Stage 19: Capranica to Monterosi

16.7 kilometers
Elevation gain/loss: 423m/556m
Steps: 22,855
Total distance traveled: 356.5 km
Distance to Rome: 52.8km

It was another short walk today that started off under clear, but cool skies at around 8:00am.

Leaving Capranica we had a very long, steep descent followed by an equally long, steep climb. But after that, we found ourselves on another lovely forest path that followed a mountain stream for nearly two kilometers. At times, sunbeams found their way through the forest canopy and heated the morning dew on the leaves, turning the dew drops to a fine mist.

There were waterfalls, water wheels, and wooden bridges along the way. The dirt path was smooth, leaf covered, and slightly softened by condensation. At times, there were so many fuzzy chestnuts on the path, I was reminded of the classic Star Trek episode, "The Trouble With Tribbles."

We came across a huge tuff and lava flow cliff, the remnants of volcanic eruptions of Mount Vico some 200,000 years ago.

More evidence of the area's volcanic past are very clear in the town of Sutri, where we saw a Roman amphitheater carved entirely out of a single living block of volcanic tuff. Right next to the amphitheater, is an Etruscan necropolis, with dozens of ancient tombs cut directly into the tuff cliffs lining the ancient Via Cassia.

After Sutri, the balance of the hike was mostly flat and nondescript until we approached Monterosi. At that point, the day ended as it started: a very long, steep descent followed by an equally long, steep climb.Read more