• Siewch
  • Siewch

Singapore, Angkor, & Helsinki

Atlas Obscura-Driven Explorations in Singapore, Laracrofting in Angkor, and Exploring a New City Baca selengkapnya
  • Small Circuit: Bayon Temple

    29 September 2022, Kamboja ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Once inside the city walls, our first destination was Bayon Temple, famed for its giant faces. It is believed that there were originally 54 towers in this temple. 49 of those towers stand today. It is theorized that the faces represent King Jayavarman VII as a god king looking over his domain. On the walls flanking the temple are intricate reliefs depicting everyday life and battle scenes. Once again, I was accosted by guides. I managed to shake them off. Bayon Temple is absolutely amazing. I strolled around the grounds in awe of all the giant faces staring at me.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…
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  • Small Circuit: Baphuon

    29 September 2022, Kamboja ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    I exited Bayon from the north and headed up to Baphuon. Access to Baphuon is via a eye catching elevated walkway. Baphuon is a large temple built on three tiers. I climbed to the second tier via another set of very steep steps for people with small feet. The view from the that tier was great. I decided aginst going to the top tier because an old injury in my right knee was starting to flare up. After coming down the steep stairs, I walked around the back to look for an Atlas Obscura site - a reclining Buddha built into the temple wall. As with the other temples in Angkor, Baphuon was built in the 11th century as a Hindu temple. When the temple was converted to a Buddhist site in the 15th century, it is believed that a tower was demolished to supply stones for the reclining Buddha to be built into the wall. With some imagination, one could make out the outline of a reclining Buddha.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/reclining-b…

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…
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  • Small Circuit: Phimanekas

    29 September 2022, Kamboja ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    After exiting Baphuon, I walked through a forested area. The area wasn't signposted well, but I headed north along the path and encountered Phimeanakas, which also has an Atlas Obscura entry. Phimeanakas is an atmospheric temple in the midst of the forest surrounded by a small moat. Access into this temple was not allowed.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/phimeanakas

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…
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  • Chau Say Tevoda & Thammanon

    29 September 2022, Kamboja ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Once I was done with this marathon exploration of five temples, I met up with Phoan. Our next destinations were two small temples next to each other - Thommanon and Chau Say Tevoda. Neither of these temples packed the same punch as the ones I viewed prior, but they were well restored. Truth be told, I blew through these two sites quickly as I was rapidly getting templed out. The highlight of these two sites was that I nearly stepped on a green and yellow snake in Chau Say Tevoda. It slid away from me into a crack between rocks. This presented me with a dilemma - I had to walk over those rocks to get into the temple itself. Should I risk getting bitten? I figured that the snake was probably more afraid of me than I was of it, so I quickly stepped over the rocks.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…
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  • Small Circuit: Ta Keo

    29 September 2022, Kamboja ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Phoan drove me to a restaurant next to the huge Ta Keo temple. There, I ate what is perhaps Cambodia's best known dish - amok, a thin curry based dish with chopped up vegetables and a choice of meat. I can't say I've been blown away by my limited sampling of Cambodian cuisine to date. I thought a country wedged between Thailand and Vietnam would feature some bold flavors, but sadly that has not been my experience so far.

    Ta Keo is a massive mountain of a temple with three tall towers. Built of sandstone, the temple was a different hue compared to the others I had seen so far. There are little stone steps to get you to the top. I gingerly climbed the steps despite my knee, and, after enjoying the views, I carefully climbed back down.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…
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  • Small Circuit: Ta Phrom

    29 September 2022, Kamboja ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Our next destination is also one of Angkor's most iconic sights. Popularized by the Lara Croft: Tomb Raider movie, Ta Phrom is a rubble strewn temple best known for the giant ficus trees that have taken root in the temple. Indeed, the giant roots that wound their way into the stones make for a stark contrast between nature and human construction. I wandered around transfixed at the sights. As I made my way around the temple, Leftfield's Song of Life - a track that was played in the movie at the Ta Phrom scene - got stuck in my head.

    While I was a Ta Phrom, I looked around in vain for the Dinosaur of Ta Phrom, an Atlas Obscura listing that claims that there is a carving of a stegosaurus-like creature in the walls of the temple. Rather frustratingly, the listing isn't very specific on where exactly the carving is located. I did not find it despite my best efforts.

    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/ta-prohm

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…
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  • Small Circuit: Banteay Kdei

    29 September 2022, Kamboja ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Our last stop of the day was Banteay Kdei. To be honest, I was tired and templed out by this time, and I just walked around aimlessly. Phoan dropped me off at the west gate and told me to meet him at the east gate. I got disoriented and ended up back at the west gate, and I had to make my way back through the complex to get to him.

