• shefollowsarrows
set. – out. 2024

Camino Frances 2024

Ten years ago I completed the 500 mile Frances route that starts in the Pyrenees in Saint-Jean-Pied-du-Port, France and ends in Santiago de Compostela, Spain. It will be special to repeat this 10 years later, where it all began. Leia mais
  • Inicio da viagem
    4 de setembro de 2024

    Santiago de Compostela

    4 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    I’ve put off writing my last entry because I was still processing the end of this incredible journey. I am sitting on a 10 hour flight from London to Seattle so I figured this is a perfect time to gather my thoughts around it all.
    The first day set the tone of what the next 31 days would hold, no doubt about that. Reconnecting with Louise, 6 years after meeting her around the same table, in the same chairs, at the same albergue, with no plan to do so, was mind blowing all on its own. But the message she received from God to pass along to me is something that I was left to ponder for the rest of my Camino.
    In case you missed my first entry, what she told me the next morning shook me to the core. After waking up 4 times during the night, and asking Him what she was to do with this meeting between us, she said that God told her to “Just tell her that I love her.” She didn’t know if I was a believer. She didn’t know how I’d react. She had fears of telling me this message, but, thankfully she did. We cried together that morning and when my feet hit the ground for my first steps on this Camino that morning I felt so much confidence, believing I was truly loved. I was so happy. I gave myself permission to be kind to myself and love myself, because if God could love me, then I should definitely be able to love me, right? I’ll post a photo Holly took of us around the table and Louise is holding up her phone with the photo she had taken 6 years ago with both of us in it. God is such a good planner, isn’t He? The feeling of pure love I was left with is hard to put words to, but if you have children, that’s the closest I can get to compare it to. That kind of love. Deep, sweet, full, overwhelming and totally unconditional.
    I felt unconditionally loved by my Father. Not an earthly father who is naturally flawed, but one who I’d never lose to death. A never ending love. A living love. Do you know how good that feels? I know, I know, this must be completely difficult to understand. I’m trying to articulate it. We all know Jesus loves us, it’s probably the first Sunday School song most of us learned to sing if we went to church. But, believing it is a whole different thing. Here I am, 53 years old, and I have never put this all together. I’ve depended on earthly love and many times, that has left me empty and heartbroken. I put faith in men and friends who are human and imperfect. Not even the best of us on this earth are capable of never hurting someone, whether intentionally or not. Yes, I have an amazingly loving husband, but it’s a lot of pressure to expect perfection from him, or anyone in my life for that matter. It’s unrealistic. It’s unfair. Everyone deserves more grace.
    I’m getting a little off track so I will come back around to my point, if there is one. I feel this journey has shown me, like that old country song..I was lookin’ for love in all the wrong places. I’m grateful for the love I have here on earth, I am so blessed actually, but THIS love is unwavering. It’s a constant that will never stop and never disappoint. Why didn’t I see this? I know it has always been there. I’ve always loved my Father and His Son. I am a Christian. I have worshipped, prayed, praised, and asked for forgiveness time and time again. Yet, oddly, I didn’t realize how much He loved me. Did I not feel deserving? That’s what it was. I haven’t been perfect and neither have you or anyone, but we are loved by God no matter what. Yes, no matter what. I’ve fallen , I’ve risen, I’ve fallen again, and risen again. I always rise again. Stronger, and more educated, but damn that’s hard to do.
    It’s life.
    The phrase ‘live and learn’ is thrown around loosely, but there’s a lot of truth to it. You don’t know what you don’t know. I think the cyclical shit can be broken though. It must. I’ve come to realize that I am truly loved by God. I don’t need to hide from Him because of my missteps, He knows, and knew of this ‘Camino’ of life before I even did. Maybe it was all part of His plan to bring me closer to Him. You think?
    This trip hit me so much deeper than any other. It has been a journey of the heart and soul that I’ve had to patiently let unfold. I’m not patient. Anyone who knows me knows this!Honestly, there were moments and even days on this pilgrimage where I questioned why I was doing it, AGAIN. Felt no progress, felt no unfolding happening, felt I needed more alone time, felt I was here on a vacation rather than a spiritual journey. I had anxiety about it, I was disappointed at times and irritated by it. Towards the end Holly and I had a meaningful conversation that left us both feeling so cleansed. As she said, ‘It was like a menthol feeling in your chest, a purge.’ It was something we both needed. The details aren’t important to anyone but us, but what I can say is that it was clearly another message from God, showing me, once again, how much he loves me. He took it all. Sucked it right out of me and left me cleansed. It has changed me, and that’s really exciting and inspiring. It can now change the lives of those around me as well. How cool is that? I did a Facebook reel at the end of the Camino the other day and my caption said ‘So Blessed, so grateful, and so Done.’ I meant that. It wasn’t a flippant statement. I AM so blessed. I AM so grateful and I am SO done with so many things that keep me from reaching my full potential (and I’m done with Camino’s, for reals this time!!). I got what I truly needed. There’s nothing greater than the love of God. How could I possibly go back for more? I’ve got it. I freaking got it. I got the clarity. I’m a slow learner, I guess.
    This Camino was, once again, full of amazing people from all over the world, exchanges of smiles and ‘Buen Caminos’ all along the 500 miles of trail. I shared snippets of my life, listened to others, enjoyed many communal meals and uncorked more beautiful wines than I’ll ever admit to. But, that’s the icing stuff. While appreciated, enjoyed, and welcomed, which got me through some really challenging days, it wasn’t the meat for me. In life off the trail I am not driven by acceptance or being liked. I am very comfortable being alone, with my little family, or with my small circle of friends. I don’t need to be included in everything. And honestly, there have been times I’m relieved when I am not. I do want people to feel like I care about them though. Because, I truly do. If I talk to you, it means you have something I admire or something I want to manifest in my life. In other words, you have good vibes, a good heart, and I trust you. I want substance and I want to share substance. I’m terrible at small talk, so I’m sure I’m often misunderstood when I appear to have nothing to add to these conversations. I don’t talk just to talk and fill silence. I love silence. Silence is where so much is revealed, and so much is healed. It’s ok with me. In fact, everything is really ok with me and I can’t wait to share the love I feel with my family and friends who add so much love, color, and comfort to my life ❤️🙏🏻🥳
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  • Zubiri to Pamplona

    5 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    I was expecting to be blogging before now but due to a 2 night layover in Dallas, Texas, today was my first walking day! Air travel these days is for the birds. That’s all I’ll say about that..otherwise the cuss words will start and you’ll be highly disappointed in my lack of resilience!
    Last night/today I had very special moments that I’m dying to share with you. Something I’ll never forget as long as I live.
    Due to the flight delays I had to miss the first two stops to keep my itinerary on track. I finally flew into Pamplona, Spain (I say “I” but I’m with Holly, so I’m a “We” again this year!!) and booked a room so I could regroup, mail a suitcase to Santiago de Compostela, and taxi to Zubiri the next day. I booked at Albergue Suseia, a wonderful albergue with the best food I’ve ever had on the Camino. I stayed there in 2016 & 2019, so I knew it was going to be a great evening, but I had no idea what surprises were in store for me. Dinner was at 7 and there were 11 of us dining in. We took a seat around the table and started introducing ourselves and chatting. The lady next to me, Louise, from Canada said I looked very familiar to her and asked if I was there in 2019. I told her I was with a puzzled look on my face. No sooner did I answer her she whipped out her phone and pulled up photos from 2019. She showed me the photo and I was totally shocked when I saw a photo of both her and I, sitting in the same exact chairs around the same table we were sitting at. I blurted out “That’s me!!” We both couldn’t believe it. We got tears in our eyes and hugged. Sara, who ran the Albergue was also stunned and cried. She covered her mouth and was amazed at the photo. She’s the one who said “And you’re even sitting in the same spots!!” I told Louise that there was a reason for this but I had no idea what it could be. Dinner concluded, we all turned into our beds but I kept thinking how it was so random and so cool! Of the thousands of people on the Camino, how is it possible we are not only traveling on the same days, but staying at the same Albergue? Unbelievable. I went to bed, slept like crap (still jet lagged), and at about 7am went downstairs to the common area. In walked Louise. She sat next to me, she’s so calm and soft spoken, her presence was something I felt warmth and comfort to be around. She said she got up 4 times during the night, still amazed, and confused at our meeting, and kept asking God each time she woke up what this was about and what she was to do with it. She told me the 4th time she asked Him, He said “Tell her I love her”. When she told me this we both started crying and hugging. I told her “Thank you, I really needed to hear this.” She said she told God she didn’t know if she had the courage to tell me or if she’d see me before we all parted ways in the morning. But she did. She walked to Pamplona today and will fly back to Canada. She only wanted to do this short part of the Camino. One day difference and we would’ve missed each other forever. So, today, for a person that doesn’t cry very easily, I started my day in tears and knowing God loves me. What a gift. I feel so blessed and so loved. I’m only posting one photo today, and that’s of Louise, my Camino angel.
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  • Pamplona to Puenta la Reina

