Lions Den Hotel, Wujal Wujal & Black Mtn

Decided to explore south of Cooktown for the day, taking in some proper frontier territory and geological wonders along the way. It’s a decent drive through country that ranges from coastal views to some of the most unusual rock formations you’ll see anywhere in Australia.

First stop was the legendary Lions Den Hotel at Helenvale. This place has to be seen to be believed - a proper old-school pub that’s been serving travellers since 1875. The walls are covered with business cards, stubby holders, and decades worth of graffiti from visitors who’ve made the pilgrimage. It’s the kind of establishment where the beer’s cold, the stories are tall, and everyone’s got time for a chat. The current owners keep the tradition alive beautifully - it’s exactly what you’d hope an outback pub would be.

Bloomfield was next, though calling it a town is being generous. It’s more of a scattered community nestled where the Bloomfield River meets the sea. The scenery here is spectacular - dense rainforest, crystal clear river, and that sense of being properly isolated from the rest of the world. You can see why people choose to live in places like this, even if it means being hours from the nearest decent shops.

Wujal Wujal is an Aboriginal community that sits in stunning country where the Bloomfield River winds through mountains and rainforest. We were respectful visitors, just passing through, but you can’t help but appreciate the connection between the people and this landscape that goes back thousands of years. The drive through this area is genuinely breathtaking - the kind of country that makes you understand why Queensland’s reputation for natural beauty is well deserved.

Black Mountain National Park was our final stop, and what an extraordinary place. These massive granite boulders piled on top of each other create one of the most unusual landscapes you’ll see anywhere in Australia. The Aboriginal name is Kalkajaka, meaning “place of the spear,” and you can understand why - the dark granite formations jut up from the surrounding country like giant spears thrust into the earth.

The rocks themselves are fascinating from a geological perspective, but there’s something almost otherworldly about the place. Local Aboriginal stories speak of the mountain being home to spirits, and frankly, standing among those towering boulder formations, you can feel why. The whole area has an atmosphere that’s hard to describe - not threatening exactly, but definitely commanding respect.Read more