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Japan Ski Trip 2017

February - March 2017
A 15-day adventure by Sam Read more
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  • Sam EvansJapan Ski Trip 2017
    Day 4

    Yudanaka - Nagano

    February 20, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    Following the great afternoon we had in Shibu Onsen we caught the local Nagano Dentetsu Line train back to Nagano from Yudanaka Station. The Nagano Dentetsu line is a private railway line so our JR East Passes do not work on this line. One of the great things about Japan is the availability of rail travel. Many of the lines are run by private companies. It is very easy to tell the difference between different rail companies as they depart from different platforms (or tracks as they are called in Japan) and you need to go through different gates to enter them.

    Yudanaka Station was about a 20-25 minute walk (probably around 2.5km) from Shibu Onsen. We managed to arrive with a few minutes before our train departed. The train was a small three carriages. Hot tip for future travel, if you sit at the front of the train you can see out the front as the driver sits above the car. We only discovered this when exiting the train at Nagano.

    I was very impressed with the ease in which we were able to navigate around and find our public transport. Despite most of the writing being in Japanese it is still quite obvious what is happening.    Read more

  • Sam EvansJapan Ski Trip 2017
    Day 5

    Togakushi

    February 21, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ -5 °C

    Wow. How great was Togakushi!

    We boarded the number 73 bus from outside Nagano Station (very easy to find, busses starting in 7 go from stop 7, busses starting in 6 go from platform 6 and so on - Brisbane could learn something from this). The bus took us north of Nagano up into the mountains which surround the city. The trip was scheduled to take an hour however was closer to two hours due to some traffic in Nagano and some cars sliding on the snowy roads up the mountains. Despite the delay, it was still an interesting ride seeing the countryside.

    We managed to get off at the right stop (Togakushi-Chusha) which was right at the middle shrine and next to the Information Centre. The gentleman at the Information Centre was very helpful (despite his lack of English) and we were soon on our way.

    Togakushi Shrine lies at the base of Mount Togakushi and consists of five shrines (Okusha, Chusha, Hokosha, Kuzuryusha and Hinomikosha). I had read about this sacred area and its amazing natural beauty. The five shrines are separated across a couple of kilometres of walking track and are steeped in a rich and mythical history.

    There had been significant snowfalls recently and it snowed all day we were there. As a result of the snow we discovered that many of the walking tracks were impassable and as such we decided to make tracks along the roads. The roads were very quiet (probably passed no more than 10 cars all day) and we enjoyed a peaceful walk for a few kilometres (though we were a bit concerned whether or not we were going the right way at first).

    We made our way along to the start of the walk to the fifth and uppermost shrine (Okusha Shrine). I had read a lot about the incredible walk to this shrine which is lined by 17th century majestic Cryptomeria trees. We gave it our best shot to get to this part of the walk however it soon became very difficult as we were sinking to knee deep snow every step. This made it exhausting and after about 500m we felt we had no choice but to turn around and go back.

    Despite this, where we made it to was still beautiful and well worth the walk. We did pass a few people with snow shoes and on cross country skis, so next time we try in winter I think we will hire some gear to make the walk a bit easier.

    There are ample walks to do in this area, including to the a Kagami Pond which is famous for the mirror like reflection it provides to Mount Togakushi. We passed a group who were making the trek to this pond. They seemed to have all the right gear and quite experienced.

    I would definitely love to come back here again (in both warmer months and winter) and explore the area further. There are many pensions dotted around the area which would also be fantastic to stay at also.    Read more

  • Sam EvansJapan Ski Trip 2017
    Day 5

    Soba Noodle Lunch

    February 21, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ -1 °C

    It is a very cold -7° and has been snowing all day - I have never seen so much snow! We are pretty cold and wet so popped in to this Soba Noodle restaurant for lunch and an escape from the cold.

    Togakushi is well known for its Soba Noodles, with the making of these dating back to the Heian Period.

    Our soba was so good. Once the soba noodles are eaten you are provided with soba-yu which is the broth the noodles were cooked in which you drink. The water absorbs the nutrients from the soba making it good to drink following your meal. This was a fantastic way to end our day of trekking through the snow.    Read more

  • Sam EvansJapan Ski Trip 2017
    Day 5

    Last night in Nagano

    February 21, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 -1 °C

    Enjoying some last night drinks in Nagano at the hotel bar on the top floor. At sunset there was a lovely view of the mountain ranges that surround Nagano city.

    I was very keen to try a Japanese Whisky, so I went with the Hakushu 12 Year Old. Distilled in the Southern Japanese Alps, within the Chubu region, the area is known for its pristine water which is used in creating the whisky. The Hakushu was lighter in colour and was gentle on the nose, some aromas of freshly mown grass and cornflower were detected. It had a lively body, I got a sense of creme brulee and a medium-to-long finish. Who am I kidding, it tasted like a good whisky.

    Interestingly, Japanese Whisky production began around 1870 with its origins in the country largely attributed to Shinjiro Torii, a pharmacist who studied distilling in Scotland. Scotch and Japanese Whisky share many similarities in their production, however Japanese Whiskies tend to have a lighter and sweeter profile.    Read more

  • Sam EvansJapan Ski Trip 2017
    Day 6

    Lodge Matsuya, Nozawa Onsen

    February 22, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    We just checked into our room for the next week. We have quite a spacious traditional Japanese room with tatami mats and futons. The view from the room isn't too shabby either.

    We took the Shinkansen from Nagano to Iiyama which took approximately 11 minutes (which isn't too bad for a 30 kilometre journey). Iiyama is located north-east of Nagano and has a population of around 21,000 people. It is primarily an agricultural city, however the surrounding ski resorts and hot springs also contribute to the local economy.

