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2023 Passport Chronicles

August - December 2023
Embarking on an epic five-month adventure across multiple Spanish speaking lands to reset my cultural chakras! I’ll be collecting stamps, walking countless miles and creating lasting memories solo and with beloved travel companions. Read more
  • 69footprints
  • 8countries
  • 151days
  • 653photos
  • 19videos
  • 72.5kkilometers
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  • 959kilometers
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  • Traveler2023 Passport Chronicles
    Day 31

    Camino Day 21: Sahagún to Burgo Ranero

    September 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Total Distance: 18km
    Step Count: 30.1k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 19
    Injuries: shin splints

    Today, I walked with Tommaso as Lukas started super early to try and make his way to Leon where we’d meet again in 2 days.

    It was a very chill walk talking about love, faith and life. I love having conversations with people who think deeply and can appreciate and accept different perspectives on different topics. It was a lovely bonding time on the trail. I also got a tarot reading at our breakfast stop which was very interesting and entertaining 🃏

    Our destination was El Burgo Ranero where according to Jorge, we might experience the most beautiful sunset on the whole camino! The town was quite cute with not much happening but the Albergue we stayed at was so serene in ways we couldn’t describe! I journaled for hours and had lovely chats with the volunteers.

    In the evening, we went to find the bench we were meant to watch the sunset from but the weather wasn’t great so not much to be seen but you could see how on a good day, the spot had so much potential!

    I also met a lovely group of Spanish women who were really worried about my leg which wasn’t hurting anymore but was swelling inexplicably 🤷🏻‍♀️

    I was contemplating a 37km day to Leon the next day to go to a health centre and get my leg checked but the Camino always provides and had better plans for me! ✨    Read more

  • Traveler2023 Passport Chronicles
    Day 32

    Camino Day 22: El Burgo to Mansilla

    September 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Total Distance: 22km
    Step Count: 33.6k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 21
    Injuries: shin splints

    Today I woke up worried about my leg swelling up so I started walking and checking in which town I could catch a bus to Leon which was the next big city (less than 40km away). The first “bigger” town along the way was 13km away so until then, there was not much I could do.

    In Reliegos, I stopped for brekkie (tortilla #1) at la cantina de Teddy which was a blessing in disguise! The hospitalero was so welcoming, chatty and playing jokes on everyone so I asked him and his wife for some guidance.

    His wife told me that the next town had a small hospital with an emergency service and suggested going there first instead of Leon because it would be faster than at a big city public hospital… boy she was right! ✨

    Over brekkie I met a young Aussie/Japanese gal who was living in Sweden and we walked together until the next town. She worked in education too so it was a pretty cool and interesting convo the whole way there. She was walking further that day and I had some time to kill before going to the hospital so we had lunch together at Mansilla de las Mulas (tortilla #2) and parted ways.

    The hospital visit lasted 30min all in all and it was as suspected, pain in the shins due to the terrain and overuse. The doc prescribed proper anti inflammatory medication and strongly suggested to get an ankle brace and have a rest day. I left relieved knowing that it was nothing serious and that I’d be in my way soon again! 🏥

    I ended up staying in town and ran into the three Spanish women I’d met the night before at the Albergue. They had a four-bed room and offered me the spare bed so I would be free from snorers that night (so nice!). I also gave my 8 of swords card to Lorena, which I’d been carrying around for days not knowing why or what it meant until I got my tarot reading the day before and heard her talk about her life. The card was meant for her and I hope it brings her some good luck! 🃏

    There was also a lovely dinner with a group I’d been seeing since the beginning and had occasionally hung out with.

    The Albergue was so nice with a beautiful garden as well as aircon and ceiling fans in the rooms! We didn’t need them anymore as the heatwave was over but this Albergue went go down as the unicorn of the camino! 🦄    Read more

  • Traveler2023 Passport Chronicles
    Day 33

    Camino Day 23: Mansilla to León

    September 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Total Distance: 18.2km (by bus)
    Step Count: 15.8k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 21
    Injuries: shin splints

    I didn’t walk today 😔
    The doctor was very emphatic on taking a rest day so I caught a bus early in the morning to León. Most of the city entrances were not the nicest to walk so I figured this would be a good section to skip without much FOMO.

    I got to town so early that I managed to get some beautiful shots at the Cathedral without anyone in the square! I sat at a cafe there to enjoy my coffee with a view and shortly after I bumped into Lukas and Tommaso. Of course we’d reunite! I also met Little John (who was going through his Camino spending more by staying in private rooms to spare people from his snoring - good people still exist!).

