• Siewch
lokakuuta 2017

Funemployment- Cuba

The Midlife Crisis Flashpacking Trip Lue lisää
  • Matkan aloitus
    6. lokakuuta 2017

    Prologue

    6. lokakuuta 2017, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Jeff’s parents - Jeff Sr. and Peggy - very kindly sponsored a family trip for the four of us to Cuba. We chose Cuba because with the relaxation of sanctions, we all wanted to experience Cuba before it truly emerges from isolation and American brands saturate the place. However, it would have been unwieldy for the four of us to travel to a country where we don't speak the language. Beyond that, US citizens and residents cannot willy-nilly visit Cuba as tourists; our travels have to meet one of twelve categories of authorized travel as defined by the State Department. We therefore figured that going on a organized tour would be the wisest option to comply with US law on visiting Cuba.

    When researching tour companies to book with, I asked around to find out which companies: (1) are ethical and socially responsible; and (2) don’t require you to follow a guide with a flag. My friends steered me towards Intrepid. I had heard good things about Intrepid, so I steered Jeff's parents towards them. We chose their “People to People” tour for US citizens because it focused on making contact with locals and learning about their way of life. All accommodation was in local guesthouses.

    I shared the People to People itinerary with a friend who was familiar with Intrepid Travel, and she opined that the itinerary seemed packed, and that it was unusual for almost all meals to be provided. My suspicion is that the tours were structured in this manner because the burden is on Intrepid to properly document that we were indeed engaging in people-to-people activities, and that we weren't let loose on the streets to spread our capitalist ideas, or, worse still, be turned into socialists.

    This was my first package tour since I was a teenager. I realized early on that I preferred to make my own decisions and what to do and where to go, and that I liked the challenge of figuring how to get around. But, I also knew that I would learn a lot more with a professional guide.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Central-America-Cari…
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  • Dallas/Fort Worth to Miami

    7. lokakuuta 2017, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    American Airlines AA19 | DFW/MIA
    First Class (Domestic)
    Boeing 757-200 | N691AA
    ATD/0901 | ATA/1254
    Lounge: Admiral's Club Terminal A

  • Miami to Havana

    7. lokakuuta 2017, Yhdysvallat ⋅ 🌧 31 °C

    American Airlines AA1345 | MIA/HAV
    Business Class
    Boeing 737-800 | N806NN
    ATD/1520 | ATA/1630

    We were refused entry to the MIA Admiral's Club as apparently the entry policy does not include Caribbean destinations. The Admiral's Clubs at HNL and DFW let us in; clearly, this policy is not consistently implemented.Lue lisää

  • The neighbor's window opened into the courtyard of our guesthouse.
    The first unusual vehicle I saw exiting the airport was this broken down jeep.Our guesthouse.Golem, the resident pooch at our guesthouse.Golem, the resident dog at our guesthouse.The street on which our guesthouse was located.The street on which our guesthouse was located.The street on which our guesthouse was located.The view from our guesthouse.The street on which our guesthouse was located.The restaurant where we had dinner.Passport stamp for Cuba.

    Arrival in Havana

    7. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Jeff and I landed in Havana in the afternoon of October 7th. Many passengers cheered and clapped on landing. After clearing immigration and customs, we found an Intrepid rep waiting for us. She waited while we exchanged some currency. After that, we followed her to a yellow Hyundai taxi. Drats. I was hoping my first ride in Cuba would be in a vintage car. We drove for about 30 minutes to Old Havana, where the rep deposited us at a cute little guesthouse, known locally as casa particular.

    At the guesthouse, we were reunited with Jeff's parents, and we also met the other three members of our group. I was relieved when I met this group; I’m a somewhat different breed of traveler from your typical package tourist, and I initially feared that there might be too much of a gulf in travel philosophies. I guess Intrepid attracts a different demographic.

    Our guesthouse was a narrow house in the middle of a block. Our rooms were on the second floor. We had to climb a metal spiral staircase to get to the third floor which had more rooms and a small dining area.

