Rio Guadiana VII⚓: Foz de Odeleite Dois✌

Our last night on the Guadiana River we wanted to spend in a spot as calm as possible. The only downside to these spots is there is no way to get on land. There are some tiny unstable pontoons hereLeia mais
Our last night on the Guadiana River we wanted to spend in a spot as calm as possible. The only downside to these spots is there is no way to get on land. There are some tiny unstable pontoons here and there, but they are private. So we ended up back in Foz de Odeleite.
We chose to walk along a final piece of the Camino Grande. Unfortunately this path was the least pretty so far. Lots of barren land for sale. As we had arrived a bit later at our anchorage, we could see that we would have sunlight for about another hour to an hour and a half. Instead of walking the same way back we had come I had found another path which would take us on a bit of loop before getting back to the original path. I calculated it would be about 1.5 km extra. Bart didn't feel like having to walk back in the dark but we made a bet. If we would take the long way back and return to the boat before sunset, I would be allowed to plan our routes in the future. If we didn't, I would lose my rights indefinitely. The game was on.
The loop took us to a pretty forest, a bee farm, a fruit orchard and eventually a little lake. It turned out to be the best part of the trail so far that day. Bart would linger a bit and would tell him to hurry up a bit and keep our pace. I had a deadline to meet 😉. As we walked and walked the sun started to set and set and set. The town appeared again and eventually we made it back to Foz de Odeleite. The 🌞,
hadn't set yet! We actually arrived just in time for the golden hour to take some gorgeous pictures. Most importantly, I didn't lose my detour rights!! 🥳Leia mais
After we, but mostly I, had calmed down from our buoy incident we set sail back down the river again. We wanted to return to Sanlucár and Alcoutim to say goodbye to the people we have met there and wish them a Merry Xmas. The buoys stayed where we wanted them to stay and without any troubles we arrived in Sanlucár.
We discovered that was still one track we hadn't taken yet so we took the dinghy to take us to land. Apparently this path was built by the Romans and we could still see some of the remains. Furthermore we were treated by a little stream, a well and orange tree heaven. One big playground for the two little kids in us. This might actually have been the nicest hike along the river. Before going back to Nimrod we stopped by Renata again for some last tapas before taking the dinghy back.
On our way home we were stopped twice on the water. Once by Michael and his German friends and once by Rudy who invited as on board for a final borrel before we finally arrived on our Nimrod again.Leia mais
On our way to Pomarão I had one of those days where I had zero energy. I don't know if the place of Alcoutim and Sanlucár had done something to me, whether it was a certain time in my cycle or if it was just one of those days. Anyhow, I wasn't feeling good. The trip to Pomarão was in principle another uneventful one of just a couple of miles up river while dodging sticks and trees along the way. On top of that came a rock in the middle of the river right before Pomarão. Very happy we had manaouvered around it Bart went down below and cruised casually between the buoys. Or at least, so I thought. Thinking everything was going smooth and not being as focused as usual I didn't take the strong current in the last bend into account. We only had a few rpm's going on the engine, so barely any pressure on the rudder and suddenly that red buoy wasn't at a nice distance on my left anymore, but very very close.
Crrrrrrrsh, that is a bit like the sound we heard while the portside of Nimrod scratched along the red buoy. Bart hurried back above and found me halfway to a mental breakdown, as damaging the boat always hurts my intention to do everything really well and fear to break things, and as he tried to calm me down another while steer we heard another crrsssh. Not as bad this time, but not one of our finer moments. Luckily we weren't going very fast or the damage would have been a lot worse. Final score a big red scratch along the aluminium strip and a bend stainless steel pipe on which the solar panel is installed. At least, that's what Bart told me. In reality one of the scepters had pushed into the deck. But to save me from feeling even worse, Bart didn't tell me until the next day. Some additions on our boat jobs to do list for next week.
We spent one night at anchor, but in a spot where the current goes in funny directions so we had a very uncomfortable night. The next two nights we spent on the pontoon. We had a wonderful lunch at THE local bar where we had only two choices: Bacalao a Bras and some sort of pork, potatoes and clams dish. So that's what we had. It was delicious.
About 20km further inlands used to be a mine: Minas de São Domingos. The first railway of Portugal was built here to connect the mine to Pomarão, as the town was used as a loading dock. There still remain some tunnels through which the trains used to ride. We found them on one of our walks here. The highlight of our bikes, at least in my opinion, was our introduction to Rafael and Manolo. Two donkeys we found along the way. We fed them some greens and then we were invited by their caretakers, an Irish couple, to come meet and cuddle with them😍. We learned too many greens actually aren't good for donkeys as it hurts their stomach, good to know for future donkey meetings.