    After dropping my things off at the Albergue, we went to a mass with singing nuns (finally!). It was beautiful 😍

    From there, Lukas, Tommaso and I went to the museum and then walked around the city centre as there was a big medieval festival taking place. There was music and food and market stalls everywhere.

    Later that day, after resting my leg a bit more, I caught up with the Spanish ladies and we went to visit the Cathedral, known for its more than 130 church windows! Breathtakingly beautiful! ⛪️

    By the time we came out, it was pouring so we found an undercover spot to enjoy some food and drinks, one last hurrah before we parted ways the next day and another bittersweet farewell. We were all headed to Astorga but they’d walk the stretch in 3 days and I would do it in 2 as Jorge would visit me on the trail there 😊    Read more

  • Traveler2023 Passport Chronicles
    Day 34

    Camino Day 24: León to Hospital deÓrbigo

    September 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Total Distance: 41.5km
    Step Count: 58k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 21
    Injuries: shin splints

    Blippin’ longest day ever walking! Not just on the Camino but in my lifetime! - to date anyways.

    What was meant to be a 34km day (a bit of a stretch for my leg and the longest day I’d have so far) ended up being 41km! All the guide books and trail info about this stage were wrong as confirmed by the locals later.

    The walk itself was flat, uneventful, serene, with minimal stops, a very early start and some rain during the morning. I ended up walking the whole day with a Mexican woman who’d asked me in León if she could stick with me just to make her way out of town. It would be dark and she didn’t want to get lost but we found our way out easily thanks to another pilgrim who was heading out at the same time.

    Grumpiness kicked in after 30 odd KMs when I realised I still had another 8 to reach my destination but all the aches and pains disappeared in an instant when we arrived! Hospital de Órbigo was by far one of the most beautiful arrivals to a village with its long Roman bridge and the beautiful love story surrounding it (el Passo Honroso)! ❤️

    We were also going to stay at an Albergue run by Venezuelans which to my surprise was all dedicated to paintings by pilgrims. It was so colourful and reminded me of posadas by the beach back home! 💛💙❤️

    Lukas and I spent like an hour painting and then went to enjoy a well deserved dinner with Tim and then lots of sleep! The next day would be a short one 😊    Read more

  • Traveler2023 Passport Chronicles
    Day 35

    Camino Day 25: Órbigo to Astorga

    September 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Total Distance: 18km
    Step Count: 32.3k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 21
    Injuries: shin splints

    After some jewellery shopping in the morning (yay! for beautiful gold Camino mementos), Lukas and I set off to Astorga.
    We took the scenic way (as you should) even though the day before we’d paid an extra 8km penalty for it! This was the first day we actually walked together.

    After León, we had entered into the third phase of the Camino: the spiritual phase. We were also getting much closer to Galicia and the landscape was starting to turn very green! The contrast to the plains was incredible!

    I spent most of the walk enjoying the new scenery and talking with my lil bro, a smart, sweet and very funny cookie.

    About 6km before Astorga, we came about “La Casa de los Dioses”, a zen like place with lots of food available to pilgrims and passers for a donation (camino magic ✨). They even had Vegemite which Lukas didn’t like 😆

    We ended up chillin’ for a while there and walked the last few Kms. Jorge was already in town when I got there so I left my lil bro with a plan to where we’d meet up again the next day.

    Jorge was on a mission to pamper me the whole day (as I was still living the pilgrim life) so he took me out to lunch, dinner and a few drinks. He also brought me some more of his mom’s anti inflammatory ointment for my shins and a sweater which would save my life this evening and during many cold nights ahead! 🧥

    We walked all around town and spent the loveliest of days together! We also realised we’re terrible tourists and took a few random snaps around midnight before we called it a day. One of them was actually at the Cathedral, a historical artistic monument of this beautiful town which we’d visited earlier. ⛪️

    Running on Spanish time (where everything happens after 8pm!) was a bit of a struggle for pilgrims who tend to get up early but today, being somewhat sleep deprived was for a good cause 😊    Read more

  • Traveler2023 Passport Chronicles
    Day 36

    Camino Day 26: Astorga to Foncebadón

    September 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Total Distance: 21.9km
    Step Count: 33.4k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 22
    Injuries: shin splints

    I’d planned a relatively short day today so I could sleep in a bit (till 7) and not much was open around us for brekkie so I happily accepted a ride to the next town. This would save me 5km walking out of the city (cheating? 🫣). I’d already taken a boat and a bus so this just added a bit more variety to the mode of transport mix!

