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La Francigena
  • Brenda and Roch
  • Brendaboo
  • Brenda and Roch
  • Brendaboo

La Francigena

A 419 km hike from Lucca in Tuscany to The Vatican in Rome. Read more
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  • La Francigena

    Stage 19: Capranica to Monterosi

    October 15 in Italy ☀️ 24 °C

    16.7 kilometers
    Elevation gain/loss: 423m/556m
    Steps: 22,855
    Total distance traveled: 356.5 km
    Distance to Rome: 52.8km

    It was another short walk today that started off under clear, but cool skies at around 8:00am.

    Leaving Capranica we had a very long, steep descent followed by an equally long, steep climb. But after that, we found ourselves on another lovely forest path that followed a mountain stream for nearly two kilometers. At times, sunbeams found their way through the forest canopy and heated the morning dew on the leaves, turning the dew drops to a fine mist.

    There were waterfalls, water wheels, and wooden bridges along the way. The dirt path was smooth, leaf covered, and slightly softened by condensation. At times, there were so many fuzzy chestnuts on the path, I was reminded of the classic Star Trek episode, "The Trouble With Tribbles."

    We came across a huge tuff and lava flow cliff, the remnants of volcanic eruptions of Mount Vico some 200,000 years ago.

    More evidence of the area's volcanic past are very clear in the town of Sutri, where we saw a Roman amphitheater carved entirely out of a single living block of volcanic tuff. Right next to the amphitheater, is an Etruscan necropolis, with dozens of ancient tombs cut directly into the tuff cliffs lining the ancient Via Cassia.

    After Sutri, the balance of the hike was mostly flat and nondescript until we approached Monterosi. At that point, the day ended as it started: a very long, steep descent followed by an equally long, steep climb.    Read more

  • La Francigena
    Cascate di Monte GelatoCascate di Monte GelatoTrees in the nature complex19th century water millApproaching Campagnano di RomaOur accommodations, Torre Antica Suite

    Stage 20: Monterosi To Campagnano di Roma

    October 16 in Italy ⛅ 24 °C

    15.2 kilometers
    Elevation gain/loss: 358m/326m
    Steps: 20,126
    Total distance traveled: 371.1km
    Distance to Rome: 42.2km

    We got off to a fairly late start since we wanted to take advantage of the free breakfast that came with our accommodations. Given how full our bellies were, we were grateful today's walk was easy, if not a bit boring, since we didn't see anything new in the first half of the walk to Campagnano di Roma except for a herd of cows in a distant field.

    At about the half way point, we got a little excited because we saw signs for "Cascate di Monte Gelato", which at first glance had us believing we were going to see a cascading mountain of gelato!

    In reality, the Monte Gelato Cascade is part of a nature complex in the Treja Valley. The complex contains the ruins of a Roman villa from the 1st century BC. We considered visiting the ruins but that would have involved an additional 6.4 km round trip hike so we gave it a pass. We did, however, visit the cascade and the 19th century water mill that remained active until the 1960s.

    The remaining half of the walk was like the first half, a little bland, until the last kilometer which got our hearts racing because it was one heck of a steep climb to Compagna di Roma.

    Tonight's accomodations are in a 14th century tower, that has, obviously, been renovated with all the modern conveniences. It's a charming apartment with beautiful ceilings, and imbued with historical vibes.

    After checking in, we went for a walk and came across a saddled donkey tethered to a storefront. Today I was not the only jackass in town.    Read more

  • La Francigena

    Stage 21: Campagnano di Roma to La Storta

    October 17 in Italy ☁️ 23 °C

    22.4 kilometers
    Elevation gain/loss: 654m/785m
    Steps: 30,651
    Total distance traveled: 393.5km
    Distance to Rome: 20.5km

    We got off to an early 7:10 start this morning for this fairly long, and penultimate stage of our trek to the Vatican.

    As Brenda so aptly put it yesterday: "we've already walked nine marathons, and we only have one more to do to reach the Vatican."

    We split the last marathon into two almost equal halves, and set out this morning to wrap this journey up over the next two days.

    This stage was very reminiscent of Tuscany, with a series of long, steep ascents followed immediately by long, steep descents. This was our eighth straight day of trekking, and our legs were really beginning to feel the hills.
    We were expecting today's walk to be fairly urban since we're only 42 kms from Rome. We were, therefore, surprised at how verdant it was. A good portion of it was through woodlands in the Veio Regional Park, a vast natural reserve located just north of Rome that covers approximately 15,600 hectares.

