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Camino de Santiago

October - November 2023
Coastal Portuguese Route with Spiritual Variant Read more
  • 16footprints
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  • 17days
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  • 13.0kmiles
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  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    121
    Day 15

    Final Thoughts 🩷

    October 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    No alarm clock this morning, no need to shove wet insoles into hiking boots, no reason to stuff all of our possessions into a damp backpack and heave it up onto our shoulders….we are here! Thankfully “here” means a comfy hostel with a hot shower.
    With the way we feel, the famous and extravagant Parador Hotel just across from the Cathedral has nothing on this place. Rest and recovery day are in tall order- my right ankle is sore and my legs are still tired from yesterday and all of the days before. Time to slow back down, think about traveling home, collect our thoughts and review lessons learned from this ancient pilgrimage we’ve followed. I keep looking at my beautiful Compostela and my Credencial and can hardly believe we did it! Officially we covered 180 miles for our certificate but according to my IWatch we completed 207.44 miles! We were told that this has been the wettest October in Galacia for 90 years (our luck!)
    I can remember the days that were hardest and the days where our miles led me to the most beautiful sights and my most prayerful moments. Walking the Camino has been just a dream for me for many years and I’m so happy to have done it now. I wish this joyful, content and peaceful feeling to all pilgrims who are searching. We went to Mass again today at noon and were fortunate enough to see the Botafumeiro, a large thurible, swing and release incense throughout the church- such an ancient rite and amazing today even in our technologically minded world. It was maneuvered by eight robed men, called tiraboleiros and swung from the main dome- reportedly it can reach speeds of 60 km/hr as it swings from side to side along the church naves! We saw many of our pilgrimage friends at Mass- so many friendships made with people not soon forgotten. After Mass we strolled around the town and admired the shops and the town squares (prazas) especially again the Praza do Obradoiro and the west facing façade of the Cathedral. One of the guide books I had read said to search for, “St. James looking down upon the pilgrims from his niche in the central tower” and seeing him up there I know he smiled down on us, especially today! We treated ourselves to a yummy seafood paella for lunch, bought some fruit, cheese, olives and a baguette for dinner tonight and headed back to the hostel to nap before our trip home tomorrow. Time to get back to reality, time to live with a greater appreciation of all that I have been given. I’m changed but I’m the same me just one hoping to be a better witness of my faith and possibly walk another Camino one day!
    Time will tell- only God knows. ✝️🥰🙏🏻    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    4211
    Day 14

    We Made It!

    October 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    We started out walking in the dark this morning- we woke so early, too excited to sleep with the anticipation of this being our last day and being so close to our destination. And there was no rain….yet! Our boots were woefully soggy- squishy, wet boots need time to dry- but it didn’t matter today. Even my backpack seemed lighter…until the rain came down in sheets again. Dreary, damp, demoralizing, drippy deluge- so many « D » words- the weather on this trip has earned a grade of D! But never mind- here we go! We passed the imposing Sanctuary of A Escravitude and took what is one of my favorite pictures/ Rick and me and a cruceiro in shadow on the façade of the church- it seems a fair representation of how we must have looked during much of this journey with our ponchos on and faces covered to avoid the rain- just 2 shadows following an ancient pilgrimage- this picture speaks to me! We were inspired by so many pilgrims along the way and one who will remain in my heart was an 85 year old man named Walker ( his real name!) from North Carolina. How could I complain when others are also doing their best in these conditions? Along our travels we passed countless cruceiro on the streets and hills, all reminders of Christ’s sacrifice. Today we passed one of the oldest in Galacia (14th century) carved in a Gothic style, very solid and somber. There were moments of sun today and we were treated to God’s glory with a double rainbow- such a delight to see! We took a quick break for coffee and a pain au chocolat and kept going. At the end of the day we had hiked 16.5 miles but the miracle and joy of it the day was: We Made It! This spiritual pilgrimage we’ve been on with the breathtaking views, cultural heritage sites and weather events had finally deposited us onto our destination- the Praza do Obradoiro and the majestic Cathedral de Santiago, a UNESCO World Heritage site and destination for pilgrims for almost a thousand years. Entering the town we walked along the streets and felt anticipation and also some anxiety- would it be worth the trials we’ve been through this last two weeks? Other pilgrims hurried along beside us through the narrow cobblestone streets and we barely looked at the vendors and restaurants that line them as we rushed forwards! The rain had let up a bit as we entered the square and saw the cathedral- awe inspiring! People were snapping pictures all around us and hugging and smiling- there was a buzz of different languages filling the air and the sense I received from these murmurings was one of incredible joy. Personally I also felt a sense of relief to have made it and pride and gratitude that my body kept pushing. I felt the support of my beloved family and my friends who I prayed for as I walked and who I know had me in their prayers. We snapped a few pictures then made our way to the pilgrims office to present our stamped credentials (proof that we had walked the entire way) and receive our final stamp and a certificate with our names written in Latin. I also had them add my mother’s name and it just makes me so happy to have her name there with mine. We made our way back to the Cathedral and arrived early enough to visit the crypt and tomb of Saint James and we did the « Embrace of the Apostle » before settling down into the pews for the pilgrims Mass. A day I will remember forever and a final feeling of peace, calm and contentment mixed in with some sore and achy muscles :) 🩷✝️🌈🙏🏻🤩🥾🩷Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    26
    Day 13

