• Sarah Bradwell

Morocco Sept 30th/15th Oct 25

A 16-day adventure by Sarah Read more
  • Trip start
    September 30, 2025

    Setting off

    September 30 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Setting off at 8.30 with Denise kindly giving us a lift to Bingham train, we were soon on our way to Gatwick. Our flight was at 15.00, and James had access to a complementary lounge, so we had a glass of vino and lunch on the house.
    Arriving at Marrakech about 18.35, we were met by the cool, stern gaze of the passport control chappie. A taxi rushed us through the crazy busy streets as the sun was setting. It was rush-hour but he soon delivered us to our hotel next to the train station.
    Desperate for a beer, we headed to the bar, where the bar man spoke English, French, and local Arabic. Two beers and a nicoise salad later, we both felt a little more human although ready for bed. Even seamless travelling can be so tiring!

    I spent yesterday trying to decide what to pack as after checking, we decided we needed more layers for cool nights, and I needed to cover my shoulders to be respectful. My bag seemed heavy and full, but surprisingly, it wasn't much more than James.

    Tomorrow morning we will catch the train to Casablanca at 9.30.
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  • Marakkech to Casablanca

    October 1 in Morocco ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Didn't sleep well at all, probably my fault as I did Sudoku before sleep, lesson learnt! The bed was very hard and the pillow like a very uncomfortable wedge!
    Breakfast was great. Lots of sweet cakes and pastries, but avoided them and had yoghurt and orange and dates. Then a pancake and jam.
    We were joined by a little tabby kitten with a fluffy tail. It came in somehow, and the waiter tried to shoo them out, but they disappeared into another part of the hotel!

    The train to Casablanca was at 9, so we headed round the corner to the station. Very handy hotel, thanks, JB! We were in first class!! A six seater carriage with quite wide, fairly comfortable seats. We were the first in our carriage but were shortly joined by an Irish couple and then a local couple, all with big bags. Which had to stand in the corridor.
    The journey was about three hours long, James had his accounts to do and needed me to read out the figures to him, I was conscious that this may be annoying to our travel companions but it didn't take to long.

    The hotel was once more very near to the train station Casa Voyageurs. We dropped our bags, and we couldn't check in yet. Then, Iwe jumped into a taxi to Rick's Bar... had to be done! It was rather disappointing outside but hit the spot once we were in. We sat and had Aperol at the bar, which was very good. It was fun. Everyone was taking pics, and the waiters and bar staff were happy to be photographed.

    We then walked to Hassam 11 Mosque, the third largest in the world, the largest being in Mecca. In order to enter, we had to join a tour. It was huge, unbelievably huge, and extremely beautiful inside and out, so many mosaics, so much intricate carving, I found it quite unbelievable. It was only completed 1993 and overlooks the Atlantic Ocean. It is constructed mainly of granite, marble, plaster, and wood from within Morocco and was paid for by the people of Morocco, making it belong to everyone.
    It can hold 25,000 inside, women up on a higher floor and men in the main hall and 80.000 in the plaza.
    We then walked along the seafront, which started out as a pleasant stroll along with others. However, as we walked further, we realised that we were in a dodgy area with dropouts hanging around. There was no way off the path, but we could see that there was a shopping centre a short way ahead, so ducking under a fence headed there.
    We had MacDonalds. I am ashamed to say we just needed speedy sustenance.

    Returning to the hotel Al Walid, we had a short time before the group meeting at 6, when we would meet our group and companions for the next 2 weeks. The tour leader is very young and seems quite sweet. The group mostly from down under, 9 from Australia, 4 from New Zealand, a Chinease American and ourselves. Our guide Mo was very young but keen. After introductions, we went via the tram to a restaurant where we tried our first Moroccan Tagine, not bad!
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  • Tangier to Chefchaouen

