• Silke und Hauke
  • Silke und Hauke

Cycling East

A 315-day adventure by Silke und Read more
  • Escaping the valley

    March 24, 2018 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    It was time for a 2-day-trip to escape the rush and take some fresh air: We wanted to see what’s behind the surrounding mountains of the Kathmandu valley and climbed up on the eastern side to Nagarkot after passing through the royal town of Bhaktapur with its UNESCO heritage site, the Bhaktapur Durbar Square. The centuries-old ornaments and wood works incorporated into the many beautiful temples, palaces, statues and residential houses are marvelous! And almost 3 years after the disastrous earthquake, the damage is still clearly visible, like everywhere in the valley, and the rebuilding is ongoing, slowly.

    Nagarkot, on the ridge east of the valley, is famous for its views over the Himalaya range. Unfortunately, we weren’t lucky enough to see far enough but the sunrise hike to the view tower in the morning was nice though. Time for breakfast! After that, we wanted to hit a track to Dhulikhel, got lost several times and had to carry our bikes along forgotten, overgrown hiking trails which were shown as jeep tracks on our map. In fact, they were too steep to drive a jeep there and we’re glad that we only carried one pannier :)

    When the thick pine forest cleared, we found ourselves in a peaceful valley with impressing vegetable terraces on the steep slopes. Time for a late lunch, Dal Bhat for sure! The lessons we draw from our first cycling trip in Nepal: There is always a surprise, road conditions change too fast to be documented and there’s so much to discover in between all these mountains here.
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  • Kathmandu!

    March 28, 2018 in Nepal ⋅ 🌫 20 °C

    We stayed at Pushkar Shah’s house (for 10 days) which is full of cyclists throughout the year. He’s been on a mystical journey for peace around the world with his bicycle, promotes cycling and fights for bicycle lanes nowadays. There were many other crazy riders too and it was great to spend time together and share experiences.

    We went around a lot, guided and unguided, and there are temples, stupas and other holy places everywhere and in all sizes, in the trees, in the walls, in the pavement, at the surrounding hills. We watched the cremations taking place at some temples next to the rivers - with very mixed feelings.
    We visited one of the holiest pilgrims sites for Buddhists in the world - the Boudhanath stupa and the holy atmosphere there are mesmerizing.

    It’s easy to notice all the opulent dogs, pigeons and monkeys who love to stay around the temples because the people usually offer sacrifice in form of rice, biscuits and other sweets - and feeding them is positive for the karma :)

    And: Fit in cycling does not mean fit in yoga... We used our lazy time to do some yoga lessons in the mornings. We found an ashram round the corner where the locals go and enjoyed this authentic experience although it was painful during the yoga and painful the days after (every little muscle hurt!). But again and again a perfect start into the day before breakfast.

    There are also some good news for our further journey (and this is also the main reason why we stayed that long in this crazy city): After 4 visits to the Indian embassy we eventually got our visa, yeah!
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  • Cycling continues

    March 31, 2018 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    There is only one road leaving the Kathmandu valley in western direction so we had to cope with heavy traffic on this narrow road without a shoulder. The colorful painted trucks labeled with 'Road King', 'Risky Rider' or 'Street Killer' are followed by ramshackle buses labeled with 'VIP', 'Super Deluxe' or 'Tourist Only' in the hierarchy. The law of the street is the low of the strongest.
    And no matter how old and in which condition these vehicles are, they are usually fully packed. Tourists tend to use microbusses, whose drivers overtake even more careless. Overturned buses or trucks plunging into ruin are not uncommon.

    Luckily, there are only trucks, buses, motorbikes and very few private cars. What would happen if the Nepalese start having their own cars? Indeterminable..

    And luckily, we chose a quiet side road south into the Terai then. We could even camp for the first time in Nepal! High up in the mountains and with some visitors (great Nepalese kids, always playing outside and excited to see people like us). Followed by the heaviest thunderstorm we’ve ever experienced. The ground was shaking and our tent was lit up for hours. But it kept us dry. What a scary night! The scariest we recall...

