Rwanda
Nyarugenge District

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    • Day 33

      Working from Impact Hub Kigali

      February 27, 2023 in Rwanda

      There is no WWF office in Rwanda, but a very active Impact Hub community. This morning the plan was to go to Impact Hub, Anne would give a presentation, and I would use the time to find a new home for the next week or so. Well, it turned out to be near impossible to find a cab for the 7min ride to IH. Whenever I ordered a taxi, the driver would immediately call me to reconfirm my location. A bit annoying in times of GPS, but easy to explain.

      But then they would just not show up! It was extremely frustrating. We ended up calling four different taxis across multiple platforms and even more attempts. Only after around 25min the second taxi we had called showed up, looong after I had already canceled the ride with him. He must've remembered the address, gone to run an errand, and then check up on us 20min later... Or something like that.

      Anyways, we finally had a taxi, and made it to IH a bit too late, but all was well. While Anne was working her magic, I worked mine, and after I finally heard back from our desired Airbnb's host (she's away on vacation, unable to host us this week, but would love to host us in Kigali *another time* - two magic words that would've been helpful to write in the first message she sent us), I found another incredible looking place within our budget not too far away, which was then immediately confirmed.

      When we got there in the evening after a day of work, it turned out that the room we rented was located *inside* of a super cozy looking coffee shop, through a door leading to the back area. There was a secret garden in the back, good for doing yoga or other exercise, unlimited fiber optic internet, and a good kitchen on site, with fresh breakfast included in the room rental. It was pretty cool 😎 It was owned and operated by a female entrepreneur that also operated a travel agency from within the premises.

      The coffee shop was super chill, and only closed from 10pm to 9am, so plenty of quiet time for restful sleep outside of opening hours.
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    • Day 17

      A Sunday at the pool in Kigali

      July 16, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Our last day in Rwanda, before our flight to Amman tonight. Qatar Airlines have cancelled all their flights to Kigali, and at the same time cancelled our onward flight to Amman - fortunately our travel agent was onto it quickly and rebooked us a Kenyan Airways flight to Nairobi, then Qatar Airways to Doha, and a new flight to Amman. The net result is that we don't have a 12 hour stopover in Doha and we get to Amman 4 hours earlier, so it's turned out ok.

      Late breakfast - massive smorgasbord of cereal, fruit, hot and cold meats, freshly squeezed juices (bush tomato was the favourite), pastries, cheeses and our favourite new term, active cooking!

      Aloys was available today to take people to the airport, shopping, to museums, church services and caching! A few went to the tail end a local church service (the full service was from 7am - 11am), while Kerry and Ruth visited the Natural History Museum and we went along to attempt the cache nearby.

      The museum staff first told us the cache was inside the museum grounds and we would have to pay $10 USD each to access it. The cache notes indicate it was outside the museum, so we declined her offer and undertook our own search. We found the spot indicated in the spoiler photo, but the cache was gone. The security guard told Aloys she knew the location, but she took us to the previous coordinates, so we went back to the correct spot and found an empty screw top container in the grass that looked like it could have been the cache container. We were carrying a spare log, so we put it in the container and found a more secure hiding spot very nearby.

      We returned to the hotel briefly before heading out again with Kerry and Ruth to the Genocide Memorial - Ruth to check out the souvenir shop, while we took Kerry in search of the cache we missed 2 weeks ago. We had it in hand very quickly this time, while 2 armed guards looked on quizzically - funny how on second look you wonder how you missed it the first time! We can now claim to have competed every cache in one country - I'm sure that won't happen again!