    6 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Good news first. I finally got a full night sleep. Yesss!! It’s been almost a week of only getting a few hours at a time. When I woke up at 5am and looked at my watch I was so happy to see it wasn’t 12-1am for once. Now the bad news. It was dumping buckets of rain when I woke up. Shit. I looked at the weather app and it said it would stop at 8. The walk today was up Alto Del Pardon (the hill of forgiveness) and down tons of shale rock with tricky switchbacks. I’ve never walked this in the rain, only in blazing heat (remember this part, Sterling?!). I was afraid of it being very slippery and the mud. I was optimistic though that the rain would end, we’d just wait it out and take it slow. However, the more time went on, the rain just kept on. Holly and I talked about it and decided since both of us have a bad knee, we would make a smart choice and taxi to the next town. To hell with getting blisters, twisting an ankle, or worse yet, re-rupturing my knee that feels so good these days. I mean, after all, Louise said God loves me so I didn’t have anything to prove nor did I need the “hill of forgiveness” to repent my sins! 😆🙏🏻. More good news, this rainy weather is over after today. It’s going to be 60’s-70’s for at least the next 10 days. Hallelujah. I’ve never been here with these temps. Best walking weather we could’ve asked for. While I know the decision today was the right one, I don’t feel very bad assy and I’m antsy to get in the groove. I’m not there yet, but now that I’m sleeping, the rain front has moved on, I feel tomorrow will be a great restart.
    We got to Puente la Reina, strolled around the town, walked over the queens bridge, bought some provisions for tomorrow’s walk, and went into a very special church that was actually quite impressive. Under the wide floorboards there were priests and other dignitaries buried. I felt wrong walking over the top of them but they were in the isle, and under the pews, so there was no avoiding them! They even had, encased in the alter, 16th century femurs and mandibles from San Pedro and San Pedro Eliza for who the church is named after. Crazy. The volunteer at the church was happy to see us visit and allowed us up the back staircase to where the very old organ was and a better view/photo of the retablo. We felt special to have the opportunity to go where most didn’t get to go! He stamped our credential with a beautiful stamp and we of course gave the church some coins. We also checked out a few of the restaurants menus here and decided on a place to eat later. The deciding factor for me was seeing Sopa de Ajo (garlic soup). Soup sounded good, I’ve been fighting a cold since Dallas, so I think this is just what my body needs.
    We are checked into our albergue and it’s so lovely and quirky! I’m in a room with 4 ladies, all very nice. Holly is in a room next to me and I can hear her chatting it up with another gal. I love the Camino, and this aspect of albergue’s where we have the opportunity to meet like-minded beautiful souls from all over the world. Such a rich experience already and we are literally just getting started.
    More tomorrow friends, love and miss you 😘
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  • Puente la Reina to Estella

    7 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Today we tackled 3 hilltop villages, Mañeru, Cirauqui, and Lorca before entering Estella. They were pretty good climbs, but the cool morning weather and the blue skies made it perfect. We passed by farmlands, olive trees, and vineyards planted in the red, rich soil of the Rioja region where many of the best red wines are produced. At the end of the day, it started to heat up and we were very thankful to arrive in our beautiful albergue. We did about 22km and tomorrow will be a bigger day of about 29km. This will set us up for going into the city of Logrono with a little shorter distance, and more time to enjoy the wonderful tapas street. Honestly, the hardest part of today was dealing with how last night went. This cold I am trying to shake kept me (and everyone else 😞) up. Being a cougher is worse than being a snorer in an albergue!! Needless to say I made a few friends and pissed off quite a bit more. I feel so bad. There was no where to go and nothing I could do. I got medicine from the pharmacy to try and help it, but it only worked for a few hours until 1am. Another sleepless night. At some point I’m going to crash hard. Lack of sleep surely isn’t helping matters. Tonight I’m booked in a bed in a room full of people. Holly booked a private room with 3 beds because it was last available when she booked a month or so ago. I’ve been stressing about going to bed tonight and she just said, as we are both blogging, that I’m welcome to share her room with her. I am so very grateful for her generosity. She doesn’t hear the coughing (so she says…she’s also very sweet and wouldn’t want someone to feel uncomfortable) because she puts headphones on at night listening to her book. Thank God. The next few nights at least we have private rooms booked so hopefully this cold will be gone by then. More tomorrow, and hopefully it will be a little more upbeat for you!

    P.S. yesterday’s blog posted under Hiker Holly’s blog because I was added as a traveler with her. We removed me from that so it shouldn’t happen again!
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  • Free wine fountain, unfortunately it was at 8am and already drained
    Cool mountains in the distanceChurch on top of the mountain, wouldn't want to walk to church 😫Community water systemWalking into EstellaEstellaI think they really want me to go that wayTorres Del Rio, fiesta nightTorres Del Rio, home for the night.

    Estella to Torres del Rio

    8 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    I missed blogging yesterday due to it being about 30km day, laundry, dinner, bed! Some days are too exhausting to form sentences!! Here are some photos from yesterday. Great walk, feet good, spirits high ❤️☀️Leia mais

  • Torres del Rio to Logrono

    9 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Today we got to Logrono in good time. Years past I followed the stages of the guidebook and that made the walk into this city brutal at about 30k. I’d rather do 30k on dirt tracks (yesterday) than on concrete. My feet are tired, but no blisters and the weather is absolutely perfect. Mornings are in the low 50’s, with a high today of 76. That’s pretty warm when walking but I’d say it was around 72 as we entered the city. I love it here, one of my favorite cities on the Camino. Lots of great memories here with friends from past Camino’s. There is a street full of tapas bars right by our room, we are resting in our private room until that opens up. I booked us a room at a place I’ve stayed at few times. Great location with a balcony and views of the bustling streets below. The cost was about $25/each. Plus they do your laundry and deliver it to your room for an extra $5. Can’t beat that!! Our walk today was beautiful, again lots of agriculture peaceful. The pilgrim traffic is so much more than I remember years ago. Word is out, it’s a much more popular place than it was 11 years ago! I counted at least 20 people in front of me this morning, but after a break in Viana, we all seemed to split up and stagger apart. I like having more people around for safety reasons, but there are times I’d like it quieter. I guess I’ll be grateful I saw this path during a time when it wasn’t so crowded. It was smart to book ahead all of our rooms. I’ve heard of some who have had to keep walking because they assumed there would be a bed available where they were going. After witnessing the number of pilgrims here, there is no way I’d take that gamble.
    Logrono is the wine capital of the La Rioja region. The wine is wonderful and cheap. Only a couple euros per glass. To buy a bottle in the store, less than €10. Incredible, considering it’s the best of the best. They are proud of their wine, and rightfully so. Here are a few photos of the walk today and this incredible city.
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  • Camino Legend!
    This made me thirstySweet town center of Navarrete, this is where to fill water bottlesAlmost harvest!This was a rocky section!!Cooling hutThe streets of NajeraHere we are, how far we've come, and how farrr we have to go!!An ancient pilgrim hospital in ruins

