Into Ancient History

January - March 2019
Exploring Egypt, Cyprus, Israel and Turkey Read more
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  • Day 19

    Nicosia: A Capital Divided

    January 27, 2019 in Cyprus ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    We spent the morning still in Larnaca, a lazy morning before checking out St Lazarus Church downtown. It dates back to the 9th century, and St Lazarus tomb is here as well. It's a beautiful but small place worth checking out.

    On our way back to the car, I got my first glimpse of souvenir shopping in Cyprus. Good thing I'm limited by my backpack and also knowing I still have to carry things for another 5 weeks! Soaps from olive oil and donkey milk, spices, sweets, jewelry galore! It definitely took a little will power.

    Homemade lunch again, this time, I think it's the makaronia tou fournou (but don't quote me on it, I will double check with my friend). A tasty pasta dish that sort of looks like lasagna that's oven baked with meat, bechamel sauce and cheese all over village pasta.

    After that, we headed for Nicosia, Cyprus' capital actually just a 30-35 minute drive away with no traffic. Wheras Larnaca was tranquil like a sleepy village, Nicosia is definitely city. We wandered a few of the main pedestrian streets down, poking our heads into shops, glancing through a check point to the occupied part of the island. It's a bit strange to see these spots in the middle of the street, but the officers are serious about checking. One lady wanted to bring her dog across and was met with "no". Didn't get to crossing the border, but for education purposes, one day I probably will.

    I think Nicosia and the island of Cyprus has been divided since 1974 since the Turks occupied the northern half of the island, partly due to resources. There is still some tension, but no skirmishes that I saw. It was strange though seeing the barbed wire near the Ledas Hotel (now home for the UN) and Turks just sitting on the other side having coffee.

    We also stopped by the Turkish bath, a serene establishment once you enter. Didn't get a treatment, but perhaps next time.

    A chill night in to just hang out.
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  • Day 20

    Limassol, my base

    January 28, 2019 in Cyprus ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Monday means work for my friend, so I planned accordingly to move on to Limassol, Cyprus' 2nd largest city. Regular intercity buses make it very affordable and easy to move between cities here. 5 euros and an hour and a half later, I was back on the coast.

    At first glance, Limassol reminds me of any relaxed beach city. A beautiful long promenade allows people to fully enjoy being by the water. A number of beach resorts are clustered about 12km from the city center. My recommendation? Stay in the Old Town. I booked the Sir Paul Hotel for 3 nights and it is possibly the best hotel I've ever stayed in. I got a little distracted upon arrival so hear me out as I rave a little about this gem.

    Being off season, the price of the almost luxury room was a very affordable $160 CAD a night. It's spacious, comes with touch panel control for all your lighting and temperature needs. The waterfall shower was also amazing and so relaxing. The front desk is super helpful and the breakfast is lovely. Plus, there's a little balcony overlooking a pedestrian street below.

    With the help of the girl at the desk, I managed to get myself to Kolossi Castle (not quite exactly where I wanted to go - Kourion) but it was still fun. I almost had the place to myself and started experimenting with the timer on my camera to take non selfie photos. Nice and quiet out here as well.

    One more thing about Sir Paul, the location can't be beat. It's close to the bus stop for both local buses and intercity buses, and it's also within walking distance to the old town, the marina and even the Old Hospital where you catch buses to other nearby destinations, such as Kolossi Castle and the Troodos Mountains. Yes, you can take an hr and a half bus ride for the low price of 1.50 euro.

    In the evening, I wandered the streets the hotel before strolling down to the water for sunset. The clouds were a beautiful tint of pink, and sculptures along the promenade were getting lit up. I wound my way down to the marina before returning to the hotel to figure out what to do for dinner.

    I was feeling a bit lazy and didn't want to go far. Lucky for me, the #1 restaurant in the city (and price friendly) was actually just a few blocks away: Meze Taverna. Being Monday, it wasn't too busy and I ordered a traditional dish, eggplants stuffed with meat and covered with bechamel and sauce. One might say it's like a variation of the pasta dish I'd enjoyed the day before.
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  • Day 21

    A Day in the Mountains: Troodos

    January 29, 2019 in Cyprus ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    The Troodos Mountains are the highest peaks on Cyprus. Markings in the rock show how this was all once part of the sea bed. And the highest peak? Mount Olympus where the Greek Gods lived (or is there a Mount Olympic is Greece?)

