Caravan Capers, WA

April - September 2017
A 158-day adventure by Graham n Rosie Read more
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  • 9.1kkilometers
  • Day 12

    Mindil Beach

    May 4, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Our first day in Darwin was all about hooking up the van to some air conditioning (yeah!) and cooling down in the park's swimming pool. The theme here is HUMIDITY. After enjoying these luxuries we set of for the famed Mindil Beach Markets, a glorious mix of Territorian arts, crafts and cuisine.

    The market atmosphere is jumping as locals and tourists both jostle up and down long winding rows of stalls selling tshirts, indigenous arts, wood carvings, croc and roo leather goods, happy hippy stuff, jewellery stalls etc. About a kilometre of food vans (seems like it anyway) showcase the wonderful mix that is Darwin's cultural scene - heavy On the Asian side of course but also a pinch of Greek and Russian too!

    The other thing you do is head onto the beach in time for the sunset so along with a few hundred others, thats what we did. Many people were there with wine 🍷and chairs, so it's a real tradition here. Fire twirlers were out practicing their stuff after the sun melted away into a very calm Arafura sea. I couldn't work out why no one was swimming though - it was still over 30 degrees even at 7pm. The pano I took clearly shows everyone firmly planted on land. Eventually it dawned - nobody (except backpackers apparently) swims in any of these beaches because of crocodiles! How frustrating it must be - warm, humid temperatures plus gorgeous sandy beaches is a perfect combination. It's just that you might get eaten so, best not, hey?
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  • Day 14

    Darwin Friday and Saturday

    May 6, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We spent a gorgeous evening at the Wharf, eating delicious oysters and Chilli 🌶 Mud crab. The whole experience was just magical and definitely a great memory. The evening breeze was a welcome visitor as were the many fish dancing around the jetty below us. Sipping on a crisp sav Blanc whilst watching various ships, boats and yachts of all shapes and sizes drift by. Awesome.

    The following day it was off to the Parap Markets and Nightcliff for their Seabreeze festival. Parap is famed mostly for its Laksa apparently, so when in Rome....extra Chilli = deliciousness. This tradition was recommended to us and they weren't wrong. The market itself is pretty small with many stall holders the same ones from Mindil beach. This town loves their markets so clearly the sellers do the rounds - there must be at least 4 -5 different markets going on in varied places around Darwin in any given week.

    Seabreeze was a chance to sit back for the afternoon and watch the community showcase of local music. There were lots of other activities further up the beach strip but I'm afraid the humidity got to me today so after finding a shady spot there was no chance I was going to lose it! Performers were mostly school bands etc and there were some really talented kids who I think we'll be seeing on The Voice or Australian Idol in a few year's time.

    Our last observation for the day - and one of the reasons we ❤️ Darwin, is the relaxed attitude to pretty much everything including parking. Markets and festivals notwithstanding, Darwinians are happy to park their vehicles anywhere they can. This includes median strips, footpaths, grasses verges etc. Very civilised I say, keeping the roadways clear. Councils in Adelaide could learn a thing or two about "going with the flow".
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  • Day 15

    Goodbye Darwin

    May 7, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Our final day here in balmy Darwin - an extra day would have been good but we are keen to get to the Daly River so Graham can tick off catching a barramundi from his bucket list. In the meantime, he spent a good few hours at the aviation museum, something about "boys and their big toys" that I chose not to even attempt to understand. I left him to it and stayed at the park to relax amongst a few loads of washing etc.

    In the afternoon we drove to the marina and spent a lovely couple of hours at Lola's bar - a place we enjoyed last time we were here. It's cute n funky and the beer steins are large and cold. Perfect!

    Then, just as the sun was going down we hopped across the road for fish n chips with a uniquely Darwinian sunset view. There is something special that draws so many people to embrace this moment. Can't explain why but we don't experience the same attraction of the masses to our Adelaide seaside sunsets which can be equally beautiful. Sunset over the Arafura Sea, a magnificent end to our time in Darwin, looking forward to being back soon.
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  • Day 21

    Daly River

    May 13, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    What a fabulous place! Staying at Lee and Jenny's Bushcamp was a stroke of good luck - friendly owners, green lawns, shady trees and a pool. Can't ask for much more than that. Oh wait - how about a Happy Hour viewing spot overlooking the river bend where you can watch the boats coming in each day during the Barra Classic Fishing Comp?