    We were enjoying some seriously delicious tortillas for brekkie and bumped into Szab and Ben, a Hungarian dad and son who were doing the Camino together (so adorable!). Ben and I had met many days earlier and bonded over the amount of weight in our packs allocated to journals! Ben also seemed to have everything happen to him: blisters, pains, aches and today’s latest, a whole bunch of crazy bites on his feet and arms that were all scary swollen. Despite this, he was one of the most upbeat and optimistic people I encountered on my way.

    We gave him the famous ointment and then it was time to say goodbye to Jorge 🥺 and get on with the 20km I still had to walk that day. 🥾

    A bit into my walk, I got a message from Lukas saying to keep an eye out for the guy who made these wax stamps we all wanted on our credentials. No one knew where we’d find the guy and it was a lovely addition to our collection! It’s a beautiful and clever way to fund the Camino too.

    All the towns along the way today were roughly 5km apart so it was easy to take a bit of a rest every hour or so. The last 6km would be all uphill under the scorching sun to Foncebadón which was up in the mountain. The town was beautiful and left us a mere 30min walk from la Cruz de Ferro where we’d enjoy sunrise the next day.

    I finally met Lukas at the parroquial albergue in town which offered beds for a donation (great for people with a tight budget). There was only one bed left so we asked Fernando (the hospitalero) if he’d save it for a friend who was behind us and needed it more than we did. He was surprised by our thoughtfulness and concern for others that he offered us mattresses on the floor (which we kindly declined) and then invited us to join them in the morning for breakfast (which we promised we’d join). Kindness begets kindness! ✨

    We were exhausted so after feasting at La Taberna de Gaia (a really cool medieval restaurant), and quickly bumping into Mark (best hugs on the Camino!), we called it a day. Yay for sleep! 🛌    Read more

  • Traveler2023 Passport Chronicles
    Day 37

    Camino Day 27: Foncebadón to Molinaseca

    September 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Total Distance: 21.9km
    Step Count: 33.4k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 22
    Injuries: shin splints

    An early start paid off today as we caught the most beautiful sunrise leaving Foncebadón! Before setting off, we popped by the parroquial albergue to say farewell and thank you to Fernando, the hospitalero. He welcomed us with coffee and gifted me a small shell for my pack. I’d heard that you should never buy them for yourself but rather to gift so it felt special to receive one.

    Shortly after leaving we arrived at the Cruz de Ferro, the highest point on the whole Camino. The tradition is to throw a stone, usually brought from the pilgrim's place of origin or picked up along the way. Placing it at the cross before entering Santiago symbolises a release of burdens. 🪨

    The rest of the day would see us passing a few very beautiful villages on the mountain and an endless downhill to Molinaseca, where we enjoyed an epic swimming spot under a beautiful bridge!

    We stayed at the Albergue Santa Marina, a highlight of my journey! The albergue was so spacious, with a beautiful lounge, garden and dorms. The hospitalero was so lovely too! We ended up talking for a couple hours about the Camino, it’s history, Spain and life in general. Even got a free beer and another beautiful token for my pack! 🍻

    Szab and Ben also stayed here and we met more beautiful people around the dinner table. Communal dinners are one of my favourite things on the Camino! 🍽️    Read more

  • Traveler2023 Passport Chronicles
    Day 38

    Camino Day 28: Molinaseca to Villafranca

    September 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Total Distance: 31km
    Step Count: 44.6k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 22
    Injuries: shin splints

    Today was meant to be a 24km day but we were told that if we could walk a bit longer, we should go to Villafranca del Bierzo, which we were glad we did!

    The walk was very enjoyable and full of surprises! Even walking through Ponferrada where everything was closed due to the town’s festival led us to finding cocosettes! These yummy Venezuelan wafers would accompany our coffees over the next couple days. 😋

    After Ponferrada and a couple kms walking through an industrial zone, we rejoined the actual Camino and ran into little John who we’d walk with for the rest of the day. We also met Anna from Germany in one of our coffee/beer stops. We had so many stops today we thought we’d never make it to our destination but we couldn’t say no to coffee or beer or ice cream or Venezuelan arepas! I had literally manifested arepas that morning and the camino provided! ✨

    Little John treated us to lunch (so sweet!) and we found the most beautiful of chapels along the way too.

