Africa

October - December 2023
A 67-day adventure by Jarrod Read more
  • 66footprints
  • 7countries
  • 67days
  • 851photos
  • 52videos
  • 32.3kkilometers
  • 24.6kkilometers
  • Day 2

    Marina

    October 11, 2023 in the United Arab Emirates ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Due to the considerable heat in Dubai and my energy and social battery levels being at an all-time low, I did very little in the mornings. This continued for my trip in Dubai. In fact, this morning, like all others to follow, simply involved talking to friends, catching up on journals, and trying to organise myself for my Africa trip. This was particularly true today as I slept as long as possible and began to scour the Africa itinerary searching for important details I may be missing. In the end, I lounged around until late afternoon when I figured I may be able to find a nice sunset over the Nearby Dubai beaches. Despite staying in a hostel, the area of Dubai was quite high-end and included a nice beach walk. I started here and caught a brief glimpse of the sunset before continuing along the beach. Eventually, though, this transitioned into the dubai marina. This is a major tourist attraction, due to the nice bars and restaurants that flood the marina, with nice yachts and boats offering rides and trips. I walked here for quite a few kms, as it is massive, before looping around and heading back to the hostel for bed. Dinner tonight was KFC as it was actually quite cheap and on my way home. The last photo is the view from my bed within the hostel. Which is very good because I would spend a lot of my time here.Read more

  • Day 3

    Dubai Burj Khalifa

    October 12, 2023 in the United Arab Emirates ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    After a slack morning and a nice sleep in, i headed toward the old town of Dubai at about 2pm. This was a unique experience and not something I expected to find in Dubai. Although I enjoyed a slightly different experience in Dubai, I couldn't help but feel as though this was slightly put on. Something about it didn't feel particularly legit. A lot of the buildings were in perfect condition, with little artefacts sprinkled about (like mule carts), that kind of made it feel tacky and fake. I'm unsure if that's true, but that's kind of how it felt. Regardless, it was cool to walk through, though some of the salesmen were a bit pushy and, somehow, I was talked into overpaying for some tea. I felt like a fuckwit. Although I was just keen to walk around, the people just keep convincing you to come into their store and then harassing you. I just wanted to look, but that's not an option to them. When you walk away the price drops significantly. The bartering capacity is reflected by a man being talked down from 480 Durham's to 70 for a scarf. I still didn't take it. Some other stores were quite cool, selling cool and interesting artefacts and figures but I was done with shopping after my stupid tea purchase. I went to the Dubai museum but that was closed. I was also keen to see the global village but this is also closed in Dubai at the moment. After a bit more wandering, I headed back to the train station to go to the Dubai Frame.

    Another thing worth mentioning is the transport system in Dubai. Dubai hugs the coast, and as a result, there is a simple train system that follows the 14-lane highway that the city seems to emerge from. It hurts to see a city built so heavily around cars, but that's the world we live in now. It does mean that the public transport systems can mirror the highway and provide access across the city relatively quickly and easily. That being said, it is a massive and hot city, so any bit of walking you have to do, sucks a lot.

    Getting to the Dubai Frame is quite easy however, and I arrived maybe 15 mins later. The trains run every few minutes. This was a cool experience as it is a huge monument that stands out from miles away. The purpose of it? Tourism I guess as it is simply a viewing point of the city. I decided it would be sufficient to see the building as the view. I walked through the park that is shadows and enjoyed the view of the monument. It wasn't incredibly expensive for Dubai standards but I wasn't overly excited to pay money for the view. In the end, the best view I got of the city was the Uber to my accommodation from the airport. Dubai at night is truly the personification of human' domination of mother nature. A landscape that should be little more than desert has found a way to become the most awe-inspiring collection of lights and buildings. I had very little desire to see New York in my life, and I still don't. But the appeal of the city of lights makes more sense to me now. Dubai was colourful, joyful, magnificent, and truly one of humans' most remarkable achievements. I would always choose Dubai over New York for a few very clear and obvious reasons that anyone should consider before choosing New York. Safety. I would regularly see people leaving cars running while they would disappear for 10/15 minutes, leave macbooks in public places, and even wallets in open top cars. I was shocked how this was possible. Secondly, cleanliness. The condition of the streets and pathways was always immaculate. The amount of public servants paid to clean every part of the city was astonishing, and it's reflected in how clean it is. Third, Plazas. They have built the city revolving around the plazas that each block contains. 5 or 6 skyscrapers would occupy each block of land. But in between, there would be social areas with places for kids to play, pools, barbers, restaurants, and more. It doesn't mean that it is a city that caters to a suburban lifestyle, but it does a fairly good job of maintaining social connections amongst the citizens, and it was nice to see people using it every afternoon. Planning. The city is incredibly well planned and funded, so getting around is easy and efficient. This doesn't even mention the streets have character that I'm not sure you get in New York. The streets that surround major tourist attractions are not boring, which is something I never thought I'd say. But with starlit trees, sports cars, skyscrapers in the background, and unique parks and artefacts around it really creates a unique experience I don't think you'd get in New York. Finally, culture. Many may not like the Islamic beliefs or norms, but I think it makes the people and city beautiful. There are parts of the city that the religion really brings to life. Whether through the Mosques or prayer rooms. The people are incredibly friendly and love to talk to you.

