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On The Way again
  • Salma T

On The Way again

A bit of travel, a long walk across Spain, and more travel after — with the Camino at the heart, just as it should be. This time it’s the Norte and Primitivo routes. Going along the way, my way. Weiterlesen
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  • Beginn der Reise
    2. August 2025
    Salma TOn The Way againReisender

    Defrost mode: Activated!

    2. August in Australien ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Currently on the plane, finally ready to take off!

    After a 1.5-hour delay, I’m finally leaving the cold, rainy Aussie winter behind, but it’s been quite the lead-up! After a 17-hour workday on Thursday, I drove to Sydney on Friday running on just three hours of sleep, only to find out my Venezuelan friends (whom I haven’t seen in twenty years!) had given me the wrong arrival date #FailedReunion. And this morning? I managed to spill a $7 coffee while waiting at the gate and had to buy another… because of course! 🫠

    Now on the bright side, I got a day off to rest and catch up with some of my favourite people in Sydney before the trip. I’ve also scored a window seat and an empty one beside me (without the usual hefty fee). Maybe the stars are starting to align now that I’m finally ‘On the Way’ again! ✨

    So looking forward to sunshine, lighter clothes and not checking the weather app every few hours.

    First stop is Hamburg via Singapore (and the rooftop pool at the airport). Let the defrosting begin! ✈️ ☀️    Weiterlesen

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    A tale of two cities: Hamburg & Lüneburg

    3.–4. Aug. in Deutschland ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After nearly a 30-hour journey, Svenja and my favorite little gal picked me up at the airport around noon and the rest of the day was spent catching up with the whole family over a classic German homemade dinner (Königsberger Klopse) prepared by Moritz. I pretty much collapsed from exhaustion afterwards, jet lag hitting hard. 😋😴

    The next morning started with coffee (of course!) then once the kids were picked up, Svenja and I headed out to see Hamburg. Last time I visited, we didn’t manage to make it into the city, but this time the weather was perfect with blue skies and sunshine. ☕️ ☀️

    We took the train to the Altstadt and wandered through the streets, passing by the Alsterfontäne and walking through the Alster Arcades to the impressive town hall. After that, we took the underground to explore along the Elbe River, taking in the skyline, the Elbphilharmonie, the port and the Elbe Tunnel. 🇩🇪

    After that, we wandered through St. Pauli, explored the red-light district, and stopped for lunch and coffee at some hidden local gems Svenja knew about — the kind of places you’re unlikely to stumble upon without a local and that’s how I ended up having the best falafel I’ve ever tasted outside of Lebanon! (To date) 🧆

    We continued walking through the city until it was time to head back, but not without a twist. Our train got delayed by nearly 40 minutes which, as I’ve come to expect in Germany, isn’t all that unusual… ⏰ 🚆

    Back home, we spent some time with the lil ones before heading to Lüneburg to meet Meik, who had arranged a lovely dinner for us. We kicked things off with dates wrapped in jamón, served with Port wine, followed by a homemade paella paired with a rich Spanish Monastrell, La Orphica. Dessert was a plum cake and espresso. When we found out Svenja was allergic to seafood, Meik quickly put together a different dish just for her, which was incredibly considerate. 🥘 🍷

    We were so caught up in conversation and the food that I didn’t even think to take a photo, which I now regret. But it was such a great evening! And I somehow made it till midnight!

    The body’s tired, but my stomach and heart are full 🤍    Weiterlesen

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    Rest day, anyone?

    5. August in Deutschland ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The last full day in Ahrensburg was pure wholesomeness!

    After lending a hand with some construction waste removal at the house, we hopped on the bikes and headed into town with the kids for some ice cream and fresh air. Arvel, who, until now, would only speak through his mom, happily shared some of his ice cream with me when I asked in German. Such a sweetheart! And seriously, what 4 year-old orders pistachio flavoured ice cream!? 🍨 🤷🏻‍♀️

    We then wandered around town and rode to a park where the kids played around endlessly, having the absolute best time! Ahrensburg is so beautifully green! 🚴🏻‍♀️

    Back at the house, there was a quick colouring session before grandma and grandpa arrived to pick up the kids, leaving us grown-ups with a kid-free evening. We’d hoped for a fun night out, but every place we tried to book was fully booked or closed on Tuesdays or that week. So, Moritz ended up whipping up a delicious mushroom risotto (guess someone was secretly craving home cooking instead of dining out, and no, it wasn’t me!). But sitting around the kitchen table, sharing a meal together, without expecting to collapse from exhaustion by 9pm, was such a treat 😅

    Maybe we were just saving our energy for the big adventure ahead: our trip to Amsterdam!    Weiterlesen

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    The great Amsterdam catch-up!