      Back to the hotel for packing, and the atmosphere has hotted up, with a live band playing near the outside bar. Sunday afternoon around this pool was the place to be seen pre-1994 - local families, expats, politicians, military and business people all mingled together and much of the capital's business was done here over a drink.
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    • Day 267

      Kigali, Rwanda

      September 13, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      We had a few more days to fill in before our trip home from Johannesburg, so we took a three hour flight to Kigali. The city was green and very hilly. The locals seemed friendly and we felt very safe. Unfortunately mum was quite sick, so we didn’t do too much in the city. I really wanted to trek with the gorillas but it was extremely expensive and we didn’t have much time. The highlight of our visit to the city was the genocide memorial, where we learnt about the genocide between the Hutu and Tutsi people of Rwanda. It took place in 1994 and between 500000 and 80000 people were killed. The country has recovered remarkably well and now is a leader in Africa in many progressive areas (women’s right and climate change). Rwanda is also famous for it’s coffee culture so Alex and I enjoyed trying out the trendy cafes around the hillsides.Read more

    • Day 34

      Private taxis and traveling by motorbike

      February 28, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      The previous night we were given the number of a reliable taxi driver to drive us to our accommodation. After all the horror experiences we made in the previous 24h, this worked super smooth. We called him, he said it would take him 10min to come, after 8min he was there, and found our place immediately via the most direct route. It was a breeze!

      But, without luggage, there are other opportunities to be had in Kigali. The most common mode of transportation is by far the motorbike. We grabbed a few motos in the morning and scooted over to IH again to be productive. I picked up lunch from a place nearby, which we ate between a few meetings that we had.

      In the evening, we followed a food recommendation from one of Anne's friends, and ended up walking to a rather fancy (and pricey) place. But the food arrived relatively quickly (an abnormality in Rwanda) and tasted good though out servers were a bit all over the place - not in a good way.

      Speaking of walking. In the places we had visited in previous weeks, the general recommendation was always to not move by foot after sunset. This was different in Rwanda, where we had been assured by many that it was totally safe to move around by foot also after sunset. A major reason for that is also that Rwanda has installed proper lights throughout the entire country, so it's a difficult task to find a "shady" area to get in trouble in.
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    • Day 28

      Genocide Museum

      November 6, 2023 in Rwanda

      Although very depressing, the genocide museum, which occupied most of the day, was one of the most shocking, interesting, depressing, reflective, and horrifying experiences in my life. Their capacity to paint an insane picture of the reality of life in Rwanda during the genocide was insane. The graphic photos, videos, commentaries, interviews, and much more meant that you could barely speak as you left. Of course, as is so common with dark parts of history, this all started with colonialism. In which the Belgians separated the people of Rwanda into Tutsi and Hutu tribes. Although these groups existed before colonial rule, the rigidification that the Belgians implemented meant that distinction between the two groups became increasingly easier, even adopting identification cards. Something that would be a horrible tool for catching and killing Tutsis during the genocide many years later. To summarise a somewhat intricate and long period of time, the Hutus were left in charge by the Belgians when the country gained independence. This led to widespread discrimination of the Tutsi people. A civil war between exiled Tutsi and the national armed force worsened tensions between the groups and an increase in anti-Tutsi propaganda. When the Rwandan presidents plane was shot down while landing in Kigali in 1994, the genocide started. Almost immediately, road blocks were set up to stop and kill Tutsis. Men, women, and children would be bludgeoned or machetesed to death while trying to escape the carnage. Neighbours and friends would turn on their Tutsi counterparts and ransack houses, killing anyone inside. Priests would allowed the demolishen and burning of churches, knowing that Tutsis had sought refuge there from the violence - thinking they would not murder in a religious buildings. Nearly a million Tutsi and moderate Hutus were killed in less than 100 days. Hutus who did not wish to participate in the violence or had married or had sexual relations with a Tutsi, would be viciously tortured and murdered. The violence was sudden and widespread. So suddenly, in fact, that 800,000 people had been killed in the first 6 weeks, equating to about 20,000 people per day. The violence only ended when the national army regained control of the country and pushed the extremists out. Many went to the DRC, and this has resulted in instability to this day. Random and sporadic terrorist attacks on Rwandans and tourists from the DRC are somewhat common and may be the reason for the Queen Elizabeth National Park terrorist attack. Those who remained in the country were prosecuted in the Gacaca courts. Though by the end of the genocides there were only about 5 judges and 20 lawyers remaining in the country. 1 million deaths and 2 million migrants left the stability of the country in tatters. As such, they relied on confessions, allowing perpetrators to confess to crimes, determine the location of bodies to give proper burials, and in return received half sentences. Many came forward to confess to crimes, and those who didn't would have the full brunt of the legal system to face and obtain full sentences. The new regime preached forgiveness and togetherness to move past the atrocities, and many followed suit to allow the country to rediscover their own national identity, culture, and stability. No photos could be taken from inside the museum, so I only have a few photos of the outside of the museum. We spent nearly 4 hours here but you could spend more.