    After the Dubai Frrame, I went to the encapsulation of Dubai itself, the Burj Khalifa. The first feeling when you look up at it is incredible. It really does take your breath away. It just goes up and up and up, towering over all the other enourmas skyscrapers. After some time pondering the scale of the building, I figured I'd head inside the Dubai mall and try to find the fountains that only improve the view of the building. The problem is that I did not take the walkway from the train station, and because of this, I entered from the road, nothing made sense in the shopping centre. I spent about half an hour walking around and simply could not find my way to the Fountain. I was quite tired and desperate to get home and have something to eat, as I had no eaten all day. But even finding the exit took me about half an hour, and I was very done by this point, and I just wanted to go home. Although I got a good tour of part of the shopping centre I was mostly keen to see bed. Eventually, I found the exit and made my way to the train station, and eventually home. Tonight, dinner was maccas as it was once again affordable, quick, and easy. Tomorrow, I was sure to provide myself enough food to fuel a biggish day and not tire out.
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  • Day 4

    Jarrod vs Mall Round 2

    October 13, 2023 in the United Arab Emirates ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    All that I had planned for today was to go back to the Dubai mall to purchase some necessities for my trip to Africa as well as see the Fountain display in front of the Burj Khalifa. Yesterday I thought the Dubai mall was big, today I could not believe how long I spent walking around. I did not even enter many stores and honestly walked for hours on end, trying to see it all. I started in the Chinatown section, which was really cool, and had some great food for quite cheap. I then visited the ice rink they had inside before heading to the Fountain display. I timed it perfectly to see the show, and it was quite incredible. Especially with how they light up the Burj Khalifa to add to the experience. I then went toward the Souk Al Bahar Dubaï Mall, which had a really cool and incredibly expensive food court thing. I would have loved to try some, but it was like 30 aud for a single bao bun. It's not worth sticking around too long. After some more wandering around the outside of the shopping centre, I decided it was time to head home. I didn't have a lot of luck getting what I needed for my Africa tour, meaning I had one more day to find the necessities. But that would be tomorrow's problem.Read more

  • Day 5

    Africa Preparations

    October 14, 2023 in the United Arab Emirates ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    My day started even later than others, and it was basically late afternoon before I even decided to head out. I started the day with a call to the folks to catch them up on all my travels as well as get a haircut that I was desperate for. Both of these went well, so I relaxed a bit more before going into town. All I had to do was go to an adventure store for a sleeping bag. The first one I went to I had no luck, so I had to go to another shopping centre, that was not easy to get through. I didn't want to buy an uber so I got off at the closest train station and began the 40minute work. The scale of my poverty was reinforced as I was forced to walk past cars worth, quite literally hundreds of thousands of dollars. Tesla Lamborghini, Ferrari, Aston Martin, Mercedes, Lotus, McLaren, all of the incredibly expensive car brands. I would WALK for 40 minutes past some of the nicest and fastest street cars in production. Quite a grim reminder of how poor I am. Eventually, though, I arrived to pay $100 aud for a very basic sleeping bag before quickly leaving again to head home. I hadn't done much today but energy levels were once again low and I didn't want to push myself before my tour. I walked back past the expensive cars, got on the train and went to bed. Simple day today. I didn't even take too many pictures of the cars because it was too depressing.Read more

  • Day 6

    Goodbye Dubai

    October 15, 2023 in the United Arab Emirates ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Today was a travel day and as such I got an early morning uber to the airport, checked in, waited for my flight, got on my flight, landed in Nairobi, got to my accommodation and slept. I had a very nice hotel for the first time in a while as it was organised by the tour, and I just wanted to sleep in bed as soon as possible. I had an early night as the morning would be quite early for our departure meeting and the beginning of my month long Africa safari.