    At 6pm, our guide Tony came by, and he gave us a briefing before we all headed out to dinner nearby. Interestingly, when we asked our guide Tony about what he finds most difficult about American tourists, he replied without hesitation that he comes across Americans who aren’t used to group tours but who book tours to Cuba to stay in compliance with US law. He said that these travelers don’t always take well to group tours. I resolved to be mindful of the challenges Tony would face in herding us and to be a good team player.

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  • Old Square.
    Committee for the Defense of the Revolution logo. Membership is mandatory for anyone over 14.Cathedral Square.Cathedral Square.Inside the cathedral.Main Square.Main Square.St Francis Square.St Francis Square.St Francis Square.The Viaje Fantastico statue in the Old Square.Old Square.Stilt walkers at the Old Square.Old Square. This caricature, which was part of the stilt walker contingent, made me uncomfortable.Street scenes around Old Havana.Street scenes around Old Havana.Street scenes around Old Havana.Street scenes around Old Havana.Street scenes around Old Havana.My amazing $12 lunch.

    Walking Tour of Old Havana

    8. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    After breakfast, Tony came to get us for our walking tour around Old Havana. There were four squares to visit - Cathedral Square, Old Square, Main Square, and St Francis Square. Of the four squares, Old Square stood out because a band of stilt walkers paraded around the square. They were accompanied by a bizarre figure in a blackface and big butt costume. I cringed when I saw the costume. It got me wondering about race relations in Cuba, which is something I didn’t get a strong feel for during my time there.

    The other highlight of the Old Square was a statue of a naked woman with a fork riding a rooster. This statue has an Atlas Obscura entry: https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/viaje-fanta…

    Old Havana varies between pretty and gritty, and, most importantly, it is still lived in, so the entire landscape felt authentic. While there were vendors selling tourist trinkets and stuff, there were also many locals intermingled with the tourists. It reminded Jeff and I of Getsemani in Cartagena, albeit a less gentrified version.

    We stopped for lunch at an Italian place and I was surprised when I was given the option of ordering grilled seafood for lunch. My ears perked up in disbelief when the word “lobster” was uttered. While our package cost a pretty penny, I never imagined that lobster would be included. The a la carte price was $12, I think, which is a steal by any standard. Anyway, the meal was fantastic. It included a grilled lobster, two large clams, a fillet of fish and lots of shrimp, along with some pasta.

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  • Museum of the Revolution.
    I thought it was odd that the tank turret would point at the old city wall.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution - stone figure used for target practice.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution - US plane downed by Cuba.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.Museum of the Revolution.

    Museum of the Revolution

    8. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    After lunch, we trooped out to our bus to meet our driver, also named Tony, to visit sites in the Vedado area adjacent to Old Havana. Our bus for the entire tour was a 24-seater, so we had lots of space to stretch out!

    Our first stop was the Museum of the Revolution. While the museum was interesting and I learned many snippets of information, I felt that I wasn't getting this information in their proper context, and hence I was missing the bigger picture. Not surprisingly, the exhibits had an anti-American slant. A timeline of events and how various characters were involved in that timeline would have helped tremendously.

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  • Callejon de Hamel.
    Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.Callejon de Hamel.

    Callejon de Hamel

    8. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Our next stop was Callejon de Hamel, a small, narrow street that had become a community art project. Most of the people there were of African descent. There was a lot of interesting street art. Tony also told us that the people there followed Santeria, but since I wasn’t familiar with that religion, I could not identify what elements of the streetscape were linked with it. We were welcomed warmly there; I got many hellos and even a hug. There were a few trinket sellers and panhandlers though.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/callejon-de…

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  • Revolution Square.
    Revolution Square. I interpret this as a representation of how the 1% represses the 99%.Revolution Square.Revolution Square.

    Revolution Square

    8. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    The final stop that afternoon was Revolution Square, where we looked at a grandiose monument dedicated to Jose Marti.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/la-plaza-de…

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  • Classic cars in Old Havana.
    A classic car in Old Havana.A classic Russian car in Old Havana.A classic car in Old Havana.A classic car in Old Havana.A classic Russian car in Old Havana.A gathering of classic cars at the Plaza of the Revolution.A gathering of classic cars at the Plaza of the Revolution.An odd vehicle at the Plaza of the Revolution.A gathering of classic cars at the Plaza of the Revolution.A gathering of classic cars at the Plaza of the Revolution.A gathering of classic cars at the Plaza of the Revolution.A classic car at the Hotel National.A classic car at our lunch stop en route to Vinales.A classic car in Vinales.A classic car in Australia.A classic car in Cienfuegos.A classic car in Cienfuegos.A 1914 model in Trinidad.A classic car at Trinidad.