    The next day, we reached a view tower in Daman at 2321m. We stayed there overnight but again we couldn’t see the Himalaya - and again there was a heavy thunderstorm, still in the morning. We’re still used to Omani sunshine, damn!

    After a second breakfast at the pass (2488m), the downhill run (2000m down into the Terai) was stunning. The vegetation changed rapidly, from pine forest to a tropical forest, to broad-leaved forest (back in autumn), to rice paddies in the fertile valley.
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  • Chitwan Nationalpark

    April 3, 2018 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We didn’t expect a nationalpark in a poor country like Nepal to be so well maintained (although it is world-famous). It was absolutely amazing (and scary!) to hike through the high elephant grass in this beautiful jungle, knowing that there were dangerous, wild animals (the Bengal tiger as well!) around. But in fact we're looking for them, the two of us with two guides, one in the front, one in the back, armed with bamboo sticks. Our safety procedures were a mixture of running zigzag, climbing a tree and punching the rhino's nose with the bamboo :) When we encountered a rhino mummy with its baby in the high grass, we were overwhelmed and felt that our guides were even more scared than us...

    Canoeing in the smooth, sluggish Rapti river, which is the natural border of the park and full with crocodiles wasn’t that scary but great to watch colorful birds like kingfishers, peacocks, herons, storks and many more.

    A half-day jeep safari gave us the chance to see a larger area of the park and the continuous change of vegetation alone would have been absolutely worth it. But we saw more rhinos (grazing and bathing), a black bear, deers, bisons and monkeys and were so happy to see all this wildlife!

    Some notes on the elephants: There are many wild elephants in the deeper areas of the park. Unfortunately, we didn’t see one. The elephants we saw were all ranger or government elephants, they are treated well and spend their whole day in the park, eating, bathing and playing, doing what they want, accompanied by a ranger who counts animals or takes care of the park (the elephants allow the ranger to get close to the wild animals without scaring them away). Since this measure was established among with others, they say there has been no poaching anymore although still Chinese people come to pay poor Nepalese to hunt rhinos for their horns.
    Back to the elephants: The ranger elephants are taken back into elephant camps around the park at night where they need to be put in chains, at least in the mating season. Recent projects to keep them in fenced enclosures failed because elephants are just too smart. They learned how to switch off the electricity and overcome the fence, wild elephants came to make them pregnant or they rampaged in the villages. We don’t like animals being captivated but in this case it‘s necessary to preserve the park. Good news: Elephant riding tourism is declining, it’s been banned from the park and is only allowed in the bufferzones around. Several projects are doing a great job in training elephant owners and raising awareness for proper treatment. Some are offering alternatives such as accompanying elephants for a couple of hours to watch them while they’re doing what they want and eventually feeding them.

    By the way: The hygienic conditions in general have not been easy from the first day in Nepal and we can feel that it is the poorest country we’ve ever been to. Not surprisingly, Silke got sick.. However, we went back on the road, going slowly after a couple of rest days. And these days we’re even trekking the Annapurna Circuit, impressions will follow, but connections are quite difficult in the remote area we’re in at the moment :)
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  • Trekking the Annapurna Circuit

    April 10, 2018 in Nepal

    It all started with us squeezing into a bus fully packed with excited hikers, backpacks and some locals sitting on the lap of the driver. 4 hours in squatting position in the aisle were already kind of proving our endurance, but this shouldn’t stop us :)

    We started trekking the Annapurna Circuit in Besisahar at about 800m through a
    peaceful, green landscape, along a river full of water, rushing waterfalls, over scary suspension bridges into a deep valley with steep slopes, rice paddies, and charming little villages where little more details waited to be discovered. Women working in the fields, doing laundry, cooking; men smashing rocks or processing wood; colorful Tibetan prayer flags, banana trees, piles of firewood.

