Camino Frances 2024

September – October 2024
  • shefollowsarrows
Ten years ago I completed the 500 mile Frances route that starts in the Pyrenees in Saint-Jean-Pied-du-Port, France and ends in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. It will be special to repeat this 10 years later, where it all began. Read more
  • shefollowsarrows

List of countries

  • Spain Spain
Categories
Backpacking, Friendship, Hiking, Nature, Sightseeing, Solo travel, Spirituality, Vacation, Wilderness
  • 7.5kmiles traveled
Means of transport
  • Flight6,904kilometers
  • Walking-kilometers
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  • Bicycle-kilometers
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  • Car-kilometers
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  • 4x4-kilometers
  • Swimming-kilometers
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  • Sailing-kilometers
  • Houseboat-kilometers
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  • Cruise ship-kilometers
  • Horse-kilometers
  • Skiing-kilometers
  • Hitchhiking-kilometers
  • Cable car-kilometers
  • Helicopter-kilometers
  • Barefoot-kilometers
  • 31footprints
  • 34days
  • 336photos
  • 125likes
  • Santiago de Compostela

    September 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    I’ve put off writing my last entry because I was still processing the end of this incredible journey. I am sitting on a 10 hour flight from London to Seattle so I figured this is a perfect time to gather my thoughts around it all.
    The first day set the tone of what the next 31 days would hold, no doubt about that. Reconnecting with Louise, 6 years after meeting her around the same table, in the same chairs, at the same albergue, with no plan to do so, was mind blowing all on its own. But the message she received from God to pass along to me is something that I was left to ponder for the rest of my Camino.
    In case you missed my first entry, what she told me the next morning shook me to the core. After waking up 4 times during the night, and asking Him what she was to do with this meeting between us, she said that God told her to “Just tell her that I love her.” She didn’t know if I was a believer. She didn’t know how I’d react. She had fears of telling me this message, but, thankfully she did. We cried together that morning and when my feet hit the ground for my first steps on this Camino that morning I felt so much confidence, believing I was truly loved. I was so happy. I gave myself permission to be kind to myself and love myself, because if God could love me, then I should definitely be able to love me, right? I’ll post a photo Holly took of us around the table and Louise is holding up her phone with the photo she had taken 6 years ago with both of us in it. God is such a good planner, isn’t He? The feeling of pure love I was left with is hard to put words to, but if you have children, that’s the closest I can get to compare it to. That kind of love. Deep, sweet, full, overwhelming and totally unconditional.
    I felt unconditionally loved by my Father. Not an earthly father who is naturally flawed, but one who I’d never lose to death. A never ending love. A living love. Do you know how good that feels? I know, I know, this must be completely difficult to understand. I’m trying to articulate it. We all know Jesus loves us, it’s probably the first Sunday School song most of us learned to sing if we went to church. But, believing it is a whole different thing. Here I am, 53 years old, and I have never put this all together. I’ve depended on earthly love and many times, that has left me empty and heartbroken. I put faith in men and friends who are human and imperfect. Not even the best of us on this earth are capable of never hurting someone, whether intentionally or not. Yes, I have an amazingly loving husband, but it’s a lot of pressure to expect perfection from him, or anyone in my life for that matter. It’s unrealistic. It’s unfair. Everyone deserves more grace.
    I’m getting a little off track so I will come back around to my point, if there is one. I feel this journey has shown me, like that old country song..I was lookin’ for love in all the wrong places. I’m grateful for the love I have here on earth, I am so blessed actually, but THIS love is unwavering. It’s a constant that will never stop and never disappoint. Why didn’t I see this? I know it has always been there. I’ve always loved my Father and His Son. I am a Christian. I have worshipped, prayed, praised, and asked for forgiveness time and time again. Yet, oddly, I didn’t realize how much He loved me. Did I not feel deserving? That’s what it was. I haven’t been perfect and neither have you or anyone, but we are loved by God no matter what. Yes, no matter what. I’ve fallen , I’ve risen, I’ve fallen again, and risen again. I always rise again. Stronger, and more educated, but damn that’s hard to do.
    It’s life.
    The phrase ‘live and learn’ is thrown around loosely, but there’s a lot of truth to it. You don’t know what you don’t know. I think the cyclical shit can be broken though. It must. I’ve come to realize that I am truly loved by God. I don’t need to hide from Him because of my missteps, He knows, and knew of this ‘Camino’ of life before I even did. Maybe it was all part of His plan to bring me closer to Him. You think?
    This trip hit me so much deeper than any other. It has been a journey of the heart and soul that I’ve had to patiently let unfold. I’m not patient. Anyone who knows me knows this!Honestly, there were moments and even days on this pilgrimage where I questioned why I was doing it, AGAIN. Felt no progress, felt no unfolding happening, felt I needed more alone time, felt I was here on a vacation rather than a spiritual journey. I had anxiety about it, I was disappointed at times and irritated by it. Towards the end Holly and I had a meaningful conversation that left us both feeling so cleansed. As she said, ‘It was like a menthol feeling in your chest, a purge.’ It was something we both needed. The details aren’t important to anyone but us, but what I can say is that it was clearly another message from God, showing me, once again, how much he loves me. He took it all. Sucked it right out of me and left me cleansed. It has changed me, and that’s really exciting and inspiring. It can now change the lives of those around me as well. How cool is that? I did a Facebook reel at the end of the Camino the other day and my caption said ‘So Blessed, so grateful, and so Done.’ I meant that. It wasn’t a flippant statement. I AM so blessed. I AM so grateful and I am SO done with so many things that keep me from reaching my full potential (and I’m done with Camino’s, for reals this time!!). I got what I truly needed. There’s nothing greater than the love of God. How could I possibly go back for more? I’ve got it. I freaking got it. I got the clarity. I’m a slow learner, I guess.
    This Camino was, once again, full of amazing people from all over the world, exchanges of smiles and ‘Buen Caminos’ all along the 500 miles of trail. I shared snippets of my life, listened to others, enjoyed many communal meals and uncorked more beautiful wines than I’ll ever admit to. But, that’s the icing stuff. While appreciated, enjoyed, and welcomed, which got me through some really challenging days, it wasn’t the meat for me. In life off the trail I am not driven by acceptance or being liked. I am very comfortable being alone, with my little family, or with my small circle of friends. I don’t need to be included in everything. And honestly, there have been times I’m relieved when I am not. I do want people to feel like I care about them though. Because, I truly do. If I talk to you, it means you have something I admire or something I want to manifest in my life. In other words, you have good vibes, a good heart, and I trust you. I want substance and I want to share substance. I’m terrible at small talk, so I’m sure I’m often misunderstood when I appear to have nothing to add to these conversations. I don’t talk just to talk and fill silence. I love silence. Silence is where so much is revealed, and so much is healed. It’s ok with me. In fact, everything is really ok with me and I can’t wait to share the love I feel with my family and friends who add so much love, color, and comfort to my life ❤️🙏🏻🥳
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  • Zubiri to Pamplona

