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Into Ancient History
  • Rita Yee
Jan – Mar 2019

Into Ancient History

Exploring Egypt, Cyprus, Israel and Turkey Read more
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  • Trip start
    January 9, 2019
    Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Travel Day: Vancouver >Cairo

    January 9, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    The flight plan for this trip: Vancouver>Toronto>Frankfurt>Cairo on an Air Canada/Lufthansa combination. I've done the Vancouver-Toronto leg many times, but this would be a first stop into Frankfurt, and of course, Cairo itself. This trip also marks the first time I've flown with Lufthansa, though I've always wanted to try, it's just not worked out in the past.

    A bit of a bumpier than usual ride to Toronto, I take it as due to the weather. A Dreamliner over the Atlantic to Frankfurt, but I found the flight a little warm. One of the windows was also funny, glowing blue while the rest were dark, and then purple while the rest were blue. Didn't spot the pyramids on our descent into Cairo, but I didn't expect to.

    The visa on arrival process is very simple. Head to the counter next to the bank counter, put down $25USD to receive your sticker. Then take your sticker to immigration, where you should put it in your passport. My arrival transfer rep found me at this point, how they pick us out of the crowd, I will never know. I suppose there probably aren't too many foreigners coming off the plane, but still, it's a bit trippy.

    The rest of the arrival process was smooth and after a quick stamp at immigration, it was off to pick up my backpack. Traffic was inching along bumper to bumper and even at a standstill at certain times. It's "Friday night" in Egypt, as they take Friday and Saturday off, and I happened to arrive on Thursday night, aka 'Friday night' if you know what I mean. Despite the traffic, it's actually a good thing, but more on that later on.

    It took about an hour and a half to get to the hotel. There's a few sites to see along the way, but I nodded off here and there due to the travel. Jetlag wise, not bad, crashed at a normal hour and out like a lightbulb. My room was on the cold side, so i pulled out the extra blanket and slept in my hoodie and woolly socks, while scrunched up in a ball trying to keep warm. Outside, the horns are blaring, but somehow I'm able to tune them out.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Gezira

    January 11, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    With a few hours between my 2 Urban Adventures tours today, I headed nearby to the Cairo Tower on Gezira for a panoramic view of the city. Our driver was kind enough to drop my nearby, saving me precious time. The view was good, but the newly increased admission felt a bit high, though some would argue it's comparable to other buildings around the world.

    Next, off to the neighborhood of Zamalek, location on the north end of the island. It's been described as an area for more affluent folks, and several embassies, including Nigeria are you. You'll know it's an embassy if it's a really cool building you want a photo of, but the guards to wave you off. It's true, it happened twice today...maybe if I were quicker on the draw.

    There's a few streets of interest and exploration, one block some pretty neat mosaics. I also read about a skin care line named after Nefetari, but I didn't end up finding the store as it was time to start heading back to meet for my second tour. Maybe I'll come across it later.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Giza Pyramids & Egyptian Museum

    January 13, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Off to the pyramids of Giza today! They're quite close to the city so it's a fairly short drive. There were a few busloads of tourists but nothing crazy. We got ample time to walk around and take our pyramid photos. The main one we're told is to pretend you're holding the top of the pyramid. At the Great Pyramid (Cheops). you can go inside for 360 LE, but there's nothing to see. For the experience of going in itself, we were advised better to save our money and pay 60LE at the second pyramid instead.

    The second pyramid belongs to the son of Cheops' son. According to tradition, he couldn't build a pyramid bigger than than his father's, so to compensate, he built his smaller pyramid on higher ground, so it you look at the pyramids in a line, it actually looks as tall as the first one. You can see the pyramids line up at a viewpoint, but it was quite dusty out, so it's a bit hard to see.

    After the pyramids, it was off to see the Sphinx on the side of the complex. The guardian of the burial area, it was really cool to see this man head on the body of a lion. There's a sound and light show in the evenings as well, and is supposed to be the best in the country.

    We had some free time in the afternoon, and most of us went to the Egyptian Museum. It is being relocated once the new building is built, but we still got to wander through a lot of exhibits of sarcophaguses, burial masks, perfume bottles, mummies and more.

    Tonight, it was off the train station for an overnight train to Aswan. There's something rustic about travelling by trains in this part of the world, giving us a feeling that we were travelling as folks did decades ago when they visited this exotic land.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Aswan Afternoon

    January 14, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We arrived at Aswan train station this morning and headed to the lovely Isis Hotel, right on the Nile. Our rooms weren't ready yet, so we headed off to explore a bit. Not quite knowing where things were, we were keen to explore. There's a lot of boatmen and vendors calling out for his to hire feluccas as we walked by the water. A few are a bit persistent but most leave you alone when you say no thank you.

    Along the walk, we spotted what looked like a mosque atop a small hill. According to my map, it was the Nubian cataract. There weren't any other visitors there, except for us and an older couple. We were invited to have a look inside the mosque, I was admittedly a little nervous as the doors were all closed and they opened one to let us in. I know I shouldn't feel that way, but it's been a bit ingrained in us. My new friend from the door stepped inside, while I waited by the door just in case. The inside of the mosque though was quiet and beautiful.

