• Seagulls on the Run
Aug – Oct 2018

SOTR-Europe bound

Our Adventure b4 Dementia Europe bound trip 2018
A whirl wind trip to 7 countries: Croatia, Bosnia, Italy incl San Marino and Vatican City, England and Wales.
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  • Trip start
    August 31, 2018
  • 24 hours later.....

    September 2, 2018 in England ⋅ 19 °C

    So after 24 hrs of traveling we have finally arrived at Manchester airport - our home for the next 20 hrs before we set off again for Croatia. First, a much needed coffee, then a swim and relax before catching up with my family - 3444 days since I last saw my mum. Another fun fact - it’s been 5285 days since Johnny was last in Manchester 😳

    It’s was so awesome catching up with my family for lunch and celebrating an early Father’s Day with my dad. Now off to bed for some much needed sleep before a 3am start tomorrow
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  • Dubrovnik

    September 3, 2018 in Croatia ⋅ 24 °C

    Let the Europe adventure begin ....

    Day 1
    Arrived in Dubrovnik and found our apartment ‘Studio Tony’ up lots (and lots) of stairs, met our host and was treated to some home made liquor, meandered around the old town, walked the walls and did a little wine tasting- great start.Read more

  • Dubrovnik and Lokrum Island

    September 4, 2018 in Croatia ⋅ 26 °C

    Day 2
    No sign of the overnight storm: rain, thunder and lightening, when we got up early to see the old town before the crazy crowds.

    Fun fact - one day in July found 30,000 people walking the walls of the Old Town.

    Spent the afternoon at Lokrum- home of peacocks, the Dead Sea and the Iron Throne, and ended the day with a Croatian BBQ dinner with our host Tony.
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  • Dubrovnik

    September 5, 2018 in Croatia ⋅ 25 °C

    Day 3
    Johnny decided it would be a good idea to run up to the top of the cable car, so I left him to that and had a chilled out morning.

    Spent the afternoon exploring outside the city walls and then onto the cable car for some spectacular views. Whilst up there we hiked the trail from Fort Imperial to Fort Strinčjera, visited the war museum and watched the sun set before returning to enjoy an awesome fish platter.Read more

  • Road trip: Croatia to Bosnia

    September 6, 2018 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ 27 °C

    Day 4
    Final breakfast in our beautiful garden haven before saying a sad goodbye to Dubrovnik and picking up a hire car for the road trip to Mostar, AND we scored an upgrade to an Audi SUV 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻.
    Dubrovnik: 33.8kms, 46,703 steps in total.

    In true Horrox style we did not follow the expected ‘tourist’ route to Mostar but took a detour through the remote baron hillside of Bosnia and Herzegovina, on extremely narrow roads that needed more than a little attention and not so suitable for a brand new ‘large’ Audi. Stopped off at Kravice Waterfall for a quick refreshing dip in the freezing cold water before arriving in Mostar late afternoon and realising the upgrade to the Audi has disadvantages as we tried to navigate the extremely narrow one way street system to find our accomodation 😳.

    ‘Villa’ Globus is not quite what I was expecting- hopefully it will be better than first impressions. Headed to Stari Grad- the old town for some much needed food and drink before exploring our new home for the next few days. First impressions- love the Turkish influences and the Islamic Call to Prayer that can be heard throughout the old town.
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  • Mostar

    September 7, 2018 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ 27 °C

    Day 5
    Despite Mostar having done much to rebuild after the recent wars - there remains much evidence of the destruction with bullet holes in buildings still occupied those left derelict, which we saw this morning we went on the hunt for the sniper tower- the former bank that was used due to its location and height.

    Then spent a leisurely afternoon watching some very mad people in the Red Bull Cliff Diving Comp - even spotting an Aussie or two.
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  • Mostar, Blagaj and Pocitelj

    September 8, 2018 in Bosnia and Herzegovina ⋅ 29 °C

    Day 6
    Out early to see the old town without the hoards of day visitors, and bought some home made pomegranate brandy from a very nice man in the market.

    Being the adventurous types we are we bravely took the car out for a road trip to Blagaj to see the Vrelo Bune ( start of the Bune river) and Blagaj Tekke (dervish monastery) and then took the ‘non tourist’ route to the fortified village of Počitelj - home to approx 100 people.

    Returned for lunch on the river watching the mad men and women dive from the bridge 27m to the River Neretva below.

    Spent the late afternoon on the balcony listening to the thunder of an approaching storm taste testing fig liquor, pomegranate brandy and the hosts first attempt at home made sherry whilst eating Turkish delight and baklava
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  • Road trip: Bosnia to Croatia

    September 9, 2018 in Croatia

    Day 7
    After a last Bosnian coffee and Turkish tea we said goodbye to Mostar and headed 370km north west to our next destination.
    Mostar: 24 kms, 34,687 steps in total.