    We made our way back to Siem Reap after Banteay Kdei. It had been a long day (almost 9 hours), I was tired, my right knee was hurting, but my head was spinning from all the amazing sights I had seen. Soon after Phoan deposited me at my accommodation, the skies opened up with a torrential downpour. As I reviewed my photos, I was a little bit bummed that they didn't turn out very well due to the light.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…
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  • Grand Circuit: Phreah Khan

    30 September 2022, Kamboja ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    The Grand Circuit covers a longer distance than the small circuit. But, despite its name and its heftier price tag (presumably to cover the cost of fuel), this turned out to be a much shorter day because there are fewer sights to see on this circuit. Phoan offered to take me to Bantaey Srei, located 30 km north, to view some unusual murals. I declined as I wasn't sure I could handle more temples, and also because my knee was hurting. Besides, I wasn't sure that his rickety motorbike would last the extra 60km roundtrip.

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    I met Phoan at 7.30am. The journey to our first stop on the Grand Circuit took us past Angkor Wat and through Angkor Thom, and onwards north to Preah Khan. The entrance to Preah Khan is a causeway across a moat that features stone figurines similar to the south gate at Angkor Thom. The main difference was that the figurines weren't as well restored. Preah Khan features lovely columns, and a tree rooted into the ruins that rivals Ta Phrom.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…
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  • Grand Circuit: Neak Pean

    30 September 2022, Kamboja ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Our second stop on the Grand Circuit was Neak Pean, a small temple situated within a pond which is in turn situated on an island inside a large lake. To get to the island, I walked along a long wooden walkway that was just inches above the waterline due to the recent rain. The sight of the flooded lake with leafless tree trunks sticking out of the water was simply awe inspiring. Getting to the island, I wandered up the path to the pond. Neak Pean itself turned out to be a cute little temple in a peaceful setting. It has its own Atlas Obscura entry.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/neak-pean

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…
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  • Grand Circuit: Pre Rup

    30 September 2022, Kamboja ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    The final stop on the Grand Circuit, Pre Rup is a favorite for viewing sunsets. I was tempted to ask Phoan to bring me here for sunset, but I knew it would likely be futile due to the cloud cover. Pre Rup has two levels. The top level offers 360 degree views of the surrounding forest. Although the steps were steep, this climb was significantly less intimidating than the others. I enjoyed this last stop immensely.

    We concluded our tour around lunchtime. I was surprised how quickly we wound this leg up, but I was also happy as I didn't think my brain could handle any more temples.

    Phoan's motorbike struggled as he drove me back to my accommodation. When he dropped me off, I thrust a fistful of riel into his hands and told him it was my contribution towards his motorbike repairs. Phoan is a hardworking guy with good interpersonal skills, and I would hate it if he lost his livelihood.

    That afternoon, I wandered again into Siem Reap for lunch and to wander around, and I got back to my accommodation before the inevitable afternoon downpour.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…
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  • Siem Reap

    30 September 2022, Kamboja ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Included here are some random sights during my wanderings around Siem Reap town.

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    Parting thoughts on Cambodia

    I am really glad I made this side trip to Siem Reap and Angkor, and not having many tourists around was a huge bonus. But, because this trip was last minute and rushed, I didn't connect with Cambodia in as meaningful a way as I would have liked to. I didn't get much sense of how the various historical or cultural influences (and, to put a more sinister spin on it, the collective trauma) interact to make this place tick. For this reason, I would very much like to make a more in-depth foray in the future.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Cambodia/North/…
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  • Singapore to Helsinki

    1 Oktober 2022, Singapura ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    I arrived at 7.40pm from Siem Reap. I took the Skytrain from T3 to T1, checked in at Transfer Counter C, and made my way to the Qantas lounge where I had a shower, my second serving of laksa for the day, and a sago gula melaka dessert.

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    Finnair AY132 | SIN/HEL
    Business Class
    OH-LWF | Airbus A350-900
    ATD/2150 | ATA/0613+1
    Lounge: Qantas Business Lounge
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  • Second Helsinki Layover: Suomenlinna

    2 Oktober 2022, Finlandia ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I landed in a dark and cold Helsinki in the wee hours of the morning on October 2nd. After disembarking, I went through the now familiar routine: immigration and customs, bag storage, and then onto the train.

    Once in Helsinki, I made my way eastwards towards the pier for the Suomenlinna ferry. I arrived at the pier at 8.30am to find that the first ferry on Sundays was at 9.00am. The nearby street market wasn’t yet in full swing. I approached one vendor who happened to already be open, purchased a slice of rye with smoked salmon, and waited for the ferry.