    We also got stopped by a truck that was passing by when were walking through Cacabelos and the driver told us to grab some grapes from the back… we hadn’t quite realised what was happening but we were so surprised and grateful when we did. They were delish! 🍇

    The final Kms were all uphill which my shin splints were really appreciated. It was also cloudy which we all appreciated!

    Walking into Villafranca was absolutely beautiful! The town is set in a valley surrounded by mountains and greenery. Apparently, it also has around 10 churches (crazy for a town that size!) but all the ones we saw were closed. However, we did make it to dinner before the downpour! Everyone ran inside the restaurant but a few of us just kept eating and 15min later it was all over! 😅    Read more

  • Traveler2023 Passport Chronicles
    Day 39

    Camino Day 29: Villafranca to Trabadelo

    September 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Total Distance: 13km
    Step Count: 21.6k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 22
    Injuries: shin splints

    While today was a very short day, it was all up on the mountains! Nothing like a bit of a sleep in and a steep climb to get the day going. The walk itself was simply stunning!

    On our way, we had a long break at the top of the mountain and then another one in Pradela, a cute little village where we enjoyed a delicious lunch (omelette as there was no tortilla) and played with the cutest kittens and cats! So many stray cats in Spain 🥺 I also bought some blueberry jam 😋

    We barely saw one other person on the trail and loved having the mountains all to ourselves. It was all blue skies and sunshine until like 2km before our destination when it started to drizzle.

    The day before, Lukas was being all infects out whether he wanted to stay at Trabadelo or keep going to Las Herrerías so he could do a stretch horseback riding. I was hoping to stay at Casa Susi, a very small Albergue (10-12 beds) established by an Aussie woman who has a beautiful and inspiring life and love story (feel free to ask me about it). It’s one of those stories that make you believe more than ever in the magic of the Camino! ✨

    When I called to book my bed, there was only 1 left and I took it as Lukas was uncertain as to what he’d do. They said that if he stayed in town he could still join the communal dinner and that they’d call me if any cancellations (very slim chance).

    So we are on our way and Lukas decides to stay in town. One hour later, I receive a call about a cancellation and just like that a bed at the Albergue had become available. Coincidence? Camino magic? I prefer to believe the latter and so did Lukas when he finally and wholeheartedly manifested he wanted to stay there. 🏡

    The Albergue was so beautiful with a huge veggie garden which is used to make the communal dinners for pilgrims, access to the river, and the closest thing I ever got to having a “private” room in a shared dorm!

    The dinner was one of the most fun nights we had to date, the food was unbelievably delicious and we befriended the whole lot on the table! Everyone went around sharing their story and why they were there. The rest of the night was filled with funny tales (anyone know much about the witches of Pamplona?), so much laughter and finding out that all the Aussies on the table (like 8 of us including the Albergue owners) we’ll be reuniting in January in the Blue Mountains! ⛰️    Read more

  • Traveler2023 Passport Chronicles
    Day 40

    Camino Day 30: Trabadelo to O Cebreiro

    September 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Total Distance: 19.9km
    Step Count: 32.4k
    Blisters to date: 2
    Tortillas to date: 22
    Injuries: shin splints

    Another beautifully perfect day on the Camino, full of greenery, farm animals and mountains! ⛰️

    Today we officially crossed into Galicia after a bit of a climb to O Cebreiro, one of the most charming towns with jaw dropping views all round! Galicia would mark the nearing end of our journey.

    It was a short day so we stopped a lot! Tried “tarta de Santiago” for the first time, had a melt in your mouth Spanish ham and goats cheese toast, dunked my head in every water fountain I could find and the spent the whole afternoon chillin in the town.

    Spent a lil while with a lovely group of people we’d come across a few times, all from different places who’d met in the early stages and started walking together till the end. 🍻

    I needed so downtime after that and sat a bar nearby when Tommaso appeared and decided to join me. He was keen to try out my watercolours so we shared a couple hours of silence while he painted and I journaled. 🎨

    An Italian girl and a couple of her friends eventually joined us as well as Lukas who had been in Siesta mode. We were all going to have dinner together but somehow we managed to lose the other group, so it ended up being the three of us enjoying another pilgrim’s menu. 🤷🏻‍♀️

    The food in Galicia is so yum!    Read more

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