      Eventually, we arrived at our accommodation for the night and began to get ready to head to a restaurant. For the first time on the trip, we had a meal paid for by the tour (or at least partly). Caroline joined us for dinner, and we had a few drinks and introduced her to everyone. It was nice to have a meal cooked for us where we didn't have to pay
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    • Day 37

      Lunch with Annie

      March 3, 2023 in Rwanda ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

      Lunch for today was something special. We'd found out about this lunch event happening in the private home of a Rwandan grandma. We went there by moto (Anne's ran out of fuel again...), and then enjoyed a wonderful three course lunch with fantastic views over the many hills of Kigali.

      Speaking of hills. One thing we were not quite clear about before we came was that Rwanda is known as the "Land of a thousand hills". A fitting name, because once you master one hill, another one awaits behind the next corner. These hills are everywhere.
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    • Day 16

      Hotel Rwanda

      July 15, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Our last morning in the volcanoes region, breakfast was 8.30 and we chose the "active cooking" option (omlette cooked while you wait).

      The drive back to Kigali is only 80km, but the winding roads and number of hills makes it a multi hour trip, especially when you throw in souvenir stops!

      We departed Kinigi at 9.40am, had a lengthy stop at the local souvenir market, then a stop in Musanze for water. The town was festooned with red, white and blue, the colours of the president's party, RPF - the general election is on August 4 and the current president, Paul Kagame, was due to visit the region this weekend. As part of his election campaign, he offered free petrol to all moto taxis, so there was quite a queue at the local servo.

      We made a stop at the halfway point for some supplies of banana wines and to sample some bbq'd maize.

      We arrived in Kigali at 2.30pm and headed straight to the Hotel des Mille Collines - the "Hotel Rwanda", as depicted in the movie. Lunch was under the verandah near the pool (NY Club sandwich for me, chicken burger for Oliver).

      After we settled into our room, we went for a quick shopping expedition. While we waited for the drivers, we looked for the cache in the hotel car park. It didn't take long with 6 sets if eyes looking! (for the record, muggle Vaal found it)

      Shopping was at a craft market for last minute souvenirs , then the supermarket for food supplies. Tea was in the hotel's outdoor restaurant (pork chops, Nile perch).

      Stayed: Hotel des Mille Collines
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    • Day 4

      From Heaven to Hell

      July 3, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      7am breakfast on the outdoor deck of the Heaven restaurant, under the shade of an Umuvumu tree. This is significant because it's the tree which is found in many villages where they hold town meetings, and is a symbol of repair and reconciliation. For this particular tree, the workers cut through the large roots on one side of the tree when constructing the deck - even though the owners gave instructions to leave the trees untouched - but to their amazement, the tree sent down stilts to support and repair itself on the damaged side, and is still going strong today.

      After a fab breakfast buffet including fresh juice (pineapple, Japanese plum/bush tomato and mango), and an omlette toasted in a chipati, we headed out on a city tour.
      It's a public holiday today for Independence Day (it was actually on July 1, but is observed on the next working day), but the streets were still busy with moto-taxis, bicycles and pedestrians galore.

      Our first stop was the Genocide Memorial and Museum, which was a very sombre experience. On the site, there are 250,000 victims of the 1994 genocide buried in mass graves, where tourists visit to pay respects, and locals visit to have a sense of family, where often they are the only surviving member of their family.

      The museum follows the history of Rwanda from pre colonial days to today, mainly concentrating on the 100 days from April to July 1994 where 1 million people were killed, mostly by machete.