    Logrono to Najera

    10 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    What a difference this Camino is without contending with the heat!! I was in a tank with a long sleeve top over it for most of the day. The last couple hours into Najera started to get warm, but not enough to make me drain my water or sweat much at all. So nice. I had totally forgot that today was the day we pass by Marcelino, a Camino legend, in his shelter offering fruits and trinkets for donation only. I don’t know how long he has been there, but I know for sure it’s been at least 11 years. He has a cool stamp for the credential too. He was a welcomed sight, we picked up a banana, ate it there and chatted with people who stopped too. We met two ladies from Chicago who were sore but happy. One lady said she was so sore that she told her friend she didn’t want to talk or think while they walked, she was in too much pain. We also saw a young man again (still haven’t caught his name) who is always so friendly and goes out of his way to say hi and ask how we are doing. Poor thing, his shoes are split open, worn thin, he limps because I’m sure his feet are trashed, but he’s never complaining and always asking about others. Kind soul. Soon after we hit the village of Navarrete about mid way through our 30km walk and stopped at a cafe for a break. They had an ‘English Breakfast’ on the menu for €7.50 and while I don’t like eating large meals when I’m doing long distances, I knew there were no other stops. So I ordered up 2 eggs and 4 pieces of bacon topped off with 2 cafe americanos. Perfect and not too heavy. While there, we saw the young man again and talked to a couple from the UK. As they got up to leave, strapped on backpacks, and headed down the road the young man came over and asked me “Do you know who was sitting here?” I said “Yes it was the lady with the green backpack”, pointing at her as she was taking her first few steps down the road with her husband. He grabbed her PHONE off the table and went after her. When she noticed him and that she left it, she hugged him and her husband shook his hand. What a guy. Good things are coming his way..maybe someone will buy him a new pair of shoes at some point?! When I was clearing dishes off our table that were ours and a person before us, there he was again, at the door, asking to take them from me to place on the counter. Always looking to help, and paying attention to what is needed around him. I know there are a lot of nice people on the Camino, but he was a stand out person. Maybe because he’s so young? Maybe because he’s always smiling? He’s just a great example of what we all could strive to be like more instead of being self absorbed? It was a lesson to me to look around and see what is needed around me. Yesterday I tried. We were all sitting on a street in Viana for a coffee break, Holly and I like to take off our shoes and one layer of socks to let our feet breathe while propped up on another chair when we have our coffee. Across from us I noticed a lady taking off her shoes and socks too. She only had the chair she was sitting on. She didn’t want to touch her feet on the ground so she was holding them up and rolling her ankles around. I got up and offered her my chair. Instant smile of gratitude. It feels good to think of others. It feels good to show people they are noticed and cared for. I think my lessons lately have been focusing around others instead of self. Helping when I can. We get so busy in ‘real life’ taking care of our needs or our families, but that’s expected. Do something nice for a stranger, it’s to me more rewarding and surprising to the recipient..and the smile they give you (especially if you don’t speak the same language) sticks with you the rest of day.
    We passed through more of the La Rioja region with the vineyards planted in that rich, red soil. Scenery was awesome and walking on dirt roads with the sound of crunching gravel beneath my feet makes me happy and it feels like home. We had a couple parks we could stop at along the way, and rather than fly by
    them in true Tammy fashion, we stopped and rested. We saw the couple (Dave & Amy) from Bellingham, Wa. and chatted with them awhile. Her feet/ankles are swelling up on her so she’s resting often. Nice couple. We met them in Pamplona, but haven’t run into them much. They are doing Everest after this and some other adventures after that.
    All of this made a normally grueling day, so much more enjoyable. Between the weather, kind people, and short conversations, we arrived in Najera in no time it seemed. Holly and I rented a 2 bedroom apartment 🤩 for the night for €50 each which has a washer and dryer, balcony, and large kitchen/living room. We are in heaven! I went to the pharmacy yesterday to try and get some kick ass cough medicine but ended up getting effervescent tablets that dissolve in water to drink. It is supposed to ‘clean the lungs’ as the tech said, and break up the chest congestion to avoid infection. I’ve not heard of this medication in the states, but she said ‘clean first, then when clean, you can stop the cough with cough medicine’. I’m noticing it breaking it up, I no longer have an unproductive dry cough, so there is hope? I’m on day 10 of this crap. I’m tired of it!
    That’s all I have for today, tomorrow is a 21km day, so it’ll feel like a breeze after today! Miss you friends, thanks for reading.
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  • Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    11 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Today was an easy 21km in, again, wonderful weather! I’m loving this weather, I’ve never enjoyed the Camino Frances so much! Usually this section is unbearably hot. I’m so grateful for the cool, fall temperatures. Tomorrow there is a chance of rain in the morning, doesn’t look like too much, so we will manage. Today we walked through Azofra where we had a coffee break and chatted with Liz from California who we met on the way out of town this morning. Sweet lady who shared her story of what brought her to the Camino, which made her cry telling it, it was very touching that she shared it with us. We trudged forward and got to Ciruena which is still a hauntingly strange town even 11 years after seeing it the first time. I had hoped it had changed, but it had not. Beautiful golf course with dozens of condo buildings everywhere but we only saw one person walking the streets. Abandoned buildings, all fairly new in comparison to the ancient buildings we are used to seeing, but mold taking over the outsides. For sale signs everywhere. They were there when I was here 10 & 5 years ago. Beautiful community pool and playgrounds, but no children. I only counted about a dozen parked cars. I didn’t get a photo as all I could think of was getting the hell out of there. Why so abandoned? What happened here? All this new construction (or at least a decade old) but no one has bought here, no sign of life, just a golf course. I need to look this up. After the ghost golf village we were about 5Km from Santo Domingo de la Calzada, our final destination for the day. I like it here. Some great history and beautiful old buildings, many restaurants, one of which is a Michelin restaurant we are going to tonight and of course a stunning church. I did the tour of the museum and church on a previous visit so I didn’t venture in to do it again. Holly didn’t seem interested in the tour so we got our credential stamped there and went in search of tapas and wine to tide us over until our 7:30 dinner reservation. We called our husbands, got the low down on the happenings at home, and headed back to the room. Once again we are in an apartment with our own bedroom, kitchen/living room. $53/each. So worth it. Tomorrow night we are in an albergue with who knows how many people so we are enjoying the peace and privacy while we can!! I like the mix of private and shared living with others. Staying in albergues are the key to meeting people. The experience is so much better when you get to hear all the stories and laughter. My biggest concern is my cough and disturbing others. Last night was good though, I think these effervescent tablets dissolved in water at night are helping break it up in my chest. I’m hopeful that tomorrow night there is a loud snoring man who steals the stage from my intermittent coughing attacks! That’s all I got for now, Ciao!!😘😘Leia mais

  • Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

    11 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Backtracking to last night, we had an excellent dinner for such a reasonable price. We had to wait until 7:30, we were very tired and very hungry by then, but well worth the wait! After dinner, back to our room and to bed. I slept so well. No coughing fits, and I slept long enough to dream. My dreams are crazy every time I’m on the Camino! I love it. My nights are an adventure too haha!!
    Rain today! You know I love hiking in the rain…not! I toughed it out though and didn’t taxi 😂! However, the rain gear is much easier to wear when it’s not 90*! Thank god it didn’t feel like a sauna. I always questioned rain gear in the heat..I would get wet under it from sweating so it didn’t keep me dry! Today we were blessed with cool temperatures, even cold at times with wind. I was happy I had the jacket and rain pants, it cut the wind and did its job keeping me dry. What a concept! We did 22.4km with no major hills to climb. We passed through a few villages for the opportunity to warm up get a coffee and something to eat. So nice to have some shelter in the rain and not be stuck in it with nothing along the way. Our spirits were high despite the conditions, and conversation was flowing which helped pass the time. Tomorrow we have 30km to walk to a very small village of Atapuerca. This village has big time history. The discovery of the oldest human remains in Western Europe were discovered there in 1976 dating back 1.1-1.2 MILLION years ago. Here is some info on it if interested

    https://www.britannica.com/place/Atapuerca

    It’s going to be a tough day but it will make going into Burgos, the next big city, more manageable. That city is difficult to walk into. It takes forever to get to the other end of town once you get there..and lots of pavement which is hard on the feet.
    Tonight we are in an albergue but no bunk bed! They are all twin beds which are so nice. No squeaky metal frame making noise every time you turn over. They offer a dinner here so we are staying in. I chose the paella. I’m so ready to try it, it’s one of my favorite Spanish dishes! Actually, I’d eat anything, I’m not a picky pilgrim!! Burning around 4000 calories a day will do that!!
    Ok friends, that’s all I’ve got today, I’ll check in tomorrow so you know if I survived!
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  • Belorado to Atapuerca