    I didn't take many photos but enjoy the museum of the future as I headed to the airport.
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  • Day 7

    Nairobi

    October 16, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Although I arrived yesterday, I did very little in Nairobi as the first day of the tour would be allowing us time to experience the capital city of Kenya before we move on to the wilderness. The day kicked off with an early morning meeting with our guide Joe and two others before we went to pick up the rest of the crew and become familiar with the big yellow bus that would be home for the next month. There was a crew of 14, much less than can normally fit. Once everyone was on board, we got our first proper debrief of the tour and what to expect. Joe went through the different duties that we would be responsible for as well as any rules of the bus. The standard stuff. We then got straight into the tour by going to the Giraffe sanctuary. This was really cool and informative about the sanctuary, the giraffes, and conservation efforts. We spent some time here before heading to a bead museum where we were welcomed with an amazing song by the girls before being walked through the processes involved in making the beads. We then head outside of town slightly to our first camping site. We arrived early to ensure we had enough time to get used to our new roles and responsibilities while also ensuring we had enough time to be able to enjoy a beer at the end of the day. Tomorrow, though, our safari really started, and we would head to Maasai Mara.Read more

  • Day 8

    Rift Valley

    October 17, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We woke up after our first night camping, having had a pretty rough night. Though, this is somewhat expected the first night as we adjust to life in the wild. We packed up our stuff, once again having to learn how to take down the tents effectively and pack up the big truck. After this, we got on the road to head toward a viewpoint at Rift Valley. This was an incredible view over the area that the Maasai Mara occupy and spans through Tanzania and Kenya. It is incredible to see. After this, though, we headed toward our camp in which the Maasai would be accommodating us. They started by welcoming us with a ritualistic dance and song. Interestingly, the Maasai do not use instruments for songs and instead just use their voices. This is really cool given how rhythmic and fun they are, as well as how long their culture has existed. After this, we organised ourselves and our tents before going to meet the Maasai people in their settlement. This was really cool as along the walk, the Maasai people were teaching us about their routines and day to day life. They explained the processes that the young men have to go through to become a warrior and a man. This mostly involves going out and living in the bush for a few years before they have accumulated enough cattle from other tribes to provide for himself and his family upon their return. This may take many years, but the men undergoing warriorship can return briefly during this time. However, in order to re-enter the village, his mother will have to welcome him in, so if they do not feel they are worthy of entering, they can not. Another interesting fact is that the Maasai do not hunt wild animals, they have a belief system that considers wild animals close to God, and they will starve during large droughts before they will hunt and kill wild animals. It is likely a large reason that the Maasai is rife with wildlife. Instead, they simply rely on animal husbandry. To marry a woman, he requires 3 cows and a sheep, and he will earn her hand. He can marry as many women as he wants, provided he has the cattle to purchase them and sustain their livelihood. It is truly a unique and interesting culture, and their beliefs are very different from other indigenous cultures.

    As we continued toward the little village, the children undergoing their warriorship, and some of the older men showed off their spear throwing and archery skills. It was really interesting, with the very young children watching and learning. Eventually, after some ritualistic dancing in which we got to join in, the mothers and women welcomed us into their village. They showed us their houses and their way of living, and it was incredible. The baby cattle were in the centre to protect them from predators, and then the houses surround the perimeter of the circle settlement. It is tiny, maybe only enough for 10 small houses, in which whole families live. They introduced us to the children and showed us their market stalls where they made money to support their tribe. After that we headed back to the campsite for dinner. At the end of the night, we were given a speech by one of the elders in the tribe. She was a remarkable woman who has been attempting to modernise the tribes to improve education, sexual safety, hygiene, and general health. Although being ostracized by the tribe for "abandoning" her culture and their beliefs, she was trying to stop the mutilation of women. This is a process whereby, after the woman was married, she would be cut so as to ensure she didn't have sexualising relations with other men. She also tried to improve the education of the tribes by building schools for Maasai children, implement Western medicines when necessary (Covid), and improve hygiene to increase life expectancy. She is an incredible woman who is trying to protect cultural values while ensuring the tribe isn't wiped off the earth by ancient beliefs and practices. This speech went for a couple of hours, and I could have continued listening for a much longer time had I not been sitting on a very uncomfortable rock.
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  • Day 9

    Maasai School & Game Day 1

    October 18, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Today, we began the day with the same lady who spoke to us the night before. This time, she and some of the warriors took us around the campsite and explained how they live off the land. Showing how different plants and bushes are used as medicine and day to day items. She showed us insect repellent, ear piercing instruments, camouflage, how to make toothbrushes, chewing gum, and much, much more. It was really cool and eye-opening with the different strategies they use on a day to day life that we take for granted.

