Rwanda
Western Province

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    • Dag 42

      Swimming lunch and private night sauna

      8 mars 2023, Rwanda ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      We knew that we would be quite busy today again, but didn't want to only stay at our place and never leave for the entire day. For our lunch break we carved out some time and drove to one of the fanciest lodges around, where we entered with the note that we'd love to eat some lunch there.

      It was a glorious lodge built on the hillside, with a direct access to the beautiful waters of Lake Kivu. We ordered some food - some came with surprises, eg the vegetarian salad had canned tuna on it - and drinks, had them delivered to our spot by the water, and went for refreshing dips in the lake throughout our lunch break.

      We liked it so much that we extended our stay there, with me working a bit from my phone and Anne taking a call from the lakeside. With all the use, my phone, which we used for hotspotting an internet connection, combined with the intense rays of the sun, had a tendency to overheat. I was grateful numerous times that my phone was waterproof, because the easiest way to cool it down was by submerging it in the lake 😅😁

      The afternoon was spent back at our place with more work, but for dinner we had plans to leave to eat at a local restaurant. The receptionist at our resort gave us some tips, and we headed there. It was a completely local joint, with no printed menus, and very local food at very local prices. I wanted to try their grilled catch of the day - Tilapia fresh from the lake.

      They advised me that it would take 45-50min preparation time, which sounded good to me. While we were waiting for the food, Anne received a tip from one of her local friends - an opportunity for a private sauna with access to a private beach! The sauna was located in another local lodge, and I gave them a call to make a reservation for 10pm, approximately an hour after I expected to receive the food.

      Unfortunately it took the restaurant almost TWO HOURS to prepare my grilled fish. They prepared it with lots of love and completely from scratch (including the wood fired grill), but they were just sooo slow. This delay meant that there was no time for me to eat anything of the beautiful fish before we went to the sauna. I even had to forfeit my side dishes because they were just not ready at the same time, but I did not want to leave without the fish. They split the fish into two to-go containers (it was a big fish), and off we went to the lodge.

      We showed up late, but were welcomed by a friendly receptionist. He showed us to the sauna, where two staff members were busy heating up the sauna. It wasn't like any sauna I had ever used. This sauna was essentially a wood-fired oven inside a small room. The upside was that everything smelled very nicely of wood. The downside was definitely the smoke in our eyes and the essential inability of controlling the heat.

      When we entered the sauna the first time it had probably a temperature of close to 100 degrees (there was no temperature indication anywhere, I'm guessing). The first thing we did was to air it out a bit to make it more bearable. Between rounds we took the provided bathrobes and went down to the lake via our private beach access. It was a near full moon and it was an absolutely glorious night!

      Of course, some things also didn't work as expected. It was odd that two staff members were chilling right outside the sauna, smoking cigarettes, always watching us when we went to the lake after the sauna. We didn't have any languages in common so communication with them was not possible. They never delivered the towels we were promised, and the shower wasn't stocked with toiletries either contrary to what they sold us. When we tried to get a tiny discount for the shortcomings (as a sort of incentive for them to fix the shortcomings in the future), the manager was apologetic but completely non-understanding why we would want a refund, and anyways without the relevant authority and autonomy to handle a refund.

      Anyways, to have a private sauna and beach for 90 minutes for 15€ was a steal and we would do it again in a heartbeat. Happy and exhausted we went back home.

      The plan was to head to sleep promptly, but I got too intrigued by the still lukewarm tilapia I was carrying around with me. My curiosity got the better of me and it was amazing! This deliciousness was the reason for me wolfing down half a Tilapia at midnight. Something I wouldn't usually do 😅
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    • Dag 40

      Malaria?

      6 mars 2023, Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

      The previous day ended with me negotiating with the lodge operator over the price for our extension night. We were not really happy with what we got for the price we paid, and several advertised amenities were not delivered, such as towels or warm water. But we were in a pretty desolate area, so didn't have much choice. I ultimately got him to agree to a rate of 40 USD for the extension night, though he was really guilt-tripping me into feeling super bad afterwards for ever approaching him. Oh well, I've got a thick skin, so I didn't let his comments get too close to me.

