly loaded leaving pitch setup. Outline plan was to abandon walk to Barmouth, instead walking to the cost to get bus home.
Walk to foot of Rhinog Fach involved walking along north edge of Llyn Hywel over lakeside large boulders. Variously being inches then metres above the lake. Quite a hazardous 0.25 mile route that took me 25 minutes this first time.
Low visibility and strong SW wind on the way down from Rhinog Fach persuaded me that walk to Barmouth should probably be abandoned.
Once back at pitch began making breakfast at which point the fog cleared, the wind abated, the sun came out and walk to Barmouth seemed back on. Then neighbour Lotta appeared from over the ridge and, after a short chat, said she was walking to Barmouth, which settled it for me. Original objective back on!
After striking camp first challenge was the lakeside boulder field. This 3rd crossing only took 17 minutes. Very pleased with this considering I was now carrying 15Kg. Up to the Bwlch (saddle), right / south a short walk across grass, then a steep climb up Y Llethr up loose stone, scree and the occasional solid rock. This was definitely the most hazardous section of the day. One that, a few years ago, I fell down and rolled a few times before stopping. It hurt! Half way up, when stopped for a snack, the only lone hiker I saw all day appeared from behind with a hearty "Good morning" that startled me somewhat.
Arrived on grassy top of Y Llethr without incident then a few miles of slight ups and downs over grass and rock surface to a 'pull' up Diffwys. Just after Diffwys surface changed to all grass. Here I thought I heard voices. I have found I often do but it turns out to a particular creak of my kit, or a bird song or a sheep just over a rise or some such but this time it was definitely voices. Turned put to a party of about 20 school children, presumably on Duke of Edinburgh (DoE) scheme.
Next few miles over grass with the occasional bog passed without much interest except the occasional ladder stile, a few wearing ascents, the cloud becoming thicker and rain seeming more likely. I was becoming quite tired now, slowing a great deal on the ascents and questioning why I was doing this!
Final couple of miles down towards Barmouth rain started. Here I made 3 navigational errors requiring retracing steps. I could see that others had made the same second error as I had because a large number of stones had been pulled of the top of a wall at SH 62178 17550 / 52.73797, -4.04283. Back tracking up hill along the wall I found an unchained gate at SH 62230 17533 / 52.73784, -4.04205 which turned out to be the correct wall crossing.
From here it was a direct straight line across grass downhill, sometimes steeply, to outskirts of Barmouth. Then a ⅓ of a mile on road to Stuart's house where I arrived 20:30. Stuart drove us into town where were too late for any of the restaurants but we did manage some chips, pie and potato scallops from the Carousal café.
Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
06:00 up
06:57 began walking
07:22 began ascent from NE Llyn Hywel
07:30 Bwlch Llyn Hywel
08:09 Rhinog Fach attainted in fog
09:05 Bwlch Llyn Hywel
09:14 NE Llyn Hywel attained
09:43 back at Llyn Hywel pitch
11:16 Packing finished
11:38 left pitch area
11:55 NE corner of Llyn Hywel
12:02 Bwlych Llyn Hywel
13:41 Y LLethr attained
15:25 raise immediately north of Diffwys
15:58 Diffwys attained.
17:52 Bwlch y Rhiwgyr attained
18:45 passed Bwlch Cwmmaria ladder stile
19:00 461m Trig point attained
20:30 Arrived Stuart's house
10.6 miles with 2625' of ascent from Llyn Hywel to Rhinog Fach completed at end of 46th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 434
Miles in 2026 : 24
Weather : foggy morning, then sunnny for about an hour, then hazy sun, later low cloud, rain for final hour
Number of people passed : 2, plus a party of about 20 children, presumably doing Duke of Edinburgh (DoE)
Objective tomorrow : Go home to dry outRead more
Day 45 Llyn Du to Llyn Hywel
June 15 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Monday: Up 07:36 away 11:30
Rain during the small hours but glorious when I got up. Tent was dry already and ground sheet was dry. Glad to learn I had suceeded in picking a dry spot.
Very lazy start because I was wearied from yesterday's long hike. Much shorter one today with 2 peaks as the objective and a short distance betwen them. A few hikers passed my pitch and stopped for a chat.
Once away my first obstacle was a tranverse of a bolder field along the north edge of Llyn Du (Black lake). It was then a simple job to follow the well worn path westwards to a wall then a left / SSW turn to follow the wall a few 100 yds up the hillside to a left / east turn onto a footpath. The OS map suggested to follow the wall further up the hillside to a left / east turn. An Australian couple I had met had done this. But they had had to return because they had been unable to find the left turn. I was following Dave Taylor's directions which were spot on.
At the top of Rhinog Fawr it was quite breezy so I didn't linger. The descent was straightforward, following Dave's directions and referencing the map which aligned. At the bottom there is a wall to cross. Options are crawl through a hole or climb over where the north end meets a cliff face. On my previous visits I have crawled through the hole but this time I climbed over. Fortunately without incident. When I first climbed Rhinog Fawr on my own on my first visit some years ago, I missed understood the need to cross this wall and ended up climbing over boulders and cliffs with the result I took hours to get to the summit.
Once at the bottom, at Bwlch Dwrs Ardudwy, I turned right / west. The path here spits a number of times. The higher path seemed generally the drier one. However, there was no avoiding the bog at the point where I had to turn left / south to a ladder stile at the bottom of Cwm Hosan. 77 minutes later, after a hard ascent, I reached Llyn Hywel (Hywel lake).
I pitched and while making supper met Lotta from Denmark who appeared to fill her water container from the ridge behind (west) of me. We had a pleasant chat surrounded by Midges which she said were not around her pitch. Note to self, if there is little breeze, perhaps avoid pitching lakeside.