    This place is a Mecca for serious game fishers and it's easy to see why. The Barras are big around here and although Graham did his best, unfortunately those big buggers managed to elude him. He did however amass an impressive tally of thirteen barramundi from Bamboo Creek, which still count even if we had to throw them back. His two biggest were 42cm which, though a good size for our Weber, were still 13cm undersize. Let's face it, if you caught a 42cm bream back home, you would be pretty happy. All the same, consider that bucket list item truly ticked and just to make it official we visited the Barra Classic HQ at a nearby caravan park and picked up an official shirt for the man. To say he's pleased with himself is not a lie. Pretty chuffed I'd say!😀

    Fishing from the riverbank here also means some serious croc watching. This was my role and since Graham managed not to get eaten I'd say I did a pretty good job. They're everywhere here and so stealthy, it's quite something to watch. We brought my Pa's binoculars along and they've been great to watch these amazing (and yes, slightly terrifying) animals in their natural habitat. We were so careful to make sure we kept back from the water's edge etc although this is tricky when pulling up fish etc. Fishing off the pontoon was also probably not our best decision either and after spotting a large croc swimming around it the next day we decided not to tempt fate.

    Our final night was pretty special in the spirit of caravanners and Top End hospitality. Everyone soon gets to know everyone else in a place like this and the hospitality arrives in bucket loads. Take this for an example, a couple scored big in the Barra stakes while fishing out in their boat today. Four Barra in excess of 65cm. Not being big fish eaters they donated the barra to Lee to cook up for dinner for everyone in the park. Jen then door knocked everyone in the park inviting one and all to a "barra cookup" under hot coals and to bring something to share. Well, we've never seen so many varieties of potato salad, potato bake and chips in our life. Potato is a staple for caravanners on the road, so not so strange to see everyone bring a potato "something" to share as salad is hard to come by out here. Good humour and fun were shared by all. Jen topped off the night with dessert by serving up tiramisu for everyone.

    One final gracing of hospitality came from our caravan neighbours, Brian and his wife, who presented us with a 68 cm barra (filleted), to add to our freezer. A little something to sustain us on our journey as we head West. Thanks guys for adding to our special memories. Our time on the Daly has been awesome!
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  • Day 24

    Zebra Rock Mines

    May 16, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Spending a couple of nights at Zebra Rock Mines was a great decision - we met some great people, Rosie scored some cute earrings and we enjoyed silver cobbler and chips (a new experience) and a brilliant sunset cruise featuring many highlights as the afternoon turned to sunset and twilight turned to night - appreciative guests in nature's wonderland.

    The caravan park is a rustic little place with cold showers but has a lovely cafe area with the most amazing tables cut from great slabs of Zebra stone. We spent more than a few hours around those tables enjoying the atmosphere of the place and a few beers. Cane toad spotting was also an interesting exercise in the evenings.
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  • Day 26

    Lake Argyle

    May 18, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We only stayed one night at this pretty, grassy green caravan park but it was one of those things we really wanted to do for the infinity swimming pool. What we didn't realise was just exactly how beautiful the view of the lake was from the park. It's what Graham refers to as a "wonder and awe" experience. Musician Steve Case (no relation to Justin), entertained us as the sun went down and swelled the colours of the rock to a vibrant, fiery yellow and red - such a glorious view. Bonus!Read more

  • Day 31

    Kununurra Part One

    May 23, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    Crossing the border into WA requires careful preparation - no fruit, veg, peanuts or honey are allowed, so we made sure those items were tossed out or eaten before arriving. Contrary to what we were led to believe, the guys at "Checkpoint Charlie" were fast and friendly and we passed inspection with no problems, luckier than some. We headed to Kununurra and arrived for a 9 night stay at the Showgrounds. We caught up with Richard and Andrea there - a lovely couple we'd had fun meeting at Zebra Rock. No doubt we'll see them on down the road again some time.

