Serbia
Spomenik Knezu Mihailu

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    • Day 219

      Bedbugs

      August 7, 2015 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

      This saga all came about because I made a decision when I was annoyed, made a decision on the spot and had other people's opinions influencing my decisions. Three things that I try never ever do. And it has literally came back to bite me on the arse L

      When I arrived in Belgrade I came to my hostel, which to be fair was a good hostel. It is located right in the city, it was very modern, clean, open, but it just didn’t have an character or feel to it. Maybe because I’d spent almost 10 days with the same people in Macedonia, in hostels that had a homey feel, and I was missing it.

      But the door on our dorm wasn’t shutting and it let light in and people who wanted to drink had nowhere to sit and be loud, so it was all inside and the noise radiated. Very annoying!

      I made the decision when I arrived in Belgrade to cancel my trip to Slovenia as it was much cheaper here, not being on the Euro and I wanted more time out of the schengen Visa.

      But where to stay, where to stay. Having had a number of conversations in Macedonia with different people bragging that they didn’t stay in hostels because they wanted the local feel and generally made me feel like I was missing out, I decided to look into Airbnb. I’d had a great experience when I was in Lyon and thought it might be similar.

      And I’d only selected that hostel because guys in Macedonia recommended it to me, so I didn’t look too hard as it appeared that all of Belgrade was pretty booked out anyway. Wrong decision. Always do you own research and then make your decision.

      I found someone who had great reviews and decided that it would be ok to pay a little bit more to have my own room and bathroom. It was cheaper then what I would’ve paid for a 3 bed dorm in Slovenia.

      But then the hostel started to warm on me, the people weren’t that bad, I got used to the kitchen and made some good friends on the walking tour and pub crawl. But I couldn’t get out of the Airbnb booking, so I packed up my belongings on Thursday morning and headed to the suburbs.

      It was not a 10 min bus ride as per the listing it was 30 mins and I had to pay for public transport, something I’d over looked as in my booking. I wasn’t paying for when I stayed right in the city, so this was an additional cost I hadn’t accounted for.

      When I got to the place and lugged my bag up 3 flights of stairs. The house was modern and clean, the owners smoked in the house – a point I didn’t notice properly in my haste to book – and my room was up another flight of stairs.

      There wasn’t a welcoming feel that I’d had in Lyon. It was weird. And for two days all the owners did was sit on the couch, smoke and watch TV. These people were young, why they didn’t have jobs or a social life was beyond me.

      So I sooked most of the day regretting my decision to come out to the suburbs and watched back to back episodes of season 4 of The Great British Bake Off – fav new show!!

      I bought some groceries to prevent additional money spending, and cooked up a storm in the kitchen. All the while the owners sat behind me smoking and watching TV. Not very social at all.

      On Friday morning I woke up with renewed energy. I was going to see the Tesla Museum today and head into the city to look for a few cool bars I had looked up. But then I started to itch and I realised that I had lots of little welts over my legs, and as the day progressed they got bigger and more appeared and they were more itchy.

      I raised it with the owner who said it was mosquitos because of the heat. Mozzies don’t come out at the heat mate, they come out when it’s rained and it’s muggy and they have all these little waterholes to live in. And I hadn’t seen one mozzie here at all. It hadn’t rained and it wasn’t even muggy!

      Unconvinced I decided to sleep on the couch in my room, but no longer had I had 2 hours sleep and I was awake with more bites. So at 2am I packed up my bags and watched Bake Off whilst sitting on the floor and I eventually slept on the floor.

      I had breakfast in the morning, wrote a response to the host – who wasn’t even in the country at the time – that I was leaving because of the bites and could I have a refund for the night I wasn’t staying there and left.

      Having found a hostel at 2 in the morning for E7 I headed there. It was near my first hostel and I was immediately very happy to be back in the centre. I got a message from the host apologising and assuring me it wasn’t bedbugs, even though I saw a chemist the day before who said it probably was.