    From there, we set off to find the market. The souk is long and lots of vendors vied for attention. No hassle, no charge to look echoed around us. People asked where we were from. The fruits and vegetables market for the locals was calmer as we could simply pass through.

    For lunch, we went to Aswan Moon, a restaurant along the river that I had found on Wikitravel. They didn't have a few options on the menu, but the grilled fish I ended up getting was quite tasty. The manager was from Sudan and we had some interesting conversations. He even wrote our names out in Arabic.

    After lunch, we set off to the Fryal Gardens, a serene section of green by the river. Admission is 10LE. There were families there as well, and you get a nice view of the Nile along with Elephantine Island. We did a fairly quick loop around before setting off to the Unfinished Obelisk.

    The route on the map took us into a poorer part of town where the streets were more sandy than road. Definitely a different side of Aswan that perhaps not too many see. When we got to the Obelisk, nobody was there. It was a bit eerie having this pile of rock all to ourselves and a few watchmen. As you stand high above the quarry, you can see the city beyond, as if behind a veil between ancient times and modern.

    With no other visitors nearby, there were no taxi's to take back to the hotel though we still had enough time to walk back to meet the group at 4pm for our motorboat tour and Nubian dinner. It was still a distance though so we ended up flagging down a tuk tuk. While a fun ride, perhaps not the best idea as the drivers don't appear to speak English even though they were fairly young. We thought we'd agreed on a price, but when they stopped to let us off (after attempting to drive in circles), the amount they wanted was 4 times what we'd agreed to. The driver was quiet, but his friend who'd hopped on to help with directions was the one who wanted more. We were close enough to our hotel at this point, and also stopped in front of a shop, where the shopkeeper came out to see what was going on.

    This is one prime example to always have small bills and be firm. We explained to him the situation. Funny enough, we had discussed leaving a tip above the agreed fare. After a few rounds, the shopkeeper decided to stay out of it. No need to fear though, we were in a safe area, and I held out the original amount plus the little. "Take it or we're leaving". The driver came around at this point, and accepted this. Whew.

    Tonight we visited a Nubian family on Elephantine Island, and had a nice walk around the village. One of the ladies had her birthday so they also had cake.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Abu Simbel & Philae

    January 15, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    5am call today for Abu Simbel, almost all of us signed up for this option, and piled onto a minibus to make the 3hr drive south. When we arrived, there was a lot of buses there making this site the busiest so far.

    Everyone stopped for the token photos of the temple before a brief talk and free time. The site itself was amazing, as was the hearing the efforts of the relocation itself to save and preserve it when they made Lake Nasser. To the right of the temple, Ramses II had a temple built for his wife, Queen Nefetari. You can visit inside both temples where the walls are covered with hieroglyphics.

    I recommend going to the temple for Nefetari first to avoid the crowds. When you come back to the main temple, you'll be able to get photos with smaller crowds if any.

    Back in town, we joined the rest of our group for yummy and cheap falafel sandwiches before rushing off to Philae, where a temple dedicated to the goddess Isis was relocated to an island. We'd originally wanted to visit it during the sound and light show at night, but the logistics of getting there and the possibility of cancellation if there were low numbers deterred us. We could've booked the package through our tour leader, but we opted not to.

    It was some negotiations with the taxi driver and boatman, but we seemed to do alright. The taxi driver took us to and from to the temple for 150LE (including the wait), while the boat was 200LE. Certainly if you had a bigger group, the cost is less per person. But still, it was only a little more than our other friends had previously gotten the day before. Funny thing, when we bought our tickets, they said they didn't have enough change, and we asked a local, and he said he had no change even though you could clearly see it. We were fresh out of small bills after paying for admission and resigned ourselves to the fact that we'd likely have to give the taxi driver 200LE instead. But he was good and got us there before ticket sales closed, so it was all fine and dandy.

    Back to Philae, the temple is also beautiful, looking out from the island. The ruins pose fantastic photo opportunities all around, and you could easily spend an hour or so just wandering and having a sit down. Definitely worth going to, and I'm glad we did end up getting to see it.

    For dinner, it was time to cross off another Egyptian dish off our list, "fiteer" or Egyptian pizza. It's folder over like a calzone, but still perfectly round, and the crust is flaky, almost like a croissant. I'd read about Pizza Biti near the train station and we set off there. Ordering take out, a medium cost 100LE and it was a near perfect portion, and we enjoyed it by the pool of the hotel. A fun inexpensive dinner with a view, and sort of a sound and light show. The Movenpick building across was lit up and changed colors, while a passing boat pumped out music.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Nile Sailing and a Nubian Homestay

    January 16, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    Late start and lie in today. I got some camel pants from the market and tried to catch up on my blogging before we set sail on our felucca. I think I've been more successful than the previous trips and am fairly current =)

    So the felucca, an open boat that moves by wind power, though I think they have a small engine. There's a roof over the main area but it's otherwise open. Mats cover the floor and the crew's provided cushions, blankets and sleeping bags (for hire) for the day and a half trip.

    We had some good wind and sun today, so that made hanging out on the roof inviting, though we had to watch our heads when the captain shifted the sails. In the evening, we docked on the West Bank of the Nile to stay with a Nubian family for the night. It was a bit late when we arrived so we didn't see much in terms of the village. This was first homestay where we all stayed in the same house.