As I was clearing up low clouds rolled in. Within a few minutes the lake was obscured, with visibility 30 yards. This put paid to my proposed attempt to ascend Rhinog Fach after supper.
Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
07:36 Woke up
11:30 left pitch
11:49 completed alongside Llyn Du rock scramble
13:20 Rhinog Fawr
14:45 Snack stop 15:00
15:40 Bwlch Arddawy
16:11 cross ladder stile at bottom of Cwm Hosan
16:27 Llyn Hosan
17:28 Llyn Hywel
19:00 Supper finished, mist began rolling in
19:18 everything squared away. Total white put across lake
3.4 miles and 1558ft of asent from Llyn Du to Llyn Hywel completed at end of 45th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 423
Miles in 2026 : 13
Weather : sunny morning, hazy later with on and of breeze, cooler later, white out mist from 19:00.
Number of people passed : 8
Objective tomorrow : Rhinog Fach, Y LLethr, Diffwys, BarmouthRead more
Day 44 Trawsfynydd to Llyn Du
Jun 14–18 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Sunday: Up 07:30 away 10:20
Late start today while I laid out tent and sleeping mat to dry out in the sun.
Inspired by Dave Taylor's suggestion (of Barmouth walking festival) that I might beat the forecast Tuesday rain if I walked to Llyn Du (Black lake) beneath Rhinog Fawr today. This distance I had taken me two days in 2022 when I walked the Cambrian Way in the opposite direction. The only cost was, I arrived very late to pitch. But it was worth trying.
Hike began with a hard climb up Moel Gyrafolen. I back tracked a few times crossing bog land between SH 68001 35911 and ladder stile at SH 67372 35846 also on the final ascent through billberry bushes where the path became indistinct. Once on the top relatively easy straightforward walk across Diffwys, Foel Penolau, Ysgyfarnogod and onto Llyn Du. With only the ascent and descent of Foel Penolau being steep. Llyn Du had been my original objective, but with it being only 15:00 there was plenty of day for more progress.
Next 0.37 miles to Llyn Corn Stwc was challenging taking 55 minutes. Back tracked a few times to avoid boggy land and to navigate around higher ground.
Just south of Llyn Corn Stwc stopped to make supper at 16:00. Generally I would make supper after pitching. On this occasion my thinking was, eating earlier would allow me to recover some strength and gain some energy for the remainder of the hike.
Route down to Bwlch Gwylim and on down to Cwm Bychan was long but straightforward except for the final ¼ mile steeply down to Cwm-bychan farm. I do not think the route I followed was on the path, which was unclear.
At Cwm Bychan I filled up my water bottles from the stream via the excellent Grayl Ultralight filter bottle that my daughter Angharad had loaned to me.
Final section was up the Roman steps, which were not as well laid as I had thought I remembered them. Except for a few short sections laid was steps the rest were boulders, grass and bog.
Last time I was at Llyn Du I pitched in the north west corner of the lake which required a traverse over lakeside boulders. As it was late and I was tired, I pitched on the east side, near where I arrived at the lake. This turn out to be a successful location.
Arrival and departure times from features visited today.
10:20 left campsite
12:20 Moel Gyrafolen
Diffwys
13:40 Foel Penlau
14:15 Ysgyfarnogod left 14:43
16:00 Llyn Corn Stwc left 17:13
17:52 Bwlch Gwylim
19:10 Cwm Bychan left 19:20
20:48 Reached right turn towards Llyn Du
21:17 Llyn Du
19:28 Arrived pitch
7.9 miles and 3264ft of ascent from Cae Adda campsite to Llyn Du lake below Rhinog Fawr completed at end of 44th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 420
Miles in 2026 : 10
Weather : hazy sunny morning, full sunshine in the afternoon. Occasional breeze but generally no wind all day.
Number of people passed : 5
Objective tomorrow : Ascend and desend Rhinog Fawr then Rhinog FachRead more
Day 43 Cardiff to Trawsfynydd
June 13 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
Saturday: Up 06:30 away 09:20
Up early to finish packing my rucksack. Walked 10 minutes to bus stop to catch my first bus of 4 buses. Last bus will drop me outside Trawsfynydd village from which I have a 2 mile walk around Trawsfynydd lake to Cae Adda lakeside campsite.
Newtown was very busy with a festival / carnival of some sort.
Had a pint and supper in the White Lion / Llew Gwyn in Machynlleth where I supped many times with Barmouth walking festival pals.
2 miles from Trawsfynydd village to Cae Adda campsite completed at end of 43rd day of walking.
Total miles so far : 412
Miles in 2026 : 2
Weather : sunny all day, keen wind made it feel quite cool in the evening.
Number of people passed : Lots
Objective tomorrow : Over Ysgyfarnogod to camp beside Llyn Du or Llyn Corn Stwc.Read more
Day 42 Maentwrog to Trawsfynydd
July 10, 2023 in Wales ⋅ 🌧 17 °C
Monday : Up 07:00, away 09:15.
Dry as I began striking camp and packing. Rain started as I struck tent. Walked the mile to Maentwrog, where I met my friend Dave from Barmouth Walking Festival, who was joining me for the day. Dave said I looked thinner, when I weigh myself later at home I discovered I have lost 13 lbs / 6Kgs.
Out of Maentwrog, our walk started straight uphill for a mile on a minor road, then off right for a short distance on a track before crossing wet fields for 3/4 mile to Trawsfynydd Dam. There followed 3 miles along west side of Llyn Trawsfynydd lake. It was raining all the while as we passed Cae Adda campsite where I had planned to camp. Dave had found that the website for Cross Foxes pub in Trawsfynydd village advertised a bunk house. With the constant rain this seemed more sensible than camping.