    6.–7. Aug. in den Niederlanden ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    As we headed to catch the bus to the train station, we unexpectedly ran into Neele, who happened to be jogging past the bus stop! It was so nice to see her, even if just for a moment, before I left Germany 🚍

    Svenja and I traveled to Amsterdam by train, not before indulging in some delicious pretzels with Bavarian Obatzda cheese at Hamburg Central Station. Seriously, yum! 🥨 🧀

    We arrived in the late afternoon, checked into our place in the city centre and then headed out to explore. We wandered through the lively streets of the Red Light District before making our way to Chinatown to find somewhere for dinner while we waited for Matteo to arrive🏮🚨🍜

    I hadn’t seen Matteo since early 2023 when he left Australia for good, so it was really nice to be reunited! Suddenly, there were three of us wandering around town, me and some of my favourite people, all back together again 🙆🏻‍♀️🙆🏼‍♂️🙆🏼‍♀️

    After Matteo had some dinner, we called it a night, happy to had been out and about in the city for a bit and ready to recharge for the next day! 😴

    The next morning, we kicked things off with a #Scrambilicious breakfast before meeting up with Laura, who had finally arrived — the gang officially complete! Together we wandered beyond the city centre (which, surprisingly, is very filthy in the mornings) and enjoyed morning tea at a lovely café in a park. 🍳 🥐 ☕️

    From there, we headed to try what Laura’s friend claimed were the best dumplings in Amsterdam, and honestly… they delivered. We stuffed our faces and were grateful for all the walking afterwards to balance it out! 😅

    Later that evening, we parted ways with Laura to head to the Hollow Coves concert, meeting up again the next day for a beautiful breakfast by the water. We discovered Amsterdam’s swim spot, browsed De Pipj district in search of the best stroopwafels (an absolute must!), and soaked up the sunny vibes 🤤

    Matteo, unfortunately, wasn’t feeling well and missed that part. Svenja went off shopping, while Laura and I wandered through the museum district before heading back. That evening, we met up with Laura’s friend and, before dinner, treated ourselves to some classic Dutch bitterballen (crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside, and so yummy!). We ended the night saying goodbye to Laura, grateful we were been able to reunite this time! 🤍    Weiterlesen

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    Hollow Coves in the woods!

    7. August in den Niederlanden ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Some nights just feel like they were meant to happen! 🎫

    Tonight I saw Hollow Coves at a stunning outdoor venue in Bloemendaal, surrounded by tall trees and a soft evening light. It couldn’t have been a more perfect setting for their warm, earthy sound. 🌿🪾

    I was with Svenja and Matti, sharing laughter, drinks, and those quiet moments between songs when you just know you’re exactly where you need to be. They sang all my favourite songs, though the highlight was “On the Way”, a song that feels like it was written for my upcoming Camino and the absolute best one to end the concert on a high! 👣

    Without even realising it, this concert became the spark that set my whole Euro trip in motion. I had the tickets long before I had flights booked… or even time off work approved. Funny how the path sometimes finds you before you even start walking it! ✨    Weiterlesen

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    Windmills, Haarlem and the North Sea!

    9. August in den Niederlanden ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The final day in Amsterdam started with saying goodbye to Svenja over our favourite breakfast: the best scrambled eggs and croissant ever! The farewell afterwards was a bit rushed farewell as Matti and I had decided to spend the last day together exploring a bit beyond the city and we were going to miss our bus! 🥐 🍳 🚌

    Our first stop was the Dutch windmills in Zaandam, where we saw several still in working order, including one that produces pigment used for paint, the same kind that the great masters once relied on. It was amazing to see the traditional process still alive today. ⚙️🎨

    From there we went to Haarlem, a charming town with a historic center. We enjoyed a relaxed lunch before wandering through the local markets, full of fresh produce, flowers, and stalls selling everything from cheese to crafts. The highlight was visiting the Grote Kerk, Haarlem’s impressive church, with its grand architecture and rich history. ⛪️ 🥣

    Next, we continued to Zandvoort on the North Sea coast. It was refreshing to see the wide sandy beach, and we finally tried kibbling, tasty little pieces of fried fish that are a Dutch classic. The water was warmer than expected, though the pigeons on the beach made the experience a bit more entertaining than relaxing. 🌊

    Back in Amsterdam for the evening, we caught the tram into a new part of town we hadn’t been to before. To my surprise, we even spotted flamingoes in a small park area. We wrapped up the day with a relaxed pub meal (with the biggest menu ever-literally!) and more walking through the city back to our accommodation. 🦩🍽️

    Tomorrow would be an early flight out for me, so this final day felt like the perfect balance of sightseeing and new experiences to round off the trip with friends I hope I’ll see again soon! 🤍    Weiterlesen

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  • Salma TOn The Way againReisender

    Feasts and fiesta in San Sebastián!