    Nubian houses here are rooms surrounding a large courtyard. We had three rooms to share where mattresses are lined up along the floor and then hung out in the main sitting/dining area where we had a lovely family style meal including soup, lamb sausage and vegetables. After dinner, we played clapping games with some of the children. It was a really nice change from the cultural shows at previous homestays. Tonight it almost felt like we were visiting and sleeping over at a friend's place.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    A Day on the Nile

    January 17, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    This morning we awoke early and got some exercise in playing "piggy in the middle" with some local kids. The ball was a bit flat, but the joy of playing and the smiles on their faces really reminded us that the best things in life are very simple.

    Breakfast was delicious, falafels, pitas, eggs and french fries! And the we were back on our felucca. It was a windy and thus cold feeling day, but we didn't get far in our boat. Why? The wind was blowing the wrong way, and if the sails were up, we would've been back in Aswan. So we bobbed in the Nile, as fast or as slow as the current could carry us. We probably turned more in circles than we travelled downriver.

    The weather did get warmer for another hang out on the roof of the felucca, We'd hoped the weather would stay warm for the night since we'd be sleeping on board "under the stars". Not much luck there, but the crew wrapped cloth around the outside so it did cut some of the wind and the night wasn't too bad (though some people would probably disagree with me).

    I'd hoped to do some writing while we sailed, but alas, my brain wasn't in it. The trip is still young though and I'm still determined to get a few pages in.    Read more

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    Luxor Explorations

    January 18, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    We awoke to the sound of morning prayers this morning. The initial call was fairly nice and peaceful but soon the mass of different prayers echoed around us. Outside, the deck was strangely dry, no morning dew as I padded out in my wooly socks. If not for the temperature, I think it would've been very nice, not that it wasn't.

    Our crew provided another tasty breakfast, this time including pancakes as we drifted slightly further down river to a waiting van that would drive us the rest of the way to Luxor (4 hours given how little distance we'd covered the day before.

    The city itself is smaller than Cairo and Aswan and we found it quite pleasant to walk around until the hassling began. Luxor after all is the hassling capital of the world. Not to waste the day, we dropped our bags at the hotel and headed out to Karnak Temple, a stunning complex and stories that we'll remember even if the names require a little googling. We had some free time to explore, I wish we had a bit more time here.

    After that, back to town and a quick stop at the jewelry store for some silver. Debated getting something and then passed. (Only to wish the next day I'd gotten something and then thinking if and when I would actually wear it. Oh well, next time). We passed through the souk to get back to our hotel and the hassles arose. Pretty much every shop wanted you to look at their stuff. Even though we've gone through this at Aswan, this took it to the next level. We managed to escape unscathed, save for the bottle of sand art that I was wanting to get anyway.

    Group dinner out tonight at Al Sahaby Lane Restaurant, tried the camel burger and Oum Ali for dessert. The burger was good, but the dessert gets a pass. Also couldn't resist fried cauliflower and lemonade with mind =)    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Valley of the Kings/Temple of Hatshepsut

    January 19, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ 🌫 4 °C

    Off to the West Bank today to visit the Valley of the Kings. Photos are very limited unless you buy the photo ticket for 300 LE. As our entry ticket only included 3 tombs, I opted out and spent 250 LE instead to visit the tomb of King Tut where his mummy lies in an environment controlled glass (or some other clear material) box. But let's save Tut for later.

    The valley was hidden for a long time from the general public back then to protect the tombs of the kings from looters, but these tombs required a lot of workers. So how was it kept a secret for so long? Well, we tossed around a few (and cruel) ideas, but it turns out the 1st king built a village on the far side of the valley for the artisans, workers and their families so that they could live there and never return to the East Bank to tell anyone.

    I think the Valley of the Kings has one of the best visitor centres. There's a full model showing the valley and the locations of the tombs underneath so you could see how deep and how long each was. Today, we would visit the tombs of Tausert/Setnakht, Ramses III and Merenptah. Each of these tombs had colored hieroglyphics in their tunnels and burial chambers, some still quite vivid. My favorite was that of Ramses III, there was just something about the decor in the tunnel leading down into the chamber.

    The story of Tausert and Setnakht is an interesting one. Long story short, Queen Tausert first rested there, and Setnakht was cutting his tomb somewhere else, when he ran into a problem where this tomb would break through the walls of another king, so he looked nearby and decided to take over that of Tausert. Merenptah would later cut his tomb from where Setnakht originally left off, but shifted the tunnel over as to not break the wall of another tomb. At least, that's what my memory recalls. Our guide also trained as an Egyptologist so he was full of information.

    Leaving the Valley of the Kings, we headed to the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, another impressive complex where we had plenty of time to wander. Where we hadn't taken photos of colored hieroglyphics earlier, we certainly could here.    Read more

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    Luxor Temple at Night

    January 19, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Returning from the West Bank, we were free to explore the rest of the day, and did we pack it in! I had a craving for McDonald's french fries, and then we browsed through Aboudi Bookshop next door which had a number of neat souvenirs and a great book selection.

    We then wandered down the corniche (path along the Nile) to the Winter Palace, popping into a few shops along the way. The hassles are constant annoyingly with guys offering feluccas or wanting to chat you up and follow you for a bit, but it's more manageable with two people than if one were wandering on their own.