We paused for lunch at the Mountain rescue centre when rain stopped for a shot while.
As we passed the Dam at the southern end of the lake there was an increase in vehicles, we assumed these were fishermen. At the junction with the main A470 we turned left / north towards Trawsfynydd village. This part of the road has a welcome pavement as traffic was passing at 60 mph.
In the village stopped at Garage to say hello to the father of my former colleague Emyr, whom I had worked with at Kukd/Eurofoods.
15:10 entered Cross Foxes Inn and was told opening was 17:00. Enquired if a room was available, there was, and in which case Bar was open for us immediately - result! We ate when kitchen opened at 17:00. Dave left around 20:00 to drive home to Cheshire. It had been great to spend a day with him despite the poor weather,
All good things come to an end and ths one has too. I need 4 days of good days weather to hike across the Rhinog mountains to Barmouth. Rain and high winds are forecast for remainder of the week so going to call it a day on my walk around Wales and travel home tomorrow. I was lucky too get 6 weeks of good weather and optimistic to expect it to last 2 months.
9 miles from Maentwrog to Trawsfynydd completed at end of 42nd day of walking and 9th on the Cambrian Way.
Total miles so far : 410
Average speed : 1.7 mph
Weather : Dry at first then rain for much of the day, blustery wind from mid afternoon
Number of people passed : 0
Objective tomorrow : Going homeRead more
Day 41 day off in Maentwrog & Porthmadog
July 9, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Sunday : Up 08:00, away 09:10.
Slept later than I intended, presumably tired from lack of sleep yesterday. Skipped breakfast and started walk to Maentwrog for 10:00 Service at St.Twrog's. I was a little early as I passed Grapes Hotel, which was open, so popped in for a cup of Tea. Visiting Minister's Sermon included reference to Joseph, perhaps unwisely, telling his brothers his dream that he had of them bowing down to him and so incurring their ire and their plot to dispose of him. He reflected that similarly in a murder investigation, the Police first look to eliminate family members. I am sure we all know the story that it all worked out okay in the end as Joseph became Pharaoh's right hand man and was reconciled to his brothers.
During the after Service Teas and Coffees I asked about buses to Porthmadog. Parishioner Doris was driving to Porthmadog so I had a lift - hurrah!
In Porthmadog used a laundrette. Probably for the first time since I was a child using one under my Mother's instruction.
Then walked through Porthmadog High Street to the Ffestiniog railway station. I was hoping to walk around Porthmadog harbour and Martime museum but last train was in 20 minutes so I boarded for Bleanau Ffestiniog.
Blaenau was somewhat sad looking, although council funds had clearly been spent on smart paving and public buildings to make it look a little better.
I returned on the train as far as Plas Halt, the closet to Maentwrog. I was puzzled why the train occasionally slowed until, in a curve in the line, I realised it was for sheep on the line!
2.5 miles around Maentwrog, Porthmadog and Blaenau Ffestiniog completed at end of 41st day of walking.
Total miles so far : 401
Weather : sunshine and glorious most of the day. Heavy rain late afternoon for an hour
Number of people passed : Hundreds
Objective tomorrow : Cae Adda campsite, TrawsfynyddRead more
Day 40 Cnicht to Maentwrog
July 8, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Saturday : Up 06:00, away 07:00.
Wind strength was unbelievable during the night. Tent was continually flapping violently against my sleeping bag. I felt sure my Terra Nova Wild Country Zephyros 1 tent was going to shred at any moment. I was kept awake much of the night both by being battered by the flapping tent and the anxiety of thinking I could be homeless in any moment!
At 6 am, wind was still wild, but the tent had held and it had not rained, in fact the sun was shining. I skipped cooking porridge as stove was unlikely to work well in the wind. I had plenty of Pepperarmis, energy bars and a sandwich from Beddgelert grocer bought yesterday.
As I walked down the gentle slope towards Llyn yr Adar wind was the same strength but didn't feel as bad walking with rucksack packed. Psychosomatic no doubt. Then a right turn down towards a large disused Slate quarry. This mile looked straightforward but took a while as I referred to map frequency to try to stay on the Cambrian Way route. Met a German couple here who had wild camped beside Llyn Cwm-corsiog. I forgot to ask them how windy it was. I wondered if it was better sheltered than my pitch.
Through the disused Slate Quarry it began gently raining. The route ascended a slate incline that was very wet, I placed each foot step carefully.
After leaving the slate workings behind and beginning my ascent up Moelwyn Mawr I met WO2 (Warrent officer 2) Sargeant Major Steve. He had retired just a few months earlier in September 2022. He was carefully assessing his position on an OS Map using the contours and features. A skill he said he had lost as he ascend the ranks. Apparently this tends to be a role for more junior Soldiers. We met a few more times as I ascended (because he kept overtaking me) and chatted about lots of things military. He echoed what I had heard a few weeks before from a former Royal Marine on Offa's Dyke path, that UK territorial forces were being built up as UK has been behind other countries in this regard.
Having only met 4 people all morning, at the top of Moelwyn Mawr a party of 8 arrived soon after me. Steve was already there making a brew - of course! I was amazed how light his JetBoil stove was. Even including the Gas canister it was far lighter than my MSR Saucepan.
Down from Moelwyn Mawr took a while needing care on the tricky scrambles down. Once at Bwlch Stwlan descent was an easy, though boggy, zig-zag down to Llyn Stwlan Dam. The mile below Stwlan Dam through Camfa Derw was slow, picking through high Ferns. I am sure these were not here last June 2022?
I passed the turn off to Duallt station on the Ffestiniog narrow gauge railway by not paying attention. Although gentle, the ascent back seemed to take forever because I was tiring.