    October 2 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Setting off on the TGV train to Tangier at 9 O'clock we had plenty of time for breakfast at the hotel. It was not as fresh as the previous day, but OK. Back to the station across the square, it was a double-decker train, we were on the lower deck it was comfy, and there was plenty of space.
    Once in Tangier, we were going on a mini bus tour, we headed to a supermarket to pick up a picnic lunch, bread, cheese tomatoes and jambon, along with some tasty greengage. We went to a park overlooking the sea, it was wooded and obviously a popular place for locals and tourists. There was an abundance of cats, mostly looking very healthy. One tortoiseshell was particularly cheeky getting up on the bench beside us and eventually onto the table, ignoring us flapping and shooing at it.
    We drove out to the coast where you can easily see Spain, and Gibraltar is just along the coast opposite. Then, we made our first trip into a Medina, we wandered along the outside, where the shops were mostly touristy, then found food, spice, and nut shops. The spices and herbs looked great, some I didn't recognise. We brought some huge, juicy dates and some walnuts still whole although shelled.
    Getting out was a little tricky, but James followed his nose, and we came out near to where we had entered. Picking up an ice cream on our way. There was an abundance of fake trainers and shoes, lots of jewellery, clothing, and leather goods, as well as pretty cups and gifts with mosaic designs.

    After this, it was back on the minibus for the 2 to 3 hour drive to Chefchaouen, the blue city. We were travelling up towards the Atlas mountains to the Rif Mountains. The hills became higher and more rugged and rocky, and the fast-moving clouds were below the hilltops. It had been windy all day, but we were surprised how fast the clouds were moving. There were several dams along the way, with long lakes before them. We past lots of crops but couldn't identify them from our perch in the vehicle.
    Eventually, as the road climbed and twisted, we were aware of coming into a wealthy area with miles of ornamental road lights on either side.
    We could see some blue buildings and there were blue railings as well as the lights, the town was very busy, full of people bustling about. We came to the hotel and unpacked the bus, making our way inside to be given a glass of tea and a strange biscuit that was neither sweet or particularly savory but had sesame seeds in.
    The hotel was very brightly, painted in Moroccan style, each room being different. Ours was very red and felt a bit like a film set!
    When we walked into town we realised why it is called the blue city. The alleyways were higgledy pigledy, up steps and down and were painted many shades of blue a lot being soft baby blue.
    We ate in a square with many restaurants in it opposite the Castle. We had a Mez type to start olives, babagonoush, bean dip, and bread. Followed by shrimps in garlic butter for me and a chicken dish for James. We had mint lemonade to drink which I had drunk in Costa Rica. Last night and tonight there was no alcohol at the restaurant.
    Our room was comfortable but noisy as it was on the first floor overlooking the street. But we both got to sleep, with most of the weighty duvet piled up between us!
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  • Exploring Chefchaouen

    October 3 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Meeting at 9, we met our guide for the morning. He was a happy, friendly man with a strong accent, meaning we had to concentrate hard to hear him, although his English was very good. He took us through the Medina, as it is Friday morning, the shops weren't open. Which made it a much more pleasant experience all together as we could move about easily. We wandered through the tiny lanes, admiring the many blue painted doors and walls. The houses seem so small and such irregular shapes, with steps winding around them and many arches over our heads. We saw people sitting painting the views and locals going about there day. There were lots of dogs lying around or wandering amongst the people. The street dogs have tags on their earth show they have been vaccinated. The cats are much more numerous. They are fed by the locals. We saw piles of cat food and tubs of water dotted about. We saw cats in all sizes and colours, although there were a lot of white ones and non were over weight, most looked well.

    There are two ovens that burn so people can take things to be baked and we saw them, at one a lady and her tiny son were carrying small branches and dried herb stems to burn. The Medina housed the Jews from 1760 and started to mix the blue, indigo with the whitewashed ochre. In contrast to the green of Islam.

    We climbed the tower of the small castle in the central square where we had good views over the city and beyond. Inside was a small prison and some details of the intricate handwork involved in carving the interior of such places. Unfortunately, there was no English description!

    We had lunch in the square, prawn and avocado salad for me and soup for James. Unfortunately, he ordered the wrong soup so was a bit disappointed. We had seen others with a bean soup that he wanted.

    We headed back to the hotel for a doze. James slept for a while, I for about 30 mins which was plenty for me.