    The Classic Cars of Cuba

    8. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    The of the obvious highlights of Havana was the sheer volume of classic cars on the streets. Included in this entry are photos of classic cars I saw throughout Cuba.

    While the American cars grabbed everyone's attention, I was also intrigued by the old Russian cars. According to Tony, the Russian cars are easier to maintain because spare parts are easier to obtain. A mind boggling amount of ingenuity goes into keeping these cars running with the shortage of parts due to sanctions.Lue lisää

  • Castillo de la Real Fuerza
    Castillo de la Real FuerzaCastillo de la Real FuerzaCastillo de la Real FuerzaCastillo de la Real FuerzaCastillo de la Real FuerzaOur dinner venue.

    Fortaleza de la Cabana

    8. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    We had a bit of free time to explore in the late afternoon, and dinner was on our own. We dined in an upstairs apartment whose main room had been converted to a small eatery. I had another lobster for dinner - they're cheap here!

    After dinner, we piled into the bus and went to the Fortaleza de la Cabana to witness the firing of a cannon, a nightly event taking place at 9pm. During colonial times, the cannon was fired to notify residents to stay within the city walls.

    The fort was huge; much larger than the ones I had visited in Cartagena and in San Juan. I wished we had visited during the day and that I had been able to explore it on my own terms.

    The ceremony was performed by colonial enactors. It was interesting to see that locals were out in force, and not just tourists. Sadly, most of the photos I took did not turn out well. This was a pity as we had good nighttime views of the harbor.

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  • El Morro.
    View of Old Havana from El Morro.View of Old Havana from El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.El Morro.

    Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro

    9. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    In the morning, we visited a few additional sites in Havana before hitting the highway west to Vinales. Our first stop was El Morro Fort - a smaller fort adjacent to the one we visited last night. We stayed outside the fort, walked along the walls, and enjoyed the views from there. I really like forts and I really wished I had an opportunity to look inside it and learn about life in the fort during colonial times.

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  • Hotel Nacional.
    Hotel Nacional.Hotel Nacional.Visitors to the Hotel Nacional.Hotel Nacional.Hotel Nacional.Hotel Nacional.Hotel Nacional.Elevators at the Hotel Nacional.View from the Hotel Nacional.Russian Embassy.Santeria followers sacrificing a chicken on the beach.

    Hotel Nacional

    9. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    The next stop was the Hotel Nacional, which was built in the 1950s by Americans. The hotel was grand and the highlight was a walk of fame with photographs of past visitors.

    En route to our next stop, we saw, from a distance, the Russian Embassy, which was designed in the brutalist style to resemble a sword, and Santeria followers sacrificing a chicken on the beach.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/hotel-nacio…

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  • Fusterland.
    Fusterland.Nurses at Fusterland. I saw black fishnets all over Havana.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.Fusterland.

    Fusterland

    9. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Our final stop in Havana before heading out to Vinales was a place called Fusterland. A local artist named Fuster installed art around his neighborhood. He was inspired by Gaudi, so many of his installations were made up of colorful pieces of porcelain. It was a very fun stop and I enjoyed it tremendously.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/fusterlandia

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  • Kids playing at a waterless fountain at Communa Terraza.
    The view from our lunch stop.Our lunch stop.The ration store at Communa Terraza.Communa Terraza.Communa Terraza.Communa Terraza.Communa Terraza.Communa Terraza.

    Communa Terraza

    9. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba

    We headed west on the main highway after our morning tour of Havana. We had two stops en route to Vinales. The first was lunch at a family run place near the 16km marker on the highway. It was a cute little restaurant in the middle of nowhere with a great view of the surrounding hills. It was full of locals on a Monday afternoon. The food was good. The meal included fried fish and a really good dish of crabmeat in a tomato-based sauce.