On our final night in Pomarão I woke up in the middle of the night hearing a sort of scraping sound. Normally Bart is the one who wakes up hearing things and wanting to do something while I am fast asleep. This time it was the other way around. I went outside thinking I would just have to remove some branches that were coming down the river due to the rising tide. I was not prepared to find an entire tree trunk 🌳stuck under our boat!! Luckily Bart had woken up in the mean time and together we were able to remove it. So far our calm night at the pontoon...
After a couple of days in Pomarão, the furthest we went upriver, we started our trip back down river again to get to Ayamonte in time for Christmas.Leia mais
We actually had a deadline to get to Alcoutim and San Lucar do Guadiana: Friday 13th of December. Why you might wonder? Because we had been informed that on the 13th we would be treated by Christmas Carols in the small church of Alcoutim, on the Portuguese side of the river. On top of that there would be churros, hot chocolate and Flamenco in San Lucar, on the Spanish side on the 14th of December. Suddenly we had plans.
When we arrived in Alcoutim we tried to find some sort of confirmation that the Christmas Carols were actually happening. We walked around all over town and ended up at some sort of beach bar, nowhere near the beach. Here we were told by the owner he had been planning to host an event, but that there hadn't been enough response to let it go through. A bit disappointed we walked back to the boat. As we passed the local supermercado we saw a poster hanging in the window: Christmas Carols in the Church 8pm 13th December. We were on!
We quickly had some dinner before returning to town. As it turns out both Alcoutim and San Lucar are crowded with internationals. Many of whom once came by boat and have decided to stay forever. They have blended quite nicely into both communities and as a result a couple of choirs consisting of both locals and internationals have been formed. We were treated by songs from musical groups from both the Spanish and the Portugese side. The Spanish had clearly rehearsed a bit more 😉. However our all time favorite was ex sailor violin Paul and the opera singer, it was absolutely angelic😇
In the church we met young sailor friends Alessa and Michael. They took us along to the library where the after drinks and snacks were served and informed us about all the internationals and things to do in the area. We met up with them and with some other boats a couple of times for a drink while we were there.
On the 14th we went to Spain for the Christmas Carols and Flamenco. It was mostly the same songs as the day before, but this time it was outside with some bonfires burning, hot chocolate, fresh churros and orange wine. The final treat was the flamenco performance by a group of around 30 individuals of all ages. The little girls, 5-8 year olds, gave the best show of them all.
This is where we met Renata. Renata is one of the people who once came by boat, fell in love with the place, which apparently has "something special", and now has bought a house in San Lucar and works in the local restaurant. We were able to help her out a bit with some things and we enjoyed her tapas and paella, a surprise treat by Square One, in La Fuente restaurant.
Most of the days we spent our time going different walks. To the castle, along the river this way, along the river that way and once inlands we went into the thicklebit. I believe that is supposed to be into the thick of it😉
We had a lovely time here in between Spain and Portugal, but all those people who are staying here for months at a time or even forever also gave us the creeps a bit. We talked about what might be causing this. We think it is because for us it feels like we have only just started our journey while this place seems to be a spot where people end the lifestyle we are currently living. We are by far ready for that and do not even want to think about it yet! So after a day or 5 we decided to move along. Further up the river .Leia mais
From Foz de Odeleite it was only a handful of miles to our next anchorage at Guerreiros do Rio. From here we took the richly European funded road to Laranjeiras. Along the way we spotted a bunch of orange and lemon trees! I absolutely could not resist leaving all of them hanging there while I could hear them call my name.
Not coincidentally, this little town Laranjeiras, with about 11 inhabitants lays in the valley of the orange tree hills. Laranjeiras actually translates to This little fun fact we learned at the archeological findings in the small town. It includes the remains of a couple houses and a chapel from Roman and Moorish times.
On our way back we ended up on the camino pequeña or grande again by accident. Over the hill, meadows and past the sheep we were afraid we had lost our track for a second, but luckily we were able to find our Nimrod again.
From here on the evenings and nights started to become a lot colder than we were used to. As soon as the sun set it would become chilly. As a result, we would have very early nights for the rest of our time on the river. We watch some of our anchor show Sons of Anarchy, play some board games or listen to an audio book. Most nights we were in bed by 21:30😴 Lovely.Leia mais
Since we have about two weeks before we have reserved a spot in the harbor of Ayamonte we wanted to take small trips going up the river. Our second stop was only about 7 miles away from our first anchorage.
