An open-ended adventure by Renee Lucas Read more
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  • 9.6kmiles
  • Day 1

    Adventure awaits!

    April 8 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Today is the day! There’s a solar eclipse in the sky but, more importantly to me, I’ve met up with Nicole and Angèle in Orlando and we will join Lise once we reach the Newark airport. I’m sure once we board the flight to Portugal it will begin to hit me that I am really hiking this pilgrimage again!
    Training and planning are all behind me and now the joy of living this experience and sharing it with my sisters is beginning to sink in… here we go!! 💃💃💃💃
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  • Day 2

    Welcome to Porto

    April 9 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    This morning we arrived at the Aeroporto Francisco Sá Carneiro and a beautiful bluebird day in Porto- the sun was shining and it looked like a perfect day for exploring the city. Joy! After a short metro ride to our hotel, we dropped our backpacks and headed out into the sunshine. We were struck immediately by an imposing church nearby and made a visit to the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Lapa, the neighborhood church. Stunning! We walked towards the old town and happened upon another beautiful church (there would be many today! ) and made another visit. This one was the Igreja de Santissima Trinidade and again was so lovely- full of beautiful statues, art and a quiet reverence and elegance. There were many other pilgrims out today as well as many local residents since the weather was so lovely. Such fun to hear many different languages spoken all around us! The city of Porto is so pretty and the flowers around are beginning to bloom. We walked by colorful houses with tile façades, terra-cotta roofs and wrought iron balconies interspersed with shops and restaurants and small cafés. Every so often the cityscape would open to reveal miradouros (viewpoints) of Porto- so breathtaking! We had lunch of fresh grilled mackerel and potatoes and a little wine then strolled along the Cais de Ribeira, the riverfront promenade along the Douro River. As we walked we saw the colorful barcos rebelos (flat bottomed boats) and enjoyed people watching. After awhile we were able to visit the Church and Museum of Sâo Francisco (also known as The Gold Church) which is dripping in gold leaf and a National monument and UNESCO World Heritage site. It dates to 1383 and is so sumptuous- no pictures allowed but we were amazed by the lavish woodcarvings, the retables, side altars, chapels, sacristy and catatombs- what a treasure! We climbed the escadas do Codeçal (a monster set of 240 steep stairs) and made our way up to the Sé or Cathedral of Porto. It’s high on the hilltop and fortress like and austere but once inside the beauty of the architecture and especially the blue and white tiles really shines. Here we were able to purchase our credentials to document our travels as we walk this ancient pilgrimage- the girls purchased shells for their backpacks too. As night was approaching we made our way back down to the river, crossed the Dom Luis I bridge and enjoyed a flight of port wines followed by a sunset dinner near the river before heading back to a hot shower at the hotel. We walked over 15 miles today and tomorrow we’ll begin working towards our goal - hiking the Camino de Santiago!Read more

  • Day 3

    Sandy Beaches and a Sunny Day

    April 10 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    We woke up this morning and took off so excited for our first day of actual hiking! At days end we had covered 17+ sunny miles of hiking- mostly along a wooden boardwalk while enjoying a succession of beaches and beautiful maritime landscapes. There were points where the boardwalk was covered in deep sand so there was some trudging involved as well as the hiking 😂 The beginning of the hike was a bit somber as we passed the beachside sculpture in the village of Matosinhos commemorating a sea disaster where many sailors were lost. The “Tragédia no Mar” is a very emotional piece! We passed fishing villages with bright colored houses, fishing nets and boats, tidal pools, salt tanks in stone dating from Roman times, ancient chapels, memorial obelisks and many friendly Portuguese! We also made friends with pilgrims from Australia and Slovenia today. I guess we stick out as there are four of us sisters together and we all have our phones out ready to shoot the next beautiful wave. Bom Caminho was on everyone’s lips today! We had a picnic by the sea for lunch with fresh fruit and cheese and warm baguettes. This evening it was sardines in garlic sauce with rice and beans and a little house wine- delicious! As we got to town tonight (Vila do Conde) we were able to visit the amazing Igreja Matriz dedicated to St. John the Baptist (S Joâo Baptista) and pray a Rosary- what a wonderful bonding experience we are having! This is fun but tiring so I’ll head to sleep- tomorrow will be another long day! A final thought- Jenna and Blaise both turned 40 years old this week and so I’m praying for them as they reach their milestone birthdays. My friends and family are always in my prayers but somehow while outside surrounded by God’s beautiful nature I feel more compelled to thank Him for all the graces, family and friends I have been given. ❤️Read more