    10.–13. Aug. in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I made my way from Amsterdam via Bilbao and finally arrived in San Sebastián. However, the first order of business was laundry! And while waiting, I met a lovely fellow pilgrim and we ended up chatting about everything. That’s when I learned I had arrived right in the middle of Semana Grande, a full week of festivities, complete with a nightly international fireworks contest. 🧺 🎉

    That evening I had my first tortilla with a glass of wine at the hostel’s outdoor bar before heading down to the beach for the fireworks. The crowd was massive and the show itself lasted almost 20 minutes (longer than New Year’s Eve in Sydney!) 🎆

    My first full day started slowly. I wandered through the streets, found a nice spot for coffee and breakfast, then headed to the beach for a refreshing swim. Surprisingly, the water was a lot warmer than I expected it too, so nice! Later I showered and went back out to explore more of the parades, markets and festive energy around town. 🎪

    I also had some practical things to sort out: organising my pack, preparing to send a bag ahead to Santiago, and picking up my pilgrim credential and shell. The plan had been to walk the first stage and return to San Sebastián for the night, but I wasn’t feeling 100% (probably from all the cigarette smoke between Amsterdam and Spain), so I gave myself another rest day. 🎒

    Instead, I made the most of it through food: pintxos at Bar Haizea (an Anthony Bourdain spot and absolutely delicious!), plus ice cream, empanadas and of course, more pintxos (not in that order). San Sebastián is impossible to resist but by the end I was full, happy, and ready to start walking the Camino! 🍢🍷    Weiterlesen

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  • Salma TOn The Way againReisender

    Camino Norte Day 1: San Seb to Getaria

    13.–14. Aug. in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Walked: 24.4kms
    Hours: 5:48
    Steps: 40,528
    Tortillas to date: 5
    Blisters to date: 0

    The Camino del Norte began with the most beautiful sunrise as I left San Sebastián, but also with some nerves. 🌅

    For almost an hour I didn’t see another pilgrim and wondered if this would be a solitary path. Then, suddenly, I started seeing people. First, a group of walkers just before my first coffee stop at the 12 Tribes religious community, weird but lovely. ☕️

    Soon after I met Itzi and Isra, two locals from the Basque Country, and the day changed completely! We walked together all the way to Getaria, having one of those easy, flowing conversations that make the kilometers pass quickly. The views along the coast were stunning, and reaching Getaria felt like a real reward, specially in the heat 🥵

    We celebrated our arrival with pintxos and drinks. I tried txakoli (a crisp local white wine) for the first time, and also Gildas (skewers of olives, anchovies, and peppers, sometimes with a spicy kick). All delish! 😋

    At the albergue, while I was preparing a simple dinner with a tortilla and supermarket tomatoes, the hospitalero shook his head at my tomatoes and then generously brought me three giant ones from his own garden, which transformed the meal. I ended up sharing dinner with Dom, a French pilgrim walking the Norte backwards, and we somehow chatted in French for three hours! 🍅

    It was a hot day, Getaria was beautiful with its port and beaches, and knowing Elkano came from here gave it a special touch! A great first stage 👣 ☀️    Weiterlesen

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    Camino Norte Day 2: Getaria to Ibiri Auz

    14.–15. Aug. in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Walked: 26.4kms
    Hours: 8:46
    Steps: 40,528
    Tortillas to date: 6
    Blisters to date: 0

    A perfect day along the Flysch Route, one of the most breathtaking stretches of the Basque coast! The cliffs and rock formations, sculpted by millions of years of wind and waves, created a dramatic backdrop as we walked along the winding coastal path. 🌊 ☀️

    Before starting the coastal section, we met Lorenzo (Italy) and Josef (Germany) and began walking together. But at the very first hill, Isra and Itzi took off, leaving me to spend the rest of the day with new friends. The 3 of us stuck together through the heat and countless uphills, pausing often to admire the views and the most playful horses along the way (one in particular who just wanted his nose scratched, so cute!). 🐴

    By the time we reached Deva, the town festival was in full swing and we were desperate to find food although almost everything was closed! The streets were packed with people, music and laughter, and we were secretly happy not to be staying there! But the day wasn’t over yet because after a quick bite, there was still another 6 km climb to our destination. 🎉

    Our albergue at Ibiri Auzoa was a hidden gem. The first communal dinner, hosted by Antonio the hospitalero, felt warm and welcoming, and the outdoor area was simply stunning, a perfect place to rest after a very long and hot day. On the way up, we met Tim and Cesare, two more German pilgrims, and over dinner we met Ines from France. 🍽️ 🚿

    We also had a curious and unforgettable encounter with a girl hiking in a dress. She was curious about the French Way but seemed mostly intent on hearing me critique it to reassure her choice not to walk it but it’s because of the French Way that I wanted to come back (you meet all sorts of people in life) 🤷🏻‍♀️

    It was a day full of heat, hills, laughter and connection. The Flysch Route was everything I hoped for: stunning, challenging and unforgettable, a true highlight of this Camino and it’s only day 2❣️    Weiterlesen

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    Ende der Reise
    23. September 2025
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