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India Feb/March 2023

February - March 2023
We planned this trip for our 60th Birthdays in 2020, but due to the pandemic, it was postponed. Read more
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  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 2

    Arrived in Delhi and walking tour

    February 23, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Setting off from Bingham train station to Heathrow, we began our nearly 4000-mile journey. Arriving in Delhi at 8 am local time in our heads still 2.30 am UK time. We had little sleep on the flight as it was busy and noisy. There was an argumentative young man across from us who was loud and a little aggressive to the family in front of him. 

    Arriving at our hotel, happily we could check in and splashed our faces before setting off on a Food tour of Old Delhi.

    Manju our guide grew up in Delhi and was passionate about her home City. She showed us many beautiful places in Old Delhi that we would not have discovered on our own. We tried tasty street food and walked through many tiny lanes, which, although extremely narrow, had 2 way motorcycles passing us at speed.

    The businesses in the area were grouped together, so we saw a whole area of wedding shops. There were whole shops selling wedding stationery this was very ornate. Weddings are clearly expensive events here. We also walked through hardwear areas, as well as ornate metal housewares.

    We also explored the spice market where the aroma and spices in the air meant that we were soon inhaling, cinnamon, clove and chilli to name a few.

    Even in these narrow lanes life was frenetic. At one place we stopped for sweet black tea with spices. We were invited into the shop next door to chat  with the proprieter with orange hair. Dyed with henna a natural dye to show he was Musslim

    To end the tour we were taken to Manju's family Haveli ( home) to taste their cooking. This was delicious. We felt a bit like we had been kidnapped as we hadn't expected this. They took lots of photos of us in their home , this felt rather strange. It was a very traditional, wealthy house in one of the narrow lanes, which had been in the family for eight generations.

    Despite the slightly crazy, noisy, crowded, hustle and bustle, we were completely exhilarated by the sights sounds and smells of Old Delhi. We had survived our first day in India and although we stuck out like a pair of sore thumbs, we had felt at ease most of the day.

    The five and a half hour time difference and very little sleep on the flight had caught up with us. I slept so well, but James was kept awake by the street dogs, and traffic.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    2
    Day 3

    Delhi

    February 24, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Friday morning was Metro time, heading back to Old Delhi with our new travelling companions. The Metro was efficient and clean, quite busy to me, we were told to push, push, push to make sure that we got on. Thankfully we only had to shove a little!
    We walked then rode in a cycle rickshaw amongst the crazy traffic. Highly entertaining seeing vehicles coming and going in all directions, seemingly with no rules. Apparently it is all done with the eyes and head wobbles, plus a large amount of luck. Despite the chaos we felt safe.

    We walked past very ornate and very simple temples, all had fresh flowers in, people were worshipping as they passed while continuing in their daily tasks.

    Next stop for some spiritual calm. Built
    by a Mughal Emperor between 1644 and 1656 Jama Masjid Delhi's oldest Mosque is India's largest. Built of the local red stone and lavishly decorated with white marble it was built as a symbolic gesture of Islamic power throughout India. The name translates to Congregational Mosque or Friday Mosque, a common name for Islamic Mosques around the world.

    Removing our shoes, women also had to wear a gown, we entered the huge square. Large enough to accommodate 25,000 praying souls. The huge prayer hall has three beautiful domes and towers at each side.
    James went to the top of one of the towers to get a birds eye view of Delhi prostrate below.

    Then on to a Sikh temple Sheeshgamj Gurudwara , it was built here to mark the place where the ninth Sikh Guru was beheaded in 1675. Built in 1783 as a small shrine, the present building was built in 1930 with the gold dome being added a little later.

    The temple is a Haven of peace amongst the chaos and noise in the streets. It is beautiful inside and out. Inside is lavishly decorated with gold and rich fabrics. Live devotional music is played throughout each day. This was very atmospheric and added to the solemnity.

    Just across the courtyard is a community kitchen where thousands are fed daily, lunch and evening. The food is grown and provided by donors and charities, all prepared by volunteers, everyone is welcome. This happens across India.

    At some point we visited Agrasen Ki Baoli step well which was incredibly beautiful, built in three levels. Possibly before the 14thc. It has one hundred and eight steps, as it rains the well fills up and people could access it easily via the steps. Now everyone has running water so they are not used.