    We learned that the lodge owners start making their offers in the afternoon, rooms are usually for free if you eat dinner and breakfast there, a fair deal everywhere on the circuit!

    The first days on the trek definitely raised our appetite for more hiking and the following days should become even more beautiful...
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  • Up and down

    April 12, 2018 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    There’s a Nepalese song about their trails, meaning something like „up and down, up and down, this is the Nepali flat, this is so difficult“ - and yes, this is absolutely true, there is no 'flat', and although we want to climb up to 5400m, only going up would probably be a bit boring, wouldn't it? Thus, the trail is going up the slopes, going down, changing to the other side of the river and winding up again.

    But mainly we’re going up, day by day, the nights started to get really cold and in the mornings, when the sky is still clear, we can see the snow and some impressing Himalaya peaks in the distance - we’re getting closer!
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  • The Annapurna Range!

    April 13, 2018 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We started to feel the high altitude but the landscape and the trail itself should become more spectacular every day. We went along 'Heaven‘s door', the Great Wall of Pisang, a smooth rock slope with fresh snow on it which is so massive that we immediately felt like tiny ants, continued through beautiful pine forest and reached Upper Pisang at noon, where it happened:

    The Annapurna II showed its peak (7937m!) and we got goose bumps! A large part of the Annapurna Himal became visible, shining in the sun, white clouds moving fast and a stunning valley below. A place to marvel! And a place to enjoy the rest of the day, soaking in the beauty, writing these lines, eating garlic soup and Dal Bhat, and again: marvel.
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  • Overwhelming Himalayas

    April 14, 2018 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The deeper we made our way into the Himalayas, the more we could feel (and see) the Tibetan influence: Buddhism is dominating, the colorful prayer flags, prayer mills, gompas and monasteries are fixtures in the scenery.

    It’s impressive to see how the people live in the remote villages under rough conditions without traffic connections. Goods are being transported on the back of women or by little horse caravans. It’s all handmade or improvised, they smash rocks to build their homes, they till their fields with pickaxes and spans of oxen. It’s all hard work but so amazing to see these survival artists!
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  • Ice Lake

    April 15, 2018 in Nepal

    Acclimatization is a terrible word but plays an important role if you want to go up as high as we wanted to. So we decided to climb up about 1200m to the Ice Lake which is at 4700m, stay there for a bit and climb back down.

    As we climbed up we could feel how the air became thinner and thinner, headache started, so we went slower and slower, like in slow-motion, but we made it to the lake! We had never been that high before and the scenery up there was just amazing. Climbing back down along the steep slopes wasn’t that much fun then.. but the views were worthwhile :)
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  • Tilicho Lake

    April 18, 2018 in Nepal

    Although the Tilicho lake is not the highest altitude lake in the world as the Nepalese claim it to be, at almost 5000m, it is quite high and for us it was really demanding to get there as we had never been on such a high level. Our first time above 5000m on the way up there, a great preparation for the Thorong La!
    Surrounded by white shimmering glaciers the big icy lake with the Tilicho peak (7134m) is a sheer beauty, so that we took a long rest by the lake, catching our breath, soaking in the stunning views and relaxing our muscles.
    Our muscles were indeed quite stiff, not only because one part was characterized by narrow steep hairpins winding up the mountain, but also because other parts were so-called ‘landslide areas’. As rocks of different sizes were flying down from above along the narrow trekking path which wasn’t always clear, the gaping abyss a step aside, we found this part very frightening and were glad that we didn’t wait until the wind had picked up even more.
    However, we survived with some adrenaline rushes and stayed another night in the Tilicho Base camp at an altitude of 4150m, recharging our batteries with some Yak cheese, yummy! The cheese is absolutely delicious and you can get it everywhere at these heights - because that’s where the cute, woolly Yaks live :)
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  • Thorong La

    April 21, 2018 in Nepal

    A couple of days of more ‘up and down and up and down’ took us to the Thorong High Camp at about 4900m. Although we arrived there quite early in the morning we decided to not continue to the pass and down on the other side, other than all our fellow trekkers - we were just too exhausted. So for the moment we were the only ones at the camp. But this should change throughout the day and people ended up sleeping on the ground in the packed dining room.