    We walked up to the Spanish Mosque on a hilltop overlooking the town to watch the sunset. It was a popular activity but wasn't crowded and was worth the 40 minute wait. It amazed us how quickly the sun eventually disappeared.

    We went to dinner at a hotel with three floors of restaurant, the service was slow to begin with but the food was tasty and we all enjoyed what we had. They even had a beer on the menu, which was smooth and just what we fancied.
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  • To Fez via Roman ruins of Volubilis

    October 4 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    No rush to get up today as we weren't leaving until 11. We had to get something for lunch so wandered down to a less touristy area and found fruit and veg shops and cheese , olives, tomatoes, bread and fruit, a feast.

    Heading to Fez via Volubilis the remains of an ancient Roman town where we had a guide to take us round. We stopped for lunch at a place with a cafe and facilities and tables for picnicking. Our food went down well and we had a good chat in the shade near a swimming pool.

    Voubilis was a huge are of stones and pillars around a central square and what had been big houses and official buildings. There was a beautiful archway with Roman writing across the top and we could see where roads and the water works ran through the town. There were three mosaics that were on amazing condition, made from stone of different colours, so the colours can still be seen, especially when they were wet.
    The guide was a charming man, very weathered and worn with a cheeky mischievous face. He spoke slowly and clearly so was easier to follow.

    It was another hour and half before we reached Fez.
    The scenery we had driven through had changed dramatically throughout the long journey. From rough barren looking areas with only olive trees growing to huge expanses of very fertile land which had been harvested and now looked bare. The earth changed from grey to yellow to green and the landscape became increasingly rolling and eventually quite mountainous.
    Through much of this we saw single donkeys tethered out in the open with no shade,seemingly a long way from anywhere. Herds of few sheep, goats and cattle with a shepherd resting in the shade, became more common throughout the journey.
    The road was very straight in parts, very Roman! And very up and down and round this way and that. The driver was very cautious and responded to the bumps and dimples in the road with attention although at one point he was driving so slowly I thought he was falling asleep!

    We arrived at our hotel about 6.50 and had to be out again at 7.30. We went to a traditional Moroccan meal at a family run grand house. It was a set menu of vegetable salads and bread followed by a filo chicken pie with cinnamon and icing sugar. It was ok, but rather dry and too sweet. We were all happy when they brought out a huge bowl of fruit afterwards.

    Tomorrow we are exploring Fez with a guide.
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  • Exploring the Medina Fez

    October 5 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Meeting our guide for the day, we set off to the entrance to the oldest Medina in Morocco. This is one of the largest car free urban zones in the world. Like stepping back into Medieval times. You enter a bustling world of narrow passages, some only wide enough to allow a person to pass through. Many of the homes have a door within a door. The small one for family the larger for guests, they have separate knockers, distinguishable by their sound. When the door is open you can't see into the homes as there is a wall inside of the door directing you left or right, therefore making it more private. There are no windows to the outside world but windows onto an inner courtyard, providing light and air as well as an out door space.

    There are many businesses in the Medina. Skilled craftsmen can be seen at there trade, we witnessed weaving, wood working, pottery and leather work. Alongside many shops selling daily products, fruit, meat, fish, bread. As well as household products, clothing and luxury goods. The shops are tiny and people shop every day for the days food.
    There are some very ancient and beautiful buildings within the Medina. We saw a restored Inn for camel trains, with three highly decorated floors. The camels stayed in the central courtyard and the rooms above were used by the traders.
    The iconic tannery (seen in many photos) was an interesting place to visit. The skins from the carcasses of goats, cows and camels are turned into beautiful soft leather for coats and bags. We were given sticks of mint leaves to help disguise the horrible ammonia smell. Overlooking the dying tubs we saw skins hanging to dry in the hot sunshine.

    We had a typical Morocco lunch, with cooked vegetable salad to start with and tagine to follow.