    It's easy to catch the bus #64 from the Old Hospital bus station to here. Right now, there's only the one departure in the morning at 930am that departs the mountains at 3pm to bring you back. The bus number isn't listed on the timetable board, so it was a bit nerveracking especially as it got closer to and then past the scheduled time. Thankfully it did turn up as an old long distanced bus coach and we all piled in.

    The mountains aren't that far away, but the road is windy and we pass through several villages. A picturesque drive, the city gives way to rolling green fields, then valleys and mountainside villages. Given the elevation of the mountains, snow also came into view. The roads are clear, but there is about 2.5 of snow piled along the roadside. And it is cold. I kid you not.

    When we arrived at Troodos Square, the first order of business was putting my toque on and then finding out where Mt Olympus was. I was very glad that I hadn't booked a hiking tour as originally planned as I would never have made it, with the trail covered in snow. Instead I opted to walk along the road to Olympus. There are a few waterfalls in the area as well, but given the time we had, I picked what I picked.

    As I neared the top, the weather turned to be quite foggy, it was hard to see past 30 ft perhaps. I managed to get as far as I could go - a locked gate. Turns out there are military bases in the mountains. Still, I was as high as we could be, I learned from a local couple who drove up for some pictures. And not a bad way to get some exercise in.

    The trip down was definitely easier than up. I also stopped by Sun Valley, a very small ski spot that is a fraction of Whistler. Fog continued to bill and I was glad I went up when I did, as there's little to see now. Back in the square, I checked out a few of the shops before settling down for a much needed hot chocolate and lunch.

    Little else to do but wait for the return bus, however, instead of heading back to Limassol, i was going back to Nicosia for one more dinner with my friend. It was a bit nerve wracking trying the different route, especially when the 64 drove off. If the other bus didn't come, I'd likely be stranded on the mountain overnight (also not good, because I'd just booked a day tour for the next day).

    A local woman was waiting for the bus to Nicosia as well. She didn't speak English as we tried to communication about the bus. Here is where I got a little confused: Lefkosia/Nicosia, Lemesos/Limassol. Get it? Took me a while, but I finally figured it out. Tomayto tomahto. Luckily there were also a few people across the street waiting for the bus, and once the minibus arrived, 2 girls from Lithuania who confirmed our ride.

    The minibus was going to take us to a village nearby where we'd transfer to a large bus back to the city. Once we were on our way, it was just relief and trying to defrost from the cold. The drive back was really smooth and I got into the capital around 5pm. My friend wasn't off work yet, so I found a nice Starbucks to have a tea and read a book while I waited.

    A low key dinner of appies (she was still full) before we bid our farewells and I caught the last bus back to Limassol for the night. Quite the full day, but if you think about it, still not quite the go go go and time press that's demanding.
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  • Day 22

    Kourion the Ancient City

    January 30, 2019 in the United Kingdom ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After my location miss in getting to Kolossi Castle but not Kourion (I think the city sightseeing bus stops here normally...but not sure) and seeming a bit too far to walk, I was fortunate to find a last minute tour yesterday for Paphos & Kourion. Paphos was my original plan for the day so it worked out quite well.

    Our first stop of the day was the ancient city of Kourion, located west of Limassol You might wonder why this footprint notes the UK as a location, but the map shows Cyprus. Kourion is situated in the British territory here in Cyprus. En route, we would pass through naval bases like Episkopi. there's quite a level of difference between the homes of differently ranked officers.

    Our guide/driver for the day gave us a brief overview, and we had a local guide on site. We started at the house of Eustolios overlooking the Mediterannean. He was a wealthy man with a huge house, with some of the mosaics still remaining. Next stop, the Roman Theatre, which was actually reconstructed due to earthquakes in the area. It's not large by any means, but suited the city.

    A short walk away was the Episcopal Precinct & Cathedral of Kourion, also overlooking the Mediterranean. From here we had a about a half hour of free time to explore it, the Stadium, the forum, the baths, and the house of the gladiators. It felt a bit rushed as we likely could have enjoyed another 30 minutes here just to wander and explore.