    September 5, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    I was expecting to be blogging before now but due to a 2 night layover in Dallas, Texas, today was my first walking day! Air travel these days is for the birds. That’s all I’ll say about that..otherwise the cuss words will start and you’ll be highly disappointed in my lack of resilience!
    Last night/today I had very special moments that I’m dying to share with you. Something I’ll never forget as long as I live.
    Due to the flight delays I had to miss the first two stops to keep my itinerary on track. I finally flew into Pamplona, Spain (I say “I” but I’m with Holly, so I’m a “We” again this year!!) and booked a room so I could regroup, mail a suitcase to Santiago de Compostela, and taxi to Zubiri the next day. I booked at Albergue Suseia, a wonderful albergue with the best food I’ve ever had on the Camino. I stayed there in 2016 & 2019, so I knew it was going to be a great evening, but I had no idea what surprises were in store for me. Dinner was at 7 and there were 11 of us dining in. We took a seat around the table and started introducing ourselves and chatting. The lady next to me, Louise, from Canada said I looked very familiar to her and asked if I was there in 2019. I told her I was with a puzzled look on my face. No sooner did I answer her she whipped out her phone and pulled up photos from 2019. She showed me the photo and I was totally shocked when I saw a photo of both her and I, sitting in the same exact chairs around the same table we were sitting at. I blurted out “That’s me!!” We both couldn’t believe it. We got tears in our eyes and hugged. Sara, who ran the Albergue was also stunned and cried. She covered her mouth and was amazed at the photo. She’s the one who said “And you’re even sitting in the same spots!!” I told Louise that there was a reason for this but I had no idea what it could be. Dinner concluded, we all turned into our beds but I kept thinking how it was so random and so cool! Of the thousands of people on the Camino, how is it possible we are not only traveling on the same days, but staying at the same Albergue? Unbelievable. I went to bed, slept like crap (still jet lagged), and at about 7am went downstairs to the common area. In walked Louise. She sat next to me, she’s so calm and soft spoken, her presence was something I felt warmth and comfort to be around. She said she got up 4 times during the night, still amazed, and confused at our meeting, and kept asking God each time she woke up what this was about and what she was to do with it. She told me the 4th time she asked Him, He said “Tell her I love her”. When she told me this we both started crying and hugging. I told her “Thank you, I really needed to hear this.” She said she told God she didn’t know if she had the courage to tell me or if she’d see me before we all parted ways in the morning. But she did. She walked to Pamplona today and will fly back to Canada. She only wanted to do this short part of the Camino. One day difference and we would’ve missed each other forever. So, today, for a person that doesn’t cry very easily, I started my day in tears and knowing God loves me. What a gift. I feel so blessed and so loved. I’m only posting one photo today, and that’s of Louise, my Camino angel.
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  • Pamplona to Puenta la Reina