      She agreed to give me a refund for the Friday night, so I had to go back to the house and get the money, which was fine.

      My hostel on the other hand was not that fine. The bathrooms was soaking, the doors were so waterlogged on the shower that you couldn’t shut the door properly, which is not helpful when guys and girls all share the same shower room. There wasn’t enough lockers in my room for all the people, 12 beds, 10 lockers and the kitchen was just a microwave with a very cool kettle that was dirty as.

      On top of all that I feel like I have now wasted my time in Belgrade. Even though I probably would’ve been bored by the Saturday if I’d stayed in the city and spent the time wishing I’d done the Airbnb.

      So now, I’m itchy, I’ve a cream that isn’t really working and my ankle feels like it’s swelling. And I’m worried that because I haven’t had time to wash my clothes that the bugs might be in my bag.

      The irony of the whole thing is that I decided to stay in Serbia because it was cheaper. But between the Airbnb room, public transport, and creams for my leg I’ve probably spent the same amount if I’d gone to Slovenia as planned. So much for a cheap stay.

      Lesson of the day, don’t listen to other people, don’t make decisions when you’re annoyed and don’t make them on the spot. If I have to, draw up a very comprehensive pros and cons list – argh!!!!!

      The other thing I learnt is that if you don’t have a good host, it ends up being nothing more then a room to rent. All my questions about transport, things to see, what to do that I throw at all the hostels didn’t appear to be appropriate, which in the end is the whole point of staying with a local to get that inside knowledge. Sigh.
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    • Day 220

      Sometime in Belgrade

      August 8, 2015 in Serbia ⋅ 33 °C

      Apart from the crap time with accommodation situation I have had a really good time in Belgrade and would happily recommend it to anyone visiting the Balkans. It has a great nightlife, great food and lots of interesting history to learn about.

      I arrived on Tuesday afternoon and after striking up a conversation with a lady on the bus shuttle she walked me to my hostel. I think she was very excited to meet someone travelling really. She told me all about Belgrade, places to visit, where to buy a bus pass from if I wanted to travel around and food to eat.

      After checking in to my hostel I headed out looking for dinner and to get a feel of the town. There is a huge pedestrian area in the city with loads of restaurants and shops everywhere. Outside of the pedestrian area are lots of little bars and cafes. It reminds me of Melbourne.

      There is a famous street and area known as the old bohemian quarter, it's called Skadarlika. My guidebook says it's referred to as the Montmartre of Belgrade. It was a beautiful cobbled stone street, full of restaurants with character with live music and local food. After dinner I walked around for a bit before heading back to the hostel.

      On Wednesday I was up early to do the walking tour of the city and then planned to do the pub crawl tonight as it would be easier to get back to my hostel while I was based in the city instead of the suburbs.

      Thursday and Friday I was at the Airbnb place. It was out in the suburbs, but had great views from my room over the city. After spending most of the day chilling in my room I headed out to visit the Tesla museum. I walked from the house around the streets passing some lovely cafes, shops and a great green market.

      The Tesla Museum is quite small. There is a guided tour every hour in English. In the rooms are Tesla’s stuff, a story of his life, magazine articles and photographs of him, his equipment and his ashes.

      Some of the cool things I learnt were:

      - In the first Star Wars movie they used a Tesla coil to light up the light sabers

      - He was OCD and needed everything to be in 3, he even stayed in places that had something to do with it

      - He wanted to create free electricity, which is why JP Morgan pulled all funding from his project, he wanted to make money

      - He had papers destroyed in an accident & scientists today still can't work out what he was trying to do

      We also got to test out the coils. There was a really big one in which 500,000 volts go through and a small one with 100,000. For the first experiment 4 of us stood near the coil with light blubs. When the machine was turned on we were used as conducts as the bulbs light up!

      For the second experiment you could feel 100,000 volts go through you. There was a tall rod and when you hovered your hand over the top a line of electricity would jump out at you and stay consistent. It was awesome!