    We started to feel more and more sick because of the altitude. At least when the snowfall started in the afternoon we regretted our decision to stay. But the atmosphere in the camp was so mystic, everyone was so excited about the next day (can we go or do we have to stay?), almost everyone had to fight one’s symptoms of altitude sickness and it felt like being part of a large trekkers community with so many familiar faces and so many stories to tell. And many people in a packed room cause some welcome heat as well :)

    Our decision turned out to be a good one: The next morning was beautiful with a clear sky, a shining sun and fresh snow enchanting the landscape.

    The ascent to the pass was incredibly demanding then, both physically and mentally. It went about our iron will, our concentration and focus on the path, our mutual motivations, our sucking for oxygen, going step by step, no more talking, slowly, slowly, slowly, further and further, higher and higher, pushing our limits. From time to time, dazed trekkers sitting on a horse were passing by.

    These 4 hours were probably the most intense of our lives, we had never breathed so thin air and we made it to the Thorong La on our own, followed by tears of joy and goose bumps. 5416m and it’s such an incredible feeling to be up there but so worth it!
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  • Back to reality

    April 23, 2018 in Nepal

    A long steep descent (1800m down!) into a desertic landscape and further to Muktinath followed behind the pass (on the same day we climbed it because there’s no accommodation) - it took our remaining energy and we were so glad to finally find a meal and a comfortable bed!

    Muktinath is a pilgrimage site for Buddhists and since the hiking trail from Pokhara has been turned into a jeep trail it’s been commercialized. Thus, much concrete makes the townscape now and the bustle was a bit too much for us after two weeks in peaceful little villages.

    While we continued to trek down from Muktinath on a beautiful side track to Jomsom, avoiding the jeep track, the landscape changed to flourish green and the apple blossom season had started.
    This region is actually famous for its delicious apples (we loved and we will miss the apple pies up there!).

    For timing reasons (we got accepted for meditation course in India that we didn’t want to miss), we chose to take a bus from Jomsom to Pokhara, it’s 150km and took incredible bumpy 13 hours including rockfall and a crash with a jeep on the narrow „road“, sometimes on the debris in the riverbed - our conclusion:

    A bus ride on this road: never again!
    Trekking in the Himalayas: again and again!
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  • Back in hippie town

    April 26, 2018 in Nepal

    You can still see many white elderlies that are stuck in Pokhara since the hippie movement. Although it’s the second biggest city in Nepal, the lazy atmosphere, especially near the Phewa lake, has nothing in common with Kathmandu. Thus, we took some days to recover and the family restaurant next to our guesthouse became our regular dining room.

    We also met Stijn there who is still busy building a hostel for the kids of a remote school. It was great to see him again after spending so much time together in Iran. And his stories about 7-year-old kids being so responsible for themselves, doing their laundry, cooking food for the group, and himself carrying and smashing huge rocks by hand for the construction were amazing!

    And... it was time for Hauke to redeem his birthday voucher to go paragliding. Silke still has great ideas to make presents! It’s so amazing to glide through the air, noiseless, flying circles like a bird, using the upwind to go higher, drop down and go high again, watching the scenery from above. Thank you :)
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  • Lumbini

    April 29, 2018 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    The Siddharta Highway from Pokhara south into the Terai plain is beautiful, great to cycle and there’s surprisingly little traffic, but it also means that you’re leaving the gorgeous mountains behind, so actually a sad story.
    We wanted to go to the far West of Nepal and then cross to India, so we had to do it.