    September 6, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Good news first. I finally got a full night sleep. Yesss!! It’s been almost a week of only getting a few hours at a time. When I woke up at 5am and looked at my watch I was so happy to see it wasn’t 12-1am for once. Now the bad news. It was dumping buckets of rain when I woke up. Shit. I looked at the weather app and it said it would stop at 8. The walk today was up Alto Del Pardon (the hill of forgiveness) and down tons of shale rock with tricky switchbacks. I’ve never walked this in the rain, only in blazing heat (remember this part, Sterling?!). I was afraid of it being very slippery and the mud. I was optimistic though that the rain would end, we’d just wait it out and take it slow. However, the more time went on, the rain just kept on. Holly and I talked about it and decided since both of us have a bad knee, we would make a smart choice and taxi to the next town. To hell with getting blisters, twisting an ankle, or worse yet, re-rupturing my knee that feels so good these days. I mean, after all, Louise said God loves me so I didn’t have anything to prove nor did I need the “hill of forgiveness” to repent my sins! 😆🙏🏻. More good news, this rainy weather is over after today. It’s going to be 60’s-70’s for at least the next 10 days. Hallelujah. I’ve never been here with these temps. Best walking weather we could’ve asked for. While I know the decision today was the right one, I don’t feel very bad assy and I’m antsy to get in the groove. I’m not there yet, but now that I’m sleeping, the rain front has moved on, I feel tomorrow will be a great restart.
    We got to Puente la Reina, strolled around the town, walked over the queens bridge, bought some provisions for tomorrow’s walk, and went into a very special church that was actually quite impressive. Under the wide floorboards there were priests and other dignitaries buried. I felt wrong walking over the top of them but they were in the isle, and under the pews, so there was no avoiding them! They even had, encased in the alter, 16th century femurs and mandibles from San Pedro and San Pedro Eliza for who the church is named after. Crazy. The volunteer at the church was happy to see us visit and allowed us up the back staircase to where the very old organ was and a better view/photo of the retablo. We felt special to have the opportunity to go where most didn’t get to go! He stamped our credential with a beautiful stamp and we of course gave the church some coins. We also checked out a few of the restaurants menus here and decided on a place to eat later. The deciding factor for me was seeing Sopa de Ajo (garlic soup). Soup sounded good, I’ve been fighting a cold since Dallas, so I think this is just what my body needs.
    We are checked into our albergue and it’s so lovely and quirky! I’m in a room with 4 ladies, all very nice. Holly is in a room next to me and I can hear her chatting it up with another gal. I love the Camino, and this aspect of albergue’s where we have the opportunity to meet like-minded beautiful souls from all over the world. Such a rich experience already and we are literally just getting started.
    More tomorrow friends, love and miss you 😘
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  • Puente la Reina to Estella