      The third experiment saw us use two guys as conductors for electricity. One held their hand over the rod, and the other held onto a light blub. When both of them held hands and turned the rod on, the electricity when through both boys and lit up the light.

      I really, really liked visiting here and would like to learn more about Mr Tesla. What a very interesting man.

      I continued my walk into town and passed by some Government buildings that looked as if they belonged in wartime. Which is exactly where they are from. After the latest wars in Serbia, it was decided to leave these buildings standing in their destroyed form, as a reminded of what war does. It was quite impressive.

      On Saturday I moved back to the city and into a new hostel. I took a bus ride out to Zemun, an area across the river, but it didn’t look that appealing so I just did the round trip and headed back to my hostel.

      Tonight I’m shouting myself a nice dinner. It’s European style food and there was supposed to be a live opera style thing happening, but as per most other cultural things, this doesn’t appear to take place over the summer.

      After dinner I walked around for a bit taking some last minute photos of the area, before finding myself at a cool bar I spotted in Skadarlika earlier in the week. I had a G&T and sat back and watched the evening disappear. A wonderful way to end my time in Belgrade.

      When in Belgrade:
      Opera restaurant - http://www.littlebay.rs/about.html
      Some cool photos - http://www.buzzfeed.com/sofijazz/42-reasons-you…
      Tesla Museum: http://www.tesla-museum.org/
      Walking Tour: https://www.facebook.com/FREEBELGRADEWALKINGTOURS
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    • Day 221

      A train journey to Budapest

      August 9, 2015 in Serbia ⋅ 33 °C

      Travelling via train in the Balkans is not really a recommended transport option. It is notoriously slow, rundown and just generally has a bad rap. When considered my options to getting from Belgrade to Budapest the only bus option was leaving at 9pm and arriving at 4am – not ideal.

      The whole reason I was travelling overland was so I could see the countryside. This would not be possible at night, nor by air. So I bought a train ticket.

      We left Belgrade at 11:10am. We were a small team of only 3 carriages I think and it was packed. We had a number of random stops for periods of time, but I just considered it all a part of the journey. I had a packed lunch, so it was fine.

      One of the things I have really wanted to see this summer is a field of sunflowers. Guess what? I got my wish! Sort of. All the way from Belgrade up to the Hungarian border were sunflower fields - thousands of them! It was awesome. Except that it was end of season and they were all looking down.

      Also I really wanted to stand in the fields, but oh well. It was pretty awesome. We made two border stops. One leaving Serbia and one entering Hungary. There was at least a hours time difference I reckon. Border control came on board and checked all of our documents.

      After the Hungarian check we got an announcement to say that we would be waiting at this stop for an hour. Why? No reason given.

      It was now 6pm and we were going to be 2 hours delayed getting into Budapest. So I jumped off the train, along with a few others and wandered into this sleepy little town looking for somewhere that might be open for food. It was Sunday evening, the chances were slim.

      However, after finding a couple of drinking holes we did find a random little shack that was serving pizza. And after having to use Google translate The Germans, Hungarian waitress and myself all had hot pizzas and drinks.

      But making a random stop always had the high-risk possibility of someone being left behind. As time was nearing for us to leave the teenage boy of the German family went to find a bin to put their pizza boxes in. He was off the train merely minutes and we started moving. The look of the parents' faces was quite funny.

      After a few tense minutes going back and forth, trying to get into 1<sup>st</sup> class – the door was locked, and the train speeding up, we eventually stopped. And then the lad appeared. He had scrambled onto the first class carriage as we were pulling away, I assume. I’m not sure how he got through the door to us, but he did and his mother was very, very relieved.

      When he returned our cabin let our cheers and claps. He looked quite relieved to be there. Nothing like being left behind in a random Hungarian town where no one speaks English. With our entertainment over, I watched the sun set and watched a movie. Ah train journeys in the Balkans are definitely an interesting affair.
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