      Anne had had an annoying headache for a few days now that never really went away, and after we left camp this morning nausea was added to the mix as well. Before we could really think about our next steps, our car got pulled over by a military patrol. They stopped us, told us to get a man they shoved into our car to the closest hospital some 20km away, and sent us off. We just barely managed to check if he is going in for something contagious or not (he wasn't), then we were off. I guess that's another role of the military patrols everywhere 😉 There is a different level of authority between a hitchhiker with a pained expression in his face versus someone in uniform with a big rifle.

      The guy didn't say much during the trip, and after we dropped him off we continued on our own way, Anne did some more research into her symptoms. It turned out that there was a large overlap with malaria, and the incubation period from our Namibia camping adventure (where she got bitten very often) until now aligned with malaria as well. So, change of plans. Instead of aiming to make it to a good spot and spend the day working from there, we rerouted to the next hospital to get her tested for malaria.

      I had made some experiences with rural hospitals previously in Guatemala, and I knew we were in for an interesting experience. Anne got all her documents ready and in we went to get her tested for malaria. While we were waiting for the reception to see us, a big list on the wall caught my eye. It was a pricing list for every single service the hospital offered. The most expensive thing was a knee replacement, priced at 60 USD. At least if I managed to decipher the French correctly. The most macabre thing I spotted was the cremation service, priced at 35 USD per cubic meter. One of the receptionists then took it upon herself to guide us through the entire hospital process, and the first thing we had to do was to pay 10 USD for the VIP service. We weren't really sure what that meant, but it appeared as if we skipped all the queues. It did make us feel a bit bad, but we weren't really given a choice. Pay this, present that document, come here.

      She was then seen by a doctor and had her blood taken - through poking her vein with a needle and then waiting for gravity to do it's thing! No syringe, no vacuum vessels, just letting it drip into a dish. First time I had ever seen it done like that. Then we were told it would take four hours for the results to come in, and our next challenge was how to spend the time until then. We were in a little village at the southern shore of Lake Kivu, and even though the hospital was pretty large (they even had two ambulances), we couldn't find a single restaurant to sit down at to get some work done. We also couldn't find any lodge nearby, but there was an unrated guesthouse not too far away.
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    • Dag 40

      Car mechanics on a construction site

      6 mars 2023, Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      After we drove around aimlessly looking for a nice spot to work from, we headed toward the unrated guest house. The access road to it was rather dodgy and very steep. When we arrived at the guest house it turned out to be a construction site. I left the car to see if I can find anyone to talk to, but no such luck. I had already begun turning the car around in the steep dead end road when someone who seemed to be in charge approached our car from the side.

      He was the owner of the guest house and invited us in. There was a construction site all around us, and there was no internet, but he could prepare a table with chairs and some drinks for us, which is all we needed. I backed into the driveway, parked the car, and we set up office inside, away from the blazing heat of the sun.

      Seeing how there was no internet we had to Hotspot from my phone, which was sufficient for Anne to have her first call of the day, and I managed to get some work done as well. However, after a bit more than an hour, the connection suddenly dropped dead. It appeared as if the closest cellular tower was malfunctioning in a way, because it worked fine in one moment and not at all in the next. All of the people at the construction site had been eyeing us curiously, and now we were just making it even more interesting for them.

      Two muzungus (white people) show up out of nowhere, whip out their laptops on a construction site, have a few calls, and pack up again an hour later 🤣

      Since we couldn't work anymore due to lack of signal, we packed everything back into the car. I got into the drivers seat, turn the ignition, and... Nothing! Our second car had died as well. At the very bottom of a very steep hill, at the end of a private driveway, and we had no signal to call anyone ourselves. After laughing and despairing at the same time for a second or two, we managed to communicate with our host (who only spoke French and Kinyarwanda) that our car had broken down and we needed some mechanics. We couldn't reach the rental agency either (due to lack of signal), so we were entirely depending on his help. He placed a call and said something about ten minutes.

      Surprisingly, after around ten minutes, a super run down car blasting very loud music pulled up to the driveway. The initial surprise at the timeliness quickly got surpassed by the surprise when three greased up mechanics jumped out of the car and immediately got to work. We had no languages in common but the problem seemed obvious to them and they jumped into action immediately. They first tried to jump start our car, but to no avail - our car wouldn't start, but some lights lit up, which hardened our suspicion that it was a battery issue - again.