    September 7, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Today we tackled 3 hilltop villages, Mañeru, Cirauqui, and Lorca before entering Estella. They were pretty good climbs, but the cool morning weather and the blue skies made it perfect. We passed by farmlands, olive trees, and vineyards planted in the red, rich soil of the Rioja region where many of the best red wines are produced. At the end of the day, it started to heat up and we were very thankful to arrive in our beautiful albergue. We did about 22km and tomorrow will be a bigger day of about 29km. This will set us up for going into the city of Logrono with a little shorter distance, and more time to enjoy the wonderful tapas street. Honestly, the hardest part of today was dealing with how last night went. This cold I am trying to shake kept me (and everyone else 😞) up. Being a cougher is worse than being a snorer in an albergue!! Needless to say I made a few friends and pissed off quite a bit more. I feel so bad. There was no where to go and nothing I could do. I got medicine from the pharmacy to try and help it, but it only worked for a few hours until 1am. Another sleepless night. At some point I’m going to crash hard. Lack of sleep surely isn’t helping matters. Tonight I’m booked in a bed in a room full of people. Holly booked a private room with 3 beds because it was last available when she booked a month or so ago. I’ve been stressing about going to bed tonight and she just said, as we are both blogging, that I’m welcome to share her room with her. I am so very grateful for her generosity. She doesn’t hear the coughing (so she says…she’s also very sweet and wouldn’t want someone to feel uncomfortable) because she puts headphones on at night listening to her book. Thank God. The next few nights at least we have private rooms booked so hopefully this cold will be gone by then. More tomorrow, and hopefully it will be a little more upbeat for you!

    P.S. yesterday’s blog posted under Hiker Holly’s blog because I was added as a traveler with her. We removed me from that so it shouldn’t happen again!
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  • Free wine fountain, unfortunately it was at 8am and already drained
    Cool mountains in the distanceChurch on top of the mountain, wouldn't want to walk to church 😫Community water systemWalking into EstellaEstellaI think they really want me to go that wayTorres Del Rio, fiesta nightTorres Del Rio, home for the night.

    Estella to Torres del Rio

    September 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    I missed blogging yesterday due to it being about 30km day, laundry, dinner, bed! Some days are too exhausting to form sentences!! Here are some photos from yesterday. Great walk, feet good, spirits high ❤️☀️Read more

  • Torres del Rio to Logrono

    September 9, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Today we got to Logrono in good time. Years past I followed the stages of the guidebook and that made the walk into this city brutal at about 30k. I’d rather do 30k on dirt tracks (yesterday) than on concrete. My feet are tired, but no blisters and the weather is absolutely perfect. Mornings are in the low 50’s, with a high today of 76. That’s pretty warm when walking but I’d say it was around 72 as we entered the city. I love it here, one of my favorite cities on the Camino. Lots of great memories here with friends from past Camino’s. There is a street full of tapas bars right by our room, we are resting in our private room until that opens up. I booked us a room at a place I’ve stayed at few times. Great location with a balcony and views of the bustling streets below. The cost was about $25/each. Plus they do your laundry and deliver it to your room for an extra $5. Can’t beat that!! Our walk today was beautiful, again lots of agriculture peaceful. The pilgrim traffic is so much more than I remember years ago. Word is out, it’s a much more popular place than it was 11 years ago! I counted at least 20 people in front of me this morning, but after a break in Viana, we all seemed to split up and stagger apart. I like having more people around for safety reasons, but there are times I’d like it quieter. I guess I’ll be grateful I saw this path during a time when it wasn’t so crowded. It was smart to book ahead all of our rooms. I’ve heard of some who have had to keep walking because they assumed there would be a bed available where they were going. After witnessing the number of pilgrims here, there is no way I’d take that gamble.
    Logrono is the wine capital of the La Rioja region. The wine is wonderful and cheap. Only a couple euros per glass. To buy a bottle in the store, less than €10. Incredible, considering it’s the best of the best. They are proud of their wine, and rightfully so. Here are a few photos of the walk today and this incredible city.
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  • Camino Legend!
    This made me thirstySweet town center of Navarrete, this is where to fill water bottlesAlmost harvest!This was a rocky section!!Cooling hutThe streets of NajeraHere we are, how far we've come, and how farrr we have to go!!An ancient pilgrim hospital in ruins