    The ferry arrived promptly just before 9.00am, and I boarded it along with around eight other people. The ferry ride took about 15 minutes, during which I stood on the open air deck and enjoyed the refreshing crisp morning air. En route, the ferry offered great views of the Helsinki skyline and a smattering of small islands. Suomenlinna Fortress is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It comprises of eight islands, five of which are connected by bridges. Suomenlinna, also known as Sveaborg, has been occupied by three countries: Sweden began constructing the fortifications in 1748 to protect itself against Russia. Russia gained control of the site in 1808 and expanded it. When Finland became independent following World War I, they gained control of the site. It became a UNESCO listed site in 1991. The islands are inhabited.

    The ferry deposited us at a jetty in front of a large pink building with a clock tower. This building houses the tourist information office. However, nothing was open because it was Sunday. I was a tad disappointed because I wanted to pick up a map and brochure so that I would at least know what I was looking at. Nevertheless, I figured out from the maps on the signboards that there is a recommended walking route of just under 2km each way leading past museums, cafes, and eventually to a feature in the fortress wall called King's Gate. On the signboards, the walking route was highlighted in blue. I started out in the most obvious direction and walked past some wooden houses. I saw shops, cafes, and even a hostel. I think the hostel was open, but nothing else was. Just past the houses was a church which was initially built as an orthodox church by the Russians, but it was turned into a Lutheran church when the Finns took over.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/suomenlinna…

    After the church, though, I got confused by the signposts because each of them pointed to multiple landmarks in different directions. I got disoriented twice and landed up in residential areas, both times I beat a quick retreat as I didn't want to disturb anyone. After the second time I walked in the wrong direction, I went back to the signboards and thought a little more critically about what I was doing. The walking route was in blue on the map, and I looked at the signposts and saw that most directional signs were in brown but some were painted blue. Duh. I was supposed to follow the blue directional signs.

    The blue walking route takes visitors to two of the islands. I had already seen the first two sights, and so I set out in the direction of the other sights once I figured out I was supposed to follow the blue signs. Not long after, I saw the first of the fortress walls. The trees were starting to show their fall colors and it was pretty and atmospheric. Following the blue route, I soon crossed the bridge to the second island. The first major sight I saw was a pretty courtyard with a unique tomb featuring a representation of the deceased's armor. Soon after, I encountered the main fortress itself. Within the fortress walls, there were small hillocks. Rooms had been built into some of the hillocks, but the doors were all locked and I couldn't figure out what they had been used for. In some ways, the interior of the fortress resembled a hobbit village. There were also cannons and lookout posts. Finally, I reached the end point pf the blue route, which is King's Gate. Unfortunately, I could only walk underneath an arch; the rest of the King's Gate, including stone steps that went downwards past the arch, was cordoned off. I imagine it would have looked quite grand from the other direction since this presumably was where dignitaries were greeted. Just then, a saw a huge ferry the size of a cruise ship. Presumably it was a ferry from Tallinn (Estonia) across the Baltic. It looked as if it was heading for the channel between the island I was on and one of the other islands in the chain. My jaw dropped as it came closer and closer, and then it sailed between the two islands. I could not believe that this narrow strait was deep enough for a ship that size. I regained my composure and waved at the passengers on the ferry. Many of them waved back.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/fortress-of…

    By this time, I had spent almost two hours exploring. I decided to make my way back to the jetty. As I was walking back, I saw large groups of people heading towards me. I guess the later ferries had many more passengers. But, none of the cafes or shops were open. I got to the jetty just as the ferry was docking, and I made my way back to Helsinki.

    When I got back to the pier, I saw that the street market was in full swing, and that a large crowd of people were browsing through the shops and restaurants. I wandered around the street stalls as well as some boats that had set up shop. The majority were selling various forms of fresh and preserved seafood. I then walked through the Old Market Hall and looked at the food items on offer, which were pretty much the same as the open air market. Finally, I went back to the pier, purchased a meal of salmon, potatoes, and vegetables, and ate heartily. Once sated, I made my way back to the train station and to the airport

    https://www.travelblog.org/Europe/Finland/Uusim…
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  • Helsinki to Los Angeles

    2 Oktober 2022, Finlandia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Finnair AY1 | HEL/LAX
    Business Class
    OH-LWG | Airbus A350-900
    ATD/1610 | ATA/1710
    Lounge: Finnair Business Lounge

    At the lounge, I bumped into Timo F. He, too, had found this inexpensive fare to Europe. Menu was the same as on HEL/SIN.

    During the flight, I woke up while we were over Greenland and I stared in awe at the landscape below. I was so in awe that I forgot to take photos.
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  • Akhir trip
    3 Oktober 2022