      After the killing stopped on 4 July 1994, a government of national unity was formed, which urged people to rebuild their lives together, without seeking revenge - quite an undertaking! It's hard to imagine how they do it, but Rwandans try to meet face to face with the people who killed their loved ones, or with the survivors of people they themselves killed. They have a determination to move on with life, to get past the seemingly impossible, no matter who or what they must forgive, in others or in themselves.

      They achieved this feat through Gacaca (grass) courts, literally held in the village square, often under an Umuvumu tree. Over the space of 10 years, 12,000 community based courts were convened across the country, and 1.9 million cases heard - those who admitted their part in the genocide, confesed fully and asked for forgiveness face to face with surviving family members, were offered half their sentence as community service building roads, making bricks or building houses for survivors. Many survivors were able to learn the fate of loved ones, locate their bodies and bury them with dignity, often at the Genocide Memorial site.
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    • Day 6

      Mongoose and markets

      July 5, 2017 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      This morning we had a game drive before breakfast, to try and see some of the nocturnal animals as they return home. Coffee was served at 5.15am and we were off in the dark at 5.30am.

      We spotted hyena in the distance and were pleasantly surprised when they headed towards us to check us out. The plains were teeming this morning with all sorts of antelope, buffalo, zebra and bird life (for the twitchers, the highlight this morning was a lilac breasted roller). The unexpected find was a family of mongoose we watched darting around the grass.

      We arrived back at camp at 9.00am for breakfast, then left the park by the northern gate for the trip back to Kigali. There is no road diect to Kigali from the northern end of the park, so we drove back to Kayonza, dropped off our National Park guide Herman, and continued on to Kigali for lunch (buffet at an Italian restaurant)

      We checked in at the hotel, had an hour to have a shower, and was ready to go to the markets for our first shopping opportunity (Oliver first had to meet Justifiee, a friend of the hotel receptionist, who is sewing up a dress and skirt for her from a local fabric).

      The market area of town was very busy, mostly with locals as there are are relatively few tourists around. All the shops sell the same range of products aimed at tourists, and bartering isn't done with much vigour - they will generally only take 1000 francs (approx $1.60) off the starting price - so the negotiations are over quickly. Our tour leader Aloys took us to a number of different shops and each shopping centre had metal detectors and bag searches at the entrance, which took a little longer the more everyone bought!

      Tea tonight was a banquet at Republic, including chilli coconut fish, goat stew, fried plantain, garlic potatoes and ginger rice.

      Some of the ladies wanted to return to the market to buy some more fabric, so one vehicle went back into the centre of town. The streets were still busy, but unfortunately most if the shops were closed, so no purchases were made.

      Back to the hotel at 10.30pm.

      Stayed: Heaven Boutique Hotel Chalet
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    • Day 3

      Getting acclimatised

      May 25, 2018 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      A day in Kigali, no proper cycling today although we did set the bikes up and have a little ride out - the cobbles certainly have a way of checking all is tightened well - it wasn't, but is now - hopefully!

      After we took a trip into Kigali, starting with the genoide memorial. Difficult to fully describe, over 250,000 people are interned there, no words really suffice. 24 years on and it's still raw. We came to Rwanda for a night in 1996 and looking back I don't think I understood the full magnitude of what had happened.

      After a great lunch at the Ubunwe Grande Hotel with amazing views over Kigali, it was a spot of shopping- African style ! Great fun and great people. Have to say we avoided the ‘clean meat place’ - so no Sunday roast I am afraid!

      Tonight had a talk by an amazing visionary who was behind the project to replace Burundian cows with friesian cows that produce loads more milk, lifting families out of poverty. His latest project is to produce organic stevia- a natural sugar substitute- and giving the producers free chicks to fertilise the land, a brilliant but simple idea. Lots of opposition from sugar producers and GM stevia seed manufacturers, but he is persevering and succeeding! Tomorrow we cycle!

      Psalm 67 1-2
      May God be gracious to us and bless us
      and make his face shine on us—
      so that your ways may be known on earth
      your salvation among all nations.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Nyarugenge District, District de Nyarugenge, Akarere ka Nyarugenge

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