    This time we took sensible route and took the motorway towards Korenica E65/A1- allegedly Europe’s most beautiful motorway, it certainly had some dramatic landscapes and a 5km long tunnel.

    We stopped off at Krka waterfalls for lunch and a refreshing dip in the warm waters (along with hoards of others) before continuing on our journey. We had an unexpected stop to render assistance to a couple who had driven off the road on a bend, flipped and landed in the neighbouring field - we missed a head on collision by a matter of 60 seconds 😳.

    Our home for the night is in Korenica- a small village just outside of Plitvice Lakes, and the apartment is just stunning- something you would expect to find in a chic apartment building in Melbourne. We were greeted by our young host who had prepared cake and champagne for our arrival. Finished the day with a great pizza in a local restaurant, at 700 m above sea level- it’s the first time I have felt chilly and in need of a jacket 😳. Looking forward to an early’ish night in a soft comfy bed ready for an early start tomorrow
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  • Plitvice Lakes, Skradin and Split

    September 10, 2018 in Croatia ⋅ 27 °C

    Day 8
    Cool 10 degrees as we headed to Plitvice Lakes - and the area had a definite ‘alpine’ feel, with road side stalls selling cheese, honey and strudel and the steep pitched roofs and huge wood piles indicating it must get very cold in winter. It was definitely a good idea to get the the lakes early- we chose a route that took in the whole area- upper/lower lakes, boat and train ride covering 10km in 3.5hrs (tagged as a 4-6hr walk)- as we were leaving the masses were arriving.
    Lakes: 10 kms 15,831 steps in total

    Stopped in the beautiful little town of Skradin for a walk around its narrow paved streets and a little lunch overlooking the harbour before heading on to Split to find our home for the next 2 nights.

    Our host greeted us with a bottle of bubbles and home made candid almonds and orange, which we enjoyed chilling in our little terrace garden. Had the best shower EVER- with massage, lights and music playing -and then headed out for dinner and drinks. Met up with a couple from Portsmouth and spent the evening chatting over a bottle of wine.

    Looking forward to exploring more tomorrow
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  • Hunting Daenerys dragons

    September 11, 2018 in Croatia ⋅ 29 °C

    Day 9
    As Johnny went for an early morning run I meandered around the old town before the crowds descended upon it.

    Dropped off the car and wondered back into town, via the shores of the Adriatic, with frequent ‘refreshment’ stops. Lunch at a little trattoria in a laneway off the old town and shared the most awesome seafood spaghetti and stuffed calamari with black pasta. Visit to the cellars of the Diocletian Palace on the look out for dragons.

    Later we travelled the old town one wine bar at a time enjoying local wines, cheeses and meats.
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  • Goodbye Croatia....

    September 12, 2018 in Croatia ⋅ 29 °C

    Day 10
    Very early start to climb the lots and lots of steps to Marjan Hill to watch the sunrise, then a walk along the trails to see beautiful little churches and the hermitage caves cut into the rock face.

    Today we say a sad goodbye to Split, having completed a multi day ultra (115 km) through Croatia and Bosnia Herzegovina .
    Split 40.9km 55897 steps in total.

    We have loved Split- it”s Mediterranean feel, with the olives, olive oil, seafood, fish, fresh fruit and veg and of course fabulous wine, and definitely the place to visit if you have a love for endless steps

    Last coffee in our quiet garden oasis with our host, then a mooch around town before we head off to Italy on the overnight ferry for the next part of our adventure.
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  • .......hello Italy

    September 13, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 22 °C

    Day 11
    Buongiorno Italy.
    We slept our way across the Adriatic to arrive in Ancona to a wonderful sunrise. Stopped for an espresso en route to picking up our hire car. Upgraded again- this time to a monster Peugeot 508 wagon- let’s hope we don’t have any narrow roads to navigate 😳.Read more

  • Cagli

    September 13, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 25 °C

    Day 11
    Getting pretty good now at the toll road system in Europe and easily found our way out of Ancona and to our new home just outside the small town of Cagli - a 16th century converted chapel at San Cristoforo. Our first attempt at Italian in the market and we came away with bread, ham and salad for lunch- success!

    After its mid day ‘siesta’ we popped into Cagli and sat in a cafe people watching and was amazed to find that for a very small town it had a cathedral, a monastery with chapel with a painting of St Justine of Padua, and 4 other churches-well that’s all we managed to find!

    Later we chilled on our awesome patio overlooking the garden with its vines, fig and assorted fruit trees and distant mountains whilst sipping wine as the sun set and we were treated to an awesome stary sky.

    Think we are going to like it here.
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  • Urbino

    September 14, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 25 °C

    Day 12
    Road trip to the walled city of Urbino, birthplace of Raphael. Visited the Ducal Palace and San Domenic Church, unfortunately the cathedral was closed for restoration works following the earthquake a few years ago.