    And then we accidentally met Gabriel on the road, coming from India! We knew that he was heading towards Pokhara, so chances weren‘t too bad, but it was so amazing to meet him again! We cycled so many days together in Iran a couple of months ago and now we’re here in Nepal - cyclists world is still small :)

    Lumbini was not much of a detour, so we took a rest day there to explore the birthplace of Siddharta Gautama, the Buddha. There is a huge garden with many temples and monasteries from different countries, even Germany and Austria, and it felt a bit like being on an Expo with the subject ‚Buddhist temples‘. But it was nice to visit them and spend some time under the mango trees.

    It was quite striking to see how many monks we encountered were busy with their smartphone, telephoning, wearing a headset and trendy sunglasses, taking selfies and that they were traveling with the most fancy minibuses. For us, it doesn’t fit the mould...
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  • Cruising through the plain

    May 1, 2018 in Nepal

    Did we write that cyclists world is small? Yes it is: On a busy crossroad we bumped into Anneke & Tane from New Zealand who we celebrated Christmas and New Years Eve with in Iran, and Milda & Dovydas from Lithuania, two more enthusiastic cyclists. A few minutes earlier or later, and we would have missed each other...incredible, and time to touch glasses, with fresh sugarcane juice for sure. It was so great to see you guys!

    In this mainly flat area of Nepal, we didn’t only meet foreign touring cyclists, no, cycling in general is quite popular to get to school, to work or to transport goods - and we like that very much :)

    We knew that India would be different, not to say chaotic, right behind the border, so we enjoyed these days even more. Although it was usually above 40 degrees with lots of mosquitoes, being here in Nepal among with great people and kids and camping in the forests was just great.
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  • Waiting for the Bengal tiger

    May 4, 2018 in Nepal ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    We wanted to give it another chance to see a wild Bengal tiger and stopped by at the Bardia Nationalpark to do a 12 hours walking safari. The park is famous for its large population of tigers but only a few tourists make it to this remote area.

    Accompanied by Prem, our friendly guide, and Santosh, a brave bamboo fighter, we spent a whole day in the jungle, walking through deep bush, crossing crocodile rivers, watching out for wildlife - and waiting almost five hours for the tiger, at a spot by the river, silent and hidden in the bush, endurance and patience were essential...

    We were lucky: 2 wild Rhinos, a wild elephant (our first one!), herds of deer, monkeys and crocodiles. But not too lucky: No tiger. 30 minutes more at the spot by the river and we would have seen it, a group which stayed there longer saw it, damn!
    Anyway, it was an amazing day in an amazing jungle.

    The next day was full of surprises then: Someone had stolen our speedometers, our tent sticks, one of our cyclists‘ wallets and a drinking bottle over night. We had our bicycles in front of the door of Prem‘s homestay and left some things on them. Luckily, our tent and the sleeping pads were still there. How could that happen in a remote village with less than 50 homes? Must have been a kid or youth. The whole family and neighbors helped searching and we could find some things in the fields. But the tools, our speedometers and our repair kit was gone, and one tent stick broken. Not a perfect start into a new day...

    For good luck, the family put the red color on our forehead, called 'Tika'. And this should help: When we left the park cycling along the road that goes through the bufferzone, a safari jeep suddenly stopped a hundred meters in front of us and we heard the Indian tourists screaming. There was a tunnel for water underneath the road and 3(!!!) tigers had just crossed the road through it! When we got there, we could only hear the alarm sounds of the birds and the rustling as the tigers disappeared in the forest. So we stood there, listening and waiting. And then suddenly another tiger came through the tunnel! We couldn’t believe our fortune, we had just seen a wild Bengal tiger, a few meters from us, incredible, what a powerful animal! The following 15 kilometers to the next town became the most scary ones we cycled so far because we knew we were in real danger now. Before, it was just roadsigns saying that there were tigers... but there are, we saw it!

    The rest of this exciting day offered us another puncture and a nice, grassy camp spot with many kids around :)
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  • Goodbye Nepal!

