Scudamores On Tour

April - August 2019
With our eldest starting school in September, we are following our hearts for one more big adventure before term times begin. We hope to explore as much of Europe as we can taking in mountains, lakes, rivers, beaches & islands across 8 countries... Read more
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  • Day 46

    Otranto and down to Italys heel

    May 16, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    After a smooth sailing, we have decided to head south from Bari to find a little farm stop on the coast and are grateful to see sunshine, though the rain does still threaten to follow us. We find a Lidl (supermarket of choice for this whole trip due to purchases at other unnamed supermarkets such as 4euro punnets of tomatoes, 3euro loaves of bread and bottles of wine costing more than 4euros!!) and pick up some new italian snacks and after taking 3 fuel stations to figure out how to actually get fuel out of the pump, the rest of the journey is without drama.

    We arrive to a very quiet field with a few other campers and as the sun is still out (!) we decide to find the tiny cove beach that the campsite points us to. For some reason we decide to take the pushchair to the beach (?) and so obviously find that the path is totally impassable due to a huge muddy puddle! After some more crystal maze-style attempts by me and Amelia, with me falling in the very gross-looking puddle, we make some planks of wood into bridges and find the lovely little cove.

    The sea is warm, but the rain still looms so we do some den building, I make a tiny dent in clearing the absolute ton of plastic that is covering this little cove, and we head back for some dinner.

    Our first experience of Italian camping and we are reminded what we’ve read about the electricity ampage in Italy (Croatia’s campsites were all pretty modern so we’d forgotten what low ampage meant) - it takes us about 2 hours to cook a really simple meal and we have two very hungry (bit luckily distracted by other children with balls and frisbees)!

    We decide to head straight on the next morning, Amelia is now sporting a big swollen eye, we guess that pile of ants that they kept playing in might have liked the taste of them both as they both now have a fair few new bites - a few doses of piriton in case it’s a reaction!

    On recommendation of the campsite lady we take the long route around the coast to get to the east side of Italy’s heel (and luckily there’s only one ‘can we make it through that road?’ incident) - it is a beautiful coastline with tiny coves, lots of rugged cliffs - we are amazed at how some of the buildings and houses are built on the very edges as though they will fall in at any minute, with stunning views over the Adriatic Sea, we make some stops on the way around to find caves where bears live(!!) and views of beautiful ports!
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  • Day 47

    Gallipoli

    May 17, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    There was no real reason for us to choose this place but it was on our way and looked like it had some decent sites to stay.

    Amelia was overjoyed when she saw the size of the park, which is now her default question when we arrive at a new site “has it got a park?” We check out pitches and for some odd reason they have wires strung all over the place above the pitches, for no real reason but to stop really tall Mohos in maybe. Someone who had clearly been before helped us in by holding up the wire with a well-worn broom made for the job.

    Once settled (right opposite the park), a few goes on the park and a very slow dinner (trying to cook way too much on the lowest ampage ever...more salads we decide!), we head to the beach. No sand here, but a wooden veranda sitting over the shore line, so Nic takes the children and climbs over and look for crabs in the rock pools.

    The swimming pool is solar heated and still a bit chilly, Coen isn’t keen even with their wetsuits on but Amelia enjoys bouncing off and sliding down the half balloon inflatables in the pool and has the ginormous pool totally to herself - joy of off season travel!!

    Next day we get a shuttle into the old town to have a look around. We get our first italian coffee and pastries and wander through the tiny streets with old buildings. Very similar to some of the old towns in Croatia, with many little churches cropping up right in the middle of the narrow streets as we also go in a little nativity museum which feels weird at this time of year!

    We make it back to the campsite on the shuttle after a few wrong turns on the southern heat and we head up the coast and stop at some lovely sandy coves where lakes have been formed by land cutting off the water, which is interesting. There a lot of kite surfers out in the perfect cove lagoons, with perfect conditions....Nic reminisces about the last kite surfing session he had and wishes there had been space for his kit. We enjoy watching for a while and then decide to head on to Alberobello - a bit of a detour and we are zig zagging back on ourselves but had not planned this bit very well. This place was on our list but not quite spelt correctly, we check with our friend, Kat back home who has an Italian husband and this place is on her “visit before I die list”. So we better not miss it!