    Near Kourion is the Sanctuary of Apollo. Sadly it wasn't on our itinerary, but our guide did drive in so we could take a few photos. Unfortunately the sanctuary itself is further back, it would've been nice to have gone, though probably adding 30 minutes to the tour if the company would consider it.
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  • Day 22

    Paphos Afternoon

    January 30, 2019 in Cyprus ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Had a bit of crazy weather as we moved from Kourion to Aphrodite's Rock outside of Paphos. The skies darkened. We'd heard the prediction of rain, and rain it did, along with some lightning. The only thing we could do was cross our fingers that the weather would dry out quickly before our next destination. What looked like wet snow on the window was not promising, but it did clear up soon enough.

    We pulled over on the road by some cliffs overlooking the beach where Aphrodite's Rock was located. Depending on which legend you hear, you'll find different reasons to swim out to and around Aphrodite's Rock. One version has to do with love while another of course is youth and beauty. You could also find true love, supposedly, if you find a heart shaped pebble on the beach. I'm admittedly guilty of picking up a few pebbles here, one sort of heart shaped, but nothing like what a fellow traveler found. Got too distracted at one point on the beach and didn't make it further along. Oops...perhaps I shall return here on a previous trip.

    The city of Paphos is the smallest on Cyprus I believe. Now that I'm here, I'm really glad I decided to make Limassol my base instead of Paphos and flying out from here. There's a few sights to see like the Saint Solomoni catacombs where she was first imprisoned for her faith, the tortured and killed. There's a large tree as well with numerous ribbons of cloth tied here. The ribbons represent prayers and hope for a cure for those who are ill. One person even tied on baby shoes.

    Onwards to St Paul's Pillar where the apostle was flogged, it's near a site with ruins of past churches, although a small one still stands today. Perhaps the biggest highlight of Paphos was the Archaeological Park. Filled not only with ruins, but also some stunning mosaics remaining from earlier times. The House of Dionysos is supposed to contain the best, but I think the best one is located at the House of Theseus. It's definitely worth exploring here for an hour or two.

    Time flew and we had to leave before we could see more of Paphos. I'm glad I took this tour as it helped make it an easy and focused day, not to mentioned a few sites like Aphrodite's Rock that would've been challenging to get to on my own.
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  • Day 23

    See you later Cyprus

    January 31, 2019 in Cyprus ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    My 5 days in Cyprus ended too soon. This is a beautiful country to explore further, and even in the occupied area in the North as well. I've definitely come at an interesting time where there are fewer visitors, and even got to see snow. There's still lots to see!

    Had a lovely last dinner at Pyxida Restaurant last night in the new marina. A bit tricky to find until you find out. I only ordered aubergine salad (a dip with pita) and the cuttlefish casserole starter sized, but they brought out a lot more on the house: hummous, fries and vegetables. I was stuffed, but managed to finish what I'd actually order and chipped away at the vegetables. They even gave me lemon ice cream to end the meal. Wow! Thank you to the wonderful staff there!

    Off to Israel this morning, and it started to rain. Was a little worried and thought about taking a taxi to the shuttle after all. Like yesterday though, it didn't last long so I was able to revert to my original plan to take the bus to the tourist area to catch the bus from there. It was a bit nerve racking and another test of trust.

    The picture of the stop was different, and I expected a stand there. As it turns out, like the other buses, you simply pay your 9 euros to the driver when you get on. Definitely get to the stop early so you know you haven't missed it. Thankfully I knew I could take the next shuttle if something did go wrong.
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  • Day 23

    Tel Aviv

    January 31, 2019 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Country #3 on this trip, and I will be home in just over a month. Funny how we break up the time. A bit of admin day for me which a wise friend said I should take, especially on long trips. Sometimes we need a day to just chill, relax and do little.

    Getting through Israel customs was actually very smooth, no questions asked. I did have to wait about half an hour though and it felt like the line wasn't moving at all. I'd originally thought about taking the train and then a bus to the hotel, but heard rumors of 8 hour interrogations, and decided to book a transfer as I also didn't want to lug my stuff around. The drive was pretty quick until we got into the city. What I also remember is the strong air freshener in the car, and how it and the speed on the way made me feel a little green.

    With 2 extra days before my tour started, I booked another hotel just around the corner. It was smaller and more sparse than I imagined, though arguably I had just left a fantastic hotel. Room was comfortable though, and I had time to hit the beach and wander through the nearby Carmel Market while waiting for a spot to open up at a nearby laundromat.