  • Day 4

    Vila Do Conde to Esposende

    April 11 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    We left charming Vila do Conde with its flower filled parks, impressive aqueduct, monumental fountains and tiled chapels to walk 17.7 miles to Esposende- a long day! We hiked through the small towns along the coast and had so many people wave to us or honk their horns and call out, “Bom Caminho!” Such friendly people! We were back on the boardwalks again for awhile until we moved a bit inland and hiked still on boardwalks but over the masseiras or garden plots- we saw tons of onions being harvested. In Aqucadoura we passed old windmills and in Estella there was a huge soccer complex and golf course. It was hot so we had a late lunch and lager in a café and rearranged our socks and packs. We finished our day hiking through a eucalyptus forest which was cool and breezy and smelled so good! The flowers were vibrant and beautiful all over the paths today and lemons trees are bursting with fruit. Today on the way we met so many other pilgrims- this warm and pleasant weather is a boon for all of us. We met people today from France, Hong Kong, Japan, Dubai, Norway and even a couple of Okies from Enid! And tonight at supper (which was low key in the albergue dining room) we met Amanda from the Florida Gator Nation! 🧡💙 In Apulia a little lady named Lina (age 90!) stopped us to chat and direct us to the church- she was amazing and sweet to talk to us. So tired from the day and tomorrow will be another long day so I’m headed to sleep and dreaming about our adventures for tomorrow.Read more

  • Day 5

    Beach to Forest

    April 12 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    This morning we were up early and headed out for more adventures. We hiked along the ocean a bit as we left Esposende and then traded the boardwalks for winding our way through sleepy villages on quiet country lanes. The roosters crowed us along and we were visited by several cats and dogs as we made our way north. It was so encouraging to see the many Bom Camino signs that we passed. We are still very careful to spot the yellow arrows that point us in the right way because none of us want to risk getting off track 😂. The recent rains turning to bright sunshine this week and the fact that it’s springtime here has so many beautiful flowers blooming in the small yards- bird of paradise, roses, rhododendrons, irises, wisteria and flowering fruit trees are intoxicatingly fragrant as we walk by but they are rivaled by the riotous display of wildflowers too! We passed wild daisies, ferns of every shape, calla lillies, poppies and sweet clover and they are busting from rock walls and in fields. This afternoon we even saw foxglove blooming in pastures and grapevines blooming with tiny baby grape buds- a real treat! Portugal is especially beautiful now. Angèle had a close encounter with a green snake that poked his head out from the vines so that they were face to face- I almost lost my mind! But she was brave and we kept going. We visited so many churches today- those dedicated to Michael the Archangel, S. Joâo de Monte, Senhora de Miséricordia, S. Sebastio and a very special one, Igreja Santiago de Castelo de Nieva which holds an inscription of dedication of the original church to San Tiago dating from the year 862- it’s the oldest consecration to the Apostle from outside of Spain! We spent most of the afternoon hiking through forest land over rocks and branches and through some mud. It was so hot today as we marched along our 18 miles (!) and we were about to stop and take a rest when we came upon a little donativo cantina in the woods run by a very friendly Portuguese man who sang to us as we accepted his generosity and had some melons and fruit, icy drinks and even a little port wine- yes please and obrigato! Thankyou! We kept going then and passed over the river Lima as we entered Viana do Castelo walking across a metal bridge done by the Eiffel school. We enjoyed a light supper at a bar that had a DJ playing traditional Portuguese Fado music and then had an Uber take us up the mountain to our albergue Santa Luiza- it was 600 steps up some treacherous stairs and we felt it wise to stay safe. I did the stairs last year with Richard and once was enough for me! The Sanctuário de Santa Luzia (also known as Templo do Sagrado Coraçáo de Jesus) is atop of the mountain and an imposing sight! We needed to check in so we’ll visit the Sanctuary in the morning- for now it’s laundry and sleep! We’re in an 8 person dorm room and my 3 sisters are all on top bunks- reminiscent of our childhood days! Tomorrow is our last day in Portugal for awhile and it will be another long day so we’ll get our rest and be ready to hoist up backpacks and leave early.Read more