    We arrive quite late after a very stressful drive, with hangry children going wild in the back and police moving us on when we stop to look at the map - but amazingly for a world heritage site they have a Moho car park 150 meters from the Trulli...
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  • Day 48

    Alberobello - beautiful tree (& houses!)

    May 18, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    After a ‘tense’ drive into the town centre (hungry children/policeman moving us on when we stop to look at the map!), we find a spot to camp right next to the famous Trulli site. There’s definitely a Saturday buzz in the little town, we wander through the world heritage site, these buildings are amazing.

    Built with little cone roofs in the 15th century - so that the poorer people that lived in these parts could find out when the tax men were coming, remove the top stone meaning the roofs collapsed and avoid the house taxes - with no roof, they weren’t houses after all. They could then rebuild the ‘mushroom roofs’ as Amelia called them, in just one day.

    Many of the little buildings are now shops, ice cream shops and cafes, as you go into each, you can still see where bedrooms, kitchen stoves and living areas would have been. We find a souvenir shop in what was the smallest house in the area..a tiny corner building where a family of 7 once lived.

    We enjoy a pizza (although Nic managed to order one with iceberg lettuce on?!) and wine (lots...in case is noisy where we’re staying!) and get a good nights sleep before we visit again the next morning for breakfast ice cream!

    Many of the tiny shops are full of good quality items, and everything we’ve found in this town has been so reasonably priced for world heritage. It’s been a lovely visit!
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  • Day 49

    Monopoli, Polignano al Mare & Gargano

    May 19, 2019 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    After realising we’ve missed a couple of beautiful spots, we head back out to the coast (that we’ve already driven past!)...

    First stop is Monopoli and Nic is thrilled (!) to find ourselves in the middle of another busy town centre with tiny streets, crazy drivers, huge potholes and no clue where to park!

    We find a spot though, and wander through the old town, find some delish local food, get a look at the old city walls and beautiful church’s hidden within...before an ominous looking cloud threatens a downpour. We finish our tour of the lovely town just in time, as we get in the Moho as the rain begins. The coast of Monopoli is surrounded by tiny little turquoise coves, some with white sand, some rocky.

    We make the quickest visit ever to the next stop, Polignano Al Mare as the rain sets in above our heads. We pop up the croozer to pack the children into and run along the coast a couple of kilometres to find the beautiful view of the coastal town with buildings perched on the cliff edge, dropping straight down to the turquoise seas.

    We head north and find a little campsite on a long stretch of sandy beach, at the end of some more very hole-y roads. We park next to the play park, Coen takes a few more tumbles and bumps (we decide we should swap the ice cream tally for a ‘Coen’s accidents’ tally - he definitely gets his mum’s clumsiness!!).

    The power once more is not quite enough to cook a full meal so we grab a pizza (any excuse!) and enjoy a sunny morning at the beach the next morning.
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  • Day 50

    Viesta

    May 20, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 0 °C

    We’ve heard this part of the coast is worth a stop, but it’s another hairy drive to reach it as we head into the national park. The scenery is stunning along the coast with little beaches, and rocky outcrops. This is another very windy road with hair pin bends but luckily not as narrow as we have experienced - still a lot of concentration needed from the driver!!

    We arrive in the coastal town of Vieste, it seems half holiday town, half historic village, but were not convinced it was worth the loooong journey. The old town is picturesque with rugged coast of the town dropping straight down into the ocean; we watch some interesting fisherman pulling their huge nets on winches for their catch - seems like a really traditional practice and we wonder how far out the nets go. We carry on down narrow streets and cobbles, Amelia hones her scooter skills, and Coen chases after, but all of a sudden we see a huge storm coming. We are a fair way from the campsite, luckily we have a pushchair and scooter - we peg it back to the campsites as quickly as possible.

    Back at the site we head to the park (which leaves a little H&S to the imagination - the double swing being held up by a hosepipe around a nearby tree and a sea saw with a nice spike that would put a hole right through your foot) - needless to say the kids love it and want to spend hours there...luckily we’ve also stocked up on wine and Prosecco. Nic gets some olive oil advice from some Italian holiday makers too.