    The bathrooms at the restaurant weren’t fully functional - the commodes didn't have seats, and there was no toilet paper. There was a woman stationed outside the toilet whose job was to pour a bucket of water into the commode after each person used it. During our stay in Cuba, we encountered a number of toilets that were like that. Both toilet seats and toilet paper appeared to be in short supply. Sadly, toilet paper was one of the items I took out of my backpack after I arrived home in Honolulu from Asia because I thought I would not need them on a package tour.

    Our second stop was Communa Terraza, a commune in the mountains. According to Tony, the government encouraged rural people to settle in communes to help one another get by and be as self-sufficient as possible. The commune itself was set in a pretty forested area with a lake. Tony brought us to a ration store, where people get their rations for essential goods such as rice, cooking oil, sugar, salt, eggs, coffee, and even clothes and shoes. With respect to clothes, one nonsensical choice men have to periodically make is between handkerchiefs and underwear; you can choose one in any given period of time, but not both. Apparently, eggs have been in short supply since the recent hurricane as hens have been too stressed to lay eggs. Tony showed us a ration book, how rations are allocated based on age and family size, and how the book was used. Other less essential items, or excess allocations of essential items, have to be purchased with cash at normal stores. This was very fascinating to me, as I had never encountered rationing before. In fact, I've rarely encountered scarcity. It made me all the more aware of how privileged I have been all my life.

    From what I could surmise, rationing happens in Cuba partially because the state controls production and makes sure that essentials are properly distributed, and also because economic sanctions and various other economic and logistical uncertainties have caused various degrees of scarcity over the years.

    After visiting the ration store, we had coffee at the commune and we all bought wifi cards as they were more readily available here. After the commune, we drove about 1.5 hours to Vinales.

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  • Our homestay in Vinales.
    The street on which our homestay is located.Our homestay in Vinales.

    First Evening in Vinales

    9. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba

    During the drive to Communa Terrazza, Tony introduced the concept of "workers on their own account". While the state is the dominant player in the Cuban economy, many people work in other jobs on the side or set up their own enterprises. These people are referred to as “workers on their own account”, as they may not have the normal benefits associated with state jobs. With doctors earning as little as $50 per month in the official state sanctioned economy, I can understand why people may want to become workers on their own account, especially with tourism booming (it is now the most important industry). On our trip to Vinales and all around Vinales, we saw that this side of the economy is alive and well.

    We arrived in Vinales around 6pm. Our guesthouse for the next two nights was owned by Sisa and her husband. We had two rooms and a patio with a dining table in the front of the compound, while the three generations living there stayed at the back. They watched telenovellas in a room between the two guest rooms. They had a very sweet but very timid rescue dog named Sophia. Sophia took an immediate shine to me. She was the only neutered animal I knowingly met on this trip.

    After checking in to our guesthouse, we piled onto the bus for dinner at a restaurant owned by Carmen, one of Vinales’ first female entrepreneurs. Before we took off for Carmen's, we saw Tony being fondly greeted by everyone in the vicinity. He seems to know everyone in this part of town. When we got to the bus, we found a young man named Yandry on board. Yandry has down’s syndrome and he likes hip hop. He stayed on the bus as it drove off, much to the chagrin of his mother who walked up as we drove off with him. She laughingly gave a “where are you taking my son?” hand gesture as we sped off.

    Carmen’s restaurant was on the outer fringes of Vinales. In her kitchen, Carmen and her family showed us how plantains and rice and beans are made. Most importantly, she showed us how to mix a mojito. The meal included lobster again! After dinner, Tony gave us a salsa lesson. I’m terrible at following patterns so I practiced a little and sat out most of it.

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  • Our view of Vinales Valley from the state run hotels.
    Our view of Vinales Valley from the state run hotels.Our view of Vinales Valley from the state run hotels.Our view of Vinales Valley from the state run hotels.Our view of Vinales Valley from the state run hotels.Our view of Vinales Valley from the state run hotels.Our view of Vinales Valley from the state run hotels.Our view of Vinales Valley from the state run hotels.Our view of Vinales Valley from the state run hotels.Our view of Vinales Valley from the state run hotels.Our view of Vinales Valley from the state run hotels.Band practice.