Once on the road, route was straightforward and once I had left Cambrian Way I put my thumb out and eventually got a lift the last few hundred yards to Llechrwd Riverside campsite.
Teachers accompaning Duke of Edinburgh students pitched next to me. Maria had a Terra Nova Laser 1 tent. It was exactly the same design as mine, but made from lighter material that made it lighter. How I envied that saved 0.5 Kg! ... although not the extra £400 it cost.
Had supper at the nearby Grapes Hotel a mile away in Maentwrog. No success in hitching this time sadly.
9.5 miles from Cnicht to Llechrwd Riverside campsite completed at end of 40th day of walking and 8th on the Cambrian Way.
Total miles so far : 398.5
Average speed : 1.3 mph
Weather : Extremely strong wind overnight and dry. Sunshine at first with very strong wind. Cloudly with spots of rain from 08:30. Cloud rolled in around 10:00 which l was in until mid afternoon. Sunny, reducing cloud and temperature increasing for remainder of the day.
Number of people passed : 18
Objective tomorrow : Day offRead more
Day 39 Pont Bethania to Cnicht
July 7, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Friday : Up 07:00, away 09:00.
Struck camp without breakfast so I could eat in nearby Caffi Pont Bethania. Cambrian Way then continued alongside Llyn Dinas lake. Passed a couple of Duke of Edinburgh parties here. A short while later met my friend Derek from Barmouth Walking festival. Derek was in good time and, as usual, I was late! I topped up with groceries then we set off.
Route started along spectacular Afon Glaslyn River. The riverside route involved traversing large rocks, handholds bolted onto the rock sides and steps bolted onto huge rocks.
Then through woodland before breaking out to an open track approach towards Cnicht. Temperature was hot by now. Derek had recced a short cut near here yesterday which had proved wet and overgrown. A reason why it is worth following long distance paths, they seem to be better maintained.
This path seemed interminable. We stopped for lunch at rocks suitable for sitting. At this point I reaslised I had left my walking stick in the Pont Aberglasyn/Nantmor car park. Derek returned from here after we had lunched. It had been great having his company and I felt the loss when we parted.
I continued on the ever steepening ascent passing a couple of desending parties on the way. One more party at the final rock slab. I correctly ascended this on the east side. Last year I descend down the 30 foot west side rock slab which took ages and was hazardous.
Once atop Cnicht I carried on north a few hundred yards past 2 more lesser peaks. A short distance further on a 30 foot diameter pool looked attractive to camp near, had signal and was closer than Llyn yr Adar lake that I had been thinking of camping beside. There was little breeze as I pitched but it gradually increased. I then checked the forecast which predicted gusting to 49 knots! Oh well, committed now but I expect to be homeless by the morning.
Today's timings -
09:00 left campsite,
09:20 arrived Caffi Bethania for breakfast
09:45 began walk on Llyn Dinas lakeside path,
11:10 arrived Beddgelert, met Derek, bought groceries,
11:30 left Beddgelert,
15:30 Derek returned to Beddgelert,
17:10 arrived bottom of Cnicht final ascent,
17:35 reached Cnicht summit,
10 miles from Pont Bethania to Cnicht completed at end of 39th day of walking and 7th on the Cambrian Way.
Total miles so far : 389
Average speed : 1.5 mph
Weather sunshine and glorious. A hot day with an occasional breeze. Wind strong in the evening from 20:00.
Number of people passed : 22
Objective tomorrow : Moelwyn Mawr then Maentwrog.Read more
Day 38 Pen-y-pass Snowdon Pont Bethania
July 6, 2023 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 14 °C
Thursday : Up 06:45, away 08:30.
Caught 09:03 bus from Pont Bethania back to Pen-y-pass. Bought a few provisions from Youth Hostel which was being manned by Kate whom I had met in YHA Conwy. She gets around.
The Miners track and PYG path start together and rejoin high up the mountain. I decided to take the Miners track. Very gentle ascent at first, steps and scrambling towards the end.
I managed to get a lady from Heath, Cardiff to photograph me at the top and I returned the favour.
The Café was open at the top so Tea, sandwich and cake were purchased. Talked to a chap from Coventry and lady from Italy. Easy to tell she was from Italy she was so smartly dressed - how do the Italians do that?
Desent was straightforward down the 'South route'. Only passed 5 people.
Arrived campsite in plenty of time to shower and change for 18:49 bus to Beddgelert. Decided to go straight to the Tronnoen Inn. The staff were odd but they were friendly, the furniture was comfortable and they were happy for me to charge my device. Got talking to a Richard who left a well paid job in Engineering that he loathed to hand draw maps that he loves http://www.firtreemaps.com
Got a lift back to the campsite from fellow campers Alan from Ledbury and son Tony from Cornwall.
Today's timings -
09:40 left Pen-y-pass,
12:55 top of Snowden,
13:35 began descent,
16:55 arrived Pont Bethania.
10 miles from Pen-y-pass to Pont Bethania completed at end of 38th day of walking and 6th on the Cambrian Way.
Total miles so far : 379
Average speed : 1.5 mph
Weather : Mostly overcast with sunny intervals. SW breeze for much of the day that was strong around the summit and on the South facing descent.
Number of people passed : Dozens, but only 5 on the descent down the South route.
Objective tomorrow : CnichtRead more
Day 37 YHA Idwal cottage to Pen y pass
July 5, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
Wednesday : Up 06:00, away 07:50.
Last night's packing worked splendidly, allowing me to get away my earliest yet after breakfast. Walk began with gentle ascent over river bridge then across laid rocks to foot of waterfall on Nant Bochlwyd. Then steep up to Llyn Bochlwyd lake. I navigated too far south towards the lake. My excuse for poor navigationis that the path is faint here!