    It was a very enjoyable day, tiring especially with the big lunch.
    Back at the hotel about 5.30 to chill for a while.
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  • Long days drive to Sahara desert

    October 6 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    An early start meant that the alarm was set for 5.30 , however I woke for the loo at 3.20 and only dozed after that.
    Leaving at 6 after a quick breakfast we had a very long day of driving to the Sahara desert for a camel caravan ride to our campsite for the night.
    We were away before the traffic really got going, Fez was a huge sprawling city to drive through. Passing through lots of very different areas as we got on our way.

    The drive was very long but we stopped plenty of times. The first terrain was very rocky and dry. Then we passed through some huge cedar forests and then oak trees. There were huge areas that went on for ever and were very samey. Sand stone coloured rocks covered the ground, thousands of small ones and later great cliff's and formations of them. Then came a flat topped hill in the distance it was difficult to work out how high or how big area it cover but it was not small.
    Later there were more similar, smaller ones.
    We entered an area which seemed like the Grand Canyon, a deep valley with bare tall cliff's as far as the eye could see. The strata easily visible. There were several dry river beds and some with a trickle of water flowing through. We approached a large reservoir the water looking turquoise under the blue, cloudless sky.

    We had passed many simple one story dwellings, made of whatever could be found. Bricks, seemingly borrowed from snow walls in places! Wood, plastic and other rubbish and straw and other plant materials. These were the homes of nomads who live in these areas in the summer and moved on to find warmer weather as winter snows approach.
    They mostly had a vehicle, dogs and sheep or goats hanging around outside and were in various states of repair.
    There were flocks of sheep and goats everywhere simply herded by a single male who was often sitting in the shade nearby watching over them. The sheep in the area mostly had black heads and were quite tall.
    There were a lot of feral dogs some alone and others in two's and three's.

    One area well into the journey had field upon field of apples growing some under netting and others not covered. They were laden with apples. The whole city appeared wealthy, very green lawns and gardens on the approach and smart buildings names Apple D'Ore or something similar.

    Then came the palm trees on much lusher ground, green with vegetation and with a river running through. The rock's went back to deep cliff's of grey strata on both sides of the valley, once again similar to the Grand Canyon but on a much smaller scale.

    Eventually we began to see some sand dunes in the distance and couldn't help but hope we were nearly at our destination. However we still had to travel another hour until we stopped at hotel close to the sand dunes.
    We had packed small bags as we were to ride camels to our camp for the night.
    The camels were sitting patiently waiting for us. I was the first to clamber aboard. Feeling very ungainly as the camel stood front legs first then back, rocking me dangerously forward and back.
    As they walked the gait swung us back and forth, with each step, their feet moving in opposition, not together as horses do.
    We had to hang on until we got into the rhythm of it. James was infront of me, I was the last in line. My camel had beautiful long eyelashes and soft looking eyes. It kept putting its head very near to James.
    It was hard work hanging on with our thighs especially when going down hill.
    We stopped and dismounted to take photos as the sun disappeared behind the sand dunes.
    Climbing back onto our trusty beasts we still had thirty minutes till we got to camp.
    There were several camps of white tents set out amongst the huge sand dunes. They looked very attractive with lights set iut to guide us.

    We were pleased to arrive and be welcomed with a cup of mint tea snd some nuts. Then we were shown to our tents, we had a big double bed and electric lighting and a wash tent a few doors down!
    Dinner was rice and chicken tagine which was nice. We had stopped to pick up a couple of beers on the way and they went down well.

    There was a camp fire and we sat around and the locals made music and sang to us.
    Tired out we headed to bed before 10. But have to be on the road again at 6.30.
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  • Drive to High Atlas Mountains

    October 7 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Our room last night was a fixed tent type of structure with a metal double bed, with the heaviest blanket ever and over stuffed boulder like pillows.
    The bed was comfy and the blanket lovely and warm, but my brain was wired when I went to bed and I couldn't sleep for ages. Even though I was so tired after the very long travelling day before.
    We had to be ready to ride the camels back at 6 30, so got up at 6. There seemed no organisation, Mo our guide was not about and there was no tea or anything. We were having breakfast back at the hotel where we met the camels.