    To make the most of the few hours left in Delhi we set off to see more sites, with a driver to take us around. The Gandhi museum which is situated where he was assassinated , was sadly disappointing, the rooms where he spent his last days were interesting, but failed to give enough detail of his life to feed our interest.

    We passed the India Gate a military memorial of WW1, heading to Humayun's Tomb. Humayun was the second Mughal Emperor and this was Delhi's first Mughal mausoleum. Supervised by Haji Begum his senior wife who is now intered alongside
    Made of local red sandstone inlaid with black and white marble the octagonal building is set on a raises platform in a formal garden. It is a huge area with beautiful gardens and other tombs laid out very formally.

    Dinner was at a cafe nearby, 10 minutes walk along the main road the pavement all broken and twisted and electrical wires hanging ready to trip us up or strangle us as we passed. We were forced to walk on the edge of the road and compete with the 2 wheeled vehicles and tuktuks, of course going in both direction.
    Dinner was great though.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 4

    Agra, Taj Mahal at al

    February 25, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    6.45 we set off for the train station in taxis, our driver obviously thought it was a matter of life and death as he drove like a complete lunatic, speeding and hooting his horn, winding from one lane to the other, the thing was at this time in the morning their was hardly any traffic!!!

    We were heading to Agra. Breakfast is included on the train and was like airline food years ago, prepacked with a spicy rolled something or other and ketchup! This was apparently, one of India's fastest trains. Our carriage stated it was made in 2014?? It definitely needed some TLC. The doors were held closed by bolts, obviously an added necessity, which themselves were perilously loose.  The journey was about three hours. Everyone was very polite and it went quite quickly. We had been told to get off quickly as the train only stopped for two minutes.

    We headed to the Red Fort, a little way out of Agra. Larger and grander than Deli's Red Fort. . 

    The Red Fort was fabulous, with intricate patterned red stonework, with lattice work, huge symmetrical ornate red and white buildings. Once again there was a Summer and Winter Palace, very intricately decorated with inlaid semi precious stones and all using natural paints. From here we glimpsed our first view of the Taj Mahal in the distance across the river Yamuna.

    Next stop at a carpet manufacturer to see how hand made rugs are made. It was fascinating, the process is simple but time consuming, it takes 1 to 2 years to make a complex patterned rug. Two people work at a hand loom, the pattern hangs on one side, one nearest the pattern sings the pattern when it is complicated or changes. Made by knotting the wool in a simple knot round each individual vertical strand and hand cutting it. The people we saw working were very deft at their trade. Out workers in local villages make the carpets on looms in their homes. 

    Made from silk and wool mixes they are supremely soft and hard wearing. The fabric and complexity makes the price. Once knotting is complete they are washed and hand trimmed the pattern is clear on the back and front.

    Considering the time to make them they are very cheap. James was really taken with them and we would have liked to buy one but they wouldn't fit in at home. There were many different designs, most of them beautiful and traditional in style. Some were copies of important art works.

    After sprucing ourselves up, the ladies in dresses we set off again to visit the jewel of our trip the Taj Mahal. It was exciting and expectation was high. The first view when walking towards the arch gate caused a ripple of exhilaration. The white Mausoleum gleaming in the sunshine, radiating light.  The best view is from a slight distance when you are in awe of it's majesty. As you get closer you can see the definition and shimmer of the contrasting stones used to cover the building. It really is incredibly special. 

    Despite the crowds, it was Saturday and felt very busy, there is plenty of space to wander and to view. 

    The Taj Mahal was built as a final resting place for Mumtaz Mahal ( chosen one of the Palace ) favourite wife of Shah Jahan. She died after giving birth to their 14th child in 1631.
    When Shah died in 1666 he was laid next to her. He spent his last years imprisoned here by his son. In view of his memorial to his beloved wife the Taj Mahal.

    Built to frame the Taj Mahal on each side there are less spectacular, still very ornate red buildings, these have immaculate carvings and stone work too. 

    Inside the Mausoleum marble screens shield the coffins from direct view, it should be quite and calm. Sadly it was very noisy and chaotic, with a very unhappy baby to top it all. This didn't detract from the beauty outside, but took away the serenity of the moment. ( I wished we hadn't gone inside.)