    13 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Last night was a great communal dinner with about 15-18 others we have met along the way and a few new faces. From what I gathered we were seated with people from Canada, Australia, UK, USA, and Germany around the table. Great conversations, all wonderful people. The Hospitalario/a were absolutely amazing. The work they do day in and day out starting at 6am-10pm is impressive. From checking pilgrims in to cleaning to laundry to breakfasts and dinners is non stop and yet they do it tirelessly from March to November, 7 days a week, with a smile and a great attitude the entire time. The only downside was it was freezing all night. They offered blankets on each bed but I never use those. There is no way they are washed often, so I just had my leggings, tshirt and my sleeping liner for warmth. My fault, I could have sucked it up and used the blanket, but I’m kinda weird that way😆 No coughing fits last night just a couple hacks here and there but nothing that was enough to continuously disturb my sleeping mates. Thank God. There’s no worse feeling than being stuck in a room with several others coughing with no escape!!
    Today was really cold walking, I had 3 layers on most of the day and had to put the rain gear on for awhile. I thought, by the looks of the clouds, we were going to get dumped on, but it was just enough to justify the rain gear for a couple hours. Holly and I powered through it and ended up stripping down to two layers for most of the day after that. Still chilly, but like I’ve said before, I’ll take this any day over hot temps. You can always layer up but you can only take so much off!! I’m not drinking water like I should though. I’m not sweating and it’s cold so I forget. I don’t feel dehydrated so that’s good. We walked through beautiful forests, climbed a mountain, and had dirt tracks most of the day. It was perfect. After 30km we arrived in Atapuerca, a small village with an adorable albergue. The hospitalaria is sweet, she checked us into a room with 1 other lady from Germany (there is room for one more, so we may have another person staying with us). There is a communal dinner tonight which is cooking now and the aroma is filling the home beautifully and making me hungry (of course-I’m always hungry these days!!). We are washing our 2 pieces of long sleeve clothing now so we are sitting in this comfy den with blankets, and a cup of tea, with a relaxing music playing. I want for nothing right now. My body served me well today and I’m grateful. No blisters, just slightly sore muscles, but no pain. I’ve had 9 days of hiking now and I think I’m finally conditioned for this. My legs are strong and taking the hills with ease. The pain in my back, which was burning a few days ago, has now subsided. I’m not taking ibuprofen each night anymore either. I feel great. Tomorrow is an easier 20km day into the beautiful city of Burgos. The cathedral there is stunning. Besides the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, which is the final destination, it is the most magnificent in my opinion. The city is so beautiful. My first visit to Burgos all I could do was stare in awe at the architecture, shops, restaurants, the square, and of course in the cathedral in the middle of it all. I’m excited to see what Holly thinks. We are easily impressed Americans. Most Europeans see this sort of thing every day. Our architecture doesn’t even compare, so it is quite mind blowing. Sterling and I ended our 100 + mile Camino here in 2018, and toured the cathedral, it was a great memory and experience for us so I’m looking forward to seeing it again.
    It’s time to check on the laundry and prepare the backpack for tomorrow, so I can do it all over again. 3 more weeks of hiking. Miss you all. 🩷
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  • Atapuerca to Burgos

    14 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    We arrived in beautiful Burgos! Even though we took the more desirable river route into the city, it was a looong 20km!! We couldn’t check in at 1pm when we arrived so we went for a small bite to eat and watched an extravagant wedding taking place at the cathedral. It was really something special! Luckily we were able to get into our room at 2 so we could shower, call home, and send out a few texts. We were looking for a sports clothing store, but the only one was 2km away, outside the city. After investigating the logistics of this, we decided not to do that. It is seriously cold in the mornings (and most of the day) so we were going to buy another layer. Too much hassle. We will put another tshirt on or something until we stumble upon something more convenient. We went to the cathedral, got a stamp, and then found a place in the square for a couple glasses of wine to help those muscles. We ran into Erin and Carolyn who joined our table. They are from Quebec City. Carolyn is 80 years old!! Erin has been sick since Roncesvalles (2nd stop on the Camino). We ran into her coughing a few days ago and my heart went out to her. I know all too well how frustrating it is to be hiking with a nagging cough. I asked her if she had got medicine yet and shared with her my remedy that seemed to help. She appreciated my concern because she said everyone has been looking at her like ‘Typhoid Mary’! She still has the cough and she’s going to skip way ahead tomorrow due to needing to fly home the 26th. She has missed a lot of days. So sad. Great gal, really active in the church, it was nice to talk to her a bit more…although I didn’t want another strain of crap to fight off so I kept my distance a bit. The sun was hitting her just right to where every time she spoke I could see spit coming out of her mouth. No thanks!! I got up a couple times with my glass of wine and stood back. Yes, maybe I was treating her like Typhoid Mary too 😂. Holly and I went and found a place to eat by the cathedral where then a funeral was taking place. Priests and other members of the church in full dress. One popped into the restaurant we were in to get water so I got a photo with him. I don’t think he was a priest, not sure what his position was, but I liked his outfit 😆
    I’m writing this in the morning because I was too tired to blog last night. We have 31km today into Hontanas. Against my better judgement we are waiting for the hotel breakfast. We should have started walking an hour ago but we don’t have any stops or opportunity for coffee/food for 11km. It’s Sunday so everything is either late to open or not open at all. It’s not like we are trying to beat the heat of the day or anything!! Plus a little more time in this magical city is fine by me. We enter the Meseta today. 5 days of flat nothingness. It’s the contemplative section of the walk. We will just be walking on dirt roads through fields that have already yielded their crop for the year and have been mowed down. Small, sweet, towns with nothing much to look at. No flashy cathedrals or monuments. It’s time to look inward.
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  • Burgos to Hontanas

    15 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    We have entered the Meseta! Some people skip this stage as it is considered boring, and visually it is, especially after being wowed by the cities of Pamplona, Logrono, and Burgos up to this point. Some skip it due to time constraints too, but personally I am glad I have the opportunity to do it. It ties in the first and the last 1/3 perfectly. The first 1/3 is referred to as the “Body” portion where the body is getting conditioned, becoming stronger, and of course is the most sore! The second third is often referred to as the “Mind” section where the mind is opened up to receive the gifts this pilgrimage has to offer, and often, for me, becomes the emotional section (fair warning!!). The last third is referred to as the “Soul” section, or the spiritual portion, where the soul is lifted and the blessings are realized. So, I feel, if you skip this ‘boring’ section by the time you reach the end, you don’t get the full benefits of the pilgrimage. I’ve done Camino’s that were only a couple weeks in the past (half of the Frances, full Primitivo & Portuguese) and while they were beautiful and an amazing experience, I was left feeling like it wasn’t enough. This is why I like pilgrimages that are 4-5 weeks straight. My friend Nathalie from Brussels typically does 10 days a year and picks up where she left off each year. Lucky for me I have had the pleasure of walking with her on the full Primitivo, 10 days of the Norte, and 10 days of the Frances. I’ve also walked the Primitivo with Luba (Slovakia) and 3 weeks of the Frances. I met these two incredibly strong women in 2016. I’m so grateful to have had their company on my walks. I miss them!! For Nathalie, walking for 10 days at a time works for her and her career, it is satisfying, and she isn’t coming from so far away to do it. For Americans, New Zealander’s, etc., it is a long way to travel for only 2 weeks. It takes me a week just to adjust from the jet lag! So, now you know why I go on these walks for so long!! I’m not crazy, I just want to experience what I know is waiting for me in Santiago.😊🙏🏻
    Today was a great day. I’m feeling strong and I feel like I am definitely in the groove. Still no blisters or anything I’m concerned about physically. I feel so fortunate! Many have blisters, are hobbling down the path, dealing with blisters, inflammation and shin splints. It sure makes this already hard endeavor so much more challenging. We passed through a small village today and there was a painting on the end of a building that said “Denise…” I suspected right away what Denise they were referring to. Denise Thiem. An American pilgrim from Arizona that was murdered on the Camino by a resident wacko from the Astorga area. My heart sunk remembering her, and remembering when this happened. It is the only time it has happened and if I recall correctly this murderer changed the arrows that we follow and lured her to his property. It took time to find her wack job, but they did, thanks to her family and senator (Arizona) John McCain pressuring the Spanish government to let the FBI step in. So, the mural pained for her was not only an opportunity to remember and honor her, but a reminder that while I feel safer here than anywhere in the USA, to always be mindful of my surroundings. Here is the story of sweet Denise:

    https://www.thedailybeast.com/the-mysterious-mu…

    Arriving to Hontanas is always such a surprise! You walk and walk and walk forever and you’re unable to see any sign of the village and then all of a sudden you come upon a valley and bam, there it is. The end of the day. Is such a welcomed sight! I booked us a room in an albergue which is probably one of the best in town. We have a room with 2 queen beds, our own shower, and laundry is done by the Hospitalaria. There is a communal dinner (Yay! Love these!!) at 7 and right now I’m relaxing in this room that I am so grateful for. We heard that everything in the previous town and this one was booked up, or as they say here “Completo”. I’m so glad I had a sleepless night a few months ago and booked all our nights in advance. It has saved us a few times!! I can’t get connected to WiFi in the room so I’ll head upstairs to log in and post this. More tomorrow..Ultreia 🩷
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  • Hontanas to Castrojeriz