    The ride back was lovely the full moon was still visible and was going down infront of us as the sun came up behind. Serene really!
    Our thighs and pelvis' really felt the jolting as the camels walked down hill. We didn't have a break as we had the night before, so were on the camels for a good hour. When mine was told to sit down, it took my legs a few seconds to take my weight.

    We were driving to the Todra Canyon for the next two nights.
    Stopping off to see a place that made furnishings out of local marble full of fossils, many millions of years old. This seemed wrong in a way but the fossils appeared to be very prolific. Some of them looked like fish, snail shells and some bigger beatle like shapes. All from when the Mediterranean Sea covered the lands of Morocco.
    We also stopped to buy huge dates. Which are delicious.
    Later we stopped at a museum which was in an area a little similar to the Medina, cool pathways beneath the buildings. Just wide enough for a cart to pass through. Very old walls made of mud and straw and rushes and palm trees for the ceilings.
    The museum was of the way of life of the local people it was very simple and had some good photos in it.

    Lunch was just next door and was very nice, with a few more choices than previously.

    Then another hour or so drive and we reached our destination a slightly strange hotel near to the head of the valley. The porters earned their tips as they had to take our bags up and down three flights before we even got to the hotels entrance!
    I was feeling tired and grumpy, our room was very simple and had an annoying room layout so we moved things about and it was much better. Had a cool shower and sorted the washing out, then went in search of beer, our luck was in.

    Several of our group have had bad stomachs which is worrying.

    Been a bit fed up with Mo our guide as he is not very proactive, he doesn't seem to be very knowledgeable or want to share information with us. He is very young and a nice chap who wants to please, but seems a bit out of his depth.
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  • Walking in Todra Gorge

    October 8 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Last night and tonight we are staying at the Hotel Kasba Tabourihte.
    I slept really well. We had a choice between two walks today a low level shorter walk or a climb to see Berber homes in the mountains. I wanted to do the later but was worried I wouldn't manage it because of the heat. So decided on the low walk. It was through irrigated land alongside the river where local families grew vegetables and fruit. Each family grows for themselves and then sells any surplus. We saw lots of cabbages, alfalfa, beans, tomatoes, pumpkins, olives and walnuts and almonds. We tasted fresh pomegranate straight from the tree.

    There was a complex irrigation system of wooden and mud channels, raised in places by wooded or metal structures in order to keep it flowing. The water looked very clean and was running fast.

    Our guide was informative and relaxed and good company.

    There were homes and hotels on the other side of the river, some had had to be abandoned due to rock falls, over the years.

    We stopped for a drink overlooking the huge bare red rock cliff's and spotted some climbers about one third of the way up. They still had a very long way to go.

    Walking onwards the gorge narrowed to just the width of the river and road. It was very busy in this area with many buses and cars, and locals with stalls wanting to sell their qares to the tourists. Most of them were selling exactly the same things, tshirts, scarves and jewellery.

    In the middle of it all there was a herd of cute black furry goats, completely ignoring the hustle and bustle.

    We met the other group for lunch they had enjoyed their walk. The first half had been in the shade!
    We had a tasty lunch of fava bean soup, this was by far the best we had tastes. We were given long wooden spoons to eat the soup with, which was quite difficult. This was
    followed by Berber pizza, which was two thin layers of dough with what we thought was chicken, spice and some legumes in between. We also had an interesting dish of vermicelli, almonds, sultanas with a hint of salt and spice as well as a little icing sugar on top. It was light and the flavours subtle and we liked it.

    The restaurant was family run and they supported a cooperative of hand carpet makers. We were shown a little about carpet making and then a display of different types of rugs that they made. They were in some very different styles and were very attractive, made from sheeps, goats or camel wool.
    We made our escape as we didn't want to purchase anything.

    Back at the hotel we had a nap and chilled out. James hadn't been out as he was feeling tired as he hadn't slept well for a few days.
    It was nice to have a couple of hours to relax and catch up, as we are off in the morning.
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  • To Ait Benhaddou

    October 9 in Morocco ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Setting off from the Todra gorge we drove through more incredibly barren and rocky scenery and some amazing little towns built up around river beds, oases of greenery and palm trees. There were towers either side of the road to denote each area. One place where demasc roses are grown and the shops smelled of the beautiful fresh, calming scent. There were all sorts of creams with Rose in, I looked at Rose oil but it qas about £80 and looked rather thin!