    Logrono to Najera

    September 10, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    What a difference this Camino is without contending with the heat!! I was in a tank with a long sleeve top over it for most of the day. The last couple hours into Najera started to get warm, but not enough to make me drain my water or sweat much at all. So nice. I had totally forgot that today was the day we pass by Marcelino, a Camino legend, in his shelter offering fruits and trinkets for donation only. I don’t know how long he has been there, but I know for sure it’s been at least 11 years. He has a cool stamp for the credential too. He was a welcomed sight, we picked up a banana, ate it there and chatted with people who stopped too. We met two ladies from Chicago who were sore but happy. One lady said she was so sore that she told her friend she didn’t want to talk or think while they walked, she was in too much pain. We also saw a young man again (still haven’t caught his name) who is always so friendly and goes out of his way to say hi and ask how we are doing. Poor thing, his shoes are split open, worn thin, he limps because I’m sure his feet are trashed, but he’s never complaining and always asking about others. Kind soul. Soon after we hit the village of Navarrete about mid way through our 30km walk and stopped at a cafe for a break. They had an ‘English Breakfast’ on the menu for €7.50 and while I don’t like eating large meals when I’m doing long distances, I knew there were no other stops. So I ordered up 2 eggs and 4 pieces of bacon topped off with 2 cafe americanos. Perfect and not too heavy. While there, we saw the young man again and talked to a couple from the UK. As they got up to leave, strapped on backpacks, and headed down the road the young man came over and asked me “Do you know who was sitting here?” I said “Yes it was the lady with the green backpack”, pointing at her as she was taking her first few steps down the road with her husband. He grabbed her PHONE off the table and went after her. When she noticed him and that she left it, she hugged him and her husband shook his hand. What a guy. Good things are coming his way..maybe someone will buy him a new pair of shoes at some point?! When I was clearing dishes off our table that were ours and a person before us, there he was again, at the door, asking to take them from me to place on the counter. Always looking to help, and paying attention to what is needed around him. I know there are a lot of nice people on the Camino, but he was a stand out person. Maybe because he’s so young? Maybe because he’s always smiling? He’s just a great example of what we all could strive to be like more instead of being self absorbed? It was a lesson to me to look around and see what is needed around me. Yesterday I tried. We were all sitting on a street in Viana for a coffee break, Holly and I like to take off our shoes and one layer of socks to let our feet breathe while propped up on another chair when we have our coffee. Across from us I noticed a lady taking off her shoes and socks too. She only had the chair she was sitting on. She didn’t want to touch her feet on the ground so she was holding them up and rolling her ankles around. I got up and offered her my chair. Instant smile of gratitude. It feels good to think of others. It feels good to show people they are noticed and cared for. I think my lessons lately have been focusing around others instead of self. Helping when I can. We get so busy in ‘real life’ taking care of our needs or our families, but that’s expected. Do something nice for a stranger, it’s to me more rewarding and surprising to the recipient..and the smile they give you (especially if you don’t speak the same language) sticks with you the rest of day.
    We passed through more of the La Rioja region with the vineyards planted in that rich, red soil. Scenery was awesome and walking on dirt roads with the sound of crunching gravel beneath my feet makes me happy and it feels like home. We had a couple parks we could stop at along the way, and rather than fly by
    them in true Tammy fashion, we stopped and rested. We saw the couple (Dave & Amy) from Bellingham, Wa. and chatted with them awhile. Her feet/ankles are swelling up on her so she’s resting often. Nice couple. We met them in Pamplona, but haven’t run into them much. They are doing Everest after this and some other adventures after that.
    All of this made a normally grueling day, so much more enjoyable. Between the weather, kind people, and short conversations, we arrived in Najera in no time it seemed. Holly and I rented a 2 bedroom apartment 🤩 for the night for €50 each which has a washer and dryer, balcony, and large kitchen/living room. We are in heaven! I went to the pharmacy yesterday to try and get some kick ass cough medicine but ended up getting effervescent tablets that dissolve in water to drink. It is supposed to ‘clean the lungs’ as the tech said, and break up the chest congestion to avoid infection. I’ve not heard of this medication in the states, but she said ‘clean first, then when clean, you can stop the cough with cough medicine’. I’m noticing it breaking it up, I no longer have an unproductive dry cough, so there is hope? I’m on day 10 of this crap. I’m tired of it!
    That’s all I have for today, tomorrow is a 21km day, so it’ll feel like a breeze after today! Miss you friends, thanks for reading.
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  • Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    September 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Today was an easy 21km in, again, wonderful weather! I’m loving this weather, I’ve never enjoyed the Camino Frances so much! Usually this section is unbearably hot. I’m so grateful for the cool, fall temperatures. Tomorrow there is a chance of rain in the morning, doesn’t look like too much, so we will manage. Today we walked through Azofra where we had a coffee break and chatted with Liz from California who we met on the way out of town this morning. Sweet lady who shared her story of what brought her to the Camino, which made her cry telling it, it was very touching that she shared it with us. We trudged forward and got to Ciruena which is still a hauntingly strange town even 11 years after seeing it the first time. I had hoped it had changed, but it had not. Beautiful golf course with dozens of condo buildings everywhere but we only saw one person walking the streets. Abandoned buildings, all fairly new in comparison to the ancient buildings we are used to seeing, but mold taking over the outsides. For sale signs everywhere. They were there when I was here 10 & 5 years ago. Beautiful community pool and playgrounds, but no children. I only counted about a dozen parked cars. I didn’t get a photo as all I could think of was getting the hell out of there. Why so abandoned? What happened here? All this new construction (or at least a decade old) but no one has bought here, no sign of life, just a golf course. I need to look this up. After the ghost golf village we were about 5Km from Santo Domingo de la Calzada, our final destination for the day. I like it here. Some great history and beautiful old buildings, many restaurants, one of which is a Michelin restaurant we are going to tonight and of course a stunning church. I did the tour of the museum and church on a previous visit so I didn’t venture in to do it again. Holly didn’t seem interested in the tour so we got our credential stamped there and went in search of tapas and wine to tide us over until our 7:30 dinner reservation. We called our husbands, got the low down on the happenings at home, and headed back to the room. Once again we are in an apartment with our own bedroom, kitchen/living room. $53/each. So worth it. Tomorrow night we are in an albergue with who knows how many people so we are enjoying the peace and privacy while we can!! I like the mix of private and shared living with others. Staying in albergues are the key to meeting people. The experience is so much better when you get to hear all the stories and laughter. My biggest concern is my cough and disturbing others. Last night was good though, I think these effervescent tablets dissolved in water at night are helping break it up in my chest. I’m hopeful that tomorrow night there is a loud snoring man who steals the stage from my intermittent coughing attacks! That’s all I got for now, Ciao!!😘😘Read more

  • Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

    September 11, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Backtracking to last night, we had an excellent dinner for such a reasonable price. We had to wait until 7:30, we were very tired and very hungry by then, but well worth the wait! After dinner, back to our room and to bed. I slept so well. No coughing fits, and I slept long enough to dream. My dreams are crazy every time I’m on the Camino! I love it. My nights are an adventure too haha!!
    Rain today! You know I love hiking in the rain…not! I toughed it out though and didn’t taxi 😂! However, the rain gear is much easier to wear when it’s not 90*! Thank god it didn’t feel like a sauna. I always questioned rain gear in the heat..I would get wet under it from sweating so it didn’t keep me dry! Today we were blessed with cool temperatures, even cold at times with wind. I was happy I had the jacket and rain pants, it cut the wind and did its job keeping me dry. What a concept! We did 22.4km with no major hills to climb. We passed through a few villages for the opportunity to warm up get a coffee and something to eat. So nice to have some shelter in the rain and not be stuck in it with nothing along the way. Our spirits were high despite the conditions, and conversation was flowing which helped pass the time. Tomorrow we have 30km to walk to a very small village of Atapuerca. This village has big time history. The discovery of the oldest human remains in Western Europe were discovered there in 1976 dating back 1.1-1.2 MILLION years ago. Here is some info on it if interested