Onwards up to Bwlch Tryfan over rocky path, some of it laid. Last year there were goats on this section but not this year. Over the stile onto the Miners track which is over very loose scree and stoney surface so I walked on it with considerable care. Reaching the top the route takes a hairpin right towards Glyder Fach. After 600 yards, a significant ridge of rocks required some careful scrambling to ascend over huge boulders.
Once on the top route was straightforward passed Glyder Fach, Castell y Gwynt and Glyder Fawr. Mostly over rocky ground.
Descent down from Glyder Fawr was challenging. The route was unclear, I ended up lowering myself down rock walls and laterly over very wet ground to get to Pen-y-pass.
Today's timings -
07:50 started walking,
09:50 reached Bwlch Tryfan ladder stile,
11:00 reached top of Miners track,
12:10 reached Glyder Fach,
13:00 reached Glyder Fawr,
15:00 reached Pen-y-pass in good time for 15:35 bus to Pont Bethania
I was well ahead of the 10 hours I took to cross the Glyders last year so was able to catch 3 hour earlier bus. Arrived National Trust campsite Hafod-y-Llan around 16:30 with plenty of time to pitch and shower before catching 18:49 bus from nearby Pont Bethania to Beddgelert for supper, Cider and device charging.
In Beddgelert I tried the Prince Llewelyn and Y Bistro yn yr Hebog for supper but both had all seats taken so ended in the Tronnoen Inn where I had suppered last year and wanted to avoid! Got talking to an Australian-Canadian couple who were staying next door to the Inn. They kindly drove me back to campsite when I said I was going to get a taxi. People are so kind. They live in Australia. The Canadian lady said she doesn't miss Canada, it is too cold!
6 miles from Idwal cottage to Pen y pass completed at end of 37th day of walking and 5th on the Cambrian Way.
Total miles so far : 369
Average speed : 1.2 mph
Weather sunshine and glorious. Another hot day with a welcome ENE breeze for much of the day.
Number of people passed : 21
Objective tomorrow : Over Snowdon from Pen-y-pass to Pont BethaniaRead more
Day 36 Cwm Ysgolion Duon to Idwal
July 4, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
Tuesday : Up 08:00, away 10:45. Today is my continuation over the Carnedd mountains that I forshortened on Sunday because of extremely strong wind.
After leaving the Hostel, walked east along the A5 then up the foot path alongside Afon Lloer stream. I carried on to the tarn at the bottom of the Cwm that is the source of the Afon Lloer. This was far wetter than my route down on Sunday when I had 'cut the corner' and walked further east. Lesson learned. I then retraced my route up the green hillside to Cefn Ysgolion Duon. Some wind at the top but nothing like as strong as on Sunday.
Left/west turn here for a straightforward walk up to Carnedd Dafydd. Initially over grass, latterly small rocks. Quite an elaborate wind shelter here built with entrances in 3 directions on this, the second highest of the Carnedd peaks at 1044 metres / 3425 feet.
Route down to Bwlch Ole Wen was rocky then grass before short ascent up Pen Yr Ole Wen. The whole of this walk was a circuit around a Cwm with the tarn at the bottom always in view on my left.
I had been dreading the descent from Pen Yr Ole Wen knowing how steep it was the last time I ascended it. I had asked YHA Idwal cottage warden Jerone for advice, having found ascending it in 2022 required climbing. The descent did prove challenging taking 1:40. Resolved to return one day in future to establish which is the best route up and down. Once off Pen Yr Ole Wen I descended alongside Afon Lloer stream. This is my third time descending alongside this stream.
Once at the bottom of the descent besdie Tal y Llyn Ogwen farm I walked along the Cambrian Way route along the north side of Llyn Ogwen lake to Idwal Cottage. I discovered this path was part of the Snowdonia slate trail. There were lots of ups and downs over rocks & wet ground and the final 100 yards were a particular challenge over precipitous rocks.
Today's timings -
11:15 reached east end of Llyn Ogwen,
12:00 reached wall half way up Afon Lloer,
13:45 reached Cefn Ysgolion Duon,
14:15 reached summit Carnedd Dafydd,
15:00 reached foot of Bwlch yr Ole Wen,
15:10 reached summit Pen yr Ole Wen,
16:50 reached wall half way down Afon Lloer,
18:30 reached YHA Idwal cottage
Chatting to warden Saskia after supper she mentioned a guest had cancelled their booking. This was for the single toom in the Hostel (there is only one single room). So I managed to 'upgrade' my tent pitch to the single room. This allowed me to strike tent while it was dry and pack everything for an early departure tomorrow morning on what I expect to be a hard walk over Glyder Fach, Glyder Fawr and down to Pen y pass.
9 miles from Idwal Cottage back to Idwal Cottage completed at end of day 36th of walking and 4th on the Cambrian Way.
Total miles so far : 363
Average speed : 1.3 mph
Weather sunshine for most of the day with 20 minutes of rain around 12:30.
Number of people passed : 6
Objective tomorrow : Over the Glyders to Pen y pass.Read more
Day 35 day off in Idwal and Bangor
July 3, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
Monday : Up 07:00, away 11:20. Lazy start to the day. After dressing in full wet weather clothes and packing everything else into rucksack, walked the 40 yards from the Youth Hostel garden camping grounds to the Youth Hostel for breakfast. Put Rucksack in drying room - it had got wet yesterday while pitching tent. Drying rooms are such an excellent feature of Youth Hostels. They are often too hot to stay in for more than a few minutes and can dry clothes in less than an hour.
After writing yesterday's blog I caught 11:25 bus to Bangor. It was full of Scouts from Republic of Ireland so I only had a seat for half the journey until surrendering it to a more senior lady. I learned that schools in RoI have 3 months summer holiday.