    These towns grew up as resting places for caravans of camels carrying good to Marrakech from the corners of Morocco and beyond.
    Visiting Atlas Studios where films have been made since 1980's we had a guided tour qhixh was interesting. The sets are much smaller than you imagine, but great to walk round and imagine the films. We climbed onto carriages out of Ben Hur and Gladiator and wandered through the Tomb from The Mummy . It was scorching hot, too hot to stand for long in the heat.

    Then we headed to hospital as sadly one of the group are not well. We dropped them snd Mo off and then went for lunch with Muhammad our excellent driver.
    We were in a street side cafe and fancying something different spotted that pizza looked good. We both had massive pizzas, we should have shared in hindsight. They were delicious,some of the best pizza dough ever and very tasty topping. We couldn't eat it all and James had his in a box to take for Orlav and Gregg. There was a man with one leg begging on the street and I wanted to give him my leftover pizza but didn't know if I should. However he climbed over the small plant container barrier and helped himself.

    We then picked up Gregg and Orlav and hit the road again.
    We checked in to our hotel about 5.30 and at 6 set off to walk the short distance to Ait Benhaddou. This is a grand Kasbah originating in 17th C now a world heritage site. It qas a steep climb up through the narrow winding stepped lanes.
    Built of mud bricks and wood and stone it is an impressive site. A fortified home with shops and bakeries and all that was needed in the nearby town.
    We watched the sun setting from the top, it was very windy but worth it for the view.

    Heading back to the gust goose for dinner on the Terrace. It was a simple dish of soup, chicken and vegetables with couscous and fruit.

    Sleep time then, after organising our bags for tomorrow, we need to take an overnight bag.
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  • To Mount Toubcal

    October 10 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Breakfast at 7.30 and setting off at 8.30 for 5 hour drive to the foot of Morocco's highest mountain. Here we are staying in a homestay and then walking tomorrow.
    We saw the sun coming up over the village we walked to last night which was very pretty.
    Breakfast was good, some fried bread but not as we know it, which was good with honey and hot boiled eggs.
    We sat at the front as today's drive was to be very mountainous, with lots of hairpin bends and ups and downs. It was great in the first row as we had a clear view of the surroundings.
    The colour of the hills changed several times throughout the long drive. From orangey red to sandy colour to greeny grey and many colours in between. The villages really were perched below steep and crumbling cliff's, and some had been affected by the earthquake two years ago.
    We stopped at a view point with cafe etc and watched the workers in the valley below, like tiny matchstick people. Women were gathering greenery that had been drying and loading it into cloths to load onto the mules. Further along men were repairing a culvert at the side of the path.

    Passing through the amazing Tizi n Tichka pass at 2260m the road was very narrow in places and steep and very windy, with sheer drops round nearly every bend.
    Eventually reaching the village of Imlil where we left our main bags and carried an overnight bag or left it to be carried by the mules. We than set off up the village a busy working place with cars and vans everywhere and people milling round and going about their work. Children were happily playing in the streets and dogs going about there business.
    The path soon left the village and followed a uneven path up the valley along the hillside climbing steadily. We watched life on the other side of the valley in the village as donkeys carrying large loads went up the hill and people came in from the fields.

    Reaching our destination a gite or homestay we were surprised to find there was confusion over where we would all sleep. We sorted it in the end, me sharing with Kim and James with Wen. There was only one toilet between us all!! Then another group arrived.
    It was already getting a lot cooler as we sat out on the terrace, we soon had to put our layers on. James went to get some wood and lit the fire and when we saw them setting the tables outside we requested to eat inside.