    Scenic Views of Vinales

    10. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba

    Our half day program the next morning had us visiting two viewpoints, a tobacco farm, and a mural. The two viewpoints were from large state-owned hotels. Both the hotels were empty of guests. This was in contrast with Vinales, where it seemed as if three out of every four homes were set up as guesthouses, an example of workers on their own accounts. The houses which doubled as guesthouses were often renovated and brightly painted, and they certainly brightened up the town. Anyway, the views from both the hotels were great. The Vinales landscape is made of limestone, and so there were cliffs and jagged rock outcrops everywhere.

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  • Tobacco farm visit - demonstration on cigar rolling.
    Tobacco farm visit.Tobacco farm visit.Tobacco farm visit.Tobacco farm visit.Tobacco farm visit.Shortly after this photo was taken, mayhem ensued when the farmer scattered corn kernels.Some unidentified farm critters.

    Tobacco Farm

    10. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    After the hotels, we went to a tobacco farm, where we were shown how tobacco is processed and then turned into cigars. The farm sells most of its crop to the state, but is allowed to keep some for their own sales.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/vinales-mur…

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  • The "Prehistoric Mural".
    The "Prehistoric Mural".Limestone cliffs around the "Prehistoric Mural".Limestone cliffs around the "Prehistoric Mural".Limestone cliffs around the "Prehistoric Mural".Limestone cliffs around the "Prehistoric Mural".Limestone cliffs around the "Prehistoric Mural".

    Prehistoric Mural

    10. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    Our final stop of the day was something labeled as a prehistoric mural. In reality, it was painted onto the side of a limestone cliff in 1961 and it was a colorful mural made to look like an old cave painting.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/vinales-mur…

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  • Our explorations around Vinales.
    The town square at Vinales.The town square at Vinales.The town square at Vinales.Our explorations around Vinales. I'm not sure what this installation is about.Our explorations around Vinales.Our explorations around Vinales.

    Free Afternoon in Vinales

    10. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We returned to Vinales for lunch at a Mediterranean restaurant with homemade goat cheese as its speciality, and then we had the afternoon off.

    After lunch, we all headed into the town square, where the state telecom company has a wifi hotspot, and we used the cards we purchased yesterday to access the internet and get caught up on news and social media. Each card, which we bought for CUC 1.50, buys one hour of wifi access. I learned that there isn’t much of a data network and most homes do not have internet access. Indeed, nobody seems to be walking around Cuba staring at smartphones - children were actually out and about playing and interacting with one another.

    The town square was full of tourists and some locals logging onto the internet. From what I understand about official salaries in Cuba, I doubt many people would make it a priority to purchase these cards on a regular basis to access the internet.

    While we were at the town square, we came across another type of worker on their own account... let’s just call her the Town Square Lady. She sized us up, opted to ignore me and engaged Jeff in conversation, telling him about her guesthouse and various relatives who own a taxi service. She lost interest and wandered off when he pointed to me as his spouse in response to her question about whether he was married.

    After our internet session, Jeff and I went on a walk around the town, and we also explored a few side lanes. We then had a lemonade at a drinks stand before heading back to our guesthouse for a short rest.

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  • Visit to organic farm.
    Visit to organic farm.Visit to organic farm.Visit to organic farm.Visit to organic farm.Visit to organic farm.Visit to organic farm.Visit to organic farm.Visit to organic farm.Visit to organic farm.Visit to organic farm.Visit to organic farm.Visit to organic farm.

    Visit to Organic Farm

    10. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba

    That evening, we were driven to dinner at a farm nearby. In the early 1990s, food and other necessities became even more scarce in Cuba after the collapse of the Soviet Union. The Cuban economy was heavily reliant on sugar at the time, and the Soviet Union was its main market and also its main benefactor for essential goods that weren’t produced locally. With the collapse of the USSR, farmers didn’t even have fertilizer. This farm pioneered organic cultivation techniques that didn’t require fertilizer, and then taught other farmers these techniques. The farm has since grown and it now has a restaurant at which we dined. The views of the valley below were spectacular as we ate and watched the sunset behind the limestone mountains.