Rain had stopped by the time we arrived in Bangor. Went first to the nearby Cathedral. Was delighted to discover there is a daily Service that would begin 20 minutes after my arrival.
After the Sevice stopped in a Café for lunch then walked around Bangor. Saddening to find quite a few empty shop units. Caught the 14:25 return bus back to Idwal cottage. Buses were every 2 hours.
Back at the hostel finished yesterday's blog, made supper, chatted to a few fellow hostelers and booked to stay a 3rd night (Tuesday). Weather forecast had improved considerably so I resolved to continue my attempt to walk the Cambrian Way with a short 'test walk' tomorrow. I planned to walk to where I dropped off the route yesterday at Cefn Ysgolion Duon and from there continue walking The Cambrian Way to got as far as Idwal cottage.
1 mile around Bangor completed at end of 35th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 354
Weather : Rain overnight and all morning. Sunshine from midday until late afternoon. Intermittent rain and sunshine for the remainder of the day.
Objective tomorrow : Cefn Ysgolion Duon to YHA Idwal cottage.Read more
Day 34 Dulyn Bothy to YHA Idwal
July 2, 2023 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 13 °C
Sunday : Up 07:00, away 09:30. Good night's sleep in Bothy, despite having to share with 4 strangers. I was first up but David, who arrived late previous night, was first away. Retraced route from Bothy back to Bwlch y Gwryd where I left Cambrian Way yesterday. Only 1.25 miles but took 2:40 over the tussocky surface. It was worth paying this price of going off road for the knowledge that Bothy stood the wind where the tent might not have. Although, the 3 tents pitched a few hundred yards down the valley were all still up in the morning so maybe I underestimated my tent?
The walk across the bwlch (saddle) was fast over large laid stones. It looked as though this area would be very wet in the early part of the year. Then a climb up to Foel-fras over a pleasant grass surface. For 50 yards around Foel-fras trig point were rocks of 1 - 3 feet diameter making the approach tricky, like walking on a beach. I had thought there was a shelter here but had misremembered from walking this way in 2022. The shelter was in fact 2 peaks further south at Foel Grach.
Descent from Foel-fras was speedy on grass of gentle descent. At the bottom the bwlch was again laid stones before the next ascent, again on grass to Carnedd Gwenllian. This peak was also rocky, although fewer and smaller in size so easy to walk across.
Next peak was Foel Grach where I stopped in the shelter to lunch. Signs inside advised it as not to be used as a destination only in emergencies. The respite from the wind was most welcome. I was joined presently by 2 chaps who were walking the Wales 3000 (all the peaks in Wales above 3000 feet). They were surprised to find the shelter and puzzuled at its provision. The only other shelter I have come across is on Cadair Idris.
Back out in the wind, which seemed stronger than ever, after a short descent to the bwlch was a long walk up to Carnedd Llewelyn, the highest mountain in the Carnedd range at 3491ft/1064m.
The forecast for next few days was wind even stronger, gusting up to 40 knots and thunder storms so I resolved to shelve Cambrian Way and travel home Tuesday. I suppose I was unreasonably optimistic that I would have 2 months of good weather. So with the decision to go home made and the incessant wind wearing me down, I resolved to leave the ridge at the first opportunity, which would be after Bwlch Cyfryw-drum. The route down to the bwlch was over rock and gravel with a rocky peak at the bottom that the Cambrian Way passed to the east / leeward side. The shelter from the strong westerly wind was extremely welcome.
A few hundred yards further, at 5pm, on escarpment Cefn Ysgolion Duon, I took a bearing left to aim to descend to Llyn Lloer lake. In the past I had seen people walk up this way from Llyn Lloer but there was no path marked on the map nor obvious on the ground. I was anxious there might be impassable rocks / cliff but it turned out to be a mostly grassy route with just an occasional rock to walk around. This veering to the left took me off the Cambrian Way avoiding an ascent up Carnedd Dafydd then Pen Yr Ole Wen and, what I was most eager to avoid, a very steep descent from Pen Yr Ole Wen.
From Llyn Lloer I rejoined the Cambrian Way footpath alongside Afon Lloer stream down to the main A5 road. From here it was a mile walk alongside Llyn Ogwen lake to YHA Idwal cottage. I tried thumbing a lift but without success.
Arriving just after 7pm I was greeted by Mark who showed me where to pitch after I had loaded the washing machine (no charge, just £1 in the charity collection). It began to rain heavily as I was pitching so I just put up the tent then retreated to the hostel to cook my supper in the well provisioned hostel kitchen. I finished 'furnishing' the tent later when the rain stopped.
9 miles from Dylan Bothy to YHA Idwal completed at end of 34th day of walking and 3rd on the Cambrian Way.
Total miles so far : 353
Average speed : 1.3 mph
Weather : Strong wind of yesterday continued and made temperature cold as a result. Intermittent sunshine for most of the day. Light rain at very end of the day.
Number of people passed : 8
Objective tomorrow : Day offRead more
Day 33 Rowen to Drum
July 1, 2023 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 13 °C
Saturday : Up 08:30, away 10:45. Reached Cambrian Way at Mean Penddu rock 12:30 to resume walk south. Strong westerly wind hit me as soon as I crested the ridge. Surface was mostly grass, much of it worn to the soil and occasional small rocks. Hard work against the wind ascending first Tal-y-Fan, Foel Lwyd then very steep drop to Roman road at Bwlch y Ddeufaen followed by ascent to Drum. Foel-fras was to be my next and last objective of the day but wind was unbelievably strong, too much for tent pitching. Instead decided to descend to the east to Dulyn Bothy. In the lee of the ridge wind stopped within a few minutes as I descended. There was no route from the direction I was approaching so it was a hard 1.25 miles over rough ground that took 90 minutes.