    She continued the tour by taking us to the Maasai school just outside the Maasai settlement. This was one of the cutest and most amazing experiences. The children were adorable and so happy to see us. We first met the kindergarten students, and the lady got them excited by saying we were new teachers and that you should choose the one you want. They immediately all jumped up and ran to us, hugging us and not letting go. It was unbelievably cute. We went from kindy to grade 5 with all the kids showing us their ability to speak Maasai, Swahili, and English. It was very impressive. After this, the grade 5s gave us a dance in which the whole school eventually joined in, and we got to play with the kids on the playground they recently bought. A wholesome and beautiful experience in general

    After heading to our next camp site near the Maasai National Park, we dropped off our stuff, put up our tents, and headed out for our first game drive of the tour. There were animals everywhere, and it took almost no time at all until we spotted a cheetah with three baby cubs. Literally sitting alongside the main road into the national park. This is not something we expected to see so quickly, but our luck continued and some as shortly after. The Eagle-eyed Nick somehow spotted a family of Lions in the bushes. We were the first to spot them, and so we could get as close as we wanted. And when I say we got close, I really mean that we were an arms reach away from a couple of lionesses and their cubs. It was unbelievable how tame and unphased they were by our presence just a few feet from their cubs. But to get that close so quickly is far from what I expected. It is a highlight of my whole trip so far. After some time admiring and observing the beautiful creatures, we figured we would have to move on and continue the search. As we left, somehow again, Nick spotted another lioness in a lones shrub in the middle of a field. Picture 12 may look like a boring old bush, but in their is, in fact, a killing machine. Masters of camouflage. As the game drive continued, we then managed to spot 2 more of the big 5 by ticking off elephants and Buffalo. But i was still very excited for tomorrow where we would do our best to complete the final pieces of the puzzle, the Leopard and the Rhino. The time of year was perfect to find baby animals with their mothers. Almost every time we saw an adult animal, there would be a baby present just learning the ropes of life. It was adorable and isn't something I expected nor planned for. As we left, the first Lions we had spotted had arisen from their hiding spot, and quite literally, 40 cars had surrounded them getting photos. They maintained a good distance, but it did take away from the experience. I'm glad we stumbled across them before the crowds were there to bother them and us.

    Photos from the proper cameras are at the end.
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  • Day 10

    12 Hour Game Day

    October 19, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Due to the size of the National Park at Maasai, we ended up completing a full day game drive included as part of our tour. We mostly set out to find the Leopard because we knew it would be the most difficult to find. The day was massive, the sun was hot, and the roads were rough. Nevertheless, the day was incredible, and some of the things we saw were proper wildlife experiences. It started with some standard animal finds before eventually we hit a road block. We had organised to pick up other members of the group across a river track, but as we arrived, there were 3 very hot, full, and sleepy Lions that decided to park up across the track. They had just consumed a zebra moments beforehand, and the carcass and its smell was there to confirm it. We were shocked that they could be in such a location. As a result, the rangers were OK with us getting really close because they were in the river bed, and so we didn't have to maintain a 25m distance. Generally, these are the rules, but if no one is around, then the rangers won't catch you getting closer. We then headed towards a reporting of a big male lion that was guarding a buffalo carcass just further upstream from where these Lions were. When we got there, the smell was overwhelming, but the sight of a lion standing over a rotting and half consumed buffalo was amazing. Jackels and vulture swarmed ariund the big male, but his presence alone stopped everything from getting to close. This guy was massive. We couldn't get as close as there were many people around, but he was big enough to ensure I didn't really want to. It was amazing to see this type of nature face to face. We then wandered off to find a few herds of elephants and giraffes, but we were not yet done with the big cats. Somehow, our guide spotted a lion near a tree down the valley, and when we approached, I got to experience the most unbelievable feeling. As one HUGE male lion lay in the long grass, another lioness lie within the shadow of the tree, but our guide managed to park our truck right in between. This meant that there were two massive Lions within 2m of both sides of us. An enourmas and easy meal for both if they decided they were hungry. An incredible feeling being so close to two enourmas beasts that were happy just looking at us and going back to sleep. Looking into their golden eyes also was something i did not expect to be so overwhelming and daunting, as you try and consider what goes on in their brain when they look directly at you. A view that would mean certain death for most animals was something we could sit and admire somehow. An unbelievable morning of big cats, mostly chilling but also slightly active with their eating.