    We leave the next day for a long drive, coast to coast, east to west at its widest point, and head for Sorrento and the infamous Amalfi Coast...
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  • Day 51

    The Amalfi Coast

    May 21, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    After the longest drive ever which to our total amazement went relatively smoothly (only minor meltdowns) we hit the Amalfi coast.

    We arrive in Sorrento and hit rush hour (after a few days here we realise every hour is rush hour!), after a while in a tunnel (not great for my claustrophobia) we eventually find our campsite on the edge of town.

    Obviously the first thing the children spot is the park! A pretty safe one too thank goodness!
    We get a place in a little shady spot and the whole site is set on the cliff side so there’s lots of climbing up and down to get anywhere.

    We heck out the swimming pool and follow the sign for beach. It’s more of a rock outcrop at the bottom of the cliff but the sea looks good and Nic obvsioualy jumps straight in (even though he has no dry clothes with him!). After a lovely bbq dinner, the children just about make t to sleep in time for some amazing fireworks to start over Sorrento. Luckily neither of them wakes and we both get to see the display...but wonder if this will happen every night?!

    We decide to get the bus to Sorrento on our first day. A lovely town set on top of the cliffs, great views of Vesuvious, Naples and beyond but very busy and touristy. We find a beautiful rose garden, and the views down from the sheer edges of the cliffs are brilliant - coen still likes to test us though, threading his foot through the rails to see if his sandal might fall off and fall 100m down never to be seen again.

    It’s only 10.30 but we’ve been in Italy long enough to want a pizza for a snack, the only place to get one at this time of morning is an English pub and we find some ice cream to top it off. We find a piazza to eat while the children take up their favourite pastimem of chasing pigeons which always entertains the locals.

    It is getting pretty hot so we want to get out of the town before Amelia melts, after a brief sprint we make it to the bus in time and head back through the Sorrento traffic to the campsite.

    We get back in tome for another sea swim (children couldn’t be tempted in even after us donning their wetsuits and life jackets and lugging a hold-all (?!?!) full of Amelia’s soft toys down to see the sea) but they enjoy a splash in he swimming oool instead.

    The following day we catch the local bus from Sorrento around the coast to Positano and Amalfi. We get tickets and wait in a very hot queue, the first bus has standing rolom only so the driver suggests we get the next. The next we get seats but can’t believe how many people are packed into the coaches, the aisles and steps all full of people. This is the coast we’d been warned not to drive along in the Moho. And it doesn’t take long for us to see why. The roads are fairly narrow, extremely bendy and so busy. Mainly with buses. Carrying tourists back and forth. There’s a lot of horn beeping much to Coen’s delight, although the heat and windy roads soon send him to sleep. It doesn’t seem we have to go for but it does take a long time on these roads, having to stop at every bend to check what’s coming.

    We arrive in Positano (where there is no parking at all, thank goodness we took the bus) and get some amazing views over the town and coast, although with Coen still asleep in my arms, I’m thinking this could get a bit hot, but luckily he wakes at the top of the hill. We wind down the tiny paths lined with little boutique shops and art galleries and come out at the bottom on a beach. This is one of the hottest days we’ve had so far and the dark sand is making it feel hotter. We roam around the town tucked so tightly against the cliff that it’s hard to imagine why people settled here originally. The buildings climb up the cliffs, and are coloured different shades, with some beautiful churches and temple like buildings set amongst them, it’s very picturesque. We want to make it across to Amalfi as well so make our way back up the narrow paths (with Amelia hunting out every bit of shade...thank goodness it hasn’t been so hot so far in our trip, she melts at the first sight if there isn’t a pool or sea to jump into).

    We wait for what seems ages in the piping heat, luckily we squeeze the children into shade under the busy bus shelter and after watching the dramatic driving close up for a while, finally the bus pulls up, and we shimmy along the windy, narrow, crazy roads to reach Amalfi - witnessing a City Sightseeing bus crash into the protruding cliff along the way.

