Atlas Obscura Explorations in Shinjuku

This was my 23rd time in Tokyo, and, honestly, I was running out of things to do. So, I decided to dedicate my day to exploring Atlas Obscura-listed sites in the vicinity. As you may be aware, I enjoy using Atlas Obscura as a guide in some cities, particularly those I already know well, because it is like a fun little treasure hunt. I also get to see and experience sights that are off the regular tourist trail.

My first stop was an Alice in Wonderland mural called Hop Step Hop Step located inside the subway station right next to my hotel. Apparently, there are two murals, but I only found one. I must have walked past this mural a dozen times over the years and I would never have noticed it if not for Atlas Obscura.
https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/hop-step-ho…

After viewing the mural, I hopped onto the Marunochi Line and rode three stops to Yotsuya-Sanchome Station. Near this station was a trio of Atlas Obscura sites. The first site I encountered was a staircase next to the Suga Shrine, which was featured in a popular 2016 anime film. There were a surprising number of young people taking photos here.
https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/suga-shrine…

A short walk from the Suga Shrine is Sainen-Ji Temple, which houses the grave of Hattori Hanzo. The first time I heard that name was in Kill Bill, where a character named Hattori Hanzo (played by Sonny Chiba) made a sword for Uma Thurman's character to kill the members of her former assassin squad who betrayed her. I later learned that Hattori Hanzo is the name of a character Sonny Chiba played in the 1980s, and it was taken from a historic figure from the Edo Period who may have also been a ninja.

The google map directions to the temple weren't the best as they led me to the exterior wall of the temple grounds but not to the front gate. I had to circumnavigate more than half of the compound before I found the gate. Within the temple grounds were many graves, but Hattori Hanzo's was well marked and easy to find.
https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/grave-of-ha…

Located on a quiet residential street, the third and final Atlas Obscura site in the vicinity is the Oiwa Inari Shrine, which pays tribute to Lady Oiwa who is the subject of a chilling ghost story in Japan. While looking for this site, I came across lots of small shrines tucked away in the residential streets.
https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/oiwa-inari-…

After viewing these three sites, I went back to Shinjuku Sanchome Station and from there I made my way over to Gunkan Higashi Shinjuku. En route, I made a stop at the Samurai Museum. Atlas Obscura has a listing for a now-closed Samurai Museum featuring replicas of samurai armor and weapons in nearby Kabukicho, but I also read reports that a new one had opened next to the Hanazono Shrine. I popped in and I immediately realized this new Samurai Museum was a tourist trap, with ridiculous tourist prices to go with it. I quickly excused myself and left.
https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/samurai-mus…

After my aborted visit to the new Samurai Museum, I headed to Gunkan Higashi Shinjuku, which is a building designed by a famed mad architect to look like a battleship. It was difficult to get a clear view of the battleship from the street as it was blocked by another building, but I did manage to get a semi-decent peek.
https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/gunkan-higa…

Close to the battleship building is a Inari Kio Shrine, which features a snail-like demon figurine with googly eyes on its hands. This statue appeared in the early 2020s with no folkloric links, so nobody knows if the creature is eating the eyes or doing something else with them.
https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/eye-eating-…Read more