Ollantaytambo & the Sacred Valley

Back on the train I got, and headed back to Ollantaytambo, which I had briefly passed through on my may to Machu Picchu. There are many more Incan ruins in the Sacred Valley, with Ollantaytambo beingLeggi altro
Back on the train I got, and headed back to Ollantaytambo, which I had briefly passed through on my may to Machu Picchu. There are many more Incan ruins in the Sacred Valley, with Ollantaytambo being one of the most impressive. The town is one of the most intact Incan towns, with original walls, layout, and irriagtion systems still in place. And looming over the town are the ruins of a sun and moon temple at the top of a steep terrace. Ollantaytambo is also the site of one of the few defeats of the Spanish by the Incans, which may be why the Spanish never made it as far as Machu Picchu.
Leaving Ollantaytambo, I went to visit some of the sites in the Sacred Valley. First up was Moray, an Incan ruin of terraces in concentric circles. The differing levels of terraces in Moray results in a temperature difference of 5 °C from the top to the bottom, so the structure acts a bit like a greenhouse allowing them to grow crops that they otherwise couldn't in that environment. Next I went to see the Maras salt mines, where salt is mined from 4500 individual terraced pools fed by the mineral rich river water. It's unclear when the mines were bulit, but they are pre-Incan and are thought to be from 500 - 1100 AD. The mines are still in use today and have been continuously used since their construction.
My final destination in the valley was Chinchero, more Incan ruins of terraces and irrigation systems, topped with a Spanish colonial town from 1607 that was built on top of the Incan palace. Chinchero is also the home of Peruvian weaving, so it was a good place to stop and see some alpacha producs, and of course the alpachas themselves!Leggi altro
The reason I had to leave Arequipa sooner than I wanted to was because I had tickets to see Machu Picchu, which you have to buy weeks in advance. As soon as I arrived in Cusco, I was straight off again to Ollantaytambo, where I had to catch my train to Agua Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu. The train line runs through the Sacred Valley along a part of the Inca Trail, through beautiful valleys and past Inca ruins.
After a night in Agua Calientes, I got an early bus up the mountain ready for my 8am time slot. The bus makes multiple switchbacks up the very steep mountain, but we made it up to beautiful views of the early moring mist over the steep hillsides. Climbing up the steep stone steps, I eventually got to see the classic view of Machu Picchu. It really is incredible to see, perched right on the mountain top. Machu Picchu was built around 1450, and is theorised to have been a private city for Incan royalty. It was only inhabited for about a century before being abandoned during the Spanish invasion.
Before heading down into the Machu Picchu site proper, I went to see the Inca Bridge. The main historical entrance to Machu Picchu was via the Sun Gate, which is where the Inca trail leads. On the other side of the mountain is a secret entry to the city, which keads through a narrow path carved into sheer cliff face. The Inca Bridge is a section of the path which has a large gap that can be bridged with two tree trunks, but is otherwise impassable by invaders. I walked along the path to see this bridge, some of which is along very sheer drops! But it was very interesting and makes you wonder how on earth they built it. And the views were beautiful!
I then headed into the central part of the site to see some of the famous Incan masonry up close. Incan buildings are often composed of precisely cut stone that are closely fitten without mortar. The city structures are surrounded by stepped terraces etched into the steep mountainsides, with llamas roaming around. Having been a bit doubtful about visiting Machu Picchu, believing it to be a bit overhyped, I was actually really impressed and can absolutely see why it's considered a wonder. It's beautiful and absolutely worth the trip!Leggi altro
As a side trip from Arequipa I visited the Colca Canyon, one of the deepest canyons in the world at 1 - 2000 metres deep. Arequipa is sat at around 2335 metres above sea level, and that was already giving me trouble. The highest point that I reached on the canyon was 4800 metres above sea level, I felt sick as a dog at that level! I felt queasy and shakey as I walked a few metres to a viewpoint to see some volcanoes. Still, at least I didn't need oxygen like the woman next to me on the bus! I tried chewing coca leaves too but they didn't quite do the trick.
As well as some beautiful scenery and volcanoes, I saw some very cute llamas and alpacas, which are very characterful. I also had my first sighting of vicuñas, the wild relative to the alpacha, with very expensive wool! We finished the day up with a dip in a hot spring built into the valley. As scenic as it was, the water was nowhere near hot enough for me, especially as the air temperature was bloody freezing at that altitude! We then spent the night in the picturesque town of Chivay.