We had one main activity during our time on the Guadiana: walk, walk, walk and walk some more. The surroundings are absolutely beautiful. On both sides of the river, both Spain and Portugal, we are surrounded by green olive and orange trees growing on the hills. Our background sounds are the bells from the sheep herds🐑🐏, turkeys "gobble gobble gobble"🦃 and every morning we wake up to roosters🐓.
Foz de Odeleite is a tiny tiny town with probably only about 10 inhabitants. Here we discovered the Guadiana Pequeña (small) and Guadiana Grande (large) nature trails for us to follow through the villages and over the hills here all along the river. Along the way we have been able to pick oranges, tangerines, lemons and pomegranates 😍. Every now and then it feels like we have found our way to the Shire 💍🧙🏽.Leia mais
After a delay of a couple of days our adventure on the Guadiana River, the border river between Spain (Andalucia) and Portugal (Algarve), was finally about to start.
After saying goodbye to Beautje and hello plus goodbye to Simon Hendrick, we went under the bridge connecting Portugal and Spain just after low water. The bridge height is supposed to be at least 18m at high water, while our total height is 18.5m. We have heard stories that boats higher than us easily have fitted underneath. Still, why risk it! We lifted our anchor and smoothly went underneath the bridge with somewhere between 2 and 4 meters to spare .
After a few miles we dropped the anchor again. We were anchored in our first spot of many more to come on the Guadiana River. It was just us and one other sailboat in this first spot.
It had been quite a cold night which caused us to wake up surrounded by fog. It made for a gorgeous view. Once it started to warm up a bit, we continued our trip further up the Guadiana River.
The Guadiana is an international river. It rises in Ruidera, between Albacete and Ciudad Real, and gently descends through the southern half of the Iberian Peninsula. It flows into Portugal, forming a natural border between the two countries, before emptying into the Atlantic Ocean.Leia mais
We planned to set sail to Ayamonte at 07:30 in the morning. Naturally, we left around 08:00/08:15. With outgoing tide we motored back to the entrance where we weren't met by fishermen this time, just some eddies (waves against current). It was a bit of a bumpy ride, we made it out just fine. We had a beautiful sail ahead of us. Forecasted 8-15 knots broad wind, which turned out to be half wind going up to 20 knots. As we started off with barely any wind we did some motor sailing at first. The wind picked up and we were able to turn off the engine. It was the beginning of December and we were sailing in just a sweater, some jeans while the sun was shining and there were barely any clouds in the sky. It still amazes us.
In the distance we saw some bigger clouds forming and the wind started to pick up more and more. We put in a reef in the main to stabilize the boat. Not much later we put in a reef in the genua as well. We weren't just cruising ⛵🏎️, we were flying ⛵🛩️. Since our destination was Ayamonte along the river that separates Portugal from Spain, we couldn't just arrive whenever we wanted. We had to make sure we wouldn't arrive too close to low water in order to be able to safely enter the river. Going at the speed we were going, we would arrive way too early. For the first time ever, we put in one more and a bit later another reef in the genua to slow down our Nimrod because we were going too fast😂 Well that was a first.
The first couple of days we spend in Ayamonte 🇪🇦. Staying in the marina gave us the chance to do some laundry, fully reload our batteries and take a couple of hot showers. Plus we could go up in the mast to meausre our height to make sure we would fit underneath the bridge. After we were treated by Surf Song and Beautje with tapas and drinks ♥️, we crossed the border, the river together to Villa Real Santo Antonio 🇵🇹. A low of wind was coming our way and since the strong current from the river against wind can make things very uncomfortable, we decided to stay in the marina a bit longer. This is where we really started to get into the Christmas vibe. In the centre of the town Santa Clause had set up shop in a true Christmas village. Bart was very strict and told me I should let the kids get their pictured with Santa instead of me 😪. Two of the activities was a 10k run and 5k walk. Since we are not in shape we didn't sign up for either. We did however follow the 5k walk, just behind the bombeiros🔥, for a bit to find out if we would discover some new parts of town. We were even cheered on by several spectators and a girl from the Conservatorium played some tunes. We were inspired by the walk and one of the following days we walked through a forest to the beach. The forest made us feel like we were back in the Netherlands again for a bit. Except for the sunny skies and warm weather in December 🌞😉. We had some lovely dinners with and at Surf Song and Beautje before we hosted a final dinner as the following day we would all continue on our own journeys. Surf Song would go to their winter spot Huelva, Beautje would start their trip to Sevilla and we would, finally, go under the bridge and up the river.Leia mais
If you look carefully at the map, you might see that we have anchored in two places while we were in Culatra and Olhão. That's quite the story. During one of our first nights at the anchorage a pretty strong wind (25+ knots) was blowing. At night we always turn on an anchor alarm on our phone to monitor whether we are snuck aka the anchor is holding. The alarm didn't go off that night and we had a pretty good night. We were both awake around 4 am and we took a look outside to check the anchor. Everything was looking good. Around 7:30 I climbed out of bed because something just wasn't feeling right. I went outside and saw Beautje who had been right next to us somewhere in the distance. The blue boat that had been behind us the whole time, was suddenly in front of us. We had miracously dragged more than 100 meters around the other anchored boats. On top of that, the anchor had taken grip again, in water that was just deep enough for us. I got Bart out of bed and very calmly we moved back to our old spot. We think that we wouldn't have been this calm if we had woken up while we were dragging. Anchored again we put out a lot more anchor chain and set three different anchor alarms on both of our phones for the night. Yet, when the wind picked up the following night I was awake for a good two hours checking our anchor alarm every half hour. The anchor was holding this time. Looks like we have been very unlucky and lucky at the same time.