    These couple of days were an eye opener because of the insight I got into peoples’ lives in Cuba. If I had my druthers, I would have stayed at least one extra day and rented an e-bike to explore the surrounding area on my own. It is heartening to see entrepreneurship of various sorts - workers on their own accounts - alive and well. I hope that with tourism booming, more can partake. Apparently, Vinales may become the first town in Cuba to have in-home internet access because of the number of tourists visiting.

    The US State Department’s recent advice to avoid travel to Cuba - which appears to be based on a sonic threat of unknown origin targeting specific locations - doesn’t appear to me to be a threat that would impact the average American visitor, but, unfortunately, it sounds as if there has been a rise in cancellations. This doesn’t bode well for all the people who are trying to better themselves economically. One can only wonder who is behind this perceived hazard and what has happened behind the scenes to escalate this issue, but, ultimately, it is the workers on their own account who suffer most.

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  • Australia, Cuba.

    Australia, Cuba

    11. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba

    Today was a long travel day from Vinales to Cienfuegos. After bidding farewell to our host Sisa and giving Sophia one last pet, we headed out of Vinales at 8am. Our route took us back east towards the outskirts of Havana, and then southeast. Our stop for lunch was at another family run restaurant, this time at the 56km marker. The fried chicken was phenomenal. What was odd about this restaurant was that it had a table displaying various toiletries. The toiletries were sealed with cling wrap, and most of them looked imported. There were hefty price tags on them. Apparently, importing toiletries and reselling them at a significant markup is a thriving business for some workers on their own account.

    After lunch, we drove for a bit before making a rest stop in a town named Australia. Apparently, the Cuban government named sugar producing areas after countries that produced sugar.

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  • Bay of Pigs Museum.
    Bay of Pigs Museum.Bay of Pigs Museum.

    Playa Giron & Museo Giron

    11. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba

    After that break, we headed towards Playa Giron, also known as the Bay of Pigs. During this portion of the drive, Tony showed us a short video by vox.com on the history of US-Cuba relations and a longer documentary on the same subject. Both documentaries were surprisingly neutral. Between them, they helped put a lot of the random snippets of information in my head into historical context, especially the exhibits I saw at the Museum of the Revolution in Havana.

    At the Bay of Pigs, we visited the Museo Giron, a museum focusing on the failed US invasion at that site. There was no English signage at this museum so poor Tony had to interpret everything. On the surface, the exhibits seemed quite factual and neutral; I'm not sure how much Tony filtered his interpretation of the exhibits for his spoken narrative. One exhibit took a lot of care to emphasize that the American prisoners of war were treated well. According to the film we watched earlier on, only exiled Cuban Americans participated in the invasion, and it was quashed within 72 hours. The captured prisoners of war were returned to the US in exchange for baby food and medicine, yet another indication of how economic isolation can negatively impact ordinary people.

    I authored an Atlas Obscura entry on the Museo Giron: https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/museo-giron

    We had a swim at the nearby beach after viewing the museum. The beach was rocky, but the water was warm, shallow, and clear. Jeff stepped on a sea urchin and had to dig the spine out of the sole of his foot. After the swim, we headed onwards to Cienfuegos.

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  • I absolutely love this photo, especially the contrast of colors and patterns.
    Palacio del Valle, Cienfuegos.View from the Palacio del Valle, Cienfuegos.Palacio del Valle, Cienfuegos.Our dinner venue, Cienfuegos.Breakfast prepared by Christian and his parents.The street on which our guesthouse was located.The street on which our guesthouse was located.Street scenes during our walking tour of Cienfuegos.Street scenes during our walking tour of Cienfuegos.Street scenes during our walking tour of Cienfuegos.Street scenes during our walking tour of Cienfuegos.Street scenes during our walking tour of Cienfuegos.Street scenes during our walking tour of Cienfuegos.Street scenes during our walking tour of Cienfuegos.Street scenes during our walking tour of Cienfuegos.Street scenes during our walking tour of Cienfuegos.Street scenes during our walking tour of Cienfuegos.Street scenes during our walking tour of Cienfuegos.Street scenes during our walking tour of Cienfuegos.

