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  • Day 4

    Agra, Taj Mahal at al

    February 25, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    6.45 we set off for the train station in taxis, our driver obviously thought it was a matter of life and death as he drove like a complete lunatic, speeding and hooting his horn, winding from one lane to the other, the thing was at this time in the morning their was hardly any traffic!!!

    We were heading to Agra. Breakfast is included on the train and was like airline food years ago, prepacked with a spicy rolled something or other and ketchup! This was apparently, one of India's fastest trains. Our carriage stated it was made in 2014?? It definitely needed some TLC. The doors were held closed by bolts, obviously an added necessity, which themselves were perilously loose.  The journey was about three hours. Everyone was very polite and it went quite quickly. We had been told to get off quickly as the train only stopped for two minutes.

    We headed to the Red Fort, a little way out of Agra. Larger and grander than Deli's Red Fort. . 

    The Red Fort was fabulous, with intricate patterned red stonework, with lattice work, huge symmetrical ornate red and white buildings. Once again there was a Summer and Winter Palace, very intricately decorated with inlaid semi precious stones and all using natural paints. From here we glimpsed our first view of the Taj Mahal in the distance across the river Yamuna.

    Next stop at a carpet manufacturer to see how hand made rugs are made. It was fascinating, the process is simple but time consuming, it takes 1 to 2 years to make a complex patterned rug. Two people work at a hand loom, the pattern hangs on one side, one nearest the pattern sings the pattern when it is complicated or changes. Made by knotting the wool in a simple knot round each individual vertical strand and hand cutting it. The people we saw working were very deft at their trade. Out workers in local villages make the carpets on looms in their homes. 

    Made from silk and wool mixes they are supremely soft and hard wearing. The fabric and complexity makes the price. Once knotting is complete they are washed and hand trimmed the pattern is clear on the back and front.

    Considering the time to make them they are very cheap. James was really taken with them and we would have liked to buy one but they wouldn't fit in at home. There were many different designs, most of them beautiful and traditional in style. Some were copies of important art works.

    After sprucing ourselves up, the ladies in dresses we set off again to visit the jewel of our trip the Taj Mahal. It was exciting and expectation was high. The first view when walking towards the arch gate caused a ripple of exhilaration. The white Mausoleum gleaming in the sunshine, radiating light.  The best view is from a slight distance when you are in awe of it's majesty. As you get closer you can see the definition and shimmer of the contrasting stones used to cover the building. It really is incredibly special. 

    Despite the crowds, it was Saturday and felt very busy, there is plenty of space to wander and to view. 

    The Taj Mahal was built as a final resting place for Mumtaz Mahal ( chosen one of the Palace ) favourite wife of Shah Jahan. She died after giving birth to their 14th child in 1631.
    When Shah died in 1666 he was laid next to her. He spent his last years imprisoned here by his son. In view of his memorial to his beloved wife the Taj Mahal.

    Built to frame the Taj Mahal on each side there are less spectacular, still very ornate red buildings, these have immaculate carvings and stone work too. 

    Inside the Mausoleum marble screens shield the coffins from direct view, it should be quite and calm. Sadly it was very noisy and chaotic, with a very unhappy baby to top it all. This didn't detract from the beauty outside, but took away the serenity of the moment. ( I wished we hadn't gone inside.)

    We saw the sun going down and the colours on the domes and towers change from yellow to dusky pale pink, all very beautiful.

    Eating in Agra was at a rooftop restaurant, the streets were very noisy and heaving with activitie. Our meal was accompanied by horns tooting and rickshaw noises not to mention the noisy people. The food was good but the ambiance was questionable. We were well looked after though and the place was busy, always a good sign. Then back to the hotel.
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