On the 2'nd day in the canyon, we headed out early to the Cruz del Condor to see the famous Andean Condor, one of the largest birds in the world with a wingspan of up to 3.3 metres. The scenery was also stunning here, with extremely steep and deep valleys that you can't even see the bottom of. We also passed through a beautiful valley covered in the pre-columbian stepped terraces that you see all over the andean region of peru. These terraces have survived for over 500 years and many are still in use today. We stopped to try some sanky juice, a fruit that only grows in the Andes. It's a fruit from a cactus that was a bit like a cross between a kiwi and a dragon fruit. Apparently it's very good for you, and it was very tasty!Leggi altro
After a long night bus I finally arrived in Arequipa in southern Peru, my favourite Latin American city since Mexico City. Arequipa is famous for its grand colonial architecture made from white volcanic rock, which when seen in the sun against the backdrop of snow capped volcanes was really beautiful. Despite the frequent earthquakes in the region, one of which happened a few weeks earlier that I had felt 400km away in Lima, there are still a lot of interesting historical buildings to be seen. Ok, many of the buildings have been rebuilt multiple times but they are still beautiful!
The entire historical centre of Arequipa is a UNESCO world heritage site. The Plaza de Armas (main square) by the Arequipa Cathedral is a beautiful spot to sit amongst the locals as the sun is setting and enjoy a queso helado, or "cheese ice cream". Despite its name queso helado doesnt actually have any cheese in it, it's made from milk, egg yolks, sugar, coconut, cinnamon and cloves. It is sold on every street corner from traditional wooden vats and it's very delicious! Some more of the excellent Peruvian cuisine that I tried was Caldo de Gallina, or hen soup, which was perfect for the cold nights at high altitude. Lomo saltado is another peruvian favourite, which is basically stirfried beef with onions, peppers, and tomatoes, served with chips and rice. Peru is the only country other than Wales where I've seen chips and rice served together so I had to try it! I guess that as Peru is the home of the potato they want to put it in everything and I can't really blame them.
One of the most famous sites to visit in Arequipa is the Monastery of Santa Catalina. The huge site dates back to the 16th century and was a working monastery that housed about 300 isolated nuns until 1970. It was completely shrouded in mystery until it opened it's doors to the public, surrounded by a 4 meter high wall that no one other than the nuns were allowed to pass. It was an amazing site, a huge city within a city complete with picturesque alleyways and courtyards, lined with living quarters, kitchens, study areas, and churches.
On my last evening in Arequipa there was a huge party to celebrate the 400 and something anniversary of the founding of the city! I didn't realise that this was happening until I heard the fireworks booming away, so I had to go and see what was happening. I got to the Plaza de Armas just in time to see a celebratory parade, starting with some 10 foot tall skeletons! As they teetered past many other processions filed past in various outifts, some traditional and some just fun, along with scenes on trailers and lots of music. There were also street parties going on, long tables lining the street serving drinks and grilled meat. I felt lucky to catch this celebration before I had to move on.Leggi altro
One site in Peru that I was excited to see was the Nazca lines, geoglyphs from 500BC to 500AD that you had to take to the sky to see. The geoglyphs were made by removing the top red layer of rock, revealing a yellow layer of rick below. There are hundreds of lines, many are straight lines or simple patters, and around 70 are animal designs often made from one single line.
I headed up in a tiny 8 seater propeller plane that is notorious for making people motion sick as it twists and turns in the sky to give everyone a chance to see the lines. It was a little scary, but once we were up it was amazing, you quickly get distracted by the huge patterns and the beautiful landscape. Some the patterns included a spider, whale, hummingbird, lizard, flamingo, condor, monkey, tree, and what they call the "astronaut". It was a fascinating experience, but i was glad to be back on solid ground.
With a few hours to kill before I needed to catch my bus, I went to see Cahuachi Pyramids and the Cementerio de Chauchilla, both from the Nazca culture around 1-900 AD. The extremely dry climate means that the mummies in the cemetery are very well preserved, with the remains of bone, hair and even skin being seen. Before they were protected, many of the tombs were broken open by grave robbers to steal the archeological items for sale, which is why they can be viewed now. There are many more that are undiscovered. It was a very eerie site, but very interesting.Leggi altro
Out of Lima I headed to a the town of Paracas on the coast, so that I could visit the neaby Paracas National Reserve. The reserve protects a huge area of desert and marine ecosystems. With some other travellers I went for a sunset hike along some of the coastline which was stunning.
The next morning I went on a boat trip to see some of the coastline and islands. On the islands we saw penguins, sea lions, and sea birds. We also got to see the Paracas Candelabra, a 600 feet tall geoglyph from the Paracas culture dating from 200 BCE. Later on we headed back to the park by land to see some of the more beautiful viewpoints and beaches, including one of the few red sand beaches in the world.