    Things are more expensive in Tel Aviv, making the conversion tricky in my head. Luckily we're not here too long so I can stretch the budget later. The market wasn't too busy as most places had closed up for the night. The beginning section is general goods followed by fruits & vegetables, candy, spices and local items.

    Back at the laundromat, I waited a little while for a machine to free up, then I took a seat and waited. In my head, I had visions of hanging out at a laundromat and working on my script as I waited. Well, this place was quite small and as I had a small load, I was in and out in about 45 minutes, not really time to get into my script even though I did bring it with me. Perhaps next time. Otherwise, it might be something to do on my Saturday in Jerusalem when everything is closed ;)
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  • Day 24

    Tel Aviv: Packing It in in 27 km

    February 1, 2019 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Packed in quite a few sights today as I heard most places would be closed the next day as it was going to be Sabbath. Started my walk up to and down the beautiful Rothschild Boulevard. I've noticed the city is quite green. There are numerous bikes and e-scooters, as well as parks and giant recycling cages for hard plastics. You'll even find a few rope hammocks and bean bag chairs if you just want to hang out.

    Out the end of the Rothschild Blvd is one of the city's auditoriums. From there, I stumbled upon a flea market only open Tuesdays and Fridays, you'll find antiques and lots of clothing booths. A stone's throw away is the Sarona Market. It reminds me of Granville Island back home with the variety of food places with an artsy vibe. With three apartment towers above the market and a good sized park outside, it feels like a great community .to live in.

    From there, Azrieli Center is a short walk away. If you go up the tower, you'll get panoramic views of the city. The restaurant was closed but we could still go up to see the view. At 22 Shekels (about $5.50 Euro) it's alright. The mall itself is interesting, there's a Miniso as soon as you get to the 1st floor on the escalator. There's also a good outdoor area to have lunch on the 3rd floor. Me? I took time to enjoy my sandwich from Sarona here.

    Onwards to Rabin Square where city hall is located. I would hear the story of Rabin the next day from our guide, but otherwise enjoyed the large space and saw the Holocaust Memorial as well. Oh, also picked up Israeli ice cream from a place called Iceberg along the way. They're known for having some pretty crazy flavors here, but I settled for mango and passionfruit with coconut milk. Hoping to progress as the trip goes along if I can remember which ice cream places are great where.

    Off to Diezengoff Square then where I came across the most memorable busker ever. Imagine hearing a funky drum set playing to prerecorded music, and imagine the musician being a man who was probably in his 70s if not older. Super talented, one can't help but sit down and take in a few songs. Everyone passing by was appreciative, leaving the man a tip. And he was a great time himself, not ever missing a beat.

    When I finally tore myself away, I popped into the nearby Dizengoff Center for a washroom break. The guard at the entrance (they're at the entrance of every mall here) chatted with me about the politics in Canada, strange but ok. I also found a shop for an Israeli jewelry designer I'd read about. At first, I was hoping to find a store in Azrieli and couldn't, so had actually given up. Didn't end up buying anything but still, a beautiful shop to visit.

    Back on the road, I stopped in my tracks when I saw a Korean shaved ice & bubble tea shop. Of course I had to poke my head in. I think I ended up chatting to the owner as I was looking at the menu. The bubble tea menu was sparse (I live in Vancouver after all!) and I think the shaved ice was shaved ice and not shaved milk. The store is new though and not run by Koreans, so we talked about expanding their menu and using flavor syrups instead of powders. I was also looking for green tea with syrups. He openly welcomed the suggestions, so perhaps soon, the menu will be more extensive.

    Continuing down King George V street, I made my way back to the Carmel Market, it looked busy and crowded, and having been there the night before, I opted to take the other road, home of the Nachalat Binyamin market that is packed with artists and craftspersons. Shoppers will love it here and probably go home with a few items. Memorable artists included a glass blower. You could also hear talented musicians but not quite as riveting as the senior drummer earlier.

    I decided to continue south towards Neve Tzedek to check out another fountain at a museum. At this point, I didn't realize that places where closing up due to Sabbath. The museum was closed so I just wandered the neighborhood before returning to the hotel.

