Among Shrines & Snow

"First Embraces and Autumn's Dance: Lake Toya Beckons"

The courtesy bus delivered us back to Narita airport in the crisp morning air, our hearts already racing with the knowledge that each passing moment brought us closer to Torrin. As our plane climbed toward Sapporo, Mount Fuji emerged through a dance of clouds like a welcome sentinel, its iconic peak a reminder that we were truly in Japan now.

The reunion at Sapporo airport was perfectly choreographed by fate - as we stepped into the arrival hall, Torrin pulled up in his compact K car, that familiar smile we'd missed for nearly a year lighting up his face. The embrace held the weight of twelve months of stored hugs, of missed conversations, of life's moments shared through screens instead of in person.

Our journey to Lake Toya became a masterclass in autumn's artistry. Coming from the evergreen landscape of Queensland, we were utterly unprepared for the symphony of colours that painted the Hokkaido countryside. Every turn revealed new shades - maples burning bright red, birches shimmering in golden yellow, and a palette of oranges that seemed to set the hillsides ablaze.

Lake Shikotsu provided our first pause, its mirror-like surface reflecting the riot of autumn colours that crowned its surrounding mountains. But it was just a prelude to Lake Toya's grandeur. As we followed its shoreline, each curve brought new gasps of wonder, the autumn foliage creating a natural gallery that seemed curated just for us.

The Shinto shrine we discovered, perched elegantly at the lake's edge, offered more than just photo opportunities - it provided a sacred space for our family reconnection. As the sun began its descent, painting the sky in hues that rivaled the autumn leaves, we captured not just images but moments of joy, laughter, and the simple pleasure of being together again.

Our day culminated in a tiny local restaurant, where Torrin, now confidently versed in Japanese cuisine, guided us through our first authentic Japanese meal. Each dish he recommended came with a story, a explanation, a piece of his new life here that he was eager to share. We savoured not just the flavors, but the precious gift of being together, creating new memories in this beautiful corner of Japan.

"Racing Time on Mount Usu: A Volcanic Adventure"

Our second day at Lake Toya unfolded under Torrin's thoughtful guidance, his local research shaping our adventure. The Toyako Visitor Center became our morning classroom, where we immersed ourselves in the dramatic geological story of this volcanic landscape. Each display and explanation added layers to our understanding of the living, breathing earth beneath our feet.

The morning light painted Lake Toya in new colours as we ascended to a viewpoint above the town. From this elevated perch, the vast expanse of the lake stretched before us like a mirror, reflecting the autumn sky and surrounding mountains in perfect symmetry.

Nostalgia guided our next stop as Torrin led us to his beloved konbini store - a place that had sustained him during his epic seven-month journey across Japan. We loaded up on an eclectic array of Japanese treats and snacks, each selection accompanied by Torrin's enthusiastic commentary about his discoveries during his solo travels. Sobatsu Park provided the perfect picnic spot, where we spread our convenience store feast against the backdrop of the lake's shimmering surface.

The real adventure for the day began at the Mount Usu ropeway. As our gondola climbed skyward, the landscape below transformed, revealing the raw power of nature. The crater born from the dramatic eruptions in 1977, told a story of geological might that left us in awe. We ventured along the rim trail, descending countless stairs, each step taking us deeper into this volcanic wonderland. The views were intoxicating - the vast Ocean on one side, the jagged crater beneath us, and mountains stretching endlessly toward the horizon.

Time slipped away as we explored, until the sudden realisation that the last gondola would leave at 4:30 jolted us into action. What followed was a scene worthy of a comedy film - the three of us racing up over 500 stairs, alternating between gasping for breath and bursting into laughter. Our faces streamed with equal parts exertion and hilarity as we pushed ourselves up each step, the threat of a night spent on the mountain adding a delicious urgency to our climb. With just minutes to spare we arrived back at where we had begun.

Back at the Airbnb as evening settled around us, exhaustion melted into contentment. We gathered together, muscles pleasantly aching, recounting our near-mishap with fresh bursts of laughter. The day had given us more than just stunning views and geological wonders - it had gifted us one of those perfect travel memories, where near-disaster transforms into family legend, the kind of story we knew we'd be retelling for years to come.