    The Winter Palace is a fancy-ish old hotel, like the Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan. I'd read it was a great place to have a drink and watch the sunset. I think the writer was probably there at a different time of the year though as we checked out the view and sun appeared to be dipping behind some trees. With that, we skipped the drinks and headed right down to the corniche and found ourselves a spot to watch sunset and try a time lapse on the go pro. What we'd hoped would just be a peaceful viewing was interrupted by the constant conversation by one local man and then another. Imagine trying to invent a boyfriend and giving fake names to fend them off!

    As soon as the sun disappeared, we headed off to Luxor Temple. Our guide had mentioned the best time to go was around 5pm, just as natural light was disappearing and the artificial light was coming up. This way you could still see the details in natural light and appreciate the beauty of the night views. It took a little while to find the ticket office as it's tucked away just below street level and there was still a number of people streaming in and wandering about.

    We got a little addicted to the multitudes of columns and took many photos. For once, it was nice not to be on a time constraint and wander as long as we wanted. Some of the lights weren't on yet, so we turned on the flashlights and admired some of the hieroglyphics in two "alcoves", giving us a very different experience than all the previous temples. It felt like how early archaeologists must have felt when they first came across the temple and they had no light but that of candles or torches.

    By the time we left, much of the crowd was gone and more lights were turned on. Luxor Temple was a place we could have just continued to linger. I suspect given the opportunity, we would have liked to have done the same at all the other temples on this trip.    Read more

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    Hurghada Relaxation

    January 20, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We left ancient Egypt and the Nile behind today. Traveling eastwards, we set our sights on the Red Sea beach resort of Hurghada where we'd be spending the next two nights at an all inclusive (but it's not quite like the all inclusives that one would find in Mexico or the Caribbean). The green fertile lands by the Nile became barren desert and rocks before waters glistened again in front of us.

    Our hotel is part of a set of properties, Empire Hotel. They have a property by the beach that we can access, but our building is otherwise a few minutes further inland. The neighborhood is really quiet, perhaps out of season as it's not so hot that visitors are flocking here. Dinner and breakfast is a buffet affair but nothing too exciting, drinks aren't even included. Nevertheless we were excited to be on the water the next day and snorkelling.    Read more

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    Red Sea Snorkelling/Beach Day

    January 21, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A day of doing almost nothing but relaxing and hanging out. Our bus picked us up bright and early for a drive to the marina where a boat waited to take us to Mahmya Beach on Giftun Island. The marina was in a different part of town that had more people in it as well as shops, so we wished we were closer here so we could venture out at night.

    The beach is about a 45 minute ride from the mainland, and then a smaller boat transferred us to the beach due to the shallow waters. Some of us would stay on the beach on sunrise while the rest hopped back on the boat later in the morning for snorkelling. The water was cool but not too cold, but I only stayed in for a few seconds as the lifejacket (I'm not a strong swimmer) was too big, hindering my swimming and the snorkel mask didn't fit properly. Bummer...but my tour mates who did swim out farther saw quite a few fish. From where I was, the water was definitely calmer and prettier than when I was last at the Red Sea in Aqaba in 2014.

    After lunch, my roommate and I went for a walk along the water. There were some pretty shells but there are clear signs forbidding shells and sand .to be removed. Alas, we could only take pictures. Time flew quickly and our day drew to a close before we knew it. On the boat ride back, a few of us settled down at the front of the boat. Cue Titanic moment "I'm flying, Jack!" There's a spot you can stand and get a cheesy photo taken. Yes I did and no, you'll unlikely ever see that photo =P

    More photos to come...having issues getting photos off my phone    Read more

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    Back to Cairo

    January 22, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ 🌫 10 °C

    Back to the hustle and bustle of Cairo today. We had a lovely, if long 6 hr, drive along the Red Sea back to Cairo. We were lucky to have this beautiful view for much of the day before having to turn inland. Back from the barren Eastern Desert and then the chaotic streets of Cairo. Gridlock, honking, the complete opposite of our beach side bliss.

    We only had one included activity today, visiting the Khan El Kalili bazaar. 500 years and counting, this is Egypt's (?) oldest bazaar and today mostly caters to tourists. You can find all sorts of souvenirs here, but be prepared to bargain as much of it is, according to our guide "low quality or no quality". There is still some hassling, but people are friendlier and we have our Aswan and Luxor experiences to draw from. I surprisingly didn't buy anything, I've bought very little on this trip as a matter of fact, though I seem to have realized I wanted to get something once we left that city. Oops. I've clearly forgotten the see it, like it, buy it rule when travelling as it's unlikely or difficult to retrace your steps. Whatever you're looking for, chances are it's here. Glass bottles, sand art, t-shirts, statues, keychains, bookmarks, oh and jewelry of course.

    On our drive later to the hotel, we would catch glimpses of the biggest local market where the locals shop for things from clothes, shoes, and hangbags to second hand items. It was quite the spread and crowd, a scene we watched from a bridge above.