With just the two of us we have plenty of fun. We went to the Saturday market again, mostly my fun, played with the tide on land, fun for both of us, and we started fishing with a trap, mostly Bart's fun. The fishing trap is one of Bart's accomplishments. After chatting with the local baker/fisherman some more, he hustled a fishing trap for us. This would give Bart another opportunity to get even with Octo 🐙. First, he had to fill the trap with some bait. Bart has gotten really good at catching small seabream from the boat. Within half an hour the trap was filled with 3 small fish. Now we, but mostly Bart, had to wait. The next morning we checked the trap, nothing except for some shells. We had been told that the more rotten the fish, the better. So we had to wait another day. On the second morning, before breakfast, we had caught an octopus! Bart 1 - 1 Octopus.
Sadly, killing the octopus is pretty hard. You have to get him right between/below the eyes. You see the octopus get white as it dies. Afterwards you have to clean it and beat the tentacles for a loooong time to tenderize the meat. After that Bart handed Octo over to me. Following a Jamie Oliver recipe I boiled the Octopus in its own juice with some tomato, anchovies and some other good stuff. Once the meat is tender you fry it in the pan. We ate the octopus with some pasta (twice since it was more than enough for two days). It was really good, although we could do a bit of a better job at tenderizing the meat. Better luck next time.
We didn't expect the next time to be two days later. We put out the trap again thinking we would maybe catch some small fish, nothing big. Boy were we wrong. We thought we had caught a big one the first time, this guy was about three times that size. Killing it went much quicker this time, luckily, and Bart spend a good half hour tenderizing, aka beating, the tentacles. This time I tried a Greek recipe. Knowing we would get some help finishing the octopus the next day from Beautje and Surf Song in Ayamonte, I only boiled "some" of the octopus. It tasted a lot better this time. The next day when our guests joined for dinner, some of them had never eaten octopus before. To make it more appetizing I made some calamari from the ends of the tentacles and the head. For the rest I used the Greek grilling recipe. As expected the calamari was a better hit.
It is always pretty cool to share your catch of the day with friends. However, we do feel we were a bit too enthusiastic and eager with the second octopus. In hindsight it was too big (I couldn't sleep for an hour that night because I kept seeing all those tentacles overcrowding the pan). Plus, even though octopus is very tasty, once in a while is more than enough. We shouldn't get too greedy.Leia mais
Our presence in the anchorage inbetween Ilha de Culatra and Olhão had been requested for a while by Beautje. Now that we had upgraded our electrical system on board, we also could no longer contain our excitement to continue our journey East. We said goodbye to Jo and Flip, some of our Dorpsstraat crew, after a little birthday celebration for Flip at the local Spar and left Marina de Albufeira after a long 10 days.
The trip started off a bit slow as the wind gods didn't seem to feel like putting a lot of work in yet. However, since we knew that after a siësta they would come back to work later in the day we accepted to move towards Ilha de Culatra slow but steady. We had a good sail all the way up to the river entrance. We did have a tiny orca scare the few minutes we had to go through deeper water, but we both think we saw a big dolphin.
We had been warned that it can get quite uckly at the river entrance. So we took down our sails and continued on the engine. The entrance did look a bit dearing indeed. The current and the wind were creating quite a lot of eddies and a bunch of small fishing boats had positioned themselves right in the middle of it all, which left us to zigzag not just around the current but also the local fishermen. With a little extra rpm's we however smoothly sailed into the Ria Formosa.