    The city is located on the Chikuma River (otherwise known as the Shinano River outside of the Nagano Prefecture) which is the longest river in Japan (367km in length). Iiyama is home to a number of festivals, including the Kamakura Snow Hut Festival which occurs annually in February (we just missed the dates). In this festival snow huts are made and lights put inside. Sounds pretty basic, however I think it is something that would be great to see if you are in the area at that time of year.

    From Iiyama Station we boarded the 'Nozawa Onsen Liner' which took us direct to the centre of Nozawa Onsen. This 20 minute trip cost 600 yen each and we enjoyed some lovely scenery, particularly as we came closer to Nozawa Onsen. From the Nozawa Onsen bus stop, it was only a short walk to our accommodation. Sally was very happy to find her skis had arrived safely and were in the dry room downstairs.    Read more

  • Sam EvansJapan Ski Trip 2017
    Day 6

    Furusato no Yu - Public Bath

    February 22, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    Onsen translates to hot springs, so as you can imagine Nozawa Onsen has an abundance of hot springs which make for great public baths. There are 13 public baths scattered throughout the village (as well as numerous private baths in hotels and lodges).

    Wanting to immerse ourselves in Japanese culture we took the plunge (some what of pun, however it is considered rude to 'jump' into a bath) and give it a crack. We were recommended by our hotel to try Furusato no Yu which is Nozawa Onsen's newest public baths (opening in 2011).

    It was a bit daunting first and I will admit to a few nerves on the way there. Once you get into it though it is actually quite enjoyable and very relaxing.

    There are a few customs to follow, however they are generally common sense:
    - take your shoes off before entering (as is the case everywhere);
    - wash yourself thoroughly and wash away the soap before entering the bath;
    - don't splash or swim in the bath; and
    - dry yourself before going to the changing area.

    This bath had an indoor and outdoor bath. I tried them both. It is certainly a very relaxing way to end your day, and imagine it's something we will look forward to after skiing tomorrow.    Read more

  • Sam EvansJapan Ski Trip 2017
    Day 6

    Nozawa Onsen - First Impressions

    February 22, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 0 °C

    Wow. Every now and then you come across a place you just know you will fall in love with before you actually do. This is such a place.

    Narrow cobblestone streets, the constant sound of running water, the occasional whiff of sulfur from a hot spring, beautiful traditional Japanese architecture, sweeping vistas to the Japanese Alps, vending machines on every corner, wide ski runs, tall pine trees, everything comes together to make this place what it is. Oh, and the snow! As far as the eye can see.

    We took the opportunity this afternoon to have a look around, originally thinking we would be gone for an hour or so, we got back to our lodge about 4 hours later. Despite being such a small village there is so much to see and do (before even getting to the skiing).

    The towns traditions appear to be very much in tact. I look forward to exploring more of what this wonderful place has to offer over the coming week.    Read more

  • Sam EvansJapan Ski Trip 2017
    Day 7

    First Day Skiing

    February 23, 2017 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    The day got of to a bit of a miserable start with rain falling over night and through the morning. As such, we took the opportunity to have a bit of a sleep in and take our time getting up to the slopes. We got up to Nagasaka, one of the two gondola stations in the resort probably around 11am.

    We spent the day on green runs (easy runs) so I could build my confidence and practice my turns. By the end of the day I felt as though I was doing pretty well. It all came back pretty quickly which was good.

    We headed up the Nagasaka Gondala a bit before lunch and were greeted with thick cloud cover. We had some lunch up the mountain to see if it would pass, which it didn't. We had visibility of about 30-40m so decided to take it easy down a green run which goes all the way down the mountain. It's about 7km all up, so by the end of it we were pretty spent.

    We played around a bit on the lower slopes where there was better visibility (though the snow was noticeably more sludgey).

    Stack count for the day for me was 2. Each time I drifted off the groomed run onto some heavier snow - the runs are very wide and sometimes it is difficult to tell where the groomed part stops.

    It was a miserable day, so no photos. It's snowing outside now, they are hoping for another 10-15cm overnight so let's see what tomorrow brings.    Read more

  • Sam EvansJapan Ski Trip 2017
    Day 7

    Shabu Shabu

    February 23, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    For dinner tonight we enjoyed Shabu Shabu. Shabu Shabu is a Japanese hot pot style of dining where you cook your meal in a hot pot of boiling water. The name Shabu Shabu is derived from the noise the meat makes when you cook it.

    Meats are sliced thinly for quick cooking and you also get a plate of vegetables and noodles to cook also.

    We tried two meats the 'standard' which was Australian steak and the 'premium' which was Wagyu Steak. Both were lovely (though the Wagyu was exceptional) and we could not finish our meal as there was simply too much.

    Shabu Shabu is a very enjoyable meal to have also. We made an absolute mess of our table as we were continually dropping noodles and vegetables. It would be a great way to eat when there are a large number of people to entertain also.    Read more

  • Sam EvansJapan Ski Trip 2017
    Day 8

    Second Day Skiing

    February 24, 2017 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 1 °C

    It snowed all of last night resulting in around an extra 15cm of snow on the mountain. Despite snow continuing throughout most of the day it was a great day on the slopes. Visibility was essentially unimpeded for the most part and very little wind.

    No lesson again today (weather permitting we will have one tomorrow) however feeling a lot more confident. We have essentially skied every green run (easy) and have started on some red runs (intermediate/blue). Sally thinks I'm getting better also.

    No stacks from either of us today. Though I awkwardly fell over when not moving at the top of a slope much to Sally's delight.    Read more

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