    May 7, 2018 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    During the last almost two months, we immersed ourselves quite well in this foreign country and it felt again a bit weird to leave. Nepal is a very diverse country with so many different ethnic groups, cultures and traditions, ever-smiling people, a strikingly young population and breathtaking landscapes.

    The time we spent here was intense, exciting and rich in variety. Poverty and joy of life lie incredibly close to each other.
    And there are so many kids everywhere! They are so quick and super curious and we could spend whole days greeting them, slapping hands and kidding around with these balls of energy :) There must be something special about Nepalese kids because as soon as we entered India, it changed and they are mostly just staring at us, appearing frightened somehow.
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  • Namasté India!

    May 9, 2018 in India

    Crossing the border into overpopulated India was quite easy. The first days of cycling were characterized by smooth roads, intense heat, bad air quality, chaotic city traffic, disgusting smell of burning piles of trash, cows and pigs crossing the road. And to be honest, the only thing that whetted our appetite was the amazing food and the beginning of the mango season :) But it became better and better...more impressions will follow.

    By the way, we’re in the mountains of Himachal Pradesh now, at the place where the Daila Lama lives, going to do a meditation course and will be back online in 10 days.

    See you soon :)
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  • Let's take the train

    May 10, 2018 in India ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    We could write an article about the booking system, waiting lists and the numerous classes because this is where the adventure 'taking a train in India' actually starts. But we were lucky that our tickets got confirmed just in the night before the departure day and we could still reach the station (we had booked different trains from different stations on different dates to increase our chances of getting a ticket - Indian holiday season was starting and trains are booked months in advance so that you usually end up on waiting lists).

    But how to take bicycles on an Indian train? We had heard different stories: Book it as luggage and put it in the luggage cart, book it as freight so that it would travel on a different train, just take it with you in your cabin. The first two options were not possible at the minor train station we had chosen, the staff there appeared helpless. We didn’t like these options anyway, so we had to go for the last one (which is not allowed...).

    Waiting at the station became endless, we got there around noon to check it out, the train was supposed to depart in the late afternoon and we were still sitting there in the darkness, our bicycles prepared (handlebars turned, pedals removed to make them as slim as possible), our panniers stuffed into rice sacks.

    And then the thrill began: With more than 5 hours delay, the train arrived (not only the Deutsche Bahn has timing issues... although the Indian railway network is the largest in the world, with trains traveling for days in one direction, what are 5 hours then?). We had exactly 2 minutes, there were no lights at the station, we had to find the right cart, running, a hustle and bustle everywhere and then we found it, maybe a minute was over, maybe more? While Silke was shouting at the guys who were hanging out in the entrance to help her getting the bikes and bags in, Hauke had to run back to get the big rice sack (it was too much to carry it in one run). When Hauke reached the sack, the train started to move, „Run, Forest, Run!“. Silke was keeping the door open when the rice sack flew in first, and after that Hauke.
    We’re complete, we made it, we’re on board, yeah!

    Solely the conductor was not amused... but what could he do? Thus, he guided us to our beds (!) and after a while our excitement decreased and we dropped off to sleep...

    We woke up in another state, hello Himachal Pradesh! We decided to jump off the train one station before our final destination because a large lake appeared on our map nearby, and doing so, we also avoided another Indian metropolis.

    Taking a train in India is a remarkable experience, especially overnight in an air-conditioned sleeper class, and without bicycles... But now we know how to (not?) do it :)
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  • Leaving the heat below

    May 13, 2018 in India

    Cycling on nice side roads with little traffic through the countryside was beautiful - from time to time we could even see snow-covered mountains in the distance. That’s where we wanted to go to escape the heat, it was our strong motivation, at this time temperatures had already reached 45 degrees in Delhi. In the end, we were a bit surprised how fast we had climbed up to Dharamsala, respectively McLeod Ganj. Was it really our fitness level or just the heat lighting a fire under us?