    We saw the sun going down and the colours on the domes and towers change from yellow to dusky pale pink, all very beautiful.

    Eating in Agra was at a rooftop restaurant, the streets were very noisy and heaving with activitie. Our meal was accompanied by horns tooting and rickshaw noises not to mention the noisy people. The food was good but the ambiance was questionable. We were well looked after though and the place was busy, always a good sign. Then back to the hotel.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 5

    Bassi to Fort Madhogarh

    February 26, 2023 in India ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Travelling by bus we headed to Bassi, a small town in the centre of Rajasthan. 

    Then on to nearly 400 year old Fort Madhogarh. Owned by the King ( land owner ) of the local area, and converted to a heritage hotel in 2000. It is an imposing site high on the hill top. Sitting on sheer rock and reached by a winding climb circling the hill, we were welcomed by a red carpet. Before we entered our foreheads were anointed with a red dot and garlands of flowers placed around our necks.

    Entering we were in awe of the incredible building, it was very simply decorated but very stylish. There were outside areas leading to our rooms all of which were very individual and which were spread throughout the Fort.

    We had an amazing room, our bed was set in a raised area with stained glass windows on three sides. 

    All the staircases are built unevenly with very high steps to make it more difficult for intruders to run in. The ceilings snd doorways are low for the same reason.

    We had a very tasty vegetarian lunch in the courtyard, with very attentive waiters.
    The family who owned the Fort were entertaining guests on a higher balcony. There was much laughter.

    Later as it cooled down a bit we went for a walk around the village, which was lovely, all the children came to run along with us, smiling and laughing as we went. The adults were also fascinated by us.

    We saw piles of broken clay water containers waiting to be recycled. There was disarray everywhere, muck and piles of discarded allsorts, broken down homes, sheds and shacks. It was chaotic as seems the normal here, the local people appeared happy.

    A farming community, everyone's  cow or cows were waiting outside their houses to be let in and fed. We brought some bracelets from a lady making them in her tiny shop. Everything is so cheap it was 150 rupees for four bangles. That is £1.50!!

    The men were sitting outside here and there gossiping, something they apparently spend a lot of time doing. According to what we have seen and Tony our guide. Who told us that Indian men are experts at gossiping!! 

    Tony is a great guide and companion, coming from Rajasthan this area, he is a wealth of local information. He is gentle and quietly spoken and nothing is too much trouble for him. 

    He is tolerant of those that don't listen and ask the same thing everyday as they haven't listened! 

    We are drip fed information throughout the day so as not to saturate our brains, and to keep us interested. He is happy to talk about life and his family, local customs, religion and anything else we throw into the mix. Occasionally he nods his head side to side and up and down all at once, smiles and changes the subject.

    We had drinks watching the sun go down from a tower at the top of the Fort. Followed by another wonderful meal in the courtyard.

    Our bed looked lovely, but when we investigated the mattress wasn't much thicker than a camping bed. We had a terrible night's sleep, my feet stuck out and my ankles made a tasty meal for someone. The beautiful stained glass window on three sides of our bed was lit up all night by a bright outside light.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 6

    To Jaipur the Pink City

    February 27, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    After a terrible night not sleeping, we had breakfast outside up at the top of the tower watching the sun coming up.

    We headed to Jaipur by bus. Stopping at the Amber Fort just a little way from the Town. It is a huge complex on a hilltop, above Maota Lake. The reflexion on the water was impressive. 

    The path was a winding climb with vendors trying to interest us in their wares along the way. We had to avoid the huge piles of elephant dung, although they were quickly collected. The elephants plodded up and down the path, carrying those whose excitement at the idea of riding an elephant overcame their moral judgement. Adorned with painted nails and body paint, very unbecoming for such noble, intelligent creatures. 

    The Fort is very imposing. Made of the lighter sandstone, built in Rajput style.

    Inside the occupants had different areas for summer and winter, opposing each other. The summer Palace is on the sunnier side and is decorated with light and airy pale colours, walls are inlaid turquoise. Very cooling to the eye.  The walls and openings would have been draped with silks and lightly carpeted. 