    15 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Last night the communal dinner and company at our table was wonderful! We had George from UK(?), Josh from the Midwest, Bill from Connecticut/previously New York, and Annie from Copenhagen, Denmark. The conversation was hilarious, Josh and George could have their own comedy show. Bill kept it all going, while Holly tried to mother them by telling them they needed to wear hats and sunscreen because their faces were too red. The evening was full of laughter and the food was an amazing homemade Paella served in a huge pan. It was enough to feed at least 2 dozen of us with some leftover. The photo doesn’t do it justice from my angle. Today’s walking was a short and sweet 10km. We passed through the ruins of San Anton, which is such an incredible sight. Sad to see it in ruins, but happy to see some of it still preserved. I laid out the itinerary for a short day today (you’re welcome, Holly 😂) this was so we could do the big hill (2953 ft) in the morning at sunrise and hopefully capture the stunning views back at what we have walked the last few days. Also, it stages us into Boadilla del Camino with a 19km day.
    Once we arrived in Castrojeriz it was so early, too early to check in, so we walked from one end of the town to the other absorbing the architecture and shops. It’s a larger town than I remember, with 3 churches. This short day also afforded us the opportunity to visit a beautiful church with artifacts from the 15th century, pray, and light a candle for a young man from our hometown who is in the hospital with severe injuries. I thought of him all morning during our walk. When we entered the church and I kneeled to pray, he was top of mind. I fully believe in miracles and he really needs one, as does his wonderful family to get through this with him. Lord hear our prayers.
    I haven’t been to a mass yet on this trip, haven’t toured any churches either, and I felt that emptiness. Both Holly and I commented as we exited the church that it filled us up. We are on a pilgrimage after all, and it wasn’t feeling like one until this moment. I have seen so many over the years, I haven’t felt the pull to see them again or get duplicate photos, but it’s not about the admiration of the art, the architecture, or ancient relics, it’s about connecting with my Creator. I needed that “shot in the arm”. It grounded me and brought me back to center.
    We walked the town, I had a coffee and Holly was fortunate enough that we found a place that has oat milk (she’s dairy and gluten intolerant so finding a milk substitute is a win!) so she could have her Cola Cao which is like a hot chocolate drink. Her “coffee”. We checked into our albergue where we again have a private room with another communal dinner. We weren’t going to do a communal dinner again tonight if it was Paella or the usual pilgrims menu (choice of fish, chicken, pork, or a thin steak with French fries and a soup or salad). Much to our surprise the cook is Korean so we will have Bibimbap with beef and miso soup. Looking forward to something diffffferent, and of course an opportunity to talk to other pilgrims that we usually just exchange “Buen Camino” to as we walk by them or they pass by us.
    We are nearly halfway!! The city of Sahagun is considered the halfway point, but we are at the point where we have 279 miles to go, of the approximately 500 mile trail. After tomorrow we will have only 18 days left before walking into Santiago de Compostela and we have been walking 13 days straight. It is too soon to be thinking of that though, 18 days of walking is a long time!! Hoping and praying our bodies can endure and we remain healthy and strong. Holly slipped a couple days ago down a small hill on the river route going into Burgos. When I looked back at her fall her knee was bent back and all I could think of was Noooo not the knee. But as she slowly got up she said it was her tailbone that took the hit. She had to stand for a couple minutes to regain composure as she felt she was going to pass out. Luckily, while it is still bruised, it only bothers her when she sits directly on it. We don’t do a lot of sitting around, so she’s got this. She’s a tough little Irish woman!! ❤️🍀 Things like that can happen so fast, so using the trekking poles properly and taking it slow on the technical stuff is so important for getting through this unscathed. Or at least minimally unscathed!!
    Miss you all. More tomorrow, Caio!!❤️😘
    Leia mais

  • Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino

    17 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Last night, dinner didn’t disappoint! It was everything I had hoped for and while it didn’t look like much when placed in front of this hungry pilgrim, I was unable to finish! We were seated by a father and son who are from Madrid, an Australian, French woman, and another guy who I didn’t catch where he was from. Conversation around the table was focused on Holly and the Spanish guys as she tried to practice her Spanish and find out bits about their lives. I chimed in when I understood what was being said, but focus for me was on the food at 7pm and hopefully bed by 8!! While it was a short day, I was tired and hungry as usual and honestly didn’t want to work so hard to converse!
    As for today, there’s nothing like catching a sunrise on top of a mountain after a long climb. What a rewarding walk first thing in the morning. It’s like our albergue knew people liked to head out early on this day to catch the sunrise on top because breakfast was at 6:30 and normally it’s 7-8am. We woke up at 6am and were first in the breakfast room. Cold walk again but we opted for shorts rather than leggings because we figured the climb would warm our legs up in no time. Funny how fast we can walk when it’s cold, hoping to get that blood circulating and warm us up. We were fine. In fact I was better than fine. I’ve done this climb 3 times in the past and each time it kicked my butt so I went into it with respect. Much to my surprise I managed that mountain better than the other 3 times, and I was 11 years younger the first time! I guess those morning 4-5 mile walks back home all year a few times a week have helped! I didn’t even break a sweat or have to peel off my jacket. To be fair, one of those times I did it was in the heat of the day and the little pesky flies swarmed my sweating head and body. I was batting them away the whole time. This time, not one. They weren’t awake yet! Once at the top we were just in time for the beautiful sunrise and the spotlight on the ground below highlighting what we had walked for a few days. What a peaceful sight. Of course what goes up, must come down, so we headed down quite a hill back to the flat desolate land of the meseta. We stopped at the hermitage Ermita San Nicholas, a church which is now both a church and albergue previously run by Benedictine Monks, but now is run by Italian hospitaleros. It’s rustic, but they serve communal dinner by candlelight to those who stay and offer the ancient ritual of washing pilgrims’ feet. I got a few photos, donated some coins, and got a stamp from this special place. About 1km from there we came upon the small village of Itero de la Vega. We were 10km (halfway) into our walk and there was a popular bar/restaurant that had food and coffee so we stopped there for a break. I’m so glad we did. I had a cafe americano, and a delicious jamon y queso bocadillo that had tomato and lettuce on it (usually it’s just a thin slice of ham and cheese so it felt fancy!). That carried me through the day perfectly. We arrived after 20km to Boadillo del Camino to our private room. We felt we had an easy day only walking 20km, but our feet were ready. Part of keeping our feet and bodies happy is not pushing them 30+km. The days we do that we are just asking for trouble (blisters, shin splints, tendinitis, etc). We need to do it here and there but doing that most days is insane. One girl we passed today did 40km the day before. That’s just mad! I’m not sure why anyone would, it’s not enjoyable. I’ve done 35-38km on a couple times on previous caminos and I will never again. So, we arrived at our accommodation and checked in. Our backpacks were transported today and we went to the area where they are all piled up. Mine wasn’t there, but thankfully Holly’s was. I have an AirTag in it so I wasn’t too worried about losing it forever but it was quite an inconvenience to wait a couple hours for it to be retrieved from where it was dropped off in the town ahead. Not a big deal, just meant I got my shower a couple hours later. While waiting we ran into Bill from Connecticut. He took a rest day yesterday at the place we stayed at 2 nights ago and walked 18 miles today! I didn’t think we’d see him again due to his rest day, but he made up for lost time and hoofed it! I like him. He was a teacher for over 40 years, definitely a man I feel safe around. He has 3 adult daughters, and you can tell he was a good daddy to them. They always come up in his conversations and he’s proud of them.
    No communal dinner tonight but the place we are staying at has a restaurant which seems to be serving all day (no siesta!), so I’m hoping for an earlier dinner and early to bed. We have about 25km into Carrion de Los Condes tomorrow. That’s all I have for today, I’ll check in tomorrow ❤️
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  • Carrion de los Condes

    18 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    We started out with the moon as our light at 7ish, it was dark and cold but it was nice to see the sun rise to kiss the landscape behind us. We kept turning around to watch the changing sky and take in this total peacefulness. We could see headlamps ahead in the distance, but ran into no one. This Camino is so crowded right now, I still can’t get over how many people are on it. One of my photos shows what we encountered as the day went on. Unbelievable. We call it the herd! We try to keep our distance from the big herd of people..my inner introvert wants to either pass them all or hang way back!! I enjoy meeting new people, but not on the trail. That’s more of a time where I like to keep my circle small. I don’t want to get into a group where you feel you can’t stop when you want, or where we feel pressured to try to keep pace with people who aren’t our pace or go slower. The more we go along, the more I keep hearing of people suffering with shin splints. Sometimes those develop into stress fractures if you don’t rest and ice. We are only almost halfway, I hope they can slow down, or take a rest day. Praying we don’t start developing overuse injuries too. So far so good! I did last year and it was so painful. Had it not happened in the last week, I am not sure I could’ve handle a few weeks of extreme pain! We rest quit a bit when we are done for the day. I’m glad Holly doesn’t turn from pilgrim to tourist when we get to towns! She’d be on her own for those ventures!! I like to visit churches when it works that we are there when they are open, but I don’t need to see every monument or every single site mentioned in our books. Today while we started out with very crisp temps, it ended up being about 74 degrees when we quit. Doesn’t sound too hot (and it’s definitely not in comparison to previous years), but it’s enough to start sweating and needing sunscreen. Tomorrow will be 2 degrees warmer in the morning (50) and 2 degrees warmer in the afternoon (76). We wore leggings this morning and by 12-1pm we were wishing we had shorts!! Tomorrow will be a couple kilometers more than today so I’m definitely wearing shorts! Sorry I don’t have a lot of ambition/energy to write today, time to check the laundry, pack for tomorrow and head to dinner at 7. Talk tomorrow 🩷😘Leia mais