"Glimpses of Torrin's World: A Day in Kutchan"

The road to Kutchan felt strangely familiar, though we'd only ever seen it through the pixelated lens of video calls nearly a year ago. This small town, nestled in the heart of Hokkaido, had been the backdrop to countless digital conversations, and now we were finally experiencing it in vibrant reality rather than through a screen.

Stepping into Torrin's apartment was like walking into a chapter of his life we'd only glimpsed from afar. Every corner of his small flat told a story of independence earned and a life crafted with purpose in a foreign land. The pride swelled in our hearts as we watched him navigate his space with the easy confidence of someone who had truly made a home for themselves. His achievement - carving out this life in Japan - felt even more remarkable as we witnessed it firsthand.

The local Japanese bakery he'd chosen for lunch offered more than just meals; it provided another window into his daily life. As Torrin confidently ordered in Japanese and guided us through his favourite selections, we could see how thoroughly he'd embedded himself in the local culture. Each bite of Japanese cuisine came with a story, a memory, a piece of his journey.

Visiting the Kumo restaurant where Torrin worked felt surreal - another familiar name from our video calls materialising into reality before our eyes. The place we'd heard so much about over the past year suddenly had dimension, smell, texture. We could finally picture him here, building his future in this corner of Japan.

The Value Mart visit offered a glimpse into everyday life in Japan, so different from our Australian shopping experiences. We wandered the aisles, fascinated by the array of products, stocking up on supplies that went beyond the convenient but limited offerings of the konbini stores.

As evening settled around us, the cards came out - Anth sharing the game he'd learned during his last trial. The simple pleasure of sitting together, playing cards, filled our cozy space with laughter and light. The game became a bridge, connecting our nomadic life in Australia with Torrin's life in Japan, weaving our separate stories into one shared moment of joy and connection.

This day had been more than just touring Kutchan - it had been about seeing the life our son had built, witnessing his growth and independence, and feeling the pride that comes from watching your child find their place in the world, even if that place is on the other side of the ocean.

"Hell Valley and Sacred Stamps: A Day of Contrasts"

Our final day as a trio carried a bittersweet weight, knowing tomorrow would bring Sophie, Shea and Teaque into our adventure. Though excited for their arrival, we treasured these last precious hours of just us three, following Torrin's carefully crafted itinerary through another face of Japan.

The morning led us to an unexpected detour - a Ninja Village theme park. While theme parks weren't typically our style, seeing Torrin's enthusiasm made it impossible not to be swept along in his excitement. We found ourselves immersed in the Edo period, where ancient Japan came alive through exhibits and demonstrations. Through Torrin's eyes, even this tourist attraction became a window into the culture he'd grown to embrace.

A short drive later and the local shrine provided a more authentic glimpse into Japanese spirituality. We watched with quiet pride as Torrin performed his shrine ritual with practiced reverence, another stamp and intricate calligraphy added to his growing collection - physical markers of his journey across Japan. The oni guardians across the road stood fierce watch over their domain, their fearsome visages a stark contrast to the peaceful shrine.

Then came Noboribetsu Jigokudanai - Hell Valley - a name that proved startlingly apt. The landscape before us seemed torn from another world: sulfurous steam rising in thick plumes, carrying the distinctive aroma of rotten eggs across the barren terrain. The earth itself seemed alive, with bubbling pools of water emerging from mysterious depths. Walking the elevated pathways, we marvelled at how different this was from our sun-baked Australian homeland. Here was a landscape shaped by the earth's inner fury rather than its surface heat.

Our day's finale brought us to Lake Kuttara, its perfect circular form a testament to the same volcanic forces that created Hell Valley, though expressing their power in a vastly different way. As the sun began its descent, we stood in contemplative silence, watching golden light play across the mountain-ringed waters. The peaceful scene was a striking counterpoint to the day's earlier otherworldly experiences.

The drive back to our Airbnb was filled with animated conversation about the day's contrasts - from ancient ninja culture to modern shrine practices, from hellish landscapes to serene lakes. But what made every moment special was watching Torrin share his adopted country with us, seeing Japan through the eyes of someone who had fallen deeply in love with its countless facets. His passion for this land had become contagious, helping us understand why he'd chosen to make it his second home.Read more