    The meal was good similar to most we have eaten but better quality. Soup, meatballs and vermicelli pasta.
    No drinks only our water.
    After we had eaten James did some games , the matchstick one and picnic and then one with cards I hadn't seen before. Everyone seemed to enjoy them.
    Early start in the morning so hope we all sleep well.
    James has started coughing, a bit chest!
    Gregg and Olav went to hospital in Marrakech last night where he was treated well. He had a CT scan, more bloods etc and now has antibiotics and meds for his asthma. They are staying in Marrakech until we get there.
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  • Walking in Toubkal National Park

    October 11 in Morocco ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    I shared a room with Kim as there weren't enough rooms for the couples to be together and leave Kim and Wen separate rooms. Not very good organisation!
    It took me a while to get to sleep but then I slept well. We had ro be up for breakfast at 6 30 and to set off on a walk at 7.
    It was cool but not cold as we set off in the shade of the mountains. The highest mountain in Morocco Toubkal was just up the valley. It is a 2 day hike to climb it.
    We were to walk up to a Muslim shrine about an hour and a half walk away. The path was up the dry river valley and then gently making our way slowly up the zigzag path. We passed a couple of stations on the way where there was a building or a cafe, all was quite and there weren't many people about.
    It was a steady climb but not difficult, the sun soon started to work its way into the valley.
    The shrine was a big painted rock with a building by it. Non Muslims weren't allowed to go inside. There were two flags a green one representing nature and a white one for peace.
    There was also a waterfall nearby.
    We looked around for a short time and then began the descent back the way we had come. It was much busier now with people and heavily laden mules coming up in a steady stream. As we got lower there were lots of people who looked like they were off to climb the mountain.
    The sun had chased the shade away and it was lovely and warm by now.

    Making our way back to the hostel to catch up with some who had chosen to stay.

    Early lunch was tasty, eggs and tomatoes and onion cooked in a tagine and lentils.

    We had to walk back to the hotel that we had left iur bags in. It seemed much longer and more complicated than when we had walked it the previous day.

    M and David were leaving us to go home as M-s mum wasn't well. It was sad to see them go.

    We now had another 4 to 5 hour journey in thr minibus to Essaouira on the coast. Stopping at an Argan producing place on the way. We were all tired and it seemed a very long way.
    The mountains eventually gave way to miles and miles of flat plains with numerous olive trees planted in a more orderly fashion than previously. The road through the mountains was excruciatingly bendy with bend aft bend for what seemed hours. Muhammad is an excellent driver and made it as comfortable as possible. I was glad to be sitting in the front though.

    Argan oil comes from nuts of a grayish green tree, only grown in the area we were passing through. The oil is used for cooking but not frying as it is a delicate oil.
    It's main use is in beauty and hair care. I had wanted some before we came away for my hair. So we brought a bottle.

    Eventually reaching Essaouira where we said goodbye to Muhammad.

    Our bags were taken in a hand cart as no cars are permitted in the narrow streets.

    We went to a seafood restaurant and had a table on the top floor. The menu was good with all sorts of fish. Far more choices than in the UK. I chose John Dory which was very nice, we shared a goats cheese salad to start, it was delicious with walnuts and honey.
    The meal l was good and we had some alcohol, James shared some white wine with Sean and Bridget. An African group came in a little after us and began to play around a table in the next room. That was great and very energetic but then they climbed onto the stage behind our table, it was sjust to loud and we couldn't talk. It was a shame as otherwise it was a lovely evening. Mo had organised a Birthday cake for Bridget who's Birthday it is tomorrow.
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  • Exploring Essaouira

    October 12 in Morocco ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Woke up with James cold, which is annoying.
    Breakfast was good. We were served individually with bread, flat breads, honey yoghurt and hot boiled eggs.

    Heading out for a walk with a guide, round the old Medina, which was all closed up as it is Sunday. The town was on of the oldest ports in Morocco and has a 7km wall around it. It is still a busy fishing port, with sardine fishing fleet and many other fish and seafood caught in nearby waters. The harbour was full of small blue boats bobbing about. All having a rest day it being Sunday.
    There was a very strong fish smell where ever we went in the port. A couple of chaps were gutting fish on the sea wall and throwing the entrails to the gulls and cats. The air was full of hundreds of hungry seagulls mostly young ones.

