Cooktown

Cooktown’s got more history packed into its dusty streets than most Australian towns twice its size, so we decided to spend a proper day exploring what this frontier settlement has to offer.

We made our way up to Grassy Hill Lookout for the panoramic views across the region. The climb is worth the effort - from up there you get the whole sweep of the coastline, the Endeavour River mouth, and the hinterland stretching away to the west. On a clear day you can see why this spot was chosen as a natural harbour - it’s one of the few decent anchorages along this stretch of coast. The view gives you a real sense of just how isolated this place is, surrounded by Cape York wilderness in every direction.

The main street has that classic frontier town feel - wide enough to turn a bullock team around, with verandahed buildings that have seen better days but still maintain their character. There’s enough heritage architecture to give you a sense of what this place was like during the Palmer River gold rush when it was briefly one of the busiest ports in Australia.

Down at the foreshore there’s the monument marking where Cook’s party came ashore back in 1770 when the Endeavour ran aground on the reef and limped into the river for repairs. Standing there looking out over the water, you can imagine what it must have been like for both the Europeans and the local Guugu Yimithirr people witnessing each other for the first time. The setting is still remarkably unchanged - mangroves, mudflats, and that sense of being at the edge of the world.

We watched the sun go down along the Endeavour River foreshore, and what a perfect way to end the day. There’s something special about watching the sun set over this historic waterway, cold drink in hand, while the river reflects the changing colours of the sky even if it is potentially illegal. The peaceful atmosphere and the sense of history make it one of those moments that stick with you.

It’s not fancy, but Cooktown’s got genuine character - the kind of place where history feels immediate rather than academic, and where you can still get a real sense of what frontier Australia was like.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​Read more