    And people are somehow different since we are in Himachal, more friendly, more relaxed, more up for good conversations, not just staring at us like they did in the plains. Thus, we really enjoyed our first time camping in India, with visitors of course, but they were nice, curious and wanted to ride our bikes.

    Did we already mention that we can’t get enough of mangos, melons and bananas? Not a single day passes without buying a kilo of mangos, till our panniers burst, yummy :)
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  • Vipassana Meditation

    May 26, 2018 in India

    A 10 day Vipassana meditation course is an individual experience for everyone, thus this post is written from Silke’s perspective. Hauke didn’t finish the course anyway because of too much pain from sitting cross-legged, meditation wasn’t possible anymore, so he quit on day 8.

    I had never done something similar before and these ten days were not holiday at all.
    No other activities were allowed, no talking, no phones, no reading, no writing, no music, no exercising, nothing. It was not allowed to walk out of the course boundaries. Men and women are separated during the whole time of the course (the longest time for us since we left for this trip, and the longest time we spent in one place). Basically everything that brings joy was prohibited. Sounds almost like being in jail, right? But as the Vipassana center of Dharamkot is located in the middle of a pine forest it feels not. It’s an absolutely calm and peaceful place, completely fenced off from busy McLeod Ganj, perfect to calm down your mind and learn a meditation technique.

    And what made it even more perfect were the great volunteers and assistant teachers. There was nothing I had to take care of. They prepared the meals, organized a laundry service and made sure that we students could solely focus on the meditation.

    Most of the meditation were group sittings in a large hall and a part of it in our rooms and the ten hours of daily meditation were quite challenging, both physically and mentally.

    Try to sit cross-legged just for one hour with a straight back without moving or stretching any parts of your body and you know what I mean. When I looked at the strong Indian women around me who were sitting there like little Buddhas, like rocks, it felt like ‘this is not fair’, but they’re used to it and us westerners are not. This is the physical aspect.

    Mentally it was demanding too, of course, as learning a meditation technique is hard mental work. Especially during the first days it was really hard for me to calm down all my thoughts. Quite often I found myself in a situation where my mind just kept on wandering away, sometimes for minutes before I realized it. Then I had to remember myself to focus on the meditation again.

    During the first three days, the meditation was all about focussing on the breath, a simple observation of the air flow in the area around the nostrils, nothings else. But it can be so difficult! And so frustrating, if you realize that you can not even control your mind for a minute to do this simple job!

    At the end of the third day, we were taught the actual Vipassana meditation technique, which is about an objective observation of sensations throughout the whole body, simply put. If you can not even focus on your breath, how can you do that, for an hour or longer!? “Work continuously, diligently, persistently, objectively!”, to repeat S.N. Goenka ‘refrain’, or “work hard!”.

    I went through many ups and downs during this course, some sittings felt quite successful, some frustrating and I did not know how I was going to make it to the end of the course. But it is very important, and this is a crucial aspect of this technique, to see the things as they are, without craving, without aversion. It is what it is, some session are good, some are not, it doesn’t matter.

    However, somehow I did get through it, which made me realize that I’m much stronger than I think I am. After the long time in silence it was finally a relief to talk again, to get to know the people I’d been sitting in the hall and sleeping in the same room with for 10 days, to share our experiences. Thus, a long night was followed by an even more intense chatting during last meal the next morning :)

    What I learned as well is that happiness comes from within. I thought I already knew this, but I came to truly and deeply experience this at the course. I realised that despite what was going on at anytime, I could choose to be happy if I wanted to.

    Be happy,
    with much Metta,
    Silke
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  • Where the Dalai Lama lives

    May 28, 2018 in India

    We didn’t get the chance to see the Dalai Lama in person (which became quite difficult since his popularity has reached incredible dimensions), but he's omnipresent in McLeod Ganj anyway. Photos of him and his sayings, his texts, his books are everywhere, in any shape or size, in his temple, in the countless restaurants, cafés, shops, guesthouses and hotels.