    In the summer Palace their would be natural air flow to cool the building, and more natural sunlight. It also had a water channel flowing through it.

    The Winter Palace would be on the less sunny side and have thick woollen drapes and thick rugs on the floor. The area would have big fireplaces and be insulated with thick walls. It was decorated with mirrors to reflect any candlelight and light the place with minimal effort.

    Like all places we have visited health and safety is non existent. We climbed some very steep uneaven, crumbling steps to a roof to view the courtyard below.

    Later we visited a jewellery shop, we were shown the local semi precious stones before they were cut. The jewellery was all too fancy for our liking. It was a huge store and like other places we were given chai and samosas.

    Tony suddenly asked if we wanted Lassi and we all headed to a great place just round the corner. Lassi is a yoghurt drink which can be sweet and slightly spiced, fruity, mango is our favourite or salty. Locally served in rustic clay cups which are recycled into more of the same.

    Then onto our hotel and a short siesta before heading out to a Bollywood dance lesson at a rooftop bar that we were having dinner. This was so much fun. I was awful but really enjoyed it, James was much more coordinated than I.

    We idled the rest of the evening away, while watching kites flying, so high in the sky around us.

    We were wondering why we couldn't get on line and found out that the Internet had been shut down for the day. It was an exam day and they closed it so that no one could cheat!!    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 7

    Jaipur wandering

    February 28, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    A lie in!! We didn't have to meet until 9! Then we went on an interesting walk around the wakeing town. Most of the shops were still closed except for a few that sold food. The majority didn't open until 10.30 or 11, it was much quieter than we had seen it before. Traders were setting up their stalls and sweeping and cleaning ready for the day ahead.

    The flower market was a beautiful array of marigolds, orange, yellow and white and red roses. The roses smelt just like traditional old fashioned ones do. It was wonderful. A lady sitting cross legged on the floor gave us each a red rose. It amazes me as someone who's hips are so tight, to see Indian people sitting cross legged for so long. Obviously they sit like that from an early age, making their hips so much more flexible.

    All the flowers arrive in sacks already beheaded as the stall holders make them into garlands which are used at celebrations and to take to temples to honour the God's.

    We saw fabric being block printed on our next stop. Like the carpet makers we saw in Delhi, out workers in the villages near by are employed to print the fabrics at home. The dye is made of natural plant materials, applied with wooden stencils, sometimes 10 colours over laid to complete the design then laid out in the sunshine to fix the colours. The shop was full of the most beautiful fabrics, cotton through to silk mixes, they were hard to resist. 

    We brought a dressing gown each and a shirt for Ada with elephants on it. I also brought 4 pieces of fabric to make a patchwork quilt.

    Lunch followed at a rooftop cafe opposite the Palace of wind, Hawa Mahal. The cafe was a great place to view the Palace.
    Built in 1799 five storey high, it looks like a facade, it is a really intricate symmetrical building with many little windows. All are shielded with intricate patterns of stone so that the ladies of the court could look out but no one could see in.

    Thr cafe had a mixed menu and I had falafel, hummus in a wrap. It took a long time to come but it was nice to have something different.

    We then had time to wander along the steets, full of small shops with people trying to entice us in. James wanted some slippers and was prepared for a hard bargain. We left the shop with the vendor calling after us. Then on our way back later, he spotted us and agreed to James terms. Cheap slippers! 

    In the evening we went on a Jeep safari, through the new town and then up a very tortuous road at speed of course to the remains of a castle and another step well, high in the hills above the Blue City. It was a fabulous view we could see all the sites that we had passed during the day, way down below us. The sun set and we hurtled down the bouncy, suicidal track back to our hotel.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 8

    Tiger Ranthambhore N Park

    March 1, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We had a good breakfast as we were off for a four hour / 200km drive to Ranthambhore National Park. 

    The countryside was mostly arable when we eventually escaped from Jaipur. It was rush hour and the City sprawled on, we went through the modern area of the City, which we had seen at dusk last night. The are is fast developing and there are some very modern smart buildings. 

    We stopped to buy some fruit from roadside sellers and to top up from the ATM.

    Arable land took over as we travelled on. Many fields of mustard seeds were being cut by hand and laid to dry in swathes. 