    For dinner I'd hoped to try the sabich (sandwich with fried eggplant and hard boiled egg) but many places were closed by now. Oops, did manage to find a falafel place not too far away to have a simple night and early night in. Time to rest the feet.
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  • Day 25

    Old Jaffa and more chilling by the beach

    February 2, 2019 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Checked out of my hotel and into the next one for the group tour. Thought I was a bit of a smart cookie by picking a place just around the corner =) Today being Sabbath, a lot of places are closed, but I am headed to old Jaffa for a free tour with Sandeman's Tours. They run free walking tours in a number of European cities. Basically you tip your guide at the end of the tour, though same suggest you can put in what you feel it's worth. It's always worth more than the tip so bigger groups make it worth their while more.

    Our guide explained quite a bit of history about Old Jaffa, walking us through the old gates and showing us a picture of Tel Aviv before it existed. Jaffa is originally an Arab city that's been around 4000 years. It is said that Jonah from the bible was swallowed up here and there's a Greek legend about Andromeda being sacrificed here as well.

    There's a few sites to see here including St Peter's Church, Catholic and one of 2 west facing churches in Israel). Abrasha Park gives you a sweeping view of Tel Aviv and there's a wishing bridge nearby as well, where you touch your zodiac sign, look at the sea and make your wish. You'll also find Simon the Tanner's house (though it's not much to see) as well as Egyptian pillars from Ramses II. The port is neat to explore as well and there's quite a few galleries around. If you like antiques, there's a flea market as well.

    I also came across a place, Bamboo, that puts your cold pressed juice into glass bottles. A little more expensive than other stalls, I really appreciated not having needed to use one more plastic cup. Unsure of whether I could take the bottle with me, they assured me I could. After finishing the refreshing fresh orange juice, I did bring the bottle back. I have a feeling the prices are higher because of the bottle. Would be nice if they gave you a few shekels back for returning the glass =)

    A leisurely stroll back to the hotel and trying to find a late lunch, before hanging out on the beach til sunset. I have really loved the sunsets in Tel Aviv, all stunning as the sun drops into the sea.
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  • Day 26

    Old Jaffa Take 2

    February 3, 2019 in Israel ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Started my G Adventures tour last night, this be #12 if you count the combo trips as one. A medium sized group of 11. Today we set off first to Rabin Square where our guide recounted the history of Israel from the 12 tribes to the diaspora to the Persians, the Byzantines, the Romans and the Crusaders, and the Persians again, though don't quote me on that order, to the more recent times and issues towards Palestine. A bit of a long story to write out here but fascinating.

    Next stop, back to Old Jaffa for a bit of history, but mostly we had free time to explore for a bit. I made St Peter's my first stop since it had been closed the day before. You know how we forget the day of the week when we travel? I forgot today was Sunday and there was mass going on. We wondered why there was singing in English when we opened the door. A quick loop around a few places based on my memory from yesterday before hopping on the bus to leave Tel Aviv. I was very glad to have done the walking tour the day before as there was more details and story, some perhaps not true but I still remember the tale.

    We made a surprise stop by the aquaduct in Caeserea, still beautiful by the Mediterrean Sea before continuing on to have lunch in a Druze family home. The Druze are one of the minorities in the State of Israel, and they have a closed religion, no one in and if someone marries outside the religion, they're banished. The homes in the Druze village were beautiful and came with stunning views of the mountains and city below. Lunch was a delicious affair by our hostess, and the dessert was simply delicious. They call in Lebanese nights, I may attempt this for Thanksgiving or Christmas this year.

    Two stops after lunch, we headed to Haifa, our stop for the night, but first, the Bahi'a Gardens which is a place of worship for another group here. We could only access the top 2 levels of the gardens but at the top, you got a great view of the .city right down to the port. It almost reminds me of Lombard Street in San Francisco.The view at night from the bottom looking up is also stunning.

    We then made our way to the Stella Maris Monastery situated over what is believed to be Elijah's Cave. Beautiful inside though we didn't linger too long before making our way to the hotel. Our rooms on the 17th floor were great and included panoramic views of the city.

    About half of just met up for dinner tonight. We ended up going to Fattoush in the German Colony where some of us decided to share 4 appetizers, which turned out to be a great idea given portion sizes and the ability to try several dishes. Delicious!
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