    Almost There!

    October 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    We left Caldas de Reis under a heavy cloud cover with hopes that the rain would hold off. It started sprinkling right away and by the end of the day we had high winds and a downpour- hard rain for four solid hours. No big deal for us at this point because our goal is at hand and we are almost there! Today was different because we made no church visits/ not a single one! Everything is closed up tight with this weather and we are trying to be content with just admiring the exteriors of some pretty amazing churches as we walk by them. Pretty disappointed though! We spent a fair amount of time in the forests again but also on small country lanes and through vineyards. We stopped for lunch at a small café and had a delicious traditional Galician soup with turnip greens, quail with fries and some whitefish with potatoes and peas all for 11 Euro. It was filling and just what we needed to warm up a bit. When it was time to put our ponchos on and head out everyone in the restaurant tried to dissuade us from leaving in the weather- it was getting darker and colder at this point but we knew we needed to keep pushing forward- no taxi for us!! Despite the grey day we saw lots of flowers along the roads- this rain is greening up the countryside. There are lots of pilgrim spots as we pass through and Rick left his rock from Florida at a memorial site today- very moving. We try and pray some as we march along but honestly today was just a day where we tried to survive the elements. The wind was roaring , reportedly with 45 mph gusts, and pushing us along- it took a lot of concentration to place our feet safely with the wind blowing so hard. After 18 miles it was a relief to see our alburgue come in to sight. There was a pilgrim’s meal there tonight. Rick opted out but I went and it was so special to visit with other pilgrims and hear their stories. I know Uischi from Germany and Sanda from Slovenia already but tonight I met Deidre from the Baltic coast of Lithuania and Charles from Québec and a bunch of others who generously sang Happy Birthday to me at our table when they heard i had just turned 67- I almost cried it was so sweet. (And our meal a veggie curry was delicious too.) Going to sleep good tonight!
    I saw a quote written today on a poster we passed on the trails, “ Cada paso que he dado en me vida mi ha llevado aquí, ahora”which loosely means, “Every step I have taken in my life has led me here, now”. I feel that so deeply tonight. I can’t wait until the morning when we start our final steps of this Camino- stay tuned!!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    2
    Day 12

    Counting Our Steps

    October 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    I tossed and turned all night listening to a big thunderstorm that lasted for hours. Usually I can sleep through those things but with our experiences in the rain this past week, I was dreading waking up to find more rain expected. Luckily it seems the rain may have tired itself out a bit with last night’s performance and this morning was cloudy but not wet! We had a beautiful breakfast from our host’s mother- she made us a cake and pressed fresh orange juice and we ate with Viola and Giada from Italy who we seem to keep bumping into! Finally time to take off onto the way and even though my boots are wet and spongy and Rick had to superglue his soles to keep them together, we are marching on. We thoroughly enjoyed Pontevedra - would love to come back and relax. As we were leaving town and snapping pictures a kind gentleman motioned us into the big church we were photographing- it looked so overgrown and mossy that we were totally surprised it was open and grateful for the friend who saw us and invited us in- and we were in time for morning Mass! Such a good morning already and now receiving this blessing to carry us on our way was a bonus. We had entered the Real Basílica Menor de Santa María La Major which appears deserted from the outside because it is so old! The stonework was awe inspiring and the carved wood altarpiece was so beautiful. After Mass we hurried back to the road and today we completed 15 miles along a few miles of forest paths but mostly country lanes with vineyards and farmlands. There were still puddles but not anything like our previous days adventures! We did have one cloudburst but we had just approached St. Mary’s church in Alba and we ducked in and put all of our rain gear back on to prepare, but that blew over and we were fine! Rick insisted on keeping his gaiters on his legs so that the rain wouldn’t come back :) We walked with our friends Joseph and Mary (I didn’t make that up!) from north of San Francisco today and a mother and son from Croatia and several other people passed us including 4 young guys on bikes who circled us and shouted Buen Camino!!! You do start to get in a rhythm while you walk and you see some friends as you go in and out of the cafés. We are keeping our eyes peeled for the official Camino markers- so excited with our countdown- 2 more days! Some of the young girls we met and walked with early on Karolina (Poland) and Yvette (Germany), texted me this afternoon with the news that they had made it to Santiago, this accompanied with a joyful picture of them in front of the Cathedral. I can’t wait to arrive and feel that same joy and excitement and I’m even more determined tonight for our arrival. Our meal tonight in a little café was octopus (pulpo), chicken soup and shrimp croquettes- pretty fancy for pilgrims! And our friends from South Carolina, Dawn and Martha were there too- what are the chances?! After a plate of the locally famous Padrón peppers we took our leave because tomorrow means another hike! We are in Caldas de Reis for the night and will head over towards Padrón tomorrow.Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 11