  • Day 6

    Last day in Portugal

    April 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Woke up this morning to furtive rustling and lights on too early- sleeping in hostels means you must resign to the fact that everyone is on their own journey and your timetable may not concur with the other pilgrim’s schedules- our haste to get on the road forgives them, we say a morning prayer of thanks for a safe arrival last night, look forward and off we go! We first stopped in at the beautiful sanctuary atop of the mountain- dedicated to San Luzia- the church and the views outside were magnificent. Today we hiked and hiked- 17.7 miles! - strenuous going through some mountain paths with rocks and boulders to scramble over- also altitude changes and some serious uphills climbing over and down - we encouraged each other and leaned in to this trial. At last we made it back to the coast and some small villages- at one café we were treated when a local woman arrived with a homemade tart de Santiago and insisted that we all try some and then refused to let us pay her- such generosity! By the end of the day we were exhausted- we arrived in A Guarda at 7:45 pm- such a long day! But we certainly appreciated the beauty and kindness of Portugal and its people- we enjoyed a typical Portuguese dinner in the down square and collapsed gratefully into our hostel- tomorrow Spain!!Read more

  • Day 7

    Galicia!!

    April 14 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Nothing better than waking up before daybreak, grabbing your backpack and jumping into a taxi with a speeding driver who is listening to thumping Calvin Harris techno music as he careens down small streets to deposit you at the marina- we’re awake now! Obrigato senhor! Our boat captain was jolly and happy but the young guys that were with us were very concerned that we get in and out of the small skiff without falling in the water 😂 We arrived to the beach (and Spain!) and started hiking. The early morning sandy paths we were walking on were through a pine forest and then out again to the seaside. As waves crashed we could smell the sea salt and feel the spray- invigorating! We marched ahead until the first café and stopped for tea and coffee, banana toasts and empanadas. After refreshments we headed to the town of A Guarda and the beautiful 16th century church of Santa Maria- we arrived just as Mass was finishing but went in for prayers and blessings. The church is filled with paintings, statues, stained glasses and painted wood icon altar pieces- lovely!! So easy to be reverent in these holy places full of beauty. We next passed the chapel of the Virgin de Guia with the Way of the Cross outside complete with tall granite crosses. Now that we are in Spain we also see more granite in the fixed Camino markers that give the exact mileage to Santiago de Compostella- it’s great to see those numbers dwindling ( slowly ) and we sisters are all so determined to keep walking. We encourage each other and laugh and chat. And we pray together and we even have been singing religious hymns from our childhood along the way. I’m sure the Sisters of Mercy from St. Mary’s school in tiny Rockledge, Florida would be proud. We, on the other hand, are grateful for our Catholic upbringing and school and the selflessness of the nuns who taught us. And we keep walking! Some of the paths are rocky and some areas of them are muddy and treacherous from last week’s rains. After 14 miles of glorious weather we entered the tiny hamlet of Oia, a beachside gem. The Monastery of Santa Maria La Réal stands majestically directly on the beachfront. It is Romanesque in design and from 1137- it has been used as a monastery, a place for prayer and a defensive site against attacks from pirates. Tonight as we entered the village, the townspeople were gathered around the town square talking and laughing and enjoying the evening- we did laundry hurriedly and had a delicious seafood dinner with fresh scallops and shrimp and watched the sun set- tomorrow will come early and we must be prepared to keep heading north!Read more