      Ultimately, they had to remove our battery and swap it with theirs, which finally did the job. Our car was still a bit shaky on its legs and constantly lost the charge to stay turned on. They said we'd have to stay there at the bottom of the hill pressing the gas for the next twenty minutes until our battery has had a chance to recharge a solid amount. We paid them the equivalent of 15 USD for their quick help and off they went. After some ten minutes or so of mindlessly pressing the gas every five seconds we managed to put the car into gear and whip it up the steep hill, back toward the hospital.

      Once we had reached the hospital, we were too afraid to turn off or even idle the engine, so I remained in the car and continued to mindlessly press the gas pedal while Anne went inside to find out about her results which were more or less due. Long story short, the results were not ready, but they offered to call us with the results. An offer we would've appreciated to receive three hours earlier 🙄 Instead of waiting around any longer we decided to continue onwards to our destination for the next few days - Kibuye, at the Eastern shore of Lake Kivu.
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    • Dag 54

      Lake Kivu

      8 november 2019, Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      To Lake Kivu now, a huge lake which almost completely forms the western border of Rwanda.

      We take a boat ride out on the lake to visit some of the islands. The first we visit is called Monkey Island, so-called because of the solitary Blue-Balled Monkey living on the island. We have no idea how it got there.

      Next up on the island itinerary is named Napoleon Island, after the distinctive hat-shaped hill. They should have called it Bat Island, as it is home to a huge colony of fruit bats. As we walk up the hill, you pass thousands of bats, hanging upside-down in the trees right next to the paths. The views from the top are amazing, and our guide also points out the next island over, which is a prison island for kids who have problems with substance abuse. Exiling them to a prison island- a la Alcatraz- seems a little heavy handed to us.

      On our boat tour is a German girl. We get chatting, and we ask her why she decided to come to Rwanda. She explains that she wanted to come somewhere warm, where she could swim. So, nothing to do with the history, mountains, wildlife or anything like that. Unfortunately for her, all freshwater lakes in Rwanda (and much of East Africa) are said to be infested with Bilharzia, a terrifying parasite that crawls into your skin before colonising most of your body, including the spinal cord and nervous system.

      We decline our guide's offer for us to have a dip.
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    • Dag 7

      Shopping and driving, Kigali to Kamembe

      6 juli 2017, Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Before leaving Kigali, we went into the city centre to look for some fabric from a "hole in the wall" shop - it was no more than a metre wide, but was stacked floor to ceiling with fabric and plenty of purchases were made (pre cut 3.6m lengths were 5,000 Rwandan Francs = $8)

      We left Kigali just after 10am for the 250km drive to Kamembe, in the south west of the country near the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo. The main roads in Rwanda are very good, but travel isn't fast because of the number of pedestrians and bicycles on the road, the mountainous terrain and a speed limit of 60kph (40kph in the city). The police are very active with traffic patrols and speed cameras.

      Just outside of Gatagara we took a 1.5km detour into the village to visit a pottery outlet, local health centre and grab a cache... or it may have been the other way around ☺

      We visited the King's Palace Museum in Nyanza and did a guided tour of the traditional and modern palaces, before heading on to Butare for a very late lunch - by the time we left it was 5.40pm, so the remaining 3 hour drive to Kamembe was in the dark... which made the pedestrian dodging even more difficult!

      Stayed: Emeraude Kivu Resort
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    • Dag 8

      To Cyangugu

      30 maj 2018, Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      A day along the lake - sounds good - no big climbs? But this is Rwanda - the land of 1000 hills - of course there are climbs! Apart from the last they didn't go on for a long time - but they were steep and it was hard. The joy of the downhill was tempered by the realisation that what goes down must come up. Whether it was slight dehydration from the sauna or just the terrain I found the first half tough. The views of course were again amazing, sometimes making you feel guilty that you do not appreciate them more - this time next week I'll have the view of Dulux colour centre out of my window! But there is literally a view around every bend. Thr landscape too changes dramatically. Up high the coffee bushes grow - most of the cherrys are picked, whereas lower down vast areas of tea is planted - the workers busy picking. Of course there are many more beautiful views of Lake Kivu around every bend.
      We arrived into Cyangugu down a big long hill - we are climbing back up tomorrow - found the Peace guest house, with great rooms and another great location on the lake. Eric (our chef - we have a personal chef to try to prevent food poisoning) laid on the most amazing chips with a chorizo-type sausage.
      Dinner at 730, short power cut, bed at 9 ready for the big day tomorrow.