  • Terradillos de los Templarios

    18 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Happy to be checked in at our albergue for the night! What a long day of about 27km (17 miles). We started out with breakfast at the place we ate dinner at last night and it was perfect. Dinner was so good last night we knew it’d be good. Speaking of dinner, Holly and I shared a bottle of red wine-Rioja Crianza (the good stuff) and it only cost €20 ($22), had a nice, big, fat, juicy, steak (hard to find a decent steak here “pilgrim” steaks are usually thin, cooked in a pan, with lots of fat on them), and we had one of the best warm salads I have ever had. In total was about $55 each. The bottle of wine would’ve cost that in the USA. I got a photo of the wine and salad but not the steak..I wasn’t thinking of photos when that bad boy arrived! Glad we had a good dinner, our bodies were really craving some vegetables and protein. Weather was nice today until the last couple hours where it got pretty warm. Although only reaching about 75*, it was enough to drench my hair with sweat. There was a long desolate stretch of 17km with no services except a sweet trail angel who set up a cart with tables and chairs. We stopped for a tall glass of fresh squeezed OJ and coffee. We bought snacks (banana, trail mix bar, chocolate) at the store yesterday so we had enough “food”for the day. The landscape was monotonous, and the road looked never ending. You could see miles ahead and it was nothing but pasture land and dead sunflower fields. I like what Holly said, she said it reminded her of Texas where you can see your escaped dog running down the road for 3 days! 😂 I was glad to get off that soul sucking road, but on the positive side, it did give me lots of time to pray and contemplate. I’ve needed that. The next 10km stretch was better as it was lined with trees, which much to my relief, provided some shade. We arrived in Terradillos de Los Templarios at about 2:15. What a welcomed sight!! I stayed here on my first Camino in 2013 and liked it a lot for its decent food, spacious dining area, yard, and clean rooms. Holly and I have our own private room/bathroom for €22 each. Not bad at all. We have (and will again on this trip) pay more for a bunk bed in a dormitory and share a bathroom with several. Laundry is in the works now and tonight is another communal dinner. Nothing fancy, but it will provide all we need to make it 24km to Bercianos tomorrow. We will pass through Sahagun and that is the official halfway point, although I read that the real halfway mark is at the 400km marker, which we passed today! Who knows, all I know is we are making good progress, both are doing well, and we are totally grateful for this experience!! More tomorrow 😘❤️Leia mais

  • Characters from the movie The Way ❤️👣Halfway Baby!!Holly and her new hat!

    Bercianas del Real Camino

    20 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ 🌩️ 52 °F

    We made it past Sahagun today to Bercianas del Real Camino today which means we are over the halfway mark!! Woohoo!! It was a tough 25km, the town couldn’t have come at a better time, we were totally wiped out. No real reason, the weather was great, nice and cool all day, but we didn’t arrive until about 3. That’s my limit!! By 2 I want to be where I need to be for the evening, showering, doing laundry, and off my feet. We started at 7:30, still dark, so 7.5 hours is enough. We stopped in Sahagun because we needed food for the last 10km and Holly left her hat at the place we stayed last night so she needed sun protection. That little stop cost us a good hour, which set us behind but food and hats are important so it was necessary. We didn’t leave the albergue we are staying once we got here. Laundry and dinner were able to be done here thankfully. We are in a dorm room with several others. ONE girls toilet and 2 showers. Really? Who designed this place? Obviously not a woman!! Princess needs to tough it out for one night and I’ll be back to a private room tomorrow night. 😂 At least I’m in a bunk, albeit a top bunk, with a curtain and little light and plugins for my phone. I feel like a little kid hiding right now on my phone when I should be going to sleep. The snoring has already started in a bunk near me..as well as some passing of gas..and someone trying to hide their coughing (ok my heart goes out to that person lol been there!) this should be a restful night. Ugh. The smell of menthol is filling the room soothing someone’s sore muscles, luckily that helps with the other smells. God help me. I’m too old for this communal living shit. I have booked all our accommodations ahead to Santiago so I think we have only one more bunk room situation out of the next 15 days. This too shall pass..but on a positive note..we are on the downhill slide. We’ve got this!! 😘😘Leia mais

  • Mansilla de las Mulas

    21 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    Ya know you’d think it’d be easy walking the meseta today, which is flat terrain, but dang it was taxing. We did about 27km total and 12.5Km of it was without any towns or services. I bought a €5 sandwich at about 8km and we stopped halfway through that 12.5Km for a break at a picnic table. We took the shoes off, ate, talked, and got ready for the last bit. We entered Religos and had another 6 to go, but the way I break it down, and the lies I feed myself during the day is “this is shorter than our morning walk back home” I can totally do this. Problem is the last 5Km is the hardest. Always. Our bodies are aching, our feet are pissed, and we totally have our resting bitch faces on. There is nothing pretty about the last 5Km 😂. My photos of the walk today were few. Nothing you haven’t already seen so I walked around and got some of the town we are in tonight. The terrain today is totally the same as the last 4 days. But, we are leaving the meseta after tomorrow!! Woohoo we made it through this section, didn’t go crazy, and didn’t skip a bit of it. It was beautiful, it was a drag, it was enlightening, and I’m sooo glad it’s over. We will walk only 17km into León tomorrow and I can’t wait to see life again. We will likely get in by 1 and be able to visit the cathedral and go to the pilgrims mass. I’m really looking forward to getting a pilgrim blessing by the priest. They do this mass also for those who are too injured to continue and to bless them since they won’t make it to Santiago (I’ve been one of those people in 2013 and 2016). But this year, so far, I feel great and I’ll take the blessing for the final 2 weeks! We are going to enter Galicia soon. Love the terrain there. While it’ll be more challenging than the flat ground we’ve walked, it gives variation and it’s much more beautiful. Lots of green forested areas and more mountainous, of course. Guess what makes it so green and beautiful though? Rain!!! The forecast looks good from what I can see, but last night the forecast said no rain and we woke up to it and needed to wear rain gear this morning. Nothing crazy and it didn’t last long, but the weather app was definitely wrong! I just mentally prepare myself for rain anytime I’m in this province. It can dump buckets at a moments notice. Having said that, after last year, I’ve had a talking with myself and said I wasn’t going to melt, die, or wilt. It’s only water. As long as it’s not hot, I can handle wearing rain gear without the sauna effect and I can do this. Shoes will get wet, but the shoes I chose will dry quicker than most anyone else’s (Brooks Cascadia my friends are the bomb-not the waterproof version-that’s like hiking with plastic bags around your feet everyday). So there it is, I said it out loud, this last 2 week stage is for embracing my absolute hate for hiking in the rain, should I be presented with it. I’m late to get this blog done tonight. We had to go to a laundromat to do our laundry because we have a private room with no laundry service. So that took time and then of course find dinner at 7 before we died from starvation. We were given this recommendation by the innkeeper when we checked in so we found it and walked in at 6:30. Of course they don’t serve until 7, so we ordered a glass of wine while we waited. It was small, loud, and dark, with Spanish locals talking a mile a minute. We looked at each other like we don’t want any food cooked from here, the bartender was drinking wine, there was one little table left and it was totally cramped! We took our wine out to a different table and decided we’d finish it and hunt down something else. Pretty soon lots of pilgrims started coming into the establishment and we were like what the heck, where are all these people going to sit? Do they know how tiny it is? Then the wine drinking bartender opened up the dining room and voila there was a dining room with white table cloths and a charming area to eat. We then immediately got in line 😂. It was filling, simple, and cheap. So glad we stayed!! Back to our room, packed up for tomorrow, and ready for some city tomorrow. It may be a little jolting after all these small villages and peace and quiet. I think I want visual stimulation, but we will see..Leia mais