    Amalfi seems slightly larger, still set in the cliffs, but with a larger port, little streets shooting back into the cliffs, and along the beach front and we find food - the children’s favourite squid rings (although Coen has a paddy as he wants to hold them - at 8euros for a tiny cone full, that’s not happening), some good pasta and amazing italian cream cake.

    We get some great views back over the town and cliffs, as well as the beautiful yachts that’s have docked here as we walk around the port walls and then head back to a very long queue for the bus. The first one eventually fills, but again there is only standing room so we wait for the next one and head back. It is busy and warm and windy on the hour and a half journey back, and Coen thinks it’s time for another nap. We manage to get off a stop early to reach our campsite sooner but this does involve a rather hair-raising walk back along the road narrow, windy road.

    After another lovely bbq, we pack up ready to reach Pompei in the morning...
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  • Day 53

    The city lives on...Pompeii

    May 23, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We’ve decided that Naples isn’t for us, and that climbing Mt Vesuvius on a hot day is unfair on Amelia, we can see it really well and wrk is Pompeii will be really interesting.

    We can park right next to the entrance and decide to take the pushchair for Coen...about 3 minutes in we realise this is not going to work with the huge cobble stone streets - the deepest gaps between each large cobble stone meaning you can get 5 metres in about 30 minutes! Nic runs back to get the back pack and we roam through the old city.

    It’s busy but we imagine a place like this is busy EVERY day. With the tickets we got a really good guide book telling us about each area of th town and what here is to see in each place. The full city tour would take about 8hrs, so we highlight the bits we really want to see and wander through. It really is amazing to see this place, preserved so well, with some really recent discoveries too. To see exactly how people used to live almost 2000 years ago, the buildings they used to live, work and play in, the stunning amphitheatre (famous for its Pink Floyd concert/film), and the casts of the people who died trying to escape is beyond amazing.

    All is going well and Amelia is just about finding enough shade down the long straight cobbled streets, we’ve bought enough snacks to get them back, but as I (Sarah) turn a corner my foot wedges down one of the cobble holes and I twist my ankle pretty badly. Some lovely English men stop to help and offer to half carry me back to the entrance, but I decide (through embarrassment) that I can hobble. When we get to be main square we see some paramedics and decide to ask for some ice to help the pain, they speak no English but more embarrassingly decide to half carry (half drag!) me through the busy main square to their first aid room, where they wrap my ankle in a compression and offer me an injection in my bum (I decline due to the lack of translation available, but accept the single paracetamol they offer instead).

    We get back to the van (a little slower than planned) grabbing a take away pizza on the way, and head off to do a (painful) food shop before deciding to see if we can make our next stop in one go. We plan to visit friends (Kat an Fabio) who are in Italy, so if the children make it through this long journey, we’ll get a few days of not much driving and they can see the other English children for an extra day.

    By the time we arrive, my ankle has fattened up, and the rain has set in, but luckily we are in good hands now and meet are friends at a lovely, most importantly, local pizza restaurant, where we order our first sample of truffles (which Coen LOVES!) and some other delish pasta, washed down with some kind of Italian liquor (to help the ankle of course!), and we meet some of Kat’s family and Amelia enjoys joining in with the children (English children at last, for real 4yr old conversation!)

    Kat and Fabio have also kindly arranged for us to stay in the hotel car park for as long as we stay with them, so we head back and find out their plans for the weekend...
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  • Day 54

    Abruzzi NP with friends

    May 24, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Time with friends
    Kat and (Italian husband) Fabio have travelled over from the UK and we’ve arranged to meet in Abruzzo with their children (and about 30 of their family members on their annual family reunion!) where they both used to live (Fabio is from Sulmona).

    We arrive a little earlier than planned so gatecrash their Friday night family meal at one of their favourite local pizzerias. We get our first taste of truffles (which Coen LOVES!) and some other delicious pasta, and a medicinal shot of some italian liquor (to help the anklle pain!). Add some rain and I’m now hobbling around the slippery cobbles in flip flops (my trainers wouldn’t fit comfortably).

    As the hotel they are staying at belongs to their friend, they’ve let us stay in the car park for the weekend.

    The children are so excited to be in the company of so many other English children for a whole weekend!