    Dinner a low key affair, we checked out a nearby shawarma place near the hotel that was recommended, got take out and dessert to take back to our room for some Netflix.    Read more

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    Hello Alexandria

    January 23, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ 🌫 10 °C

    Leaving Cairo again, this time, northwards towards the Alexandria and the Mediterranean Sea. No more pyramids or ancient sites as we start hurtling through time up until the present. Named after Alexander the Great, we were looking forward to the change in pace and style. There are no tourist markets here so you get less harassed. You can even walk along the Corniche in peace.

    We only have 1 included activity today, the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa. No pictures are allowed, but it was an interesting visit as we descended below ground. This used to be the private catacombs for a local wealthy family and was discovered (like in the Valley of the Kings) by a donkey who fell into a shaft. There are several chambers to explore and you can see art mixing Greek and Egyptian beliefs.

    Free time this afternoon after checking into our hotel. I rarely write about hotels, but the Misr Hotel is a hidden gem on the 9th and 10th floor of a building you would probably not walk into. There's a story to come later. But yes, don't judge this book by its cover. All our rooms had windows overlooking the Mediterrean Sea, and we also had a balcony that you could step out and look at the sea as well. The room was pretty nice, the only thing to note that the noise doesn't stay out though, and similar to other Egyptian cities, the traffic continues well into the night.    Read more

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    The Quest for Ice Cream

    January 23, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Free time in Alexandria, and lots of stories to tell - eventful, so bear with me as we get through Alexandria together. We probably had too much free time in Alexandria. I would've liked to have gone to Montazah Palace (which is included with the comfort tour), but wasn't quite up to figuring out to get there on my own. One lady on our tour would manage this the next day and had quite the adventure and fun times.

    I'd read about Alexandrian ice cream and was super keen to try it. Apparently it's only made here and Greece. It's like soft serve but "stretchy", and super yummy. The best places to try it are actually out by the citadel aka Qait Bey on the far end of the Corniche. It looked far from our hotel, but in actuality was only 2.5 km. We grabbed a quick lunch of falafels first from Gad's nearby, eating by the water. One of our tourmates joined us, but wasn't too keen on walking that distance. She would decide to take a horse carriage ride, but more on that later, while my roommate and I continued on.

    Our hotel manager was quite funny when we asked about how long it would take to walk to the citadel. He said we should go right away because it was closing soon, but when we explained we were after the ice cream, he gave us a big smile and "ah ha", yes you are smart to know where the ice cream is! It's the best and we should go to Azzaz and have the vanilla flavor. His recommendation was spot on and made it a lovely afternoon before the evening drama that would later unfold.

    The employees at Azzaz were super friendly and happy to have foreign vistors, they gave us cones on top of the ice cream we'd wanted in cups. If you're in the area, stop by. I think there are 2-3 locations, we went to the went just on a corner near Cafe Azzaz which looks quiet.    Read more

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    Beware: Of Horse Carriages & Knifefights

    January 23, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Okay, drama time. Note, all's well that ended as well as it could have, but this is one evening no leader would ever want.

    Let's start with the lady who went on the horse carriage ride. It was supposed to be an hour. We left her just before 4pm and no one had seen her. Strange and worrying as she'd inquired about being dropped off at the hotel after. I had a picture of her and the driver, but it's only a false comfort. What to do...

    Then back in our room, I get a message on Facebook from another girl on our tour. She asked if we were at the hotel, which we were. She said, good. Don't go out, there's something happening in our lobby. I didn't know what was going on and whether she meant the building lobby or the hotel lobby. I checked the hotel lobby but all was calm, so my roommate and I sat there waiting for the lady who'd gone with the carriage.

    Moments later, our tour leader hurried past us. Strange we thought, what was going on? Minutes later (and some recapping) we found out what was happening. Some locals were gathered in the lobby of the building (I did say it looked sketchy looking), arguments ensued a knife was pulled. Boy, our safety travel bubble was popped. I can't begin to imagine the scene that unfolded. But it was distressing enough for the rest of the girls to call the tour leader and ask if he could escort them up. Needless to say, they didn't go out again that night.

    Time goes by, our carriage friend still had not turned up. We made the choice to knock on the tour leader's tour to voice our concern, but he has no way to contact her. We'd find out later she didn't bring her phone either. But there was little we could do but wait. When we saw her later, about 730, you cannot imagine our relief. Apparently the carriage driver had gotten "lost" and took her around the city, even trying to get her into shops, his place, and a restaurant for dinner! On top of that, she now owed him $50 US instead of the $5 US, wow, scammer! So friends, please do not get into a carriage and if your companion is considering it, discourage them like we should have done. If you want a carriage ride, it sounds like Aswan or Luxor is the place.

    In the end, our tour leader brought down 300 Egyptian pounds to the driver who was waiting downstairs because the lady didn't have that much cash with her. A good thing, so he has to take her back to the hotel if he were to get paid. 300 Egyptian pounds is about $18 US. The guy refused at first because of the difference, citing a 6hr ride (which made no logical sense) and that he had bought her dinner and beers (a lie, she paid for dinner and he the beers). Luckily we had our fearless tour leader, who talked him down starting with the discrepancy in time. We left her before 4, it wasn't even 8pm, how could it be 6 hours?    Read more

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    More in Alexandria

    January 24, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    A few more included activities today: The Citadel at Qait Bey for photos, The El-Mursi Abul-Abbas Mosque and of course the Library of Alexandria. Those on the lookout for the Alexandria lighthouse will be disappointed as it was damaged over several earthquakes before disappearing in 1480. Today, the Citadel of Qait Bey sits above the ruins. Our tour leader is an Egyptologist and gave us the lesson on recent Egyptian history. No more pharoahs and pyramids, but rather the invasion of the Turks and another chapter in Egyptian history. At the mosque, he explained the 5 pillars of Islam.

