• Rudy Mikšánek
  • Anastasha Morse
  • Rudy Mikšánek
  • Anastasha Morse

Japan - Winter 2023

A 16-day adventure by Rudy & Anastasha Read more
  • Trip start
    February 4, 2023
  • Yumomi at Netsunoyu

    February 8, 2023 in Japan

    Since the hot spring waters at Kusatsu Onsen come out of the ground at near-boiling temperatures, they need to be cooled before being used for bathing. However, a technique is needed that does not affect the mineral qualities of the waters. “Yumomi” is a traditional method of using wooden paddles to stir the water, performed by two lines of women on either side, singing folk songs. There are daily reenactments of “yumomi” at Netsunoyu bathhouse. ¥700, 30 minutes. And, in non-corona times, members of the audience can try it for themselves!Read more

  • Bessho Onsen

    February 16, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 -6 °C

    An old hot spring resort south of Nagano, Bessho Onsen is a quiet mountain town with a handful of public baths, old temples, and a small shopping street shaded by large red umbrellas. Apparently girls in traditional dresses are supposed to greet you at the train station, but the Internet clearly lied to us. Anyway, it was a picturesque station and the train was nice and old-looking, too.

    When we got into town, we first stopped at a nice cafe with a wood-burning stove. We both got coffee, but I got the last slice of toast.

    Then we wandered around, eventually reaching Anrakuiji, which has an interesting octagonal pagoda (and yes, we counted up the sides to confirm). Next, we stopped by main Aisome no Yu public bath, and Anastasha also visited Oyu, a large traditional neighborhood bath, while I took some photos around town.
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  • Tokyo Skytree

    February 17, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    The view from Tokyo Skytree. Anastasha wouldn’t let us eat at Hawaii Burger again, so I think we ended up getting ramen or something instead.

    I think Skytree calculates their floor numbers very deceptively. Because we took the elevator up to Floor 350 (that’s the view pictured) and then went up to Floor 450 (which was definitely higher but, not like, the height of multiple skyscrapers).Read more

  • Matsushima Bay

    February 18, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    With 250 islands dotted with pine trees, Matsushima Bay is one of the three classic views of Japan. We took the shinkansen from Tokyo to Sendai and a local train to Shiogama before boarding a one-hour sightseeing ferry. The boat goes through surprisingly shallow water, only 2 meters deep in some places. Both of us thoroughly enjoyed the boat ride (much more so than the grumpy tourist with a Kyushu University sweatshirt who just sat looking pouty at the back of a chair the whole ride).

    Once we reached the other side of the bay (Matsushima itself), we walked across the 250-meter-long Fukuurabashi bridge to Fukuurajima to explore some walking trails through the pine trees (I almost didn’t make it to the island, since the bridge was actually 251 meters long, significantly longer than I expected). Anyway, the views from Oshima Island were much better since you can see “whale” and “turtle” island (Kujirajima and Kamejima) from there. Oshima also had some historical stuff.
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  • Sumida Aquarium

    February 19, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Located at the Tokyo Skytree, Sumida Aquarium is a small but impressive sanctuary for wet animals. While its Magellanic penguins may be the most “famous,” there are also great exhibits on the endemic sea life of the Ogasawara Islands, the amazing diversity of jellyfish, and self-sustaining freshwater “aquascapes.” And, perhaps most importantly, the cafe has an abundance of delicious animal-themed snacks (there’s supposedly a garden eel-inspired puffed corn treat, but they aren’t selling it temporarily—I suspect [with almost zero evidence] there was an incident where someone fed some to a penguin).Read more

    Trip end
    February 19, 2023