    Cienfuegos

    11. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We arrived in Cienfuegos in the late afternoon. At first glance, Cienfuegos seems like a somewhat run down former colonial backwater. There are colorful houses everywhere but for every one of those, there were many more that didn’t appear to be maintained well. Cienfuegos is different from other colonial towns in Cuba in that it was founded by the French. I don’t know much about differences in colonial architecture but I did note that the road along which the restaurant where we ate dinner that evening was very wide, with an elevated tree-lined pedestrian path in the center of the road - a definite departure from what I observed in other towns. I immediately noticed that there were iron grilles over most windows and doors - usually a bad sign. When asked, Tony clarified that Cienfuegos isn’t known for high crime, that the window grilles was part of the design of the buildings, and that we would see the same in Trinidad. In fact, crimes against tourists are rare because the penalties for such crimes are especially severe.

    Before checking in, we drove along the waterfront road to see an old mansion called the Palacio del Valle, which was done in a combination of European and Moorish styles. The waterfront looked very inviting and I would have liked to stroll along it if we had the time. We then checked in to our guesthouse before heading out to dinner. We are in the nicest accommodation of our trip so far; too bad we’re only staying in it one night.

    The guesthouse we are staying at is owned by a couple with a 17 year old son named Christian. Christian was our main liaison as he was the only one who spoke English. Christian helped us get settled in, and in the morning he came over with his parents to prepare breakfast. He turned out to be a very engaging kid and we really enjoyed chatting with him throughout the morning. He plans to forgo college to train as a tourist guide, as this is where there is money to be made. Knowing how little college-educated workers make in official state jobs, I can’t blame him for aspiring to become a worker on his own account. He supplemented English lessons from school by watching English films and reading in English. We found it hard to believe that he had his first one-on-one English conversation with a native speaker when his family opened their guesthouse barely 11 months ago. He followed our group as we walked around the central part of Cienfuegos in the morning so that he could observe Tony in action. We loved his ambition and attitude and we know that he’ll do well whatever path he chooses.

    During our walking tour, I noticed that the buildings in the town center had colonnades and wide shaded sidewalks. Perhaps this was the French influenced architecture. Tony wanted to take us to a fine arts museum but it was closed, so we pretty much just wandered around the town center and the town square. After the walking tour, we checked out and moved on to Trinidad.

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  • Street scenes around Trinidad.
    Cowhide chairs at our lunch spot.Santeria shrine.Santeria shrine.Street scenes around Trinidad.Street scenes around Trinidad.Street scenes around Trinidad.Street scenes around Trinidad.The pottery studio that we visited.Street scenes around Trinidad.Street scenes around Trinidad.Street scenes around Trinidad.The bell tower at Plaza Mayor.Plaza Mayor.View from the bell tower at Plaza Mayor.View from the bell tower at Plaza Mayor.View from the bell tower at Plaza Mayor.The bell tower at Plaza Mayor.Plaza Mayor.Plaza Mayor.

    Arrival Into Trinidad & Walking Tour

    12. lokakuuta 2017, Kuuba

    I was excited to be on our way to Trinidad. Everyone I know who had been to Cuba raves about this town. The journey to Trinidad took about 1.5 hours. We arrived around 1pm and we had lunch on the terrace of a family home in town. The host family was very amused by my interest in their chairs which utilized cowhide for the seat and the back. To me, this was yet another example of human ingenuity and adaptation.

    After lunch, Tony took us to our guesthouse, where we were shown into a large, garish bright pink room. The room was very comfortable, and that made up for the pepto bismol decor.

    After a quick rest, we met Tony for a walk around Trinidad. This is a pretty town. It is more gentrified than Cienfuegos, and, like Vinales, quite a few houses double as guesthouses. Unlike Vinales, though, quite a few residences also double as restaurants or souvenir shops. During our walk along the cobblestoned streets, we visited craft stalls, climbed a bell tower at the Plaza Mayor, and visited a Santeria shrine. The Santeria shrine was the most interesting part of our afternoon. It was dedicated to Yemalla, a deity of the sea. Santeria is such a poorly understood religious practice, and I was glad I got a chance to attain at least a superficial understanding of it.

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