      Philippians 4:6-7

      6 Don’t worry about anything; instead, pray about everything. Tell God what you need, and thank him for all he has done.
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    • Dag 8

      Nyungwe Forest, Waterfall Hike

      7 juli 2017, Rwanda ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Cereal and fruit for breakfast this morning and a civilised 8.30am departure for the Waterfall Hike in Nyungwe Forest. The weather is a couple of degrees cooler in this area, but still pleasantly mid 20s and no rain.

      After a briefing at the rangers station we drove with our guide Christophe to the start of the trail. After tucking our pants into our socks to avoid getting ants up our legs, we set off through the tea plantations, but then the going got tougher once we entered the forest. The path was well marked, but had some steep sections, so the walking poles they provided came in handy. The valley was thick with lush rainforest undergrowth, but only a few birds spotted (and some toads).

      The walk to the waterfall took 90 minutes, so we were looking for a rest and snack. The return journey took a little longer.

      Lunch was at the Gisakura Family Hotel - buffet of beef in tomato sauce, cooked plantain, rice, spaghetti, potato chips and steamed pumpkin.

      After lunch we went in search of Black & White Colobus monkeys. The guide was in contact with some trackers who had located a group of about 30 near the edge of the forest, so we only had a few minutes walk. We spent almost an hour watching them jumping from tree to tree along defined "roads", playing, grooming and looking after the 3 youngsters in the group (about 3 weeks old, all white). Also spotted Dent's Monkey and a Blue Monkey, who was acting as lookout from the top of the tallest tree.

      Arrived back at the hotel after dark, had dinner in the hotel restaurant after an African "short wait", ie 90 mins! - whole tilapia for Oliver, chicken and maize for me.

      Bed just after 10pm in preparation for an early morning tomorrow.
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    • Dag 7

      To Kibuye

      29 maj 2018, Rwanda ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

      At the risk of sounding boring today the scenery was stunning. The country contains diverse landscapes and perhaps today was some of the most beautiful. Only 50 miles and 5000 feet climbing the day was easier- but the 2500 foot climb in the middle was tough, although the view from the top was amazing The normally excellent roads however on this stage were not present, numerous potholes meant careful riding but I still managed to get a pinch puncture after hitting one too hard.

      A fast descent into Kibuye gave even more stunning views as we approached lake Kivu. The guest house we are staying at must be one of the most beautiful locations anywhere, on a peninsula and looking out both ways to the lake. A swim in the Lake followed by chips and then a short trip to a Swedish sauna, with a real stove running on eucalyptus also on the lake. A perfect way to loosen up and look over to the hills of the Congo.

      Psalm 121
      1 I lift up my eyes to the mountains—
      where does my help come from?
      2 My help comes from the Lord,
      the Maker of heaven and earth.
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    • Dag 5

      Easy day to Lake Kivu - Gisenyi

      27 maj 2018, Rwanda ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Waking up to the sound of torrential rain was an ominous start, breakfast was later - an easy day - although that would have rapidly changed had the weather not. It did and by the time we set off it was damp, but clear.
      42 miles total - 21 miles up hill and 21 miles down (that was the quick bit), the bad news is that tomorrow we have to climb up the bit we came down today - not so quick I fear!
      A short day meant we arrived at Lake Kivu about 1230. It's a seaside (ok lakeside) town and being Sunday everyone was out enjoying themselves - with the few weddings thrown in. A quick walk to the DR Congolese border and a stroll along the beach to take in the sights. All very pleasant!

      Jeremiah 29:11

      11 For I know the plans I have for you,” declares the Lord, “plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future.
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    • Dag 99

      Nyungwe Forest National Park

      13 augusti 2017, Rwanda ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      Traveled through stunningly beautiful countryside ranging from tea estates, to rice paddies to rainforest. When we arrived at the park in the early afternoon, we joined a canopy walk that went into the forest and visited a very high and long canopy walk that had been built by the Canadians in 2010. Being afraid of heights, Christy was quite proud to have made it across – albeit very tentatively. Unfortunately we didn’t see any monkeys on the walk as it was packed full of teenage Rwandans who were so excited and busy taking selfies that it would have scared away any critters. Still, nice to see young locals enjoying their amazing parks. Fortunately we camped in the park and were able to see a few different kinds of monkeys in the morning – the forest monkey and blue monkey. Unfortunately we didn’t get any good photos – just a few from the iphone.Läs mer

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