Belorado to Atapuerca

Last night was a great communal dinner with about 15-18 others we have met along the way and a few new faces. From what I gathered we were seated with people from Canada, Australia, UK, USA, and Germany around the table. Great conversations, all wonderful people. The Hospitalario/a were absolutely amazing. The work they do day in and day out starting at 6am-10pm is impressive. From checking pilgrims in to cleaning to laundry to breakfasts and dinners is non stop and yet they do it tirelessly from March to November, 7 days a week, with a smile and a great attitude the entire time. The only downside was it was freezing all night. They offered blankets on each bed but I never use those. There is no way they are washed often, so I just had my leggings, tshirt and my sleeping liner for warmth. My fault, I could have sucked it up and used the blanket, but I’m kinda weird that way😆 No coughing fits last night just a couple hacks here and there but nothing that was enough to continuously disturb my sleeping mates. Thank God. There’s no worse feeling than being stuck in a room with several others coughing with no escape!!
Today was really cold walking, I had 3 layers on most of the day and had to put the rain gear on for awhile. I thought, by the looks of the clouds, we were going to get dumped on, but it was just enough to justify the rain gear for a couple hours. Holly and I powered through it and ended up stripping down to two layers for most of the day after that. Still chilly, but like I’ve said before, I’ll take this any day over hot temps. You can always layer up but you can only take so much off!! I’m not drinking water like I should though. I’m not sweating and it’s cold so I forget. I don’t feel dehydrated so that’s good. We walked through beautiful forests, climbed a mountain, and had dirt tracks most of the day. It was perfect. After 30km we arrived in Atapuerca, a small village with an adorable albergue. The hospitalaria is sweet, she checked us into a room with 1 other lady from Germany (there is room for one more, so we may have another person staying with us). There is a communal dinner tonight which is cooking now and the aroma is filling the home beautifully and making me hungry (of course-I’m always hungry these days!!). We are washing our 2 pieces of long sleeve clothing now so we are sitting in this comfy den with blankets, and a cup of tea, with a relaxing music playing. I want for nothing right now. My body served me well today and I’m grateful. No blisters, just slightly sore muscles, but no pain. I’ve had 9 days of hiking now and I think I’m finally conditioned for this. My legs are strong and taking the hills with ease. The pain in my back, which was burning a few days ago, has now subsided. I’m not taking ibuprofen each night anymore either. I feel great. Tomorrow is an easier 20km day into the beautiful city of Burgos. The cathedral there is stunning. Besides the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, which is the final destination, it is the most magnificent in my opinion. The city is so beautiful. My first visit to Burgos all I could do was stare in awe at the architecture, shops, restaurants, the square, and of course in the cathedral in the middle of it all. I’m excited to see what Holly thinks. We are easily impressed Americans. Most Europeans see this sort of thing every day. Our architecture doesn’t even compare, so it is quite mind blowing. Sterling and I ended our 100 + mile Camino here in 2018, and toured the cathedral, it was a great memory and experience for us so I’m looking forward to seeing it again.
It’s time to check on the laundry and prepare the backpack for tomorrow, so I can do it all over again. 3 more weeks of hiking. Miss you all. 🩷Read more