    The Ord Valley Muster is on at the moment so we decided to hang around and enjoy some of the events. Highlights of the first 4 days included: attending our first Rugby League match - Townies VS Country - good clean local fun; digging up a serious sweat at the Argyle Diamond Dig event; watching some fabulous Aussie short films at the Flickerfest roadshow AND laughing ourselves silly as a lineup of comedians tried desperately to remember their material whilst being attacked by millions of moths onstage. (Beautifully choreographed and funnier than some of their jokes. 😂) The pre-show entertainment was amazing - two local guys playing great music 🎶 that we could have listened to all night.

    We also managed a trip to Stonecraft to look at their Zebra rock carvings. We couldn't resist picking up a few pieces including an awesome - and very heavy - candle holder and a fabulous hand painted tray depicting the Bungle Bungles. Artist Jo was happy to pose with her work!
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  • Day 32

    Kununurra Part Two

    May 24, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    We took a day trip to El Questro today, visiting Zebedee Springs just in time for a relaxing soak. Little pools of warm bliss are formed by the rocky creek bed, creating intimate little spaces to claim for your own. The lush canopy and bubbling creek were a magic combination.

    We also managed a bit of 4 wheel driving on our way to Pigeon's Lookout - a seriously, decent creek crossing (so glad we fitted the snorkel) and (what seemed like) a vertical climb over huge rocks tested our nerve. Teeth still rattling, we get to the top and discover not only that we lost a towing mirror but that our storage frame in the back collapsed under the pressure. Ah the joys of it all! Aside from the few hiccups, the panoramic vista which awaited us (of the Pentecost River) was worth it!

    Leaving El Questro (minus said mirror), we headed on to Wyndham, a town famous for the place where 5 rivers meet. The lookout area is amazing but the iPhone photos could never capture the immensity of the scene and do it justice.

    Returning to Kununurra we enjoyed sunset overlooking the town from Kelly's Knob Lookout. An eventful day! I
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  • Day 35

    Kununurra Part Three

    May 27, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Our time in Kununurra almost at an end, we managed to fit in the Kimberley Moon Experience as a terrific finale. Amazing entertainment all afternoon, including Mirima dancers, Luke O'Shea and the McClymonts.

    The "Welcome to Country" was fabulous, as was the Kununurra Community Choir. Daryl Braithwaite was really entertaining, and got the best crowd reaction when singing Howzat! and The Horses.

    Jimmy Barnes and band put on an amazing show - no time to chat with the crowd as they punched out song after song. Awesome to see a living legend simply doing what he does. Loved it!❤️
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  • Day 37

    Purnululu (Bungle Bungle Range)

    May 29, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Only entering mainstream consciousness in the 1980's, Purnululu was definitely one of Australia's best kept secrets. It's still not particularly easy to get to but well worth the 53km 4 wheel drive track off Highway One! This takes around an hour and a half. And that just gets you to the Visitor Centre. From there you have another 45min drive south to reach Cathedral Gorge. But oh, what an amazing place. It takes about an hour to walk in from the car park and the rewards were great. The sheer size of the gorge is unbelievable - and the echoing acoustics are incredible, hence the name of course. In one of the photos Graham is completely dwarfed by his surroundings. The "seahorse" shape made by the curving walls was pretty speccy also.

    This is the spot where you also see the famous striped "domes" or beehives, better known as the "Bungle Bungles". Up close they are completely stunning of course and our photography doesn't do them justice. This coloured landscape is breathtaking for its landforms and native flora, including some beautiful native grevillea that is truly stunning against a deep blue sky.

    We made our way to the North side where Graham did Echidna Gorge - a 2hr walk along a pebbly creek bed, enjoying the scenery as the rock "walls" became progressively narrower. Stunning!

    So that was Purnululu - so glad we did it, 26 water crossings in and 26 water crossings out. Bucket list ticked!
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