    Later Johnny went for a run to Castle Frontone and I chillaxed in the garden with a glass of bubbles and a book
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  • Cagli and Furlo Gorge

    September 15, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 25 °C

    Day 13
    Awoke to the sun peeping through the shutters and the start of another beautiful morning in the Italian countryside.

    Lazy start to the day with a leisurely breakfast on the patio before heading off to follow in the footsteps of the ancient Romans along via Flamina- one of the oldest and most important of the great roads built by Rome and laid in 220 BC, passing through the breathtaking scenery of Furlo Gorge, including the tunnel built in 26AD.

    Visited a few churches before stopping in the grounds of the medieval abbey of San Vincenzo, and with our minimal Italian and their minimal English managed to order lunch of piadina- local filled flat bread.

    Later we went in search of the ‘ Gran Canyon’ and other rocky riverside swimming holes just outside Cagli and found a little secluded area for a refreshing dip.

    Finished the day sat on the garden swing seat, listening to Steele Dan (thanks Mervyn) drinking local vino Rosso.
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  • Cagli and Gubbio

    September 16, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 24 °C

    Day 14
    Today we headed for the beautiful medieval hill town of Gubbio - archaeological research shows there were settlements in the area dating back to the middle Palaeolithic Age (around 100,000 years BC) 😳. We took the cable car to Mount Ingino - 908m above sea level to take in the view of the town below and the Apennines of Umbria and the Marche, and look at the Basilica of St Ubaldo- whose body is kept inside the church. Visited the Roman Theatre (1BC), Palazzo dei Consoli -to look at the 7 bronze Iguvium (Gubbio) tablets (3rd-1st century BC) and the churches of San Domenica and St Agostino. Just a little bit of history!

    Johnny, feeling a little trail envy looking at all the SCC 100 pics, set out in the afternoon to Monte Morcia (1,223m) but the weather got the better of him, as we witness our first rain then storm, and he only ran to Monte Campifobio (920m).

    For dinner we took the recommendation of a local restaurant renowned for its carbonara and managed to get the last table as it was fully booked out with local families and the soccer team- had fun picking out the Kalebh, Gallo, Izzy, Ellul....
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  • Cagli, Frasissi Caves and Frontone

    September 17, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 23 °C

    Day 15
    With an overcast start to the day we decided to cross country to explore the Grotte di Frasassi (discovered in 1971), unfortunately the pics do not do it justice- it was amazing and the chambers inside huge.

    We stopped ‘off the tourist path’ for lunch and with no menu to refer to we eventually sat down, amongst the Italian families, to tagliatelle al ragu and vino Rosso.

    Finished the day visiting the castle at Frontone, which you can see from our accomodation, taking in the wonderful views of the surrounding countryside.

    Spent the evening in our cosy chapel as as thunder and lightening surrounded us.
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  • La Pieve: our little chapel

    September 18, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 20 °C

    It’s our last full day and I am going to miss it here at our beautiful little chapel at San Cristoforo.I am going to miss the quietness and the unpolluted sky’s, the complete darkness at night and the sun streaming in from the shutters in the morning painting the bedroom walls bright yellow, sitting out on the patio with a morning coffee contemplating the day ahead and on the garden swing seat in the evening with a glass of wine reflecting on our adventures, the beautiful unspoilt countryside currently not greatly affected by tourism, the helpful people who speak very little English but are happy to try to understand our minimal Italian, the beautiful wine and basic uncomplicated food made with local ingredients, the fact the shops shut each day at mid afternoon, Sunday and odd other days- although it has been a challenge coming from an almost 23/7 world. It reminds me so much of country France so much so that occasionally I have found myself dropping the odd French word into a ‘conversation’. I am not going to miss the plague of crickets that make their way indoors and everywhere in the evening, only to disappear in the morning. Love that we have been staying in a place with so much history.

    For those interested in the history: the little research done on the area has found flint tools in the surrounding fields thought to date back to the Stone Age and in 1934 the local parish priest Don Biago Paoletti discovered 3 tombs with Etruscan style ceramics dating from the 3rd century BC. The earliest records referring to San Cristoforo are in titles dating back to 1290 and appears to have taken its name from a fortification that earlier stood on the site. The present church was built by priest Don Angelo Amatori in 1727, and in his description refers to ‘ a washbowl in stone cut and decorated by myself’ which can be found in the current bedroom. The last priest to live at San Cristoforo was Don Buagio Paoletti and after his death in 1942 the chapel was served by the priest from the nearby parish if Saint’ Angelo in Mariano. The last mass was celebrated around 1970 and the small church school on the site was also closed in the 1970’s.