    It was interesting to see life on the roadside, many individuals doing business, selling a few of this or that. Loan street dogs happily taking themselves, only they knew where. Many, many sacred cows. The cow is sacred as the spirits of the gods reside in them. They represent Mother Nature providing milk for the family. Cows are fed with the first chapatti of the day, so make their way home in time for this in the evening! Many families have a cow for milk to make ghee and curd.

    People place a water container outside their home so that the animals can have a drink. A lot of these cows wander along the road, in either direction. Living and often sleeping in the middle of the road and feeding on whatever they can find. They shuffle through the rubbish which is all over the place, and eat whatever they take a liking to.

    I was disturbed by this as cows can't digest plastic! I imagined it causing blockages and the cows becoming very sick. Then dying a slow snd painful death.
    There are refuges that take in old and ill cows, some cows have as much as 50kg of plastic in their stomach when operated on to remove the blockages.

    Arriving at Raj Palace Ranthambhore we checked into the hotel and were picked up by a huge 20 seater open top vehicle to take us into the game park. 

    Visiting is strictly limited morning and afternoon. The park is divided into 10 areas and the drivers told which they can go to. There are 135 resident tigers. We went to area 3, where a male and female tiger lived. We saw hundreds of peacocks, Indias national bird and several types of deer ( tiger food )!

    The lakes in the park have long grasses growing on the shores, this is apparently where tigers like to hang out. In places the undergrowth was very dense, in other areas trees were well spaced out. We were looking along the banks of the lakes, driving around for some time we thought we were out of luck. Then on the opposite bank we spotted a female tiger in the water with her back to us. She was a beautiful rich colour. She was difficult to see due to the distance and the trees between us. We watched and made sure everyone had spotted her, then I saw her get up and meander up the hill into the bush. I felt quite emotional, what a wonderful experience even though we had only seen her from the distance. 

    We returned to the hotel and sat in the garden for a drink, exhilarated and dusty from the drive. We felt honoured to have seen the tiger.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 9

    Bundi

    March 2, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Leaving on our bus we set off for Bundi the other blue town. Stopping on the way to learn what chickpea plants look like, and at a roadside place where they were making bricks. This seemed a very simple process, mix mud with sand and cement and shape it in a mould with identification markings in. Let them dry in the sun. Build a huge stack of bricks layered with coke and straw then set this alight, slowly the bricks are baked as it all smoulders away.

    Bundi is one of the small lesser visited town famous for it's step Wells. We stopped on our way to view one which was dizzying deep. The steps just kept on going down into the slightly murky water. It was beautifully designed with elephants and snakes, and intricate arches at the bottom.

    We were heading to the 16th Century Palace famous for some amazing murals. They were stunning, of elephants fighting and royal processions, the colours still so perfect. The room was dark except when it was opened for viewings.

    We walked back through the town to another step well surrounded by the town Market. It was all very busy, we caused great interest as we meandered along the streets, observing life from hand to mouth. It was colourful and fragrant, lots of garlic on the veg markets. We saw a lady selling chicken peas and tasted a fresh chickpea for the first time.
    The people are very generous and happy to let us try tastes and give a flower to us as we pass by. Most smile as they see us looking and watch us, the interest goes both ways.

    We stayed in another Heritage hotel. Which was ornate with decorative arches in the reception, and carvings. We had a room on the ground floor. Which was comfortable but very basic. I was feeling tired I think as I felt a little disheartened, the bedding was clean but not the smoothest. The pillow well used and maybe I felt a touch homesick.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 10

    Paangarh Lake Glamping

    March 3, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    We caught a local train, which was interesting although it was not very busy. We were the focus amongst the local people as they were to us. There was loud music from someone's phone and the people didn't seem at all aware of the noise they were making. Talking loudly and gesticulating vigorously.

    Our next sleep over was a new Indian experience, Glamping in permanent tents on the shore of Lake Paangarh.
    The tents were roomy with double or twin beds and a fully plumbed bathroom at the back. They were prettily decorated with patterned inners with plants and birds on.
    The bed was great!

    We arrived in time for lunch, we chose a mixed veg dish and chickpea dish with butter chapati yummy. It was really tasty food.