Arrived at the Bothy same time as a party of 3 friends. They decided to pitch their tents beside the lake that was a couple of hundred yards up hill, then came to the Bothy to cook supper. Another party of 3 pitched a couple of hundred yards downhill a short while later. Then a third party of 3 from Leeds arrived and joined me in the Bothy - so I didn't have it to myself in the end. About 10pm, a few minutes after retiring 1 more chap appeared in the Bothy for the night. He had been on the ridge but had found it very cold, so retreated to the warmth of the Bothy.
9 miles from Rowen to Dulyn Bothy completed at end of 33rd day of walking and 2nd on the Cambrian Way.
Total miles so far : 344
Average speed : 1.3 mph
Weather : rain overnight and in the morning with strong wind. The wind continued all day and kept temperature sufficiently cool for me to wear jacket and overtrousers all day. Wind was strong enough to halt me and push me over at times.
Number of people passed : 10
Objective tomorrow : YHA IdwalRead more
Day 32 Conwy to Rowen
June 30, 2023 in Wales ⋅ 🌧 15 °C
Friday : Up 06:30, away 09:30. I thought I would be away earlier without the need to strike camp, but not wanting to disturb the other 3 chaps in my shared room had delayed my departure. Yesterday, I had spotted a church that had a 10:00 service this morning. I had considered going to this before leaving Conwy because on Sunday, I will be on top of the Carnedd mountain range, so unable to attend a service. I decided against attending to get to next campsite earlier and pitch before forecast rain. I later regretted this because I arrived at site in good time and the forecast rain did not materialise.
Once at Conwy castle I made the final of the 4 left turns I will make on my odyssey, this time southwards. Cambrian Way will be the hardest part of my journey at 298 miles and total ascent similar to Everest. All the walking up until Conwy has been training for this.
First mile was along a pleasant seaside path then over a railway bridge before beginning ascent up Conwy mountain. Wind was strong in my face all the way up, prompting me to don my jacket. I was making surprisingly swift progress, passing 10 people on this stretch. As I crossed Sychnant pass a dozen cars were parked having presumably delivered people to walk up Conwy mountain. Next was a lonely walk up and down Maen Esgob where I met Ally and her Bulgarian dog. She was born nearby, moved as a child to Leigh-on-sea Essex but missed County Conwy so much that as soon as she could drive she moved back. Unusual to meet a southern accent, most people I met are from the north west or Midlands.
A couple of miles further, I arrived at Maen Penddu - a huge stone - where I left the Cambrian Way to begin my descent to Cefn Cae campsite. Expensive at £20 including showers, but high quality facilities block, level neatly mown grass and owner Gwyn sought out a chair and folding table for me when I asked if there was a picnic table I could pitch near. They used to have picnic tables, but guests had set them on fire with their Barbecues! While pitching nearby campers Una and John invited me for tea and busicuits which I accepted as sun was shining. I have met so many friendly people on this trip and this was another example.
Walked the short 200 yards to the nearby Ty Gwyn Pub for supper and cider. Was honoured to be recognised by barmaid from when I was here in 2022 walking the Cambrian Way south to north.
9 miles from Conwy to Rowen completed at end of 32nd day of walking and 1st on Cambrian Way.
Total miles so far : 335
Average speed : 2.1 mph
Weather overcast all day, strong wind, intermittent showers.
Number of people passed : 12
Objective tomorrow : Foel-FrasRead more
Day 31 Rhôs-on-Sea to Conwy
June 29, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Thursday : Up 07:00, away 10:15 after saying goodbye to Hasan.
Caught bus from Dinarth Hall back to Rhôs-on-Sea harbour to resume from where I finished yesterday. More Wales coast path walking on promenade. The whole promenade from Prestatyn (and perhaps further east?) to Penrhyn Bay is a continual off-road cycle route. Must be a dream to ride on.
From Penrhyn bay the coastal path passes through a housing estate before ascending the Little Orme. As my first ascent for 2 days this was a minor shock to the system. I was back to Rhian's counting paces before pausing to recover my breath. Little Orme was a pleasant break in the long miles of promenade. The small north facing beach bay looked like it could match any in the Mediterranean on a sunny day.
After Little Orme the Wales Coast path descended down main road A546 into Llandudno. This road ran along the beach front, which somewhat spoilt this part of the promenade. Roads in previous towns I visited were relatively lightly trafficed, but this was carrying lots of traffic. I stopped at a café on the front for lunch and to charge my device.
Once in Llandudno spent 90 minutes walking in and out of the outdoor shops looking for Campingaz with Easy-Clic fitting in small cylinder size (CV300). Go Outdoors had fitting and size; Regatta and Mountain Warehouse had right fitting only in large size (CV470); Trespass had neither.
Walking through the shops put me quite a way north on the Great Ormes head peninsula. I could have walked around Great Ormes head, but from a trip here earlier in the year, I knew this was all road walking. Decided to walk to the west beach, then turn south towards Conwy. At 4 miles this was further than I had in mind, but I was committed. Walking along the soft sand was tiring so I moved further down the beach to hard sand. I eventually made it off the sand onto another promenade where I met Howard of Cardigan whom I had met earlier on the Little Orme. He was walking the whole Wales Coast path. We walked together into Conwy together with another walker Anthony who was day walking a stretch of the coastal path.
In Conwy I sought out the post office in a Spar shop (open until 8pm) and posted home my inner socks - more weight saved. Then up hill to YHA Conwy where I was greeted by Kate who recommended The Eskine for food and Cider, particularly as the YHA had a school party in who were as noisy as might be expected.
10 miles from Rhôs-on-Sea to Conwy completed at end of 31st day of walking.
Total miles so far : 326
Average speed : 2.2 mph
Weather sunshine and glorious. A hot day with a westerly breeze on and off.