    It was nice to be in a cooler place with a little cool breeze. Being in Essaouira was like stepping back from the bustle of some of the places we have been and it was refreshing.
    James and I stopped for a light lunch, cheese omelette and a cuppa in a cafe. One of many along the narrow streets.
    A lot of people here speak French.

    We went to a Hamman, where we were washed and then scubbed to with exfoliating mits. It was quite tough but envigorating. Then we were thoroughly rinsed before having a relaxing massage. It was all most enjoyable. We were very chilled afterwards and went for a nap.

    There were fewer of us for dinner and we went to a much quieter restaurant. We had a good tasty meal and a good chat.

    James and I went for a wander, the streets had come alive and there were people selling stuff everywhere. All the shops were open and people had set up carts and boards and even pop up beds to display their wares. From fake trainers to fish to vegetables olives, nuts snd pottery. Lots of hair and body products as well.
    It felt friendly and lots of families were out and about.

    The whole place is full of cats thee are hundreds of them. So many being ginger and white. It has made me miss our ginger boys.

    Heading to Marrakech tomorrow.
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  • Public bus to Marrakech

    October 13 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We had booked a public bus to take us to Marrakech about 3 hour drive.. The bus left at 9 from near to the harbour, it was quite full but good to have more space and a higher view.

    The journey was uneventful and we went out to find lunch after checking into our rooms.
    We went to a noodle bar just nearby and it was very tasty .

    After wondering round a shopping centre and checking out a posh supermarket we went back for a nap.
    I have been taking Paracetamol for the last 48hrs to keep me going as I have James bug now. I thought I was doing well having no teen ill as most of us have.

    We were heading out at 4.45 to meet a guide to take us round the medina and square.

    We piled into Taxis our driver was good but one of the either was crazy!
    We were dropped off near to Koutoubia Mosque with it's 12th Century minaret which is visible for miles around.
    The medina wasn't as busy as in Fez. It was interesting and we are all acclimatised to the bustle now. Motorbikes pulled carts just able to get through the narrow lanes and people loaded high with goods. We had heard that the vendors are very pushy in Marrakech but didn't really notice this.
    When we came out into the Djemaa-el-Fna Square, this is the largest public place in Morocco, it was alive, people selling all sorts setting up stalls, women offering henna tattoo's, acrobats performing and much more.
    We walked across one side as we went to a spice shop to be shown some of their goods. James brought some foot cream.

    We were both sagging and were happy to go to dinner in a rooftop restaurant which was nice and cool. It was very busy but there were lots of staff. We just had a starter salad each and shared some chips. Both were very good.
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  • Marrakech

    October 14 in Morocco ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    Sadly we both felt poorly the next day, I went straight back to sleep after breakfast.
    Then James slept for most of the afternoon, while I did some of my diary.

    The day was a free day to explore Marrakech, but the furthest we went was to the supermarket 10 minutes walk away to get a picnic lunch.

    We were both coughing and full of cold, taking regular paracetamol, and felt pretty rubbish.

    We rallied to go for the Last Supper, which was in a nearby restaurant, smarter than any we had been to before.
    We had a lovely meal and a fun evening together before we left for home the next day.
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  • Home

    October 15 in England ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We left for the airport at 7.45 with Micheal and Annie, a very calm drive arriving in plenty of time for our 11.40 flight to Luton.
    We were shopping for camels for the grandchildren of course we couldn't find the ones we had seen everywhere and expected to be able to purchase.

    The flight was fairly full, but we had an empty seat next to us which meant we could spread out a bit.
    We both dozed as we didn't feel very well.
    We had a female pilot, and James had a joke with her as we had boarded. He spoke to her as we exited too, but surprisingly not about ĺSkydiving.
    We jumped on a waiting train and started our journey to Nottingham. Alex kindly picked us up and dropped us home.
    The cats and Lewis were pleased to see us.

    We picked up pizza as an easy dinner.
    It was BLISS getting into our bed, with cool clean sheets and a soft wrap around duvet.
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    Trip end
    October 15, 2025