    Going for a walk around the lake for a short while after lunch we discovered
    the glamping site was being developed and will soon have a pool, and some lodges overlooking the lake.
    The trees were all in flower ,oranges and pinks so very impressive. There were a lot of the orange ones all together, they looked very pretty.

    We saw some buffalo ahead and a lady watching over them. She shooed then away by throwing a stone at the one who was showing interest in us and they went away. We walked a little further on then decided to go back but the buffalo had followed us. Some of the group were very scared. The buffalo turned to go ahead of us and eventually ran off to the side as people were coming the other way.

    James went for a sleep as he was feeling poorly with a headache.

    We sat by the lake and chatted and had drinks before dinner. The table was beautifully laid with rose petals strewn on it and dinner was very tasty.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia Feb/March 2023
    Day 11

    Bijaipur

    March 4, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We didn't have to leave until 9.30 so breakfast was at 8. I slept well, the bed had a nicer, smooth duvet on where as most of the others have been very lumpy and felt like old blankets inside a cover.
    The lake looked beautiful in the morning light, with all the orange coloured flowers on the trees reflecting the light.
    A man with an alsation dog was fly fishing he was hoping to catch snakehead fish? He said with a big head and long body.

    We were picked up in the jeeps that we travelled in yesterday. Visiting a local farm to see what was being grown, was fun. We stopped to look at the crops in a small area, there was coriander and other herbs, garlic, onions, cabbage, chickpeas, and some crops for the cattle.
    We had seen enclosed netted off areas where they were growing poppies for medical companies to make opium. The companies know how much opium each area will produce so there is no room for error!
    The seed heads are scratched after the flowers have fallen, causing them to bleed a back liquid from which the drug is extracted
    If anyone is caught in possession they go to prison for 25 years with no trial.

    It is made by scratching the seed heads to bleed them of the black milk and collecting it. This is done when the poppies have flowered, and before the seeds dry out. It is weighed and a register is kept of the quantity of each yield.

    The lady whose plot we were looking at wasn't happy when one of us went into the netted area. She shouted and banged a stick on her pan that she was making her breakfast in.

    We then went on to the village where we were welcomed like celebrities. Everyone was smiling and waving to us and we saw some happy, smiling children and their families. They all wanted their photo taking, James took lots.
    We saw a lot of bantam like chickens here all scrabbling about in the dust.

    Then back to the jeeps and the bumpy Road and on to our next Heritage stay at Bijaipur.

    It was the most wonderful surprise to arrive at the castle Bijaipur. Built in early sixteenth century the Heritage property is owned by the local King whose family have lived there for thirteen generations.

    We were welcomed with a cold drink and cool flannels to wipe our hands. A garland placed round our necks. The gardens were very colourful and everything well kept, cut flowers floating in water around the pool area.

    Once again we had a beautiful room, with red bedding and a raised seating area infront of a window overlooking the courtyard. We were sitting drinking tea with the window open, I looked up to see a swarm of bees all around outside, heading for the window. Lucky I manage do close it just in time.

    The room had a dressing room and the bathroom was at the far end. The doorways were really low and there was also a step so I was convinced one of us would crash our head in the night but we didn't.

    James didn't feel well, he had a cold and sinus headache so just slept for the afternoon. I made the most of being able to relax, I had my hand henna painted. The girl who did it was very efficient, it took 5 minutes and she drew freehand. She drew four completely different ones payterns and they were all perfect.

    When the henna was set I had a swim, it was great to cool off in the lovely pool. I wasn't going to have a massage due to my fragrance allergy but Carol described the foot and lower leg massage she had and I was up for it.
    This was pure heaven, the masseuse knelt on the couch at my feet as she deeply massaged my calves, under my feet and ankles.

    Dinner was a buffet under the stars, it was a clear night. The food was brilliant, the best yet, slightly sweet, nutty, spicy dhal, mixed vegetables with peas and red carrots that have far more flavour than our orange ones. Split aubergines with spicy sauce, there are several different types of small aubergines here. Very long basmatti rice and spinach with potatoes
    Rice pudding flavoured with cardamon, pistachio and a tiny amount of dried fruit for desert.

    This is the sort of dishes we have had in many places, but this definitely had the most subtle fresh flavours.    Read more

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