• RobCowell
Oct – Nov 2016

Iceland 2016

Having spent a long weekend in Iceland in November 2015 I just had to return to see more of this stunning landscape. My friend Tony is travelling with me and together we discover glaciers, volcanic regions and the Icelandic weather. Read more
  • Trip start
    October 25, 2016

    The Journey Begins

    October 25, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    It's been a long day travelling from Birmingham to Kefkavik airport. You can't believe the weight of the bags ... let's just say it cost us to get on the plane.

    We got a car upgrade so we have a bigger 4x4 than expected and the drive to Selfoss (65 miles) brought us the predicted rain (I think that got mentioned), wind (sound familiar?) and fog ... which somehow got left off the list. But we are here, have bought supplies, eaten and have planned the first day. Weather: We think that's been covered so probably no surprises there.

    Only one photo today of the inside of the plane. We were impressed with the lighting mimicking the Northern Lights. Nice touch Icelandair.

    So it's time to sleep ... to the sound of driving rain.

    Rob and Tony.
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  • þingvellir

    October 26, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    All the photos you see on our trip are taken on Rob's phone. Both the photos you see taken here have a rainbow in them which appeared as we arrived and when we left it was still there. This is what marked our visit to where two Continental Plates are moving apart. You could see the end of the rainbow so close to us you could almost see the pot of gold. Of course, the reason the rainbow persisted was the fine mist of rain sweeping across the site, driven by a strong wind of the relentless kind.

    This didn't stop us, though it tried, and we think we got some really good photos. It's a fascinating place even when it's wet and windy. But there was sun too, and this is what made it for us.
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  • Gullfoss Waterfall

    October 26, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Upon arriving that wind was still there but the rain had stopped. This didn't hinder the Iceland ecosystem of course as it was still possible to get soaked if you ventured too close the falls.

    They are spectacular and, we read, at peak times 2000 cubic metres of water flow over those rocks every second.

    The lighting was quite grey at first but then for less than ten minutes the sun lit the falls with a warm light. Brilliant ... that's what did it for us. Two sites, two pots of luck.
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  • Geysir

    October 26, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    The place that gave its name to all the rest.

    It's an eerie place not only because you hear all the tourists in a multitude of languages shouting "Ah Captain ... there she blows!", but the ground steaming is not the sort of thing you find in the better parts of Wolverhampton. Mind you, having said that perhaps we can think of some places where a steaming landscape in Wolver'ampton may not be all that difficult to find.

    The smell of sulphur (gone off eggs to you), coloured earth with greens, reds and whites, boiling pools and a geyser which erupts every few minutes. How on earth could there be anything to photograph?

    As you can see, we tried and in the fading light this ended our day. See you tomorrow.
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  • Travelling Route 32 North

    October 27, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The aim of this morning was to explore a route more towards the interior of Iceland. The scenery was very different than yesterday, as you can see. The first part of the journey the weather was sunny with a few showers and as we neared Mount Burfell the light on the snow-topped landscape was lovely. So we decided to venture up to a viewpoint which immediately resulted in someone turning off the light. Great, thanks a lot!

    Now came the gamble - do we stay or do we go? (Isn't there a song about that?) .... we gambled and stayed in the hope the idiot who turned off the light would remember to turn it back on. Eventually, it sort of arrived but just as we'd given up. Tony thinks he may have ended up with one useful shot here but Rob? You're looking at his best effort and it was taken on the phone. Typical.
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  • Bleak Weather

    October 27, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    So we left and continued the journey which would then take us south on F26 becoming the 26. The 'F' designates an unsurfaced dirt road, though we didn't see much dirt and not a great deal of road to be honest.

    As we travelled north the weather deteriorated and our quest to find waterfalls to photograph got thwarted and in the end we found none. The four photos you see are before we turned south onto the dirt road and when we did the road was snow covered and it started to snow, quite heavily at times. At one point we experienced complete white-out though we were parked up at the time. Driving-wise we were fine with a 4x4 with studded winter tyres.

    It wasn't all yucky, as beforehand we'd travelled through some spectacular scenery with snow covered mountains bathed in a soft light. Sorry, Rob forgot to take a picture for you.

    After that however, photo opportunity were minimal and we needed to press on to get to the main waterfall of the day or, more accurately, the only waterfall of the day.
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  • Seljalandsfoss Waterfall

    October 27, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    We arrived in the hope of mixing a sunset with a waterfall but the weather was still against us with heavy wintery showers which, if they didn't soak us, the waterfall sure did. Good job our cameras can survive getting wet.