Number of people passed : Hundreds
Objective tomorrow : RowenRead more
Day 30 Towyn to Rhôs-on-Sea
June 28, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Wednesday : Up 07:00, away 10:00 ... then got talking to Hasan who had just got up so I did not start walking until 10:45. Woke with an ache at the front of my right leg a couple of inches below my knee. I imagine this was from walking on hard surfaces all yesterday. Caused me to begin walking with a slight limp and a note to self to walk on grass and sand where available. Good news was the £2 JCB socks had worked fine. No stubbed toes and no ache in the sole of my foot.
Retraced route through Towyn Caravan Parks, crossing railway over footbridge onto the Wales coast path. Coastal path continued alongside the many packed Caravan parks in Towyn, Belgrano, Pensarn and Abergele before opening up with space at Llandduas. I crossed the Afon Dulas river here and immediately afterwards the heavens opened. The first heavy rain I have had on this trip. I sheltered under a railway viaduct in the hope it would cease but to no avail. Eventually I capitulated, donned my full wet weather clothing and carried on. The rain eventually stopped but the temperature remained low so I kept my coat on for the rest of the day.
Entering Colwyn Bay was uplifting. It had a well maintained air with interesting coastal path art, including markers at various distances commemorating athletic successes e.g. Usain Bolt 100m.
Colwyn Bay ran into Rhôs-on-sea which had an even more upmarket feel to it. No Caravan parks nor boarding houses, instead smart suburban houses. At the harbour I caught a bus inland to my campsite for today at Dinarth Hall. This was a working farm with cattle and horses and lots of horsey looking people around. I was greeted by Zoë whom I had spoken to by telephone earlier, directed to the facilities and the camping field. Facilities were a bit tired but functional so perfectly reasonable for £10 including showers.
After pitching and 'fitting out' tent I finished my complementary 33ml shampoo from the Dolphin Inn, Llanymynech today after 13 uses. 2.5ml needed per hair wash for follically challenged people like me! On my return I discovered Hasan from Germany, who had pitched near me yesterday, had arrived and pitched. We walked together to the nearby Queens Head for supper. I learned his parents had brought him from Kurdish Turkey to Germany when he was 6. He spoke German, Kurdish, Turkish, English and a little Spanish. Examplary compared to my smattering of German!
9 miles from Towyn to Colwyn Bay completed at end of 30th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 316
Average speed : 2.1 mph
Weather overcast with occasional sunshine. A far cooler day than yesterday with a Westerly breeze for much of the day, although lighter than yesterday.
Number of people passed : Hundreds
Objective tomorrow : ConwyRead more
Day 29 Prestatyn to Towyn
June 27, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Tuesday : Up 09:00, away 11:00. A late start today because I was tired from yesterday's long walk and it was raining first thing. Once rain stopped packed quickly in case rain restarted then walked across road to the 'Bells of St.Mary's' pub for breakfast before catching bus back to Prestatyn.
Lots of shops in Prestatyn so stocked up on supplies and lunch. Supplies included a £6 triple pack of socks from TKMaxx badged as 'JCB'. They have padded sole, toe and heel so I will see tomorrow if they are as good as the £17.50 Bridgedale socks.
Then walked back to end of Offa's Dyke path and turned left onto Wales coast path. This is the third of the 4 left turns I will make on my odyssey, this time westwards.
The walk along the coast path was all on a concrete promenade sea defence wall. The height of sea defences differed, and around Rhyl there was lots of civil engineering activity to improve the sea defences. Here and in a couple of other places the promenade was closed requiring a walk out to sea or inland. At one point I arrived at the entrance to a works yard as a dumper truck was exiting. I motioned to the driver to carry on. But he insisted I cross first. Made me wonder whether the contractors had been briefed to show maximum courtesy to the locals.
Although level the whole way, the walk was made hard because I was walking into a strong wind all day and surface was hard underfoot. Half way along I stopped at a café for tea & cake, to charge my device and write my blog.
Along the way I passed lots of holiday parks with row upon row of static caravans. Caused me to reflect what sort of holiday was it where your accommodation was below a sea wall, so unable to see the sea and with just neighbouring caravans to look at? Prestatyn was definitely a better quality town than Rhyl or Towyn.
Eventually arrived at Henllys Farm Camping & Touring site in Towyn greeted by Ndav (spelling?). A Welsh name that I have not heard before despite my living 42 years in Cardiff. Large site with huge numbers of facilities and a laundry with seriously professional machines - not something I have seen previously. Camped beside 2 cyclists mates from Australia Steve and Emery, another 2 cyclist Anglo/Russian couple Thomas, Natasha & child and German cyclist Hasan. Joined the Australians Steve & Emery in the pub later. Steve had worked in security in a number of countries and said UK was much better at anti-money laundering than Aus, but the USA were the leaders.
8 miles from Prestatyn to Towyn completed at end of 29th day of walking.
Total miles so far : 307
Average speed : 2.3 mph
Weather overcast all day with a strong westerly breeze all day.
Number of people passed : Hundreds
Objective tomorrow : Llandudno?Read more


















































































































































































































