    Farms, Vineyards, Forests and Rivers

    October 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    We woke today to the sounds of church bells and more rain, actually a torrential rain! So naturally we laced up the boots, threw on our ponchos and took off heading North! As we get closer to Santiago there are more pilgrims and we are really enjoying chatting along the way with some very interesting people. Funny we’ve met a couple of sibling groups traveling the Way of St. James with us and it’s so refreshing to see other families like us having this bonding time. I have been so grateful to make the journey with Richard because he finds the arrows very quickly and navigates the best path and he’s always there around the corner making me laugh when I arrive thinking I can’t breathe or take another step. We both love animals and it was a treat to have had a little doggie escort for about a mile this morning through the first village until he finally had enough of us and ran back down the hill. Our first stop was at an austere little chapel, St Marta, in a tiny farming community. Even so early the door was open and candles were burning. God bless that caretaker because it gave us a chance to give thanks for our morning as well as to reorganize packs, wring out wet socks and catch a breath before marching on.
    After the chapel there were supposedly two options for the route (Tomaza Division?) but we only saw one and it turned out to be a very difficult stage. We walked through a forest along the rivers Dos Gafos and Pintos and the path started deteriorating rapidly as we made our way. The river was swollen and fast and the paths were just a series of large puddles. At one alarming point we were knee deep in cold water and we considered turning back but then 4 pilgrims popped up behind us and we all made the joint decision to push forward. We were all so relieved to make it to Pontevedra. It was supposed to be an easy day for us- only 9 miles- but probably a day I won’t forget soon because we worked so hard. We were lucky to arrive in town early enough for the menú del diá and had some lovely pasta with mushrooms, some fish and a pork chop. Delicious and only 10euro! The town here is beautiful, filled with shops and lots of people dressed very stylishly. I look a wet, bedraggled mess but people smile and nod and I guess they are used to pilgrims making their way through town. We were able to get into our hostel, shower and do laundry before going out to explore and lo and behold the rain had let up! Praise the Lord- we saw the sun! This was very encouraging so we strolled around and visited the ruins of the church of San Domingos- dating from 14th century and now a national protected monument. We sampled some Santiago tartas which are little almond cakes flavored with orange and lemon supposedly first baked in 1577 in honor of Saint James. They are yummy and of course I will find a recipe to make some when I get back home! We visited the Sanctuary of the Virgin of Shelter and the Divine Pilgrim- it’s square in the middle of town surrounded by modern buildings but it shines like a star and its architecture is breathtaking- we both stopped in our tracks when we saw it! Tonight we went back for a pilgrim’s Rosary and Mass and all I could think when I saw the church tonight was that it looked like a jewel box. Tomorrow we hope to get an early start, visit the Basilica and be on our way. As I close I hear people outside at the bars and cafés laughing and chatting and I hear the rain hitting the pavement- I think I will sleep good tonight!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    2
    Day 10