    The current owners, and our hosts Peter and Richard, bought San Cristoforo in 1988 and began the slow restoration of the whole complex, maintaining lots of the original features. Unfortunately the front of La Pieve and some of the La Casetta was destroyed in the earthquake a couple of years ago and had to be rebuilt.
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  • Cagli and Adriatic Coast

    September 18, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 24 °C

    Day 16
    Headed to the coast for a dip in the Adriatic and found a beautiful sandy spot just between Fano and Pesaro where you can wave to the trains passing by. The water was so warm and the beach very quiet but I expect it would be madness in the height of summer with all the sun loungers and parasols lined up. Had a beautiful lunch at Oasis Beach Bar and sat people watching with a glass of wine. Left the beautiful clear skies and headed inland to a storm - can’t believe 45 minutes earlier we were sunning ourselves on the beach.

    Johnny went for his last run in the Italian countryside to Molleone and it’s derelict church and cemetery.

    Ended the day with a farewell meal at Il Poggio, awesome pasta and pizza followed by limoncello

    Countryside Italy: 34km 48, 035 steps - lazy few days 😳
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  • Fabriano

    September 19, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 23 °C

    Day 17
    Said a sad goodbye to our little church and our hosts Richard and Peter and set off to Fabriano to catch the train to Rome. We were rewarded with a wonderful sunrise, and although we saw very few cars we did see quite a few deer.

    Settled on what we hoped was the correct train we sat back and watched the countryside fly past the window.
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  • Rome

    September 19, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 23 °C

    Day 17
    Arrived at Stazione Termini-Wow- had to walk over a km just to get out! And it was pouring so with no chance of a taxi we decided to walk the 4km to our accomodation -in the rain, with cases, in the centre of Rome, with lots of people, with cobble stones - WHO’S STUPID IDEA WAS THAT! Eventually we arrived and was greeted by very narrow rickety wrought iron steps to our 3rd floor teeny weeny apartment- our home for the next few days.

    Quick change then out to meet Sarah the host of our 4 hr cycle tour around the city- we started in daylight and finished in the dark, took in some of the main sites, some lesser known, the narrow streets of Trastevere, learnt some of the history of Rome, sampled granita di caffe and aperitivo and looked through a key hole to see 3 countries at the same time: Italy, Malta and the Vatican City. Learnt the best places to eat and drink and where to avoid and how to drink from the fountains like a local - an awesome introduction to Rome.
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  • Vatican City

    September 20, 2018 in Vatican City ⋅ 23 °C

    Day 18
    Got up early and breakfasted like the Italians, with Caffè and croissant stood at the counter, before heading over the bridge to see St Peters Square before the thousands descended upon it for the papal audience with Pope Francis.

    Having pre booked tickets to the Vatican museum we were able to walk straight in and start what was to become a 3 hour visit with over 8kms of Vatican treasures. It seems wrong that the Catholic Church could acquire such a vast collection of treasures including tapestries, ceramics, statues, and artwork with paintings by masters like Raphael, De Vinchi, Van Gogh, Bacon....but if they didn’t a lot of these would have been lost or damaged over time and definitely not accessible to the general public.

    The walls and ceilings were amazing and my neck ached from looking up so much. It was interesting listening to the Americans who were complaining about the time and distance taken to cover their tours and just wanted to see ‘the big church thing’.

    Words cannot describe the Sistine Chapel, and it wasn’t possible to take pictures inside, but the frescoes and Michelangelo’s ceiling were amazing, and we were awarded by a prayer and blessing.

    The pictures we took do not do it justice.
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  • Rome

    September 20, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 22 °C

    Day 18
    The queue to get into St Peter’s Basilica was huge so we gave that a miss and headed back to the historical centre to wonder the streets, stopping at the Pantheon- were Raphael and the 2 Italian Kings are buried , Trevi fountain and Spanish Steps - both so crowded that we will try to visit again either early morning or late evening.Read more

  • Rome

    September 21, 2018 in Italy ⋅ 27 °C

    Day 19
    Had coffee and breakfast on the go as we wondered through the market at Campo de Fiori before meandering and finding ourselves at the Basilica of Santa Maria in Aracoeli and the Santo Bambino of Aracoeli.

    Most of the day was spent wandering around the Colosseum before heading home for a quick change, then back out for a ‘bubbles’ tasting experience at Divin Ostia wine bar only to be caught out by another bloody thunderstorm 😳.
    Tasted and learnt about 5 different bubbles: 4 Italian and 1 champagne, and found I had expensive taste as my favourite was the Rose Champagne - and raised a glass to Tracy for her 50th birthday .

    Gave the Trevi fountain another, go but it was still as ridiculously busy so headed back via Piazza Navona and for dinner and THE most amazing pasta at Pasquino Pizzeria.

    Little over the rain now, it’s worse than Melbourne for the 4 seasons in 1 day 😳
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