    We didn't see much of interest until we reached the Villa Campetti archeological site. The site’s timeline spans from the 9th century BC to the 7th century AD, showcasing continuous human occupation. Once misidentified as a Roman villa, recent excavations have reinterpreted it as a significant therapeutic and cultual centre, likely dedicated to healing through hydrotherapy.

    Our time in La Storta was very short since we were unable to find lodging there. As such, we bused back ro Campagnano to spend the night. Our AirBnb host will drive us back to La Storta tomorrow morning, where we'll pick up where we left off.

    We both have mixed feelings about reaching the end of this journey. On one hand, we're sad it's coming to it's conclusion, on the other hand, our bodies are giving us both clear signs that it's time to wrap it up.

    And now, there are only 20.5 kilometers left to enjoy. We WILL take the time to appreciate every step as we approach our goal.    Read more

  • La Francigena
    Receiving our completion certificates
    Receiving our completion certificatesThe Swiss GuardThe Vatican as seen from the Monte Mario Nature ReserveThe stone path covering the 14 switchbacksThe 14 switchbacksSt. Peter's BasilicaA quick video of what you see upon entering St. Peter'sTwo cherubs holding the holy water stoupTomb of Pope Alexander VIIThe main altarThis second altar stands about 100 meters from the main oneMichelangelo’s PietàSt. Veronica by Francesco Mochi

    Stage 22: La Storta to Rome

    October 18 in Italy ☁️ 23 °C

    20.5 kilometers
    Elevation gain/loss: 489m/622m
    Steps: 29,781
    Total distance traveled: 419km
    Distance to Rome: 0.00km

    We hit the trail at a little before 8:00 this morning, picking up exactly where we left off in La Storta yesterday afternoon.

    The urban landscape that we expected to encounter yesterday finally appeared today with a vengeance. The first 5.5 kilometers were walked alongside the modern Via Cassia, one of Rome's main thoroughfares, which was relatively quiet on an early Sunday morning. We then wandered through the forested Insugherata Nature Reserve for 4.5 kilometers before returning to a paved path for the majority of our remaining march to the Vatican. There was about a 2 kilometer long portion towards the end that passed through the Monte Mario Nature Reserve, where our elevation dropped by 100 meters over 500 meters. That drop was accomplished by maneuvering through FOURTEEN switchbacks that were paved with very uneven ancient stones. It was kinda fun trying to spot and hop from one flat stone to the next, but we were very glad we had our trekking poles to provide extra balance.

    After the switchbacks we still had 3 kilometers to walk through the streets of Rome before reaching our destination.

    The sensation of walking into St. Peter's square after hiking 419 kilometers in 22 days had us living a myriad of emotions. Joy, gratitude, melancholy and pride, to name a few. We didn't actually get a little teary until we were presented with our official Vatican certificates of completion. That was the final act that confirmed our journey had ended.

    By that time we were both exhausted by the journey and all the emotion, but we nonetheless took advantage of the free admission to the Basilica that our Pilgrim passport offered us.

    This was not our first time visiting St. Peter's, but the sense of awe one experiences when witnessing the grandeur of the building is indescribable, no matter how many visits you've made.

    There's so much to see and admire, it is truly almost sensory overload. In the best possible way.    Read more

  • La Francigena

    Epilogue

    October 19 in Italy ☀️ 25 °C

    In May, 2022, Brenda and I set out to walk the Portuguese Camino, from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostella, with our friends, Anita and Ernie.

    Although I missed the first part due to Covid, we all reached the finish line together, thirty days later.

    The experience prompted Ernie to tackle the French Camino as a solo pilgrim one year later , and was the inspiration for Brenda and me to take on La Francigena this fall.

    But it wasn't only Brenda and I making this journey.

    Roughly two and a half years ago, Ernie was diagnosed with glioblastoma, an extremely aggressive brain cancer. Despite his positive attitude, his will to survive, and everything modern medical science can offer, he succumbed to the disease last June.

    With Ernie's love of travel, his wife, Anita, felt his journeys didn't have to come to an end with his passing. Before we left, she gave us a small vial containing his ashes labeled, "Captain Adventure Ernie".

    Captain Adventure accompanied us every step of our 419 kilometers, and we left a little bit of the good Captain at over thirty places along our path where we thought he might like to spend some time, or do some good.

    He has been with us every step of the way, and he remains in our hearts always. Wherever your ashes take you, buon camino, dear friend.    Read more

    Trip end
    October 22, 2026