  • Day 8

    Oia to Baiona

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    We spent last night in Casa Puertas which is a B&B in Oia. We needed the rest and the care- the family that runs this Inn is so kind and helpful. We had a huge breakfast with fresh eggs from their hens and it was just what we needed to get the day going. They also served fresh squeezed OJ and this was the first time we experienced what we would see at several stops during this day….If you order orange juice at the cafés they will break out their juicer and proceed to make some juice- so fresh! These are Spanish Valencia oranges we were proudly told. They are believed to be the sweetest and the best for juicing. We girls smiled thinking about growing up back in Florida at 10 Valencia Road and we had orange trees too! Once breakfast was over we headed out back on our journey- saying goodbye to Oia is difficult because it’s such a sweet little place with such history and beauty and such a lovely place for weary pilgrims to recover. A sign I saw on the road said it all: “Good Way, Good Life! Bo Camina, Buena Vida!” I really felt they were sending us off to continue our pilgrimage but also to have a good life. Kind people inspire others! In Mougas we passed a rock pile made up of stones and memorabilia that pilgrims left behind. It was a good place for us sisters to leave a symbolic momento to add to the collection and also to lessen the weight in our bags. After a few days of walking it seems natural to shed burdens you no longer require. We traveled today along the coast with sunshine galore and a breezy north wind - a little chilly. This was a day for turquoise waters, windmills and lighthouses! There were mirador (picturesque spots) around each bend. The rocks in the paths varied from pea gravel to big boulders that we needed to scramble over- we’re always looking ahead but not forgetting to watch directly at our feet- probably a good metaphor and plan for life! We had some roadway walking too which was interesting bc the cars here drive very fast. Easy to find the pilgrim’s path while on roadways because it’s painted bright yellow- our yellow brick road. (but of course we’re off to see not the Wizard but St. James!) ☺️ We were able to stop at cafés twice today- lucky to find them- and sample some pain au chocolat, more orange juice and a wonderful vegetarian lentil and turnip soup- such food! We did some significant climbing into Baiona and checked into our hostel- Estrella de Mar- where we had a 4 person pod and Angèle and I ended up in top bunks- pretty proud of myself that after 14 miles I was able to climb up there! After quick showers we grabbed a cab and doubled back to the outskirts of town to visit the Virxe de Rocha, an enormous granite monument on Mount Sansón with a 15m statue of a magnificent Our Lady holding a boat and raising a hand to bless the waters. We climbed up the steps around her and felt the wind blowing off the harbor- what a thrill! Our cab driver was kind enough to drive us into the Parador complex so we could see the old fort now converted into a luxury hotel. Back down in the harbor area with it’s narrow medieval streets we saw the replica of the Pinta, one of three ships that discovered America and we had a dinner of whole fish (sole) and vegetables that was delicious. Finally home at the hostel it was lights out early because a lot of these pilgrims get up very early to leave- hoping to be one of those tomorrow!Read more

  • Day 13

    Caldas de Reis to Padrón

    April 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    I woke up this morning to a pink sky dawn with the majestic Igrexa San Tomás standing sentinel just outside our window. It feels surreal that we have made it so far! The sisters have alternately struggled with sunburns, blistered feet and aching muscles. I’m so proud of them but also so worried for them! This adventure and pilgrimage has become sobering in that we all struggle and we must help each other and lean on each other to achieve our goal of reaching Santiago- God willing we will arrive tomorrow! Between the altitude changes and the varied terrain there is always something to watch out for. We left town by crossing the River Bermaña over a 1st century bridge which still had some remains of the Roman pavement and a beautiful cruciero. We passed the chapel of St Roque who is the patron saint of the town. He is also the patron for pilgrims, dogs and those with contagious diseases (so timely for us now as we emerge from the pandemic.) Most of this stage of the walk was on natural pathways through woodlands and quiet country roads. We passed along two river valleys, the Bermaña and then the Cortiñas before reaching the Valga valley into Pontecesures and crossing the rio Ulla over a long bridge. At one turn in the road we were treated to the site of the Iglesia S. Mariña de Carrecedo- it’s bordered by farmland and vineyards. Peaceful cows and sheep meander around the church- so picturesque! We passed many churches today. We saw San Miguel de Valga from far away- the dark grey of the worn granite bell tower and steeple was so beautiful against the blue sky. It was unattended and locked except for an iron gate that you could peer through to see the sanctuary. And if you slipped 50 cents in the lockbox the altar light would come on for 1 minute- ingenious! Also on our route was the Romanesque church of San Xulián and the Cruceiro de San Lázaro and the site of a medieval leper colony (!) Moving forward once we reached Padrón we saw the Igrexa Cathedral de Santiago de Padrón which contains the stone that secured St James’s boat as legend has it when he landed in Spain. Amazing church filled with religious statues and paintings! Nearby rising from a rocky promontory we could see the imposing 18th century Carmelite monastery. We hiked 16+ miles today and we are exhausted. Such a long day filled with wonder and so much to see! Just like the waves in the rivers we walked along and crossed over there were waves of pilgrims today- most hurrying by us but many we caught up to and chatted with. Everyone we saw today had an expectant air- we are so close! Our hostel tonight is a large pension with an outside pool with freezing water and a pilgrim meal served around large tables/ we drank a little sangria with our new friends and hurried to bed to get ready for a very exciting day tomorrow!Read more