    Kat has arranged a full itinerary for her family and we are invited to join in while we are there. We head back to the centre of Sulmona in the morning for market day, have a drink in their favourite ‘pub’ (which we would not have even noticed was there without them), and the children all enjoyed ice cream (#1) in the sun.

    We then head out to Kats favourite restaurant for a pre-arranged meal (we are loving not having to think about where we’re going, what we’re eating, and how to get there - as we manage to squeeze into their convoy of cars with children on our laps!). We would DEFINITELY never have found this place on our own, I’m not even sure I know where it was, but it was a beautiful place set amongst the hills, surrounded by poppy fields with a grand back drop of mountains. The food starts to arrive, and we get more truffle pasta and some other delicious local dishes, including a speciality pink trout.

    Next up we visit an old castle set on top of the hillsides with beautiful views all around, and the children have a giant game of hide and seek inside the castle walls and we relax/hobble up to the top to see how far we can see.

    We then have to split as the convoy of cars are going in two directions and there is not enough space for all of us to go in one direction!! So Nic and Coen head back to the hotel to explore the grounds, find the ponds and tractors, have a little rest and some food, whilst Amelia and I tag along to visit Fabio’s family. Amelia is in her absolute element when she sees their little cousin’s beautiful bedroom, and box full of dolls with shoes and everything!! The children play in the garden while we sit and relax with a drink, and then get fed more amazing Italian food prepared by Fabio’s brother. It’s so good that I have to ask if I can take a doggy bag back for Nic as I feel bad eating delicious food with him!

    The next day is the wine festival - the reason for visiting at this time of year, La Cantina. Unfortunately it is possibly Italy’s wettest day of the year so far! Still hopeful, we board the coach at 9am, flip flops on, and head out to the first stop. At this point we realise, having got on the coach so early, this is going to be early wine drinking, even by Italian standards!

    The first stop gives us a wine glass and necklace carrier to hang it in and a grand tour of the wine ‘factory’ with huge cylinders and barrels on wine in the basement as far as the eye can see. We get a glass of red and white at each stop - however, we’ve quickly realised at this first stop that the sommelier at the white wine table is not taking our tickets, so naturally we go back for a few more glasses...and now a little less sober than when we arrived, and with soaking wet children who have been rolling about in the fountains, we board the coach for the next stop.

    Another wine tour to show us how the wine is made and more wine and hog roast, this stop also has a DJ playing in a beautiful yard and we all imagine how beautiful it would be if we were stood in glorious sunshine instead of muddy puddles! Still the foods good, the wines good, the kids are happy....

    We take a vote on the bus and decide to do a slightly shorter tour due to the weather.

    We stop at two more stops, one where we get some tasty Italian food, but have to fight the crowds to get some wine, and another set on top of beautiful rolling hills, vineyards spreading below and a beautiful slate deck where the festival area sits. Unfortunately, rain, slate and flip flops aren’t a good combo, so it feels a bit like an hour of drinking wine on an ice rink to me, but the children find some big colourful blocks to have some dance offs on, and we get unlimited wine to finish the tour.

    Back to the bus, and we head back to the hotel where our children get their first bath in 7 weeks and we eat A LOT of pizza for our final night with Kat and her wonderful family.

    It’s fair to say that we all thoroughly enjoyed our weekend here, a place we would not have visited had it not been to meet friends, but also for the normal English chat we got (of course, Nic loves to talk, so definitely made the most of having no language barriers), the children to be able play so nicely with other children, and we left the hotel so thankful for the weekend’s hospitality, a break from the norm, and time with friends xx
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  • Day 57

    When in Rome

    May 27, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We arrive in Rome with drizzle still coming down but find the very central campsite to be pretty good with a little tourist info booth on site, and a REALLY helpful lady who guides us on where to go and how to get there...anything to make the big cities easier is hugely appreciated by us!!

    Our first full day and we get the train as instructed into Rome. The walk to the station is a little hairy, as we are bacaly walkin on a dual carriageway, often with no pavement, sometimes pavement too narrow for the buggy, but we make it in one piece after a quick snack stock up meaning we can fill the children up on strawberries on the train ride. The only downside here’s is that he stations don’t have lifts we we have to carry the pushchair up and down the stairs each time (on a badly sprained ankle...ouch!).