    Most of the people living here are Tibetan refugees who worship their spiritual leader. They benefit from the booming tourism, enjoy the peace and freedom of this place, always smiling. But when they tell their moving stories about their escape from Tibet, we can feel that they miss their country, their home.

    While Silke was finishing her Vipassana, Hauke helped out at a local environmental project, supporting Tibetan women in a paper recycling factory, all handicraft, and definitely a great experience with the cheerful women.

    Otherwise, we recharged our cycling batteries with delicious food, even some Italian, and prepared ourselves for the upcoming weeks. After all, we still had grand plans for the last weeks of our journey...
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  • Oh no, Manali

    May 31, 2018 in India

    We enjoyed lots of downhill, green tea plantations, little traffic and went down to Mandi where the heat overwhelmed us again. There was no other option, but from here on it would go only up, up, up.

    We chose a side road, slept in a temple for the first time and found the road flooded by the Beas river the next morning. A guy on the other side of the valley shouted that we should wait... The water level is controlled by a hydro power plant and after an hour we could continue.

    The further we went towards Manali, the more touristy it became, some whole villages seem to live from either whitewater rafting or paragliding.
    The booking counters along the road are all licensed and numbered, ranging to numbers higher than 1000(!). How can they live from that? We could count the rafting boats on the river on the fingers of one hand that day...

    Manali turned out to be our (negative) climax then: In fact, every Indian tourist we met till we got there, told us they would go there - and how beautiful it is... We were shocked when we found ourselves within a massive traffic jam in and around the dusty, dirty city. It was so overcrowded, noisy and just getting on our nerves that staying there was no option - after about an hour we probably had overtaken all cars again which had overtaken us earlier that day. Let’s scram!

    We should be lucky to find a lovely and peaceful place with a great host and great cook later that day and decided to take a rest day there :)
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  • Happy coincidence

    June 3, 2018 in India

    After Manali was out of sight, we patiently went from one accommodation to another but they were all booked, or the prices were off the roof. So we’re lucky to find the homestay of Barnet‘s family, booked out as well, but they offered us to pitch our tent in their beautiful apple and cherry orchard.

    Sometimes when we arrive somewhere, we have this feeling that an accommodation is going to be really nice and comfortable, like in this case, and it’s mostly because of the people. While still pitching our tent we already asked if we could stay longer.

    Barnet, his family and Sujeed the cook know every tree in Ladakh, Lahaul and Spiti, are full-blooded nature lovers and have probably climbed any peak in this region. Consequently, we had great conversations and they really raised our appetite to cycle through Lahaul and Spiti, our upcoming adventure :) On top of that, they run a rooftop café with a 360 degrees view of the surrounding mountains and amazing food. Thus, we left well prepared and well fed for the first hurdle on our way to Spiti, the Rohtang Pass, let’s go!
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  • Rohtang Pass

    June 5, 2018 in India

    The serpentines up there were countless and in the distance we could clearly see the road: A white snake (99% of the cars are white) meandering up the mountains, probably the highest traffic jam in the world (although they’ve limited the number of cars to 1200 per day). We could easily overtake them and luckily, the day we made the final climb was a Tuesday, so the road was closed for the public and only trucks supplying the population on the other side of the pass we’re allowed. We left our ‘base camp’ early and the road was ours :)

    The pass itself is rather unspectacular, but it’s the gateway to another world and the landscape changed dramatically behind: Rough mountains and unreachable, snowy peaks, we’re back in the Himalayas! And have never been so high with our bicycles...
    Hello Lahaul!

    A few Indians were up there though, wearing the funny old-fashioned snowsuits you can rent everywhere along the road since Manali. We were actually wondering for what, but when we reached Rohtang and continued for a bit we saw it: Indian tourists rolling from one side to the other in a few, grey remainings of snow, armed with selfie sticks and dressed with these awful suits. So funny to watch! This is what some of them came all the way from south India for, and some did not even make it to the pass because of traffic jam and lack of time - absolutely insane!
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