    Hitting Our Stride

    October 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Here was the plan-we fly in to Portugal and walk north into Spain and we pray our way up the coast and the sun shines and it’s warm and we get some exercise along the way….and that’s not what’s happening! It rained again (hard) for 17+miles and it was difficult to see anything through the fog and raindrops-and it’s cold! Oh well, despite the unexpected developments in our plan, we know we are progressing and hitting our stride- at some point we just gave it up to God and kept walking. We are keeping our eyes on the official Camino markers with their descending km numbers as we march closer to Santiago!
    Leaving Vigo was difficult because it’s a bustling city with lots of construction and activity. On the way out of town we passed so many shops and markets. We always drop into the fruitalarias for snacking fruit and pastelarias for snacks to add to our packs and there were many shops along the way! Vigo is known for its seafood and most importantly its oysters but we’ll have to try those next time! We had a serious wake up call by being introduced to Mount Vigo. Climbing it wasn’t technical but it was difficult and straight up and the rain made the streets slippery. At one point there was a line of pilgrims huffing and puffing and pushing their way up along with us! We caught our breath, hit our stride and just tried to keep walking out of town and towards the next tiny villages. In Cederia we were able to see the old church dedicated to Santo André which was designed by the same architect responsible for the design of the cathedral at Santiago de Compostela. We had mountain trails again today and the rain has made the forest so green!
    I turned 67 today- yes, walking the Camino on my birthday! In all of the rain I was able to do a lot of thinking and today it was about my mom who gave me life! She loved traveling and exploring and she inspired me as a kid and even now. I’m doing this pilgrimage but I’m bringing her with me in my heart and when I get my certificate at the end I plan to have her name added too. Her name was Marie Marguerite Thérèse Pellerin which is fitting that she would travel with me because the name “Pellerin” means pilgrim in French. And we were lucky enough to meet our first fellow Québécois on the journey today! Martine and Josée from Montréal walked a bit with us! I didn’t have cake but Lisa from Austria (a young policewoman!) who’s also in the Albergue with us gave me a special chocolate wafer bar to enjoy- so much kindness sent to me today! We are sleeping in Arcade/Pontesampaio and we walked across a one lane bridge built in 1600 that still is in use even by automobiles! Tomorrow is a short day into Pontevedra and we plan on attending the pilgrims Mass at the Sanctuary of the Virgin of the Shelter and the Divine Pilgrim- headed to sleep now- Thankyou all for the birthday wishes!!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    Day 9

    Awe and Anticipation

    October 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Leaving Baiona was hard today- what a lovely coastal town with its harbor and churches. We bid the Virxe da Rocha (a 15 meter tall Madonna outdoor sculpture) and our sweet little hostel goodbye for now with the hope to come back one day. We’ve gotten into a routine of getting out the door and searching for the nearest café to grab a coffee and a pastry before hiking away but this morning the rain was so intense that we lingered a little longer hoping for some respite. We were even approached by a young guy who tried to coax us into his car so that he could drive us to Vigo since, as he told us, he worked there. No chance but thankyou kindly we responded- we are committed to this pilgrimage! And off we went sloshing along through the streets with our faithful ponchos (who were never removed today!) I felt my guardian angel working hard keeping me safe several times during our hike so I hope I’m keeping her wings dry with my poncho too. (Ah- the thoughts that come to mind when you walk and walk!) The rain was intense and never ending but we did manage 18 miles. We walked through quiet country lanes, high forest paths, along rivers and across bridges. Between Baiona and Nigrán there is a quaint medieval bridge with 10 arches and in the center of the bridge is a cross (cruceiro) with a statue of San Telmo (Saint Elmo), who is the patron saint of sailors- like Richard! Some of the rivers we passed were the Guillade, the DaGrobe and the Miño-
    We are seeing so many of the ancient crosses along the way- some attached to churches or merely on the side of the road. We noticed today that many of them have carvings front and back so we check each one and try to discern the meaning of each one. The saddest ones, I believe, are the ones who have Our Blessed Mother Mary holding baby Jesus on one side and then we see the crucified Christ on the other side- the combination of these two events on one cross is powerful and painfully sad. We also have visited and prayed at some cemeteries and today were struck that some more recent graves are crowned with ancient carved crosses probably repurposed from previous older graves?
    Some of the churches we have tried to enter have been locked - it’s a sad commentary on our world that one cannot just enter our churches!! But these are precious treasures to be protected and so when they are open we rejoice at an entry granted.
    A little aside about the daily life we see here in Spain- I’m intrigued by the little bakeries we pass. Some are named « Pandelarias » and some are « Pastelarias » Not sure of the difference! Also as we’ve passed through towns we’re been entertained by the baguette delivery here- they just hook a bagged baguette (sorry couldn’t resist) on the front door handle of the homes - what a good system!
    Our afternoon was spent tramping in the mud mostly through forests that were fairylike in appearance- full of ferns and mossy rocks and waterfalls- the birds sang us along and the smell which was a combination of fresh rain and eucalyptus trees was intoxicating. And we spied a rainbow even through the rain. We also saw the Fonte de Medõna which was used as a water stop for thirsty pilgrims. Once we got back down closer to Vigo there was more farmland and now we have sheep! Arriving in Vigo we took advantage of a Menú del Diá and wolfed down some cauliflower soup, fried fresh fish, some flan and a glass of vino (for me!) all for 12Euro. Exhaustion had overpowered us now so no sightseeing but we’ll try in the morning. Hoping our hiking boots and clothes dry tonight. Tomorrow we are beginning the last 100 K of our pilgrimage- apparently we will see more pilgrims and we are just so inspired to continue heading towards Santiago de Compostela. As we get closer our
    anticipation is heightening- Please keep us in your prayers- you are all in ours!! Xoxoxo    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    1
    Day 8