  • San Isidro BasilicaSan Isidro Basilica

    Leon

    22 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    I’m writing this the day after arriving in Leon, there was too much to see and do in this beautiful city yesterday so I’m doing a quick morning blog. The walk yesterday was great, more than 17km as I posted previously, it was a couple km more, which is a lot at the end of the day 😂!! We started in the fog and it didn’t lift for a few hours. It was cold and eerie, but very quiet and peaceful too. We arrived in Leon, and noticed there was a bike event going on. Probably more than a thousand people (kids too) on pedal bikes and all were making their way to the cathedral, just as we were. Talk about jolting me into the real world!! It was highly overwhelming after all this country road walking, but it was also really cool. Everyone was having such a good time. Our room wasn’t quite ready so we went to a restaurant where we were lucky enough to get a table that looked out onto the square and we could people watch. I ordered a refreshing sangria and something to eat. It was an authentic Italian restaurant and omgosh it was good. I had tortellini in a pomodoro sauce that was so fresh!! Holly was happy to hear they had gluten free pasta so we was loving it too. We finished up there, checked in, showered, called home, and went out on the town. The cathedral is so impressive. It’s always so beautiful to see, no matter how many times I’ve seen it. But I wanted to go to the San Isidro Basilica (BTW, some historians say the Holy Grail is kept there..it’s a controversial subject-others claim it elsewhere, but how cool would that be to be in the same building as that!?) to see what time mass was and to see if Holly could get another credential for her stamps. She’s nearly filled hers up and I brought 2, so I’m good. Mass was at 7:30, so we did that. It was quite moving for both of us. I love Jesus!!
    Sorry for the short blog today, I’ll do better when we get to a smaller town today and have more time!
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  • Hospital del Orbigo

    23 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Jeez I missed yesterday blogging!! Not much to report though, except we stayed in a cool little albergue! Our hospitalario was really funny and so happy! We washed clothes in the washer and hung them to dry outside, nice day for it. Drank wine while they dried and met a couple people staying there and had great conversations. Low key days are perfect. I’ll post some photos of the albergue ❤️Leia mais

  • Gaudi's PalaceSocks and sandals😂No this isn't my backpack 😂

    Astorga

    24 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Today was an easy day of just over 17km. We got a little rain, nothing too crazy, but enough to put on the rain gear. We had breakfast at the place we ate at right by the bridge last night, it was the earliest open and likely the only in town so that was the winner. We hit the road after that only stopping once for a little roadside donativo stand that was really cool. That’s when the rain started so it was perfect timing to put in the rain gear. Kittens were playing, a dog chasing a ball, pilgrims huddled up grabbing a coffee or fruit being offered. Neat place. Right as we left a pilgrim pulled out a flute and started playing. Nice little touch and ending to this cute stop.
    Astorga is such a cool smaller city. We got in early enough to roam around town, checked out the amazing cathedral and the stunning Gaudi Palace. Love his work. So unique. Then we found the plaza mayor (town square) and had an amazing salad to tide us over until an 8pm dinner. Looking over my itinerary, there is only 11 days until we walk into Santiago. I know it seems like a long time but it goes so fast once you get to the final 1/3. Bittersweet feeling. I miss home, kids, husband, mom, friends, and of course our sweet puppy dog, Sam, but this is really a wonderful experience that I’m so grateful to have. There are other things that I super miss too such as proper makeup, curling my hair, different clothing/shoes, my truck (hahaha that would make things go a little quicker right now!!), my work & coworkers, clients…the list is endless really. But there is something really freeing about going without all the wonderful added bonuses in my life (not the people, but the things). It’s so simple here. I get really happy about buying good chocolate or having a wonderful meal shared with people from all over the globe. This experience never fails to restore my faith in humanity and how nice and helpful people are. On the Camino we live in slow motion. We have time to offer help to others, and notice the little things like seeing a crocus blooming in a place where everything else struggles to grow. It reminds me that if that can bloom and thrive in a stressful environment, then I most definitely can. I’ve also come to believe that anything is possible if you have enough nerve.
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  • This was a sign outside a bathroom! Too funny!😂

    Rabanal de Camino

    25 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    It ain’t all sunshine and roses. I’m not sure how my friend (Hiker Holly on Penguins) will describe today but I’m going to give it to you strait. To be fair, the day started out great. We had a small breakfast in Astorga and hit the road at a good time and good pace. We passed through a couple small villages, had a coffee in one, put our feet up, and felt great when we left. I commented as we were leaving town that the sky looked awfully angry. No sooner did I notice that we started getting a little rain. My first thought was nah it’s not going to last, don’t want to gear up for a little sprinkle. Then it turned into more so in the middle of the trail, off with the pack and dug out the rain gear. Then it stopped. Off with the gear. Great, moving along we entered El Ganso that has the ‘famous’ Camino cowboy bar. There we stopped and Ian an Aussie we met a couple days ago walked in. Alone. We knew his wife was meeting him in Astorga yesterday so we were curious what was up. He explained he (a physiotherapist) was having tendinitis and rented a car for a week to let it heal. He’s following his wife and friend on the Camino this week. She and his friend showed up 10 minutes later and omg that conversation was hilarious. She was giving him so much crap that she had just come from visiting their daughter in Singapore to join him and he can’t walk. She was telling him he can’t eat big pilgrims dinners because he’s not walking and no 3 meals a day if not walking. The banter between these two kept us laughing and enjoying this break to the fullest. Finally it was time to get back on the road and we went our separate ways, Ian in the car of course. Lucky, lucky Ian. We no sooner hit the trail and it started sprinkling again. It won’t be too bad I thought…then it was. Geared back up. Then it stopped, took it off. Back on. We had a nice pace going so we were working up some heat and the rain gear had to come off if it wasn’t raining. Then of course it started again. So frustrating. But what hit us next was something neither of us anticipated. FLIES. I’ve never seen so many flies swarming me. I thought I was being picked on and then as I passed others they were everywhere on other people too. People were waving their poles in front of them, wearing face masks and hoods, it was unbearable. I was getting so pissed. Swear words were coming out my mouth at a rate I’ll never admit to. My hood was up (and that made me more hot but they couldn’t buzz in my ears at least) my poles were being used like a baton twirling in front of me, they were fricken everywhere. I stopped to take off layers since the rain stopped again and there was a lady at a bench taking a break. She had her feet up and said she had like 20 on her shoes. Needless to say, my pace picked up like I was running in the Olympics. Get me the hell out of here was all I could think. I left Holly in the dust, poor thing. I just couldn’t tolerate it. Then I looked over and there is cow shit and cows everywhere. No flies. I found myself talking to the flies saying what you really want is over there, not here you little f*#@%!! I’m getting all worked up again just thinking of it. It was a traumatic 2 hours. What sucked is it was a pretty area to be hiking through and could’ve been really enjoyable! Finally, I see a glimpse of the town. Hallelujah!! I slowed down, still playing baton with my poles and turned back to Holly. We had booked 2 bunk beds for tonight in the small village. All I could think of between the buzzing flies was that the albergue would be full of flies with all the in and out. I was hot, sweating, and didn’t want to wait for a shower or sleep in a room with 20 others and 1000 flies feeling so bitchy. I told her, first hotel I see, I’m going in to see if there is a room. She immediately said, ‘OK!’ We walked into this restaurant/Posada that was packed with pilgrims sheltering from rain and flies. We asked if there was a room. She said she wasn’t sure but she’d text around this small village to find out. She told us to have something to eat or drink and wait about a half hour and she’d let us know. We absolutely did. We needed to chill out anyways. After a bit she informed us that yes indeed there was a room available, we paid her and she told us how to get there. We had laundry to do and she said the people are leaving at 3 so if we wanted laundry done we had to give it to them by 3. It was 2:30. Shit ok. We found the place stripped down, got our laundry from yesterday and today in a bag and Holly ran it down to them, just in time. We were so done. So tired. So over it. But, as with every hard day, the cure is a nice hot shower and clean warm clothes. Before long, all was right again. We had an early dinner (no siesta at this restaurant!!), our clothes were finished washing & drying, we went back to our room and have been relaxing since. Tomorrow it is forecasted to rain all day. We have 31km, a big hike up to the iron cross (where we leave a stone that represents the burdens we carry—I brought 2 😂) then back down to Ponferrada. It’s going to be a challenge to say the least. I’m praying the storm moves through tonight and we have a nice day tomorrow, but I’m prepared for the worst. I gotta leave these stones behind once and for all. Others were booking taxis for tomorrow. No taxi for Tammy, no flaking out. I need to do this.🙏🏻❤️Leia mais