    Dull and challenging lighting made this a difficult shoot and 200 wandering tourists had to be contended with as well ... oh, and a film crew producing a commercial for Experia.com. Rob found the waterfall to show you, as you can see, and we did our best to get a decent photo though we're worried the phone beat us again - how does a phone do that? Seriously though, due to the lighting we won't quite know what the results will be until we get home and again we were pretty much the last to leave as the light ebbed its way to darkness.
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  • Skogafoss Waterfall

    October 28, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 3 °C

    A lot of lens wiping was needed here, not just because of the spray from Skogafoss but there were frequent sleet showers too. It snowed heavily for a while when we were driving here. Between showers, however, there was sunshine which created a rainbow for our waterfall photographs, not that you can tell as Rob forgot to take one for you.

    Sorry everybody: Rob has actually managed to photograph the end of the rainbow and could still not see that elusive pot of gold.
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  • Vik

    October 28, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A stunning location but the light and weather weren't with us. No sunshine and no rainbow either, just plenty of cold. We still managed to get some photos though but after far too much time spent here we moved on. The photos you see give some idea of what we saw.Read more

  • Reynisfjara Beach, Vik

    October 28, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We arrived at this iconic location at exactly the same time as a million tour buses, as you can see. Okay, so we exaggerate!

    We've renamed this beach "Penguin Beach" because that's what we think all the tourists look like as they waddle around, silhouetted against the foaming waves and preening themselves with their selfie sticks. Who or what invented those? What they need is real cameras!!!

    With a bitter wind and a Penguin (no, millions of Penguins) all over the shop then getting anything decent was hard work. Mind you, we are all FindingPenguins and maybe that's why this blog site is named as it is!
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  • Sunset Travelling to Hofn

    October 28, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This marked the end of the available light today and was taken on our journey to Hofn, which was around 150 miles. We arrived at our accommodation about 7pm but then had to drive 24 miles to find somewhere to eat. It's been a long day.

    After Skogafoss it's been a bit of a disappointing day. The time disappeared and we didn't really achieve as much as we hoped for. Tomorrow awaits.
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  • Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

    October 29, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ 🌫 10 °C

    We left our accommodation this morning in low spirits. The weather was heavily overcast, it was wet - the very wet stuff where you get very wet, wetter than a bank holiday in Blackpool and that's very very wet. Get the idea? There's more - because on the way to the place where unique photographic opportunities await, there was also fog! "Dull" does not describe it.

    So when we arrived at our next photo location we were amazed to see the view emerge before us. It was like the ice had a life of its own, a glow of subtle blues and whites set against a gentle grey toned backdrop. It was wonderful.

    We spent the whole day here in the pouring rain for it never stopped, not for a moment. Everything got soaked - the cameras, the lenses, the both of us. Was it worth it? Oh yes!
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  • Diamond Beach (Ice Beach), Jökulsárlón

    October 29, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    So, having taken more photographs than you'd be prepared to suffer, we then took a break in the cafe where hot soup and coffee were the order of the day. Not in the same bowl, by the way ... we are quite posh you know!

    At the end of the lagoon there is a channel where the ice glides out to sea, but some of it is washed back against and onto a volcanic black sand beach. This is Diamond Beach and it's where we went next, just across the road from the lagoon. Perhaps you can see why it's called Diamond Beach.

    We spent about an hour and half looking for compositions and patterns and dodging the waves, which were quite powerful having nothing to stop them between goodness knows where and Iceland. In the end, though, the light was fading, the wind nagging at us and our wet-weather gear could take no more. We reluctantly left the diamonds behind us. This had turned into an amazing day.
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  • Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon Preview

    October 29, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    About six miles from Jökulsárlón there is another, smaller lagoon not so well known by the Penguins. This is Fjallsárlón and in the fading light, and the continuing torrential rain, we decided to go and take a peek to see if it was worth a visit in the morning. We then returned to the cafe at Jökulsárlón for refreshment before ending our day.

    It's great to have you travelling with us and we're really enjoying hearing from you and reading your comments. Updating FindPenguins is also a great way to reflect on what we've done that day so we hope you're enjoying our diary and the photos we're taking for you. The view from the car does look a bit dismal doesn't but perhaps tomorrow it'll be different.
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  • Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach Revisited

    October 30, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    We woke this morning to a pleasant surprise of sunshine and clouds and much warmer too so with luck we would remain dry.

    Having visited the smaller glacial lagoon of Fjallsárlón in the rain we decided we would go and take a look to see if we could photograph it in better light. However, to get to Fjallsárlón we had to drive past Jökulsárlón and when we arrived there it was lovely ... very, very windy but bright and sunny with a golden light. It simply had to be done so the brakes were applied.

    We quickly checked out the lagoon and took a few photographs and noted how different everything now was. The icebergs were in different places and all the ice fragments by the beach were gone.

    We headed for Diamond Beach and again everything was different. Today there were far more "diamonds" and many more larger blocks of ice, all of which glistened in the morning sunshine.