    Next stop, Biblioteca Alexandrina (www.bibalex.org for a fantastic virtual and literary visit). The original library is no longer than but the new modern one is a sight to behold. It's part of a giant learning complex including a planetarium and numerous displays. It is an architectural beauty designed for natural light and an airiness that there is still greatness to be learned and discovered. Our visit was every too brief even though we did get 15 minutes more.

    More free time to wander around again (probably would've been good to get out to Montazah Palace & Gardens, but it was a bit of work as no transport goes though and we were tired of bargaining for anything, including taxis). No more drama today as we veered off the Monument of the Unknown Soldier and found ourselves mixing with the locals in their markets. Shoes, clothes, purses, accessories, there are stall walls, just tables and tarps in the streets and sidewalks.

    Later on, we would get to the Roman Theater (surprisingly close to the hotel), then a city park and the train station. Our walk also took us back past the football stadium we'd seen on our first day. No tourists anywhere, all locals as we followed our feet before turning back towards the water onto a street of restaurants.

    Tonight, we simply sat on the rock wall of the Corniche, looking out at the Mediterranean. The night city came alive as locals emerged and sat with us, soaking it all in. Our time in Egypt is coming to an end.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    El Alamein, a mark of the end

    January 25, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Last day in Egypt, one more activity. The military museum and the cemetery at El Alamein to commemorate the soldiers who died in the war. A sombre of ending the tour. The grounds are eerily quiet but peaceful, as the sounds of birds chirping fills the air.

    It was straight back to Cairo after, and off to Cyrpus for me. A 450am flight meant leaving the hotel at 1am.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Egypt in Review

    January 26, 2019 in Egypt ⋅ 🌫 17 °C

    What a past 2ish weeks in Egypt. It jumped out of my bucket list just a short 2 months ago. I'd always wanted to visit but the 2011 revolution put those plans on hold. I'm very glad I've been visited and seen these monuments that survived through time. Photos really don't do it justice, you just have to be here.

    This was the first time I've travelled with Intrepid. Granted, it's different than G, but the trip was fine. I'm curious to try the next level up (Original) to see how it compares. One of the reasons for going with Intrepid was the itinerary. This is the one of very tours that really takes you everywhere but the desert. I hadn't heard of Hurghada before, and it was a pleasant day by the sea. Alexandria was really the one I was hoping to have included rather than tacking a very expensive option.

    I didn't shop a lot, not that I usually do, but that's ok. I navigated the crazy traffic and shooed of hasslers. I got to taste some yummy Egyptian food and the best falafels ever. Yes, ever!!! I've eaten too many to count. We've taken the overnight train, overnighted on a felucca. We didn't need a river cruise boat. I've enjoyed all the temples and pyramids, Karnak, Abu Simbel and Luxor were the best. And of course, getting to see the pyramids and the Sphinx!

    In Cairo, I did wander on my own despite friends telling me not to. A few worrying moments, not security but if I were getting ripped off, but everything turned out fine. Mohammed Ali mosque was stunning and Al Azhar Park was simply the best. If you have qualms about this country, it's pretty safe I think. But do go in an organized group, especially if you're female. And if you're lucky like us, you might even make a few Arabic speaking friends who help with communicating with the locals.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Welcome to Cyprus

    January 26, 2019 in Cyprus ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Perhaps not as much in your face ancient history as the other countries on this trip, but Cyprus has been around for a long time. Ancient settlements dot the island, and markings in the Troodos Mountains show this island was once under the sea.

    After just over 2 fairly intense ancient sightseeing in Egypt, I've got 5 days of peace and relaxation visiting a friend from previous travels in Cyprus. Unlike other destinations, I haven't done much research at all, just enough to build a simple itinerary: Larnaca, Nicosia, and Limassol. The last being a base for Troodos, Kourion and Paphos.

    There's a direct flight from Cairo to Larnaca, but I missed the morning arrival that I wanted, so took the long way (and a very early flight) via Athens instead. My friend picked me up from the airport and our first stop was coffee at the beach. Caffe Nero is right by the water, and it's large outdoor patio is simply divine in relaxing and just chilling on a Saturday morning.

    We went to a few other sites as well including the Salt Lake and the local mosque. In the evening, we strolled around the old town and along the beach before checking on Larnaca Castle.

    Foodwise I was in for a treat. My friend and I were spending the night at her parents' place, and her mom made a lovely lunch for us of chicken, fried potatoes and salad. Her cheesecake is also simply divine. For dinner, it was off to a local restaurant with more food than we could finish, hot and cold mezzes along with mostly meat dishes covered the table faster than we could enjoy it. And dessert? A milk-custard in filo dough that I am still thinking of while writing this up in Tel Aviv =)    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Nicosia: A Capital Divided

    January 27, 2019 in Cyprus ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    We spent the morning still in Larnaca, a lazy morning before checking out St Lazarus Church downtown. It dates back to the 9th century, and St Lazarus tomb is here as well. It's a beautiful but small place worth checking out.