  • Rabanal to Ponferrada

    26 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Right now, as of 9am, It is dumping buckets of sideways blowing rain. Lightning, thunder, howling winds, all the things that make up a beautiful storm in the mountains. I woke up several times last night to rain hitting the roof and pouring off into the courtyard. With outdoor window blinds smacking against the building, I prayed. I asked God to end this torrential storm or at least lighten it up if he intended me to hike up and down a slippery mountain trail in the morning. After my prayer, I thought I heard it stop, so I peacefully drifted back to sleep in anticipation to walk to the iron cross when the alarm went off at 6:30. No such luck and it was even worse when I awoke. Feeling defeated and upset, Holly and I both decided we weren’t hiking up and down a mountain in blowing rain and lightning. Damn. We have 10 days left. Do we chance getting hurt just to lay our stones at the symbolic iron cross and to say we weathered a torrential storm while pounding our chests in victory, um no. Who cares? We may be competitive Americans, but not dumb Americans 😂 We never set out on this journey to prove anything to anyone. I can safely and simply leave my stones (burdens) at the church in Ponferrada today when the taxi drops us off. I want to finish this in Santiago, not in Rabanal or in a hospital. It’s more important for me to walk the last 10 days than screw up the next 10 by making a bad decision today. There is no one I know (except maybe Nathalie!) who would do this 31km day in an unrelenting storm. I want to be a bad ass, really I do, but I know better, I know my abilities, and I know this section of the trail. This 31km is difficult on a good day. I can only imagine the river forming on the trail right now and those who decided to chance it, slipping and falling in it. The taxis are busy today, ours won’t come until 12:30, so I know we are 2 of many opting to skip it. I need to forgive myself for this choice. While I feel it was a smart choice, I also feel like I failed a test. But, I also need to remember God gave me a brain. In addition, I’m not sure how good my health insurance is here in Spain and I don’t want to find out 😂. I just heard a helicopter fly over, my only guess for a chopper to be flying in this remote area is to do a rescue mission. Praying for whoever it is needing help and whoever felt they HAD to do this for their ego and the iron cross. We are strong women, but we aren’t ego-based women. We need to function when we get home.
    Tomorrow will be better, and according to the weather app, it’ll be way better in the 10 days to come. I’ll add photos of Ponferrada when we get there, but for now all I have is a video from the covered deck of our albergue with the rain pouring off the roof…and this was taken when it was “lighter”. God bless those on the trail that they arrive safely and unharmed.🙏🏻

    Ultreia.🩷
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  • Villafranca del Bierzo

    27 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Rain or shine, we were in it to win it today! I must say the rest day yesterday was needed. I was starting to get that pain (tendinitis?) in the bend of where my foot meets the lower leg in the front like I did last year. The last 5 or so days last year I had excruciating pain and I was fearful it was returning. Today, no problems! Amazing what a little rest can do. However, I was itching to walk today! It started out raining, not a downpour, but enough, so of course we geared up. We got to the other end of Ponferrada, it seemed to be clearing up and I was getting hot, so I took off the rain jacket. Of course it started in again, so back on it went and stayed on for the rest of the day. I’m so glad I opted for a rain jacket and rain pants this year versus the poncho. I am really enjoying the extra layer on my legs and top half when exploring villages, rather than having to put a big plastic cover on. I’ve seen ponchos blowing in the wind like a balloon or kite and it seems so annoying! Plus, they don’t cover the legs much so leggings or shorts get wet. I like the dual purpose idea of the pants and jacket. Honestly, whenever I’ve brought a poncho or rain jacket/pants in the past, I’ve only used them a couple times and thought of it was extra weight when packing this year. Not so, they are at the ready every day now!! Despite the day of rain, it was a fantastic hike. I absolutely love this beautiful area. We are getting closer to the Galicia region, known for lush mountains, forests, and of course, rain. I arrived in town feeling great, (no resting bitch face), taking photos of all the beauty and soaking in the last 8 days of this journey. Villafranca Del Bierzo is one of my favorite villages. They are known for their beautiful flower gardens in the center of town (although a bit out of season, still quite impressive) and I’ve counted 3 gorgeous churches. The window sills and decks have flowers cascading off of them and you can tell the residents take pride in their town. Great vibe, and it stopped raining once we got to town so exploring it was a joy. I have a grateful heart today. I felt really down on myself yesterday for skipping that storm, but just as the storm has passed, so has my depressed thoughts. Today I felt recharged and believe that it was a much needed break. I guess God knew when to throw me that curve, my body needed the rest and I never would’ve taken it if it weren’t for that storm. Tomorrow is going to be a be a tough one. Almost 4 miles uphill. We couldn’t get reservations in O’Cebreiro which is the top of the mountain, so we are staying in an albergue in La Laguna a mile or so before O’Cebreiro and the albergue we are staying at is the only thing in this mountain village. We are entering the mystical Cantabrian mountains. The views are absolutely stunning, and some say, compete very closely with the Pyrenees that are at the beginning of this 500 mile trail. I’m so excited to see this section, while difficult, nothing easy is ever that rewarding, right?! O’Cebreiro has quite a legacy. It is known for a miracle that took place in the church when the priest is said to have turned bread and wine into actual blood and flesh. This has made O’Cebreiro famous across medieval Europe and has brought pilgrims flocking to behold the sacred chalice, known by some as the Holy Grail, that held the Holy blood. We will arrive in this village day after tomorrow in time for sunrise. It’s one of my favorite spots on the entire Camino to catch sunrise. I’m excited to share this with you!! Here are some photos of the beautiful walk today and this adorable village. ❤️🌸Leia mais

  • La Laguna

    28 de setembro de 2024, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 39 °F

    We did it! We did 108/110 flights according to our watches. Wow!! It’s funny, Holly and I do the same trail but we are always off by a few. Sometimes I have more flights (or Holly does) but one of us will have more miles/steps. One thing we’ve learned is Apple Watches are not exact science for sure!! Sometimes I beat her by a few miles and accuse her of taking shortcuts 😂. We started out in about 35* F and I had on a short sleeve, long sleeve, running jacket, and my rain coat. I had leggings and rain pants on, 2 pairs of socks and gloves and still wasn’t warm enough! But after a few miles of going as fast as we could, we started to warm up. Eventually I shedded all the layers that I could. What a beautiful day. Mountains, rivers, waterfalls, lush green hills, all things pretty! I took so many photos and I’m only allowed to upload 20!! For once I have more photos than options! We had a ‘traffic jam’ of sheep on our walk and once we arrived to La Laguna a herd of cows came right into the village and around the tables we were all relaxing at. I remember huffing and puffing on this section 10 years ago and feeling like it would never end. This year I had a great stride and felt I floated up this mountain with a smile on my face. Hard, yes, but it pales in comparison to what I did last year on the Del Norte route. Plus, how could I complain with the views I was blessed with? It’s funny, we stopped 2.5Km short of our destination in La Faba to take a rest, and drink water when we look up to a deck above and our Aussie friends Brad and Susie were up there saying hello! We run into them periodically and they always see us first and go out of their way to come talk. We met them in our first week. They are wonderful and always telling us where they scored the best nuts, meats, and cheeses for their walk the next day. Love them. We continued on from there and it was a push. However, like I said, not like I remember it being. Yes, my head was saturated with sweat, but my breathing was steady and I couldn’t stop appreciating and being grateful for the opportunity to hike in this amazing landscape. Tomorrow morning we finish the accent in O’Cebreiro, have a coffee at the top of the mountain and catch the sunrise. It is here that I’ll leave my stones (burdens). It’s more fitting than it felt in Ponferrada the other day anyways. We will have quite a decent of course after we summit, but the views are like you’re on top of the world. So..we have been bumping into this lady the last couple weeks and she always looks pissed off. She has giant, long curly hair, huge boobs (sorry but it’s a noticeable feature, especially how she carries them 😬) and bright red lipstick on every time I see her. I’ll admit I have avoided her and felt like there was something about her that was very off putting. Today in this little place that only has an albergue, she is staying here. She came over to our table because the sun was directly on her where she was sitting and after talking a bit, I realized she was actually so sweet and funny. She shared some of her experiences of her journey and I immediately felt bad for my prejudice. She’s another Aussie, and we had a really nice conversation. Just goes to show, and a reminder to me not to judge a book by its cover. We all have a story and we all deserve compassion and need love. I’m glad she came to our table and I was taught this lesson. It was a hard day for all of us, no matter what fitness level, and at the end of the day, we are all human beings just needing a hug whether we are climbing a mountain or tending to the kids, job, and/or home. I got out of my comfort zone today on so many levels..god bless you all, I love you. ❤️Leia mais