    We stayed here for an hour looking for new compositions and spoilt for photo opportunities.
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  • Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon

    October 30, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    This is very different to Jökulsárlón in that it is much less intimate - the drifting ice is much further away and less of it, though perhaps this was simply as it is now, today as Jökulsárlón had changed a lot just overnight, after all. One difference, however, is the glacier that spawns the icebergs is much more imposing, as you can see.

    We stayed about an hour with the light changing every few minutes, but the location simply doesn't compare to the stunning beauty of Jökulsárlón and its beach of diamonds.
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  • Skaftafell Glacier Walk at Sunset

    October 30, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Travelling to the National Park Visitor Centre to meet our guide, the weather had changed from being a lovely sunny day to grey cloud and dull light. This was disappointing because our scheduled walk was at 3pm until 5pm and so would coincide with a sunset. It was still dull and cloudy when we stepped onto the glacier but then our luck changed and the golden light before sunset lit our world.

    Our guide was excellent, knowledgable and took us as far as you can walk before the crevasses stop you walking any further. The blues and greys of the ice, the golden sparkles of the sun's reflections, the patterns in the ice and the light of the setting sun. This was the finale of another day in Iceland.
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  • Travelling to Egilsstaðir

    October 31, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Today has been a travelling day really, with the odd stop (or three) for photos on the way. Maybe we're Penguins today!

    After breakfast we took the first photo of the view from where we've stayed the last three nights. We then started our journey to Egilsstaðir, which is just about the furthest you can get from Reykjavik unless you count all the places where the puffins hang out ... and who would want to photograph a load of puffins?

    The route along the coast was an ever changing vista of towering mountains and wide valleys. For photography though, the light remained flat, but we took a few photos on the way and spent some time just east of Hofn photographing Mt Vestrahorn trying to find the best composition ... someone can decide when we bore you with our photographs if we succeeded.

    We managed to grab a coffee and cake at Breiðdalsvík before being given the best (only) sunset so far. The final leg of the journey included a dirt road with hairpin bends and fantastic views. A wild landscape indeed, though tomorrow we travel through the Icelandic Highlands to the North where, perhaps, snow and the Aurora awaits.
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  • Travelling to Myvatn then Husavik

    November 1, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Today has once again been predominantly a travelling day, but this time to our accommodation in Husavik where we're spending three nights in a "Cabin in the Lava." We have driven through some amazing scenery reminiscent of the Arctic. The photo we took in the Highlands whilst it was snowing turned out blue for some reason, but we hope you can just about see the snow drifting across the road.

    We stopped a few times to take photographs and there's a hint of what we were up to in today's photo set. The last two photos were taken of the hot pools at Myvatn where we're returning to photograph more fully tomorrow.

    It really has been an amazing day, maybe not so much for the photography we've done but definitely for the sights we've seen. The landscape here is simply stunning but the scale of it sometimes cannot be captured by something as simple as a lens. You have to see it with your own eyes.
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  • Hveraröndor Hverir Hot Springs, Myvatn

    November 2, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    We decided to have a go at photographing the hot springs and mud pools today. After all how could we resist the opportunity to spend the day breathing that beautiful aroma of bad eggs!

    We probably spent far too long here, becoming absorbed in trying to find an angle the average Penguin hadn't taken. Who knows if we did, but we enjoyed the challenge. Not sure if egg sandwiches for tea would be welcome right now.Read more

  • Hverfjall Crater

    November 2, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    Just east of Myvatn lake lies what is probably the best preserved circular crater in the world. The first photo isn't of Hverfjall but was taken walking down its slopes back to the parking area ... Rob forgot to take a photo at the top. :-( The second photo shows the barren volcanic landscape which you can observe and contemplate having used the toilets. A bog with a view, now there's lovely!

    Hverfjall Crater is huge at 1km across and the views of the lava fields and steaming mountains from the rim of the crater were excellent.
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  • Jarðböðin Nature Baths

    November 2, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    No photos with this one.

    We ended our day soaking in the outtdoor thermal spa at Jarðböðin Nature Baths in water around 38C though the air temperature was only 3C, not including the chilling effect of the wind. Walking down the ramp into those spa waters was almost heaven on earth. The tricky bit is getting out of course, but we sussed the technique by watching what others did ... you walk up the ramp shaking your arms and legs as though you're walking on broken glass and make noises like a chimpanzee. "Oo Oo, ah ah!" You then say, "Wowee, that's cold!"

    Tomorrow we do more waterfalls.
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  • Krafla Volcano and the Víti Crater

    November 3, 2016 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Our first stop this morning was to see Víti Crater within the Krafla volcano which last erupted in 1984. We drove up through a lunar landscape covered in a dusting of snow. Okay, we know the moon isn't dusted with snow but we're trying to set the mood here! The view across the car park gives the general idea and the crater was pretty impressive.

    It was extremely cold up there but, as you can see, there was an opportunity for a warm shower afterwards. Yes, the water from that shower was just the right temperature.
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