    We are aiming to cover west of the river today so head to St. Peter’s piazza. I am trying to avoid all the people trying to sell queue jump tickets that the lady warned us about, but Nic apparently didn’t hear her give this warning and, what with his love of chatting to people, we get stuck a few times before I explain that we have to politely say no!

    We find a lovely little piazza to have a pit stop snack in and luckily there are pigeons so obviously Coen is entertained with chasing them, which makes Amelia chase them and consequently most of the piazza is entertained as well.

    Next we make our way to St Peters piazza. Our first look at what Rome is about and we are pretty impressed!! We decided that we can’t do the tours, it’s going to be two long days and a lot of miles for little legs so adding in any extra 2 hr tours that will not be entertaining for the children is not fair and will consequently not be much fun or informative for us. Luckily the campsite tourist lady lent us a book that fills us in on a bit of history!

    As rain was forecast we take our ‘big’ umbrella - which Amelia is now using for shade as it gets hotter, however being Rome, most streets were packed with people and this meant most people were having to do so crazy manouvres to keep their eyeballs as she strolled past them oblivious to the spikes being at everyone else’s eye level. Luckily we quickly manage to find a brand new pink umbrella which was much more Amelia’s size and she wanders the streets happily shaded and everyone else gets to keep their faces!

    We had seen a little lookout highlighted on the map so head towards it; the map was a little vague though so we spend a good half an hour trying to find the highest point that would give us the view...luckily a local points us in the direction and we get a great panoramic of Rome and it’s wonderful buildings, statues and the old city within the Roman Forum. We wander back along the river, taking in the amazing buildings, castles and bridges. It’s quite breathtaking to see the beauty of this place, we are not ‘city’ people but it’s hard not to be in awe of these Roman creators. After haggling with a lookie-lookie for a new selfie stick, and a quick go on the merry-go-round for Amelia and Coen, we find the pizza place that was recommended by the campsite (more amazing pizza?!) and head out into a beautiful piazza to let the children run around, chase the bubble man and pigeons, and then figure out which train to catch home.

    The total perk of this stop was that taking Coen to check in at reception meant they gave a us a key to the ‘nursery’ - we didn’t know what this was but turned out it was a little baby room with a FREE washer/dry - cue 7 loads of washing - 1st machine wash in 8 weeks and we did not leave a single thing unwashed! The showers also have classical music on loop 24/7 so we always felt quite relaxed after using them!

    The next day we take the train again to cover the other side of the city. Another slightly risky walk to the station, and we head towards the mighty Colosseum - testing our map reading skills on a very dodgy map with only half the streets on, luckily we end up in a tiny piazza with an amazing church with the most beautiful paintings on the ceilings, angel statues all around the place and beautiful gold figures high up in the ceilings - a real treat to see this art as we were not going to the Sistine due to the queues! Also, as there is a sign asking to keep noise down as there are services going on...Coen wants to test the acoustics of the building by shouting ‘ECHO’ ‘ECHO’! Aargh.

    Eventually we see the mammoth structure of the Colosseum towering above the crowds. Definitely the busiest place we’ve been, we realise that Amelia has been able to wander fairly freely until this point - cue a quick talk about ‘getting lost in a city’!! The sights are really quite amazing, we stand and wander how these huge structures were built in an age before machines.

    It gets pretty warm so we bargain with Amelia for an ice-cream in return to walk a little further while Coen has a kip. More amazing statues, more palaces, church’s, the Trevi fountain (how many others mistake it for the tiny one around the corner?! Lucky we carried on looking!), and finally the Spanish steps, where we see a beautiful Italian bride and groom celebrating just as the rain starts. We then decide as we’re passing, that we should get another pizza from the same place as the first was so good...just a quick snack to give the children the energy to get home!!

    We are all pretty physically drained from two days walking around Rome, but have really enjoyed the wonder of this place.

    Another highlight for the children was the little golf buggy on the campsite that picked up us and took us to and from our pitch, waving at Nic as we drove past (who walked with the pushchair).

    Onwards and upwards literally now as we leave Rome, dubiously following Nic’s suggestion of a campsite on a very narrow spit...
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