    On our way back to the car, I got my first glimpse of souvenir shopping in Cyprus. Good thing I'm limited by my backpack and also knowing I still have to carry things for another 5 weeks! Soaps from olive oil and donkey milk, spices, sweets, jewelry galore! It definitely took a little will power.

    Homemade lunch again, this time, I think it's the makaronia tou fournou (but don't quote me on it, I will double check with my friend). A tasty pasta dish that sort of looks like lasagna that's oven baked with meat, bechamel sauce and cheese all over village pasta.

    After that, we headed for Nicosia, Cyprus' capital actually just a 30-35 minute drive away with no traffic. Wheras Larnaca was tranquil like a sleepy village, Nicosia is definitely city. We wandered a few of the main pedestrian streets down, poking our heads into shops, glancing through a check point to the occupied part of the island. It's a bit strange to see these spots in the middle of the street, but the officers are serious about checking. One lady wanted to bring her dog across and was met with "no". Didn't get to crossing the border, but for education purposes, one day I probably will.

    I think Nicosia and the island of Cyprus has been divided since 1974 since the Turks occupied the northern half of the island, partly due to resources. There is still some tension, but no skirmishes that I saw. It was strange though seeing the barbed wire near the Ledas Hotel (now home for the UN) and Turks just sitting on the other side having coffee.

    We also stopped by the Turkish bath, a serene establishment once you enter. Didn't get a treatment, but perhaps next time.

    A chill night in to just hang out.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Limassol, my base

    January 28, 2019 in Cyprus ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Monday means work for my friend, so I planned accordingly to move on to Limassol, Cyprus' 2nd largest city. Regular intercity buses make it very affordable and easy to move between cities here. 5 euros and an hour and a half later, I was back on the coast.

    At first glance, Limassol reminds me of any relaxed beach city. A beautiful long promenade allows people to fully enjoy being by the water. A number of beach resorts are clustered about 12km from the city center. My recommendation? Stay in the Old Town. I booked the Sir Paul Hotel for 3 nights and it is possibly the best hotel I've ever stayed in. I got a little distracted upon arrival so hear me out as I rave a little about this gem.

    Being off season, the price of the almost luxury room was a very affordable $160 CAD a night. It's spacious, comes with touch panel control for all your lighting and temperature needs. The waterfall shower was also amazing and so relaxing. The front desk is super helpful and the breakfast is lovely. Plus, there's a little balcony overlooking a pedestrian street below.

    With the help of the girl at the desk, I managed to get myself to Kolossi Castle (not quite exactly where I wanted to go - Kourion) but it was still fun. I almost had the place to myself and started experimenting with the timer on my camera to take non selfie photos. Nice and quiet out here as well.

    One more thing about Sir Paul, the location can't be beat. It's close to the bus stop for both local buses and intercity buses, and it's also within walking distance to the old town, the marina and even the Old Hospital where you catch buses to other nearby destinations, such as Kolossi Castle and the Troodos Mountains. Yes, you can take an hr and a half bus ride for the low price of 1.50 euro.

    In the evening, I wandered the streets the hotel before strolling down to the water for sunset. The clouds were a beautiful tint of pink, and sculptures along the promenade were getting lit up. I wound my way down to the marina before returning to the hotel to figure out what to do for dinner.

    I was feeling a bit lazy and didn't want to go far. Lucky for me, the #1 restaurant in the city (and price friendly) was actually just a few blocks away: Meze Taverna. Being Monday, it wasn't too busy and I ordered a traditional dish, eggplants stuffed with meat and covered with bechamel and sauce. One might say it's like a variation of the pasta dish I'd enjoyed the day before.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    A Day in the Mountains: Troodos

    January 29, 2019 in Cyprus ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    The Troodos Mountains are the highest peaks on Cyprus. Markings in the rock show how this was all once part of the sea bed. And the highest peak? Mount Olympus where the Greek Gods lived (or is there a Mount Olympic is Greece?)

    It's easy to catch the bus #64 from the Old Hospital bus station to here. Right now, there's only the one departure in the morning at 930am that departs the mountains at 3pm to bring you back. The bus number isn't listed on the timetable board, so it was a bit nerveracking especially as it got closer to and then past the scheduled time. Thankfully it did turn up as an old long distanced bus coach and we all piled in.

    The mountains aren't that far away, but the road is windy and we pass through several villages. A picturesque drive, the city gives way to rolling green fields, then valleys and mountainside villages. Given the elevation of the mountains, snow also came into view. The roads are clear, but there is about 2.5 of snow piled along the roadside. And it is cold. I kid you not.

    When we arrived at Troodos Square, the first order of business was putting my toque on and then finding out where Mt Olympus was. I was very glad that I hadn't booked a hiking tour as originally planned as I would never have made it, with the trail covered in snow. Instead I opted to walk along the road to Olympus. There are a few waterfalls in the area as well, but given the time we had, I picked what I picked.

