Senegal
Central Dakar

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    • Day 97

      Welcome to Dakar, Senegal

      March 18, 2023 in Senegal ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

      New-to-us Port #21.

      The countries that are along the west coast of Africa were once all one country known as French West Africa. I have no clue if those states were as poor or as lacking in infrastructure then as they are now as independent countries. We saw evidence of it everywhere we went, yet smiles were in evidence everywhere as well.

      We understand that building the tourism infrastructure takes time and are willing to accept the sightseeing challenges and the substandard infrastructure we’ll be facing in West Africa as we continue south along the coast of the continent. It’s all part of the experience … even if we have a hard time understanding or accepting what our eyes behold.

      We arrived at our berth on time at 8:00a, but as CD Ray predicted last night, it took a while for the ship to be cleared. We were on a tour organized by Sonia and Boris. The four of us waited patiently to meet up with our guide, Oumar, and driver, Malik. It was nearly 9:00a when we finally walked down the gangway. And soon we were on our way.

      Driving through Dakar, we left the city behind for the suburbs … and those for the rural towns and villages. Oumar regaled us with all kinds of tidbits about life in Senegal in general, pointing out things of interest along the way. That he was proud of his country was obvious from his comments.

      The drive — on a well-maintained, French-built highway — was smooth .. traffic flowing without hindrance. Around 10:15a, we entered the Bandia Game Reserve. But I am going to skip that part of our day for now as a separate footprint is warranted for that portion of the tour. This one will focus on the rest of the story and photos.

      After leaving the reserve, we passed through towns and villages that were a hive of activity, with some of the women dressed in colorful traditional dresses. People — men and women alike — didn’t much care to be photographed, so I limited my shutter clicking to some discreet photos as we sped by. Of course, sped is relative. Traffic was horrible here so it was more like inching along with spurts of speed. Oumar explained that this was the shortest route to our next destination. Nonetheless, by this time we were getting concerned about the timing for the rest of the tour.

      When we stopped at Chez Salim, where we had a buffet lunch, we discussed options. It was already 2:15p and we needed to be aboard by 5:30p. We decided to curtail some of the activities … such as the boat ride on the Pink Lake and the buggy ride on the dunes to check out the ocean.

      Pink Lake, known worldwide for its color, wasn’t pink today. What gives this lake, which has a high concentration of salt, the color that was missing today? Algae. Turns out that due to heavy rains in recent days, the lake is flooded. The extra water killed off the algae, taking the signature color of the water with it. Oumar pointed out structures that should have been on dry land to give us a sense of the extent of the flooding. He did say that the white foam edging the shoreline was a good sign that things would return to normal soon. But not soon enough for us to see.

      Upon leaving the lake, Malik took short cuts through neighborhoods to avoid the heavily congested rural traffic and got us to the highway in record time. This gave us a chance to do a quick drive through Dakar, with Oumar pointing out some of the landmarks. Then, it was back to the ship.

      Returning to Insignia, Mui and I took advantage of the veranda being in the shade to enjoy wine and snacks al fresco. Then, a quick dinner at the Terrace Café. Now, it’s nearly bed time. We have a 7:30a meet up tomorrow for our next port of call.

      By the way, the four-man security detail that will be with us through the HRA is onboard now. We saw them waiting to embark Insignia this morning. Yup … just like on RTW2017, there’s no possible way that they will be blending in with the general passenger profile to remain anonymous 😄
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    • Day 121

      Dakar, Senegal

      April 21 in Senegal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

      This was the saddest day of our entire trip. We visited the Island of Gorée. Neither Stacy nor I could sleep afterward as it was just heart wrenching to stand in the very spot where millions of Africans were sold into slavery. And, to realize that the masters quarters were located directly overhead of the slave’s prison was despicable. While difficult, we felt it was important to see and to remember.

      Goree Island is a small 45-acre island located off the coast of Senegal. It was developed as a center of the expanding European slave trade of Black African people.

      The first record of slave trading there dates back to 1536 and was conducted by the Portuguese, the first Europeans to set foot on the Island in 1444. The house of slaves was built in 1776. Built by the Dutch, it is the last slave house still in Goree and now serves as a museum. The island is considered a memorial to the Black Diaspora.

      An estimated 20 million Africans passed through the Island between the mid-1500s and the mid-1800s. During the African slave trade, Goree Island was a slave-holding warehouse, an absolute center for the trade of African men, women, and children. Millions of West Africans were taken against their will. These Africans were brought to Goree Island, sold into slavery, and held in the holding warehouse on the island until they were shipped across the Atlantic Ocean. They were sold in South America, the Caribbean, and North America to create a new world. The living conditions of the slaves on Goree Island were atrocious.

      Human beings were chained and shackled. As many as 30 men would sit in an 8-square-foot cell with only a small slit of the window facing outward. Once a day, they were fed and allowed to attend to their needs, but still, the house was overrun with the disease. They were naked except for a piece of cloth around their waists. They were put in a long narrow cell to lie on the floor, one against the other. The children were separated from their mothers. Their mothers were across the courtyard, likely unable to hear their children cry. The rebellious Africans were locked up in an oppressive, small cubicle under the stairs; while seawater was sipped through the holes to ease dehydration.

      Above their heads, in the dealer's apartments, balls and festivities were going on. But even more, poignant and heart-wrenching than the cells and the chains was the small "door of no return" through which every man, woman, and child walked to the slave boat, catching a last glimpse of their homeland.

      When the French abolished slavery in 1848, 6000 persons and 5000 former captives lived on the island. Designated by the United Nations Educational, Scientific Cultural Organization (UNESCO) to be a World Heritage Site, Goree Island in the 21st century retains and preserves all the traces of its terrible past.

      The main Slaves' House built in 1777 remains intact with cells and shackles; the Historical Museum, the Maritime Museum, residential homes, and forts are also standing. The Island today has about 1000 residents.
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    • Day 69–72

      Dakar/ Senegal

      March 6 in Senegal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Gestern Abend gab es eine Withe Night Party auf dem Schiff.
      Heute früh in Dakar angelegt. Nach einem zeitigen Frühstück haben wir mit dem Bus eine organisierte City Tour durch die Stadt unternommen.
      18 Uhr legen wir ab.Der nächste Stopp ist dann unser Zielhafen.
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    • Day 2

      Downtown Dakar

      July 25, 2023 in Senegal ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

      After Goree Island we visited took a walk thought the busy downtown area stopping at the train station and Kermel Market.

      It's super hot here so we stopped at the Pullman to relax and have drinks. We enjoyed the gorgeous views and much needed cools breezes from the patio.

      We opted to stay at one of the less expensive hotel option for our days in Dakar, but we both agreed that next time we choose one of the more upscale options like the Radisson Blu or the Pullman.
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    • Day 2

      Beluga

      July 25, 2023 in Senegal ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

      We met Sam's friend Moustapha for dinner at Beluga, a Peruvian inspired restaurant owned by friends of his. The food was excellent! Take a look at the menu here:https://groupelaparrilla.com/beluga.

      We had a great evening of conversation including all the best topics: religion, politics, health care, womans rights, business, life philosophy, family and more. We learned so much about Senegalese culture. He was the perfect embodiment of the Sengalese principal 'teranga', to welcome guests with generosity and hospitality.
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    Central Dakar

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