    We Are Motivated!

    October 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Between the clouds and the cold pouring rain this morning and the hour we lost when we entered Spain from Portugal yesterday, it was really dark when we woke up and tried to get going . I opened our room window over my bed and watched the rain a bit and the waves breaking on the shore before finally lacing up my hiking boots. Our hosts offered to cook breakfast for us and so we sat and chatted a bit with other pilgrims we’d met who had traveled from England and a bike rider from Russia. When I mentioned to our host that we had been so in awe of the old Monastery’s exterior yet disappointed to not get in yesterday, she told us not to worry, she had the key! So we brightened at that and followed her down the road until she let us in. The church was stately but inside was damp and grey and somber- you could almost imagine the ancient monks opening the church on early dark mornings like this- a few prayers, we said goodbye to Oia and we were on our way in the rain.
    I’ve been thinking a lot about our luck with the weather while on our pilgrimage- such storms and wind to add to our exertions while we walk! I had imagined a couple of autumn weeks in Portugal and Spain with warm sun on our shoulders but that hasn’t happened for us and now (I can’t believe I’m saying this!) it just feels right to keep tramping along in the mud. Adversity can be a motivation too!
    Today we walked a lot of rocky paths alternating with sandy stretches along the beach and even some roadsides. (16 miles!) We passed a lot of horses and cows and goats in pastures and went through more forest land too. It’s interesting to see the farms so close to the beaches. Beautiful green pastureland stretches to rocks to sand and sea- it’s beautiful and maybe why the animals seem so calm. Interesting also to see the farm and pasture delineations done with rocks walls instead of fences.
    There were only a few small villages today on our walk- we did happen upon a pilgrims café in time for a lunch of lentil soup- delicious! And I also had a Coke Zero Sugar which keeps me going since I don’t drink coffee- Rick gets some coffee and refuses to eat until evening which I could never do! (Especially when there are pastries around). We made our way into Baiona in the early afternoon with some sun!! Such good timing because we were able to see and appreciate this harbor town. Legend says that Columbus sailed from here and then sent news of his discovery of America to be delivered back here. There is a replica of the Pinta in the harbor- it’s small! We also explored around town and were again amazed by some churches here. There’s a huge Baroque chapel to Saint Liberata- it’s erection began in 1695 and was totally funded by locals. The church of Santa Maria which is also 15th century is a Romanesque style and reminiscent of the Monastery in Oia and it has a large rose window and fabulous carved statues. It’s easy to be reverent in these holy spaces. We saw another small chapel to Our Lady Miseriacordia- there were little children visiting inside and I missed my grandbabies today. I miss Mark and my kids and my friends but I’m determined to continue until, God willing, we reach Santiago. This brings to my mind the Pilgrims ancient greeting, « Ultreia et Suseia » which supposedly is a loose translation from Latin to mean, « beyond and higher » or Let’s keep going! We had fresh fish for dinner and some fresh octopus with hot sauce that I’m not sure was cooked- we found the only restaurant open in town because restaurants here are closed on Mondays!! It’s always something!! Vigo is our destination tomorrow!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    21
    Day 7

    Galicia!