    We then had a lunch of our own and began to make our way to the Maasai River. This was another highlight of the trip as we got to see Hippos and the most incomprehensibly large crocodiles I had ever seen or hoped to see. We had missed the crossing by about a month, but it meant that these crocs were incredibly well fed, and you could tell by looking at them. I literally got goosebumps as they came into view because of the shock and fear that came I to my body despite being way up the riverbed. It was stunning and scary. The Hippos were quite chilled, they spend most of their day in the water to avoid the heat, so we only got to see a couple in full sight. But even in the water, you could see the size of the beasts. After this, we explored throughout more of the day stumbling across the regular culprits, giraffe, elephants, impala, zebra, etc. However, toward the end of the day, we heard our guide talking over radio before legging it toward the exit. We began to theorise what it could be. Hope remained that it would be a Leopard, but we couldn't be sure. We approached what looked a lot like a leopard tree and excitement peaked, it lead to slight disappointment, however, as the tree was empty and instead, two cheetahs lay in its shadow, trying to cool off. It's difficult to call a disappointment, but everything was seeming as though it could be the illusive Leopard. We enjoyed his company some more before heading toward the exit. This is when we managed to spot the White Rhino. The Rhino was only spotted at the very end of the safari, as we were on our way out. The guide had to slam on his breaks incredibly hard to ensure we got a good view. On the way out, the guides book it along the dirt roads, but it is a lot of fun to get thrown around the truck. This meant that in a day and a half of game drives, we managed to spot 4 of the big 5 as well as Jackels, impala, giraffe, crocodiles, hippos, cheetahs, and much more cool stuff.
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  • Day 11

    Lake Naivasha

    October 20, 2023 in Kenya ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We had our final game drive in Maasai National Park, and it did not disappoint. We started early to get as much activity as we could while the animals are at their most lively. As the day progresses, the heat slows them down into an almost hibernation state. Right out the gate, a whole pride of lions had accumulated around what looked into a dead zebra, likely a fresh catch from the night before. This was the first time we saw the whole pride (or at least most of it) all together, and it meant that there were multiple males, many females, and so many cubs. The cubs were incredibly curious and walked all the way up to the row of cars that had formed along the road. Eventually, mum came and helped escort them across the road. We followed the cubs where he led us to a small family of cheetahs, likely the same from the first day. They were sitting utop a small mound, looking out over the landscape. We then bolted across the National Park, giving us hope that a Leopard was in our midst. We had specified to the driver that our last target was to see a leopard, and so he made it his main goal for the trip. After being thrown around the truck for about 5 minutes, we arrived at a fragmented piece of vegetation. The driver was trying to drive straight through the landscape to get us as close as possible. We then spotted an old Leopard meal that was hanging from the tree. We knew we were close. After 30 minutes of looking, we gave up and headed away, but after about an hour, there was another report of the Leopard back where we had just been. When we returned, the impala carcass that had been hung on the tree by the Leopard was gone, and we knew we missed our opportunity to see a Leopard. But we persisted and tried our best to keep look out. We were sure he was close. At one point, the driver drove us right into the middle of the trees. I was in the front seat and so could see best into the bushes. A moment that gave me chills was spotting the Leopard in the thick vegetation, looking directly at me and the truck. I then tried to tell others but must have made too much of a commotion as he then bolted through the bushes to somewhere safer. Luckily, everyone from my truck saw him, even if he was just a blur, as he ran away. I was lucky enough to have seen him in full detail up close. Even if still not for very long. The rest of the group from the other truck did not get so lucky and never got to spot him throughout the rest of the day. After all this, there wasn't much time left in the day to be fair, and so we headed for the exit. We then met with the truck to head to Lake Naivasha.

    We didn't have a long drive, and so we were able to also squeeze in a sunset hippo tour in Lake Naivasha. This was quite cheap and went for a couple of hours, and it was a nice way to end the day. It was relaxing. We just floated around the lake, spotting Hippos and watching Eagles hunt fish. We then parked up toward the middle of the lake and watched the sunset to round out a nice afternoon. After this, we went back to camp to discover a group of school kids would be occupying the camp site right next to ours. This was annoying as they had to come through our camp site for water, and we would be able to hear them late at night and early in the mornings. We only had 2 nights here, but it was going to be clear that sleep might be hard to come by.
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