Hululu Waterfall

It is generally difficult to move around freely in Tanzania. We should have been more determined on hiking up alone to Hululu waterfall but instead find ourselves being escorted along unmistakable tracks by the campsite's local guide 🙄. He does a good job though, showing us a tree nursery, plucking locally grown peaches for us and even finding a super-camouflaged chameleon! The scenery is beautiful but not much of pristine forest is left on the way up to the waterfall. Back in camp we want to tip the guide for his unasked service and are retorted by a grumpy, unhappy face: The money we offer is not enough, he wants twice as much. Congratulations! Again, lack of transparency from organisational side and miscommunication from our side lead to a rather disillusioning experience. These impressions are additionally shaded by the camp's managing ranger who keeps asking for money and loitering around the car. Mäh. Why did we pay those official camping and forest service fees if he doesn't get paid adequately for maintaining this camp?

After our hike we jump into the refreshing river, have a lazy afternoon tea and prepare a tasty curry dish with mango and those peaches. In the ford of the river I see locals washing recently harvested cassava roots for market sale. I approach them and see that they simply peel and eat them directly. My curiosity gets rewarded with a fresh, juice-dripping root which I chew on in a similar way. Doesn't taste too bad but neither too good. A little bit floury. Later I will be reading that consuming raw cassava might actually be quite poisonous, depending on the variety. Apparently I survive unknowingly because a few hours later I manage to bring a bun baking experiment in my Trangia multi-fuel stove to great success! Fluffy wheat sponges are waiting for being breakfasted!Les mer