    October 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We entered Spain this morning in a rainstorm and on a speedboat! We were the only ones who were at the dock so I was skeptical about the possibility of leaving but our stern captain motioned us aboard and so in we jumped. We shouldn’t have worried because he was totally capable and we were already wet from the rain, so a little spray didn’t matter much. He dropped us off on a deserted beach and motioned us to get going so we went immediately back into hiking mode and set off to find our way…. which we did not!! Instead we managed to climb a mile straight up a rocky path where I spotted a huge shedded snake skin and about lost my mind until I was distracted by a worried looking man who approached us from the woods waving us to go back down-no problemo sénor! He told us (in Spanish) that he had completed 14 Caminos and this was not the way so we tramped back down those slippery rocks and that scary snakeskin and headed to a soft path under some pine trees and went on our way with an extra mile or so for the day completed. Gracias Fernando!
    The morning was misty and cold and we alternated between beach paths, cobblestone and dirt paths and even some small roadways all the while following the yellow arrows. Now that we are in Spain, the Camino signs give us our exact mileage in km for our eventual arrival in Santiago- the kilometers seem easier to walk with this encouragement. We keep running into our friends here and there at cafés and on the paths- hearing about their experiences on Camino in comparison to ours is so motivating! Funny how we all see the same things but with somewhat different perspectives. In A Guarda we were able to attend Sunday Mass at the church of Santa Maria, an amazingly beautiful church with statues, stained glass and wood icons. We were even lucky enough to watch proud parents have their young baby baptized- joy!! Through the afternoon we walked by small chapels and big villas, some that appear abandoned but may just be closed for the season? We were told that this area is not one that particularly depends on the fishing industry even though it is on the sea, but instead is more agricultural and that some Galacien thoroughbred horses come from here- there were lots of wild horses on the mountainsides to see and we even had a friendly chat with a little goat that we passed. Entering the town of Oia, the Monastery of Santa Maria La Real was grand and imposing. It is Romanesque from the 12th century and a sight to behold. We had a dinner in a café in the town square (empanadas and aoli potatoes) and decided to stop here for the night since there was no lodging for 15 more miles. Strange to complete 14 miles and feel like, « no big deal…could have done more! » Our legs are getting stronger and our desire to reach Santiago is increasing with each village that we pass through. I’m very excited to see how our next day unfolds because so far this walk has given us wonder and memories for a lifetime. Onward we go!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino de Santiago
    2
    2
    Day 6

    Last Day In Portugal

    October 21, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Today we started our hike from Viana do Castelo in the pouring rain- again! We’re handling it OK since we were able to wash and dry our things at the Albergue St Lúzia last night. We visited the cathedral the first thing this morning and the interior did not disappoint- wow! The stained glass, the painted dome and the special altar to St. Lucy were all very beautiful. As I said before, the climb up last night was very hard but well worth it for the views of the city and the ocean this morning. As we were leaving I was hesitant to go down all of those slippery, mossy stairs with no handrail and wearing a backpack, so we opted to take the funiculaire down the mountain and it was $1E well spent. It made me remember riding the one in Québec City as a child!
    This morning we continued up a bit from the coast through dense forests and small villages while still catching glimpses of the ocean from our high vantage points. We did a lot of climbing today up and over many muddy, rocky and scary paths and finally managed about a 19 mile day before arriving to our hostel in Caminha. It was always gratifying to get up a steep incline and realize I still could breathe (barely!) and the forests are so lush that the overgrowth seems to want to push you along the paths.
    The tall crosses we pass frequently are reminders that this is a pious walk and we don’t forget that even as we celebrate the beauty of the country. The houses clad in tile are my favorite, especially the ones that have little niches for Saints or the ones with tiles installed up high and painted with Madonnas or Saints. The rock walls on the paths are painted with a yellow arrow to point us in the right direction towards Santiago and the blue arrows point opposite for pilgrims headed to Fatima.
    Today we took a morning break and by the time we were ready to go there were pilgrims from Australia, South Africa, Germany and Poland with us - it felt like a United Nations convention! We are making lots of friends here. The morning breaks are great for me because we usually are at a pastalaria (pastry shop) and I have a sweet tooth especially for the little custard tarts that are uniquely Portuguese (pasteis de nata). We’ve met some injured pilgrims too- a lady who broke her wrist in Porto, a lady who twisted her ankle also in Porto and a man who fell in Lisbon and broke some ribs- they are all continuing to walk which is inspiring but sobering too. We are trying to be very careful and Rick is good at pointing out dangers to me. The rain slowed this afternoon and while it was still overcast there is promise of some better weather ahead! In the villages we are constantly followed by dogs and cats- the pets here seem to roam a lot and so far are all interested in us but not bothered by our passing through. This afternoon when we headed back down to the coast in Ancora, we were even escorted along the trail by a herd of goats!! So cute! The waves along the coast are very powerful and a wonder to see but tonight the most wonderful thing I see is my bed- Tomorrow we hope to ferry over the river Minho into Spain, try to make a Mass at a village church along the way and spend another hard day of walking.    Read more

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