Paracas is only a few kilometres away from Pisco, one of the places that claims to be the origin of pisco. I stopped to do a tasting, but it doesn't taste as good without the sours! Then i headed into the nearby Huacachina, where I was only spending one night. Huacachina is a town that has sprung up around an oasis in the Pacific Desert. It's super touristy and most people go sand boarding, dune bashing, paragliding etc. I spent my time there drinking pisco sours by the lake!Leggi altro
I arrived back in Lima, a city I'd already spent a week or so in before heading to the Galapagos. I was staying in Miraflores, an area that is considered the most safe, but is not that interesting. It has a nice malecón, or promenade along the coast. Unfortunately with it being mid-winter there was also a near constant cloud coverage so it all looked a bit grim. On the occasional day that the sun was out it all looks so much better, and everybody is out enjoying it. Its like a different city when it's sunny. One thing that i did love about Miraflores was Parque Kennedy, a public park that is filled with cats. They aren't your typical stray cats, they are fed well looked after by local groups. There are boxes and cat houses with blankets dotted around the park, and every night they are fed and watered. Despite the constant clouds, Lima is one of the driest capital cities on earth so the cats seem pretty happy living in their cosy cardboard houses. If you sit in the park a cat will eventually come over to sit on you, after all a warm lap is nicer to sit on than the floor! People love to come to the park just to play with the cats. On weekends people also come to the park to dance and many people also gather around to watch.
I then checked out some of the other sites in Lima, such as the Huaca Pucllana, ruins from the pre-Incan Lima culture. The ruins are from 200-700 AD and were almost completely destroyed for urban development before 1981 when they were protected. Since then they have attempted to preserve and reconstruct the pyramids, and there some pretty interesting reconstructions of tombs and other parts of life in this period.
I also visited the historical centre which is chock full of beautiful colonial buildings, as expected. I also went around some of the markets to taste some of the local produce, including coca leaves, which were nicer than i expected but just left me with a numb tongue. I couldn't bring myself to try the cuy, or guinea pig though! Peru has great food, probably the best in Latin America after Mexico. One of my favourite dishes is cerviche, raw fish marinated in lime juice with slithers of red onions, chili peppers, and coriander, served with corn and sweet potato. I ate this every chance that I got, it's amazing! Another peruvian classic that i was a fan of was the pisco sour, a cocktail made from pisco, lemon juice, and egg white. After visiting the markets for some food, i went to a bar in a historic hotel for a pisco sour cathedral, basically a large pisco sour with 6 shots of pisco! Later that evening i had to deliver the postcard that I'd taken from the barrel post box in the Galapagos. Feeling tipsy after all of that pisco, I delivered the letter to what turned out to be some kind of community centre. The guy that had sent the postcard was there and very excited that it had made it to the centre. That night they happened to be putting on an improv show and invited me to watch. I obviously had no idea what was going on as it was all in Spanish, but it was still quite funny seeing the slapstick moves and telenovela style acting. Although i think the pisco sours helped!Leggi altro
ViaggiatoreAmazing experience Soph! Can imagine how excited he was that someone had taken the time to take and deliver his postcard! Fantastic. xx
Viaggiatore😂 well done Soph I didn’t know you’d taken a postcard to deliver .. it’s a good system the postcard you sent us arrived fairly quickly with a UK stamp 2nd class ( cheapskates! 😆)
On our last full day we arrived on Genovesa Island. The night before we had sailed for about 6 hours, our longest trip yet, on pretty rough water. I barely got any sleep before we moored at 2 am in Great Darwin Bay, a large caldera, so I was grateful for the shelter when we finally got there. In the morning we went onland to see some nesting sea birds including red footed boobys and frigate birds. There were also loads of other birds to be seen such as various gulls and some of Darwins famous finches. We hiked through a small river and then over some lava to reach a viewpoint of the entire caldera.
We went on our last snorkelling session of the trip in deep, choppy waters. I wasn't hopeful to see much as it was high tide, i just saw large shoals of silver fish. But then I finally saw what I had been wanting to see for the whole trip, hammerhead sharks! I saw a couple of the sharks swimming below me and i couldn't believe it, I followed them until I could barely see our tender! I eventually realised that i had to stop following them and head back to the boat, but i was lucky enough to see a few more. Just as it was time to get back on the boat, a huge shoal of rays passed below me, there must have been a hundred or more! It was a magical site seeing them all glide effortlessly through the water.
After lunch we headed to a different part of the island to see some more birds. On the boat trip there we saw some seals, which are much more rare and more difficult to see on Galapagos than sea lions. As we hiked on the clifftops there were thousands of birds and their chicks. As well as the usual boobys, gulls, and frigate birds, we saw herons, hawks, and the Galapagos Owl. Then we headed back to the boat for the last evenings dinner, where we also shared a drink with the crew and thanked them for being awesome. But the crew soon had to get back to work as we had another 6 hours to sail back to Santa Cruz Island, once again on choppy waters.
On our last morning we had one last excursion in Black Turtle Cove, back on Santa Cruz Island. The cove is surrounded by mangrove forrest, which acts as a shelter for many marine animans, and a breeding ground for sharks. Around sunrise we rowed the boat without its engine running near the entrance of one of the mangrove channels, and just waited. Before long you could see that the channel was a highway for turtles, various rays