We were greeted by Beautje as we were nearing the anchorage. We had caught some mackerel on our way again so we invited them over for dinner, fish tacos this time. The next morning Bart decided to throw out his fishing rod for fun and somehow, still in his pajamas, caught a sea bream! Hilda was trying to get the same result over at Beautje. At some point did they got hold of something, a seagull... We quickly tried to get our dinghy into the water to help them out, but by the time we finally go to them the bird had spread its wings again. We decided to stay on board for a bit to see if together we would catch some more fish and then afterwards we would go get some groceries. We didn't end up getting groceries nor any fish, but stayed the full day at Beautje and had a great time. At some point Lajla and I took the dinghy to the sandbars where we saw a lot of local fisherman digging for something. Turns out they were looking for clams in the sand. We thought we can do that too. It took us a full hour, some very dirty hands but in the end we had about 12 clams that still looked alive and weren't secretly filled with sand. In other words, a lot of work, not a lot of reward you might think. But the dinner of our self caught sea bream and clams was very tasty!
If only we had done those groceries... The next morning Lajla and I decided to go get the groceries and let Bart and Hilda try out their fishing luck again. Since the main grocery stores are in Olhão which can be about a 10 to 20 minutes dinghy ride, depending on the tide, this is quite the adventure. Compared to the day before there were a lot of waves between us and Olhão. To come prepared to battle, we both put on our sailing gear. That turned out to be a great decision. Pretty wet, but only our sailing gear, we arrived in Olhão. We walked straight into my heaven: a fruit, veggies, dried beans, olives and churros Valhalla, the weekly market. There is a daily fish and veggie market in the market halls, but these stalls outside are absolutely amazing. The most adorable grandma's and grandpa's sell, or so it seems at least, their home grown produce. Some only have a couple of tangerines and onions. Others have all kinds of fruits of veggies. Lajla and I both loved it and took all of the time in the world to walk around and spot the stalls we wanted to buy from, mostly based on the people behind the stalls and a little bit based on what they sell. We bought a lot of fruits we have never or barely eaten before, delicious.
After the market we sat down at the local pastelaria to enjoy some breakfast before we went to the grocery store. Fully packed and most importantly, hours later than anticipated, we returned to the dinghy. By now it is getting too close to low tide to take the short route back home. With a fully loaded dinghy we started our journey. Within minutes the first wave splashes in our faces, into the dinghy and all over the groceries. This is going to be an interesting ride home. We try to take another shortcut until we see some local fishermen who have lifted up their outboards, that doesn't look good. We decide to turn around and take the long way back, which also means that instead of going with the current and the waves we now will have to go against both. Wave after wave splashes in our faces, into the dinghy and over all of our groceries. I am very impressed how Lajla is still able to steer with a wave coming right at her about every 5 seconds.
Meanwhile Bart and Hilda see a little dinghy struggling in the distance against the waves and current. They feel sorry for them and are happy that's not Isabel and Lajla. Right? Because Bart doesn't recognize my hair, right? Completely soaked, and completely unrecognizable as I have tried to make myself dissappear into my sailing gear, water up until our ankles in the dinghy, Lajla and I arrive back at Beautje. The pastel de nata, Bart's tosti and most of the groceries have survived our splash zone adventure surprisingly well. The paper towels, hot dog bread and tortillas weren't so lucky. After a shower on the aft deck and Hilda's spare clothes I started to warm up again. That was quite the trip.
The next day Harmen and Kiki (Square One) complete our Dorpsstraat by dropping their anchor behind us. With the three of us and in some cases the Surf Song, we enjoy a couple of fun borrels, cups of tea, dinners and games together. We also attempt to go surfing again, but since we didn't check the tides or the swell beforehand, we don't have any waves, oh well. Together we make a Happy Bday card on the beach for Herman (Kolibri) instead. On one our last days together as Dorpsstraat, before Beautje and Square One continue on, Bart gets all the boys and Hilda together to go fishing.
From the local baker and fishermen Bart has learned that to catch dorade they need to go to the wreck a couple minutes per dinghy away around low tide. So far our fish luck, and Hilda's, hasn't been great and it seems to be going to end the same way this tim. Because the sun starts to set, which means that it will get colder soon. Twilight however also means that you can start fishing for squid and octopus, so Bart decides to put on the cephalopod bait. After a while Bart has got hold of something. It's an octopus!! It's got its tentacles around the line. Together with Edwin, Bart tries to get Octo into a bucket. Meanwhile he is getting sprayed with, surprisingly no ink, but a lot of water. They almost manage to get the octopus into the bucket, but at that moment it gets loose. Leaving only a single sucker behind. The next day is our last evening together so instead of going out on the dinghy again, we have a final delicious dinner by Kiki together. Bart cannot get Octo out of his head, but the score remains Octopus 1 - 0 Bart.Leia mais
Viajante
very nice
Viajante
💋
Viajante
💋
ViajanteHaha, nice competition😂🥰