    As I neared the top, the weather turned to be quite foggy, it was hard to see past 30 ft perhaps. I managed to get as far as I could go - a locked gate. Turns out there are military bases in the mountains. Still, I was as high as we could be, I learned from a local couple who drove up for some pictures. And not a bad way to get some exercise in.

    The trip down was definitely easier than up. I also stopped by Sun Valley, a very small ski spot that is a fraction of Whistler. Fog continued to bill and I was glad I went up when I did, as there's little to see now. Back in the square, I checked out a few of the shops before settling down for a much needed hot chocolate and lunch.

    Little else to do but wait for the return bus, however, instead of heading back to Limassol, i was going back to Nicosia for one more dinner with my friend. It was a bit nerve wracking trying the different route, especially when the 64 drove off. If the other bus didn't come, I'd likely be stranded on the mountain overnight (also not good, because I'd just booked a day tour for the next day).

    A local woman was waiting for the bus to Nicosia as well. She didn't speak English as we tried to communication about the bus. Here is where I got a little confused: Lefkosia/Nicosia, Lemesos/Limassol. Get it? Took me a while, but I finally figured it out. Tomayto tomahto. Luckily there were also a few people across the street waiting for the bus, and once the minibus arrived, 2 girls from Lithuania who confirmed our ride.

    The minibus was going to take us to a village nearby where we'd transfer to a large bus back to the city. Once we were on our way, it was just relief and trying to defrost from the cold. The drive back was really smooth and I got into the capital around 5pm. My friend wasn't off work yet, so I found a nice Starbucks to have a tea and read a book while I waited.

    A low key dinner of appies (she was still full) before we bid our farewells and I caught the last bus back to Limassol for the night. Quite the full day, but if you think about it, still not quite the go go go and time press that's demanding.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Kourion the Ancient City

    January 30, 2019 in Cyprus ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    After my location miss in getting to Kolossi Castle but not Kourion (I think the city sightseeing bus stops here normally...but not sure) and seeming a bit too far to walk, I was fortunate to find a last minute tour yesterday for Paphos & Kourion. Paphos was my original plan for the day so it worked out quite well.

    Our first stop of the day was the ancient city of Kourion, located west of Limassol You might wonder why this footprint notes the UK as a location, but the map shows Cyprus. Kourion is situated in the British territory here in Cyprus. En route, we would pass through naval bases like Episkopi. there's quite a level of difference between the homes of differently ranked officers.

    Our guide/driver for the day gave us a brief overview, and we had a local guide on site. We started at the house of Eustolios overlooking the Mediterannean. He was a wealthy man with a huge house, with some of the mosaics still remaining. Next stop, the Roman Theatre, which was actually reconstructed due to earthquakes in the area. It's not large by any means, but suited the city.

    A short walk away was the Episcopal Precinct & Cathedral of Kourion, also overlooking the Mediterranean. From here we had a about a half hour of free time to explore it, the Stadium, the forum, the baths, and the house of the gladiators. It felt a bit rushed as we likely could have enjoyed another 30 minutes here just to wander and explore.

    Near Kourion is the Sanctuary of Apollo. Sadly it wasn't on our itinerary, but our guide did drive in so we could take a few photos. Unfortunately the sanctuary itself is further back, it would've been nice to have gone, though probably adding 30 minutes to the tour if the company would consider it.    Read more

  • Rita YeeRita YeeInto Ancient History

    Paphos Afternoon

    January 30, 2019 in Cyprus ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Had a bit of crazy weather as we moved from Kourion to Aphrodite's Rock outside of Paphos. The skies darkened. We'd heard the prediction of rain, and rain it did, along with some lightning. The only thing we could do was cross our fingers that the weather would dry out quickly before our next destination. What looked like wet snow on the window was not promising, but it did clear up soon enough.

    We pulled over on the road by some cliffs overlooking the beach where Aphrodite's Rock was located. Depending on which legend you hear, you'll find different reasons to swim out to and around Aphrodite's Rock. One version has to do with love while another of course is youth and beauty. You could also find true love, supposedly, if you find a heart shaped pebble on the beach. I'm admittedly guilty of picking up a few pebbles here, one sort of heart shaped, but nothing like what a fellow traveler found. Got too distracted at one point on the beach and didn't make it further along. Oops...perhaps I shall return here on a previous trip.

    The city of Paphos is the smallest on Cyprus I believe. Now that I'm here, I'm really glad I decided to make Limassol my base instead of Paphos and flying out from here. There's a few sights to see like the Saint Solomoni catacombs where she was first imprisoned for her faith, the tortured and killed. There's a large tree as well with numerous ribbons of cloth tied here. The ribbons represent prayers and hope for a cure for those who are ill. One person even tied on baby shoes.

    Onwards to St Paul's Pillar where the apostle was flogged, it's near a site with ruins of past churches, although a small one still stands today. Perhaps the biggest highlight of Paphos was the Archaeological Park. Filled not only with ruins, but also some stunning mosaics remaining from earlier times. The House of Dionysos is supposed to contain the best, but I think the best one is located at the House of Theseus. It's definitely worth exploring here for an hour or two.

    Time flew and we had to leave before we could see more of Paphos. I'm glad I took this tour as it helped make it an easy and focused day, not to mentioned a few sites like Aphrodite's Rock that would've been challenging to get to on my own.    Read more

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