• Siewch
  • Siewch

Singapore & Tokyo | 2026

Family Visit + my 20th layover in Tokyo. Weiterlesen
  • Atlas Obscura Explorations in Shinjuku

    12. Oktober in Japan ☀️ 22 °C

    This was my 23rd time in Tokyo, and, honestly, I was running out of things to do. So, I decided to dedicate my day to exploring Atlas Obscura-listed sites in the vicinity. As you may be aware, I enjoy using Atlas Obscura as a guide in some cities, particularly those I already know well, because it is like a fun little treasure hunt. I also get to see and experience sights that are off the regular tourist trail.

    My first stop was an Alice in Wonderland mural called Hop Step Hop Step located inside the subway station right next to my hotel. Apparently, there are two murals, but I only found one. I must have walked past this mural a dozen times over the years and I would never have noticed it if not for Atlas Obscura.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/hop-step-ho…

    After viewing the mural, I hopped onto the Marunochi Line and rode three stops to Yotsuya-Sanchome Station. Near this station was a trio of Atlas Obscura sites. The first site I encountered was a staircase next to the Suga Shrine, which was featured in a popular 2016 anime film. There were a surprising number of young people taking photos here.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/suga-shrine…

    A short walk from the Suga Shrine is Sainen-Ji Temple, which houses the grave of Hattori Hanzo. The first time I heard that name was in Kill Bill, where a character named Hattori Hanzo (played by Sonny Chiba) made a sword for Uma Thurman's character to kill the members of her former assassin squad who betrayed her. I later learned that Hattori Hanzo is the name of a character Sonny Chiba played in the 1980s, and it was taken from a historic figure from the Edo Period who may have also been a ninja.

    The google map directions to the temple weren't the best as they led me to the exterior wall of the temple grounds but not to the front gate. I had to circumnavigate more than half of the compound before I found the gate. Within the temple grounds were many graves, but Hattori Hanzo's was well marked and easy to find.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/grave-of-ha…

    Located on a quiet residential street, the third and final Atlas Obscura site in the vicinity is the Oiwa Inari Shrine, which pays tribute to Lady Oiwa who is the subject of a chilling ghost story in Japan. While looking for this site, I came across lots of small shrines tucked away in the residential streets.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/oiwa-inari-…

    After viewing these three sites, I went back to Shinjuku Sanchome Station and from there I made my way over to Gunkan Higashi Shinjuku. En route, I made a stop at the Samurai Museum. Atlas Obscura has a listing for a now-closed Samurai Museum featuring replicas of samurai armor and weapons in nearby Kabukicho, but I also read reports that a new one had opened next to the Hanazono Shrine. I popped in and I immediately realized this new Samurai Museum was a tourist trap, with ridiculous tourist prices to go with it. I quickly excused myself and left.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/samurai-mus…

    After my aborted visit to the new Samurai Museum, I headed to Gunkan Higashi Shinjuku, which is a building designed by a famed mad architect to look like a battleship. It was difficult to get a clear view of the battleship from the street as it was blocked by another building, but I did manage to get a semi-decent peek.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/gunkan-higa…

    Close to the battleship building is a Inari Kio Shrine, which features a snail-like demon figurine with googly eyes on its hands. This statue appeared in the early 2020s with no folkloric links, so nobody knows if the creature is eating the eyes or doing something else with them.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/eye-eating-…
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  • Golden Gai & Hanazono Shrine

    12. Oktober in Japan ⛅ 24 °C

    While walking towards Gunkan Higashi Shinjuku, I made a detour into the Golden Gai, a rabbit warren of tiny bars and restaurants. Almost all the venues were closed, but one ramen restaurant - Ramen Nagi - caught my attention. I learned from a quick google search that this restaurant is very well regarded, and it even had vegan ramen. I made a mental note to return after my Atlas Obscura explorations in the vicinity.

    I returned to Nagi Ramen at around 11.30am and found that a small queue had formed around the alleyway. I joined the queue and waited to be called up to the restaurant. Nagi Ramen is a small, ten seat restaurant with counter seating only. To get to it, one has to climb a very steep and narrow staircase, order and pay at a machine at the top of the stairs, and then squeeze into a narrow counter space. Patrons seated in certain spots even had to stand up to let others pass. There was barely enough elbow space to eat, and woe behold any left hander seated to the right of a right handed person.

    After a short wait, I was handed my bowl of vegan ramen. It certainly was an odd ramen, with thick noodles, minimal broth, and a sprinkle of menma (bamboo shoots), nori (seaweed), and spring onion served in a shallow bowl. It was very different from the generous, vegetable-heaped bowls at my local vegan ramen place in Honolulu. I'm generally not a big fan of bamboo shoots, and I tasted almost nothing but bamboo shoots on my first taste of the broth, but the savory broth and the chewy noodles grew on me within a couple of slurps. I happily tucked into the rest of my meal while savoring the unique experience of eating world class ramen in such a cramped space. For 1,500 yen, I gained a priceless experience.

    If you follow my blog, you might have seen me posting pictures of 6'6" Jeff squeezing into tiny spaces or tiny tuktuks during our travels. I challenged Jeff to squeeze into this space on our next trip, and he gamely accepted the challenge. We may have some fun videos in the future.

    After lunch, I ducked into the only other venue in Golden Gai that appeared open, which was a little coffee nook. This was a six-seater shop with almost no space between the counter and the wall. I ordered a coffee and rice flour scone from the friendly proprietress. While enjoying my snack, I had to get up twice to let other people in or out.

    After eating, I wandered around Golden Gai a little and then I walked through the Hanazono Shrine. There was scaffolding being set up at the shrine, and I suspect it is for an upcoming festival. Back in 2018, I chanced upon a festival at this site during a layover in October. After exiting the shrine, I saw a taiyaki stand and I couldn't resist getting one.
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  • Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden

    12. Oktober in Japan ☀️ 26 °C

    My original plan was to continue my Atlas Obscura explorations in Shibuya after lunch, but it was a nice day, and after a week of polluted air, the idea of hanging out in a park just appealed more. I made my way to Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden and I simply hung out for a couple of hours. As it was a public holiday in Japan (Sports Day, which commemorates the opening ceremony of the 1964 Olympics; they don’t appear to have a similar holiday for the 2020 Olympics… something tells me they’d rather just forget that one) there were many people around and I had a nice time people watching.

    I made my way back to my hotel at around 4pm, picked up my bag, and then I made my way to Haneda Airport.
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  • Tokyo Haneda to Honolulu

    12. Oktober in Japan 🌙 21 °C

    Japan Airlines JL72 | HND/HNL
    Economy Class
    Boeing 787-9 | JA874J
    ATD/2159 | ATA/1002
    JAL First Class Lounge

    To get to Haneda, I took the Tokyo Metro to Hamamatsuro Station where I transferred to the Tokyo Monorail which has since been branded as the Tokyo Panorama Line. At Haneda, I went to the rooftop onsen at Villa Fontaine Hotel opposite Terminal 3. Although pricy, this is one of the few foreigner friendly and tattoo friendly onsen in Tokyo. At the rooftop, I watched the sun set behind a distant outline of Mt Fuji while soaking in the healing mineral spring waters.

    After a pleasant couple of hours, I headed to the JAL First Class Lounge where I had some sushi and a small pasta. After eating, I retired to the JAL Salon seeking some peace and quiet, but some loud lounge guests marred my experience. My flight back to Honolulu was pleasant and I managed some sleep.
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    Ende der Reise
    12. Oktober 2026