New Year's Eve

We had heard that New Years celebrations here are centered around the Thai Pae gate of the Old City and, as is the custom in Thailand, food and eating go hand in hand with a celebration. Like the Sunday night market, the streets are closed to vehicular traffic and are lined with artisans, hawkers of all sorts and food stalls. We decided that rather than having a New Year's Eve supper out, we'd take advantage of all the street food on offer. Our celebration started in the afternoon with a late lunch at Aum Restaurant in the Old City where we dined on fresh spring rolls and a Northern Thai specialty, kao soi, a soupy coconut curry dish with potatoes and oyster mushrooms served over egg noodles and crispy noodles. Both were delicious.

Since we arrived here, we've been trying to have a foot massage at one of the parlours that is run by the blind. Every time we've gone, they were fully booked and we were turned away. This time we got smart and reserved a 3:00 PM foot massage as we walked past the shop on our way to lunch. A Thai foot massage is nothing like we experience in the West. It's based on acupuncture principles and is designed to clear you body of toxins and promote good health. Extensive poking, stroking and bending is performed on the feet, and sometimes I'm inclined to cry, "Uncle!". Once your foot has been satisfactorily tenderized. the massage moves up to your shin and calf, which is also beaten into submission. The grand finale is very firm pressure being exerted on your thigh, starting at your hip and working down to your knee. A few slaps to your calves and a few twists to your feet and toes for good measure and you're done. As painful as it sounds, it's quite relaxing (I usually manage to grab a few winks during the process) and you really do feel great when it's over. And what does this 60 minute torture session set you back? Between 150 and 200 baht, or $5.35 to $7.15 CDN, depending on the shop.

We had awakened fairly early this morning, so we thought it would be a good idea to have a power nap before heading out for the evening festivities. Unfortunately, neither Brenda nor I were able to actually doze off (I had my nap during my foot massage) so we just lazed around and chilled until we went out at 8:30.

By the time we got into the Old City, it was already approaching 9:00 PM and we were pretty hungry. One of the first food stalls we came across had some awesome looking brownies that Brenda wanted to buy. I suggested we wait and have something more substantial to eat first. We can always come back and get them later, right? We stopped a few stalls later and bought two small plates of fried rice noodles for 10 baht each. Moving on, we each had a dish of Pad Thai (30 baht) and I had a very greasy, but tasty, spring roll (5 baht). Then we had a box of five Khanom Krok, a small round fried dumpling made of rice flour and coconut milk and stuffed with spinach (35 baht). For dessert we each had a banana & Nutella crepe before we headed back to the brownie stand to buy the coup de grace. Horror of horrors! When we got there, no more brownies were to be found! As a consolation, I sheepishly suggested we wander over to the other cake stall we saw and buy brownies there. Although we can't be sure, we both believe the other guy's wares would have been much more delicious.

With our appetites more than sated, we walked into Wah Phan Tao where the monks were celebrating the New Year with meditation and chanting. It was a beautiful scene with lit candles everywhere and signs bearing the animals of the Chinese zodiac blowing in the gentle breeze. All the chairs that had been set out to accommodate the crowd were filled and we were obliged to stand, although we managed to secure a spot seated along side the temple wall. The chanting began at just after 10:30 and continued uninterrupted until 11:00. The three monks heading the chant took turns vocalizing the phrases and weaved in and out in three part harmony. One monk would start a phrase and the other two would respond, dropping in and out for effect. The incantation was mesmerizing, almost hypnotic. At 11:00 the chanting ceased and one of the monks addressed the crowd in Thai and English. He explained the history of the Wat (Thai for temple) and some principles of Buddhism. He discussed the benefits of meditation and the need for us all to sometimes, "put our monkey brains to rest". He then invited those in attendance to tie to their heads the string that was dangling from the grid above therm. This is done to ensure good luck in the coming year.The chants resumed at 11:30 and ran right past midnight. Never has meditation been so easy. The last thirty minutes of the year went by in a flash and before we knew it, it was 2017.

The head monk wished everyone well, led one final 10 minute incantation and closed the evening by dismissing the students and thanking everyone for attending.

It was a New Year's Eve like no other I've lived and one I will never forget. To share this experience with Brenda by my side made it all the more special and, of course, we shared a kiss and well wishes at midnight.

But hey, nobody's perfect. On the way home, we stopped at Archer's Bar & Restaurant for a couple of large Chang beers! What, did you really think I'd do New Year's with no booze?Read more