    https://www.britannica.com/place/Atapuerca

    It’s going to be a tough day but it will make going into Burgos, the next big city, more manageable. That city is difficult to walk into. It takes forever to get to the other end of town once you get there..and lots of pavement which is hard on the feet.
    Tonight we are in an albergue but no bunk bed! They are all twin beds which are so nice. No squeaky metal frame making noise every time you turn over. They offer a dinner here so we are staying in. I chose the paella. I’m so ready to try it, it’s one of my favorite Spanish dishes! Actually, I’d eat anything, I’m not a picky pilgrim!! Burning around 4000 calories a day will do that!!
    Ok friends, that’s all I’ve got today, I’ll check in tomorrow so you know if I survived!
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  • Belorado to Atapuerca

    September 13, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Last night was a great communal dinner with about 15-18 others we have met along the way and a few new faces. From what I gathered we were seated with people from Canada, Australia, UK, USA, and Germany around the table. Great conversations, all wonderful people. The Hospitalario/a were absolutely amazing. The work they do day in and day out starting at 6am-10pm is impressive. From checking pilgrims in to cleaning to laundry to breakfasts and dinners is non stop and yet they do it tirelessly from March to November, 7 days a week, with a smile and a great attitude the entire time. The only downside was it was freezing all night. They offered blankets on each bed but I never use those. There is no way they are washed often, so I just had my leggings, tshirt and my sleeping liner for warmth. My fault, I could have sucked it up and used the blanket, but I’m kinda weird that way😆 No coughing fits last night just a couple hacks here and there but nothing that was enough to continuously disturb my sleeping mates. Thank God. There’s no worse feeling than being stuck in a room with several others coughing with no escape!!
    Today was really cold walking, I had 3 layers on most of the day and had to put the rain gear on for awhile. I thought, by the looks of the clouds, we were going to get dumped on, but it was just enough to justify the rain gear for a couple hours. Holly and I powered through it and ended up stripping down to two layers for most of the day after that. Still chilly, but like I’ve said before, I’ll take this any day over hot temps. You can always layer up but you can only take so much off!! I’m not drinking water like I should though. I’m not sweating and it’s cold so I forget. I don’t feel dehydrated so that’s good. We walked through beautiful forests, climbed a mountain, and had dirt tracks most of the day. It was perfect. After 30km we arrived in Atapuerca, a small village with an adorable albergue. The hospitalaria is sweet, she checked us into a room with 1 other lady from Germany (there is room for one more, so we may have another person staying with us). There is a communal dinner tonight which is cooking now and the aroma is filling the home beautifully and making me hungry (of course-I’m always hungry these days!!). We are washing our 2 pieces of long sleeve clothing now so we are sitting in this comfy den with blankets, and a cup of tea, with a relaxing music playing. I want for nothing right now. My body served me well today and I’m grateful. No blisters, just slightly sore muscles, but no pain. I’ve had 9 days of hiking now and I think I’m finally conditioned for this. My legs are strong and taking the hills with ease. The pain in my back, which was burning a few days ago, has now subsided. I’m not taking ibuprofen each night anymore either. I feel great. Tomorrow is an easier 20km day into the beautiful city of Burgos. The cathedral there is stunning. Besides the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, which is the final destination, it is the most magnificent in my opinion. The city is so beautiful. My first visit to Burgos all I could do was stare in awe at the architecture, shops, restaurants, the square, and of course in the cathedral in the middle of it all. I’m excited to see what Holly thinks. We are easily impressed Americans. Most Europeans see this sort of thing every day. Our architecture doesn’t even compare, so it is quite mind blowing. Sterling and I ended our 100 + mile Camino here in 2018, and toured the cathedral, it was a great memory and experience for us so I’m looking forward to seeing it again.
    It’s time to check on the laundry and prepare the backpack for tomorrow, so I can do it all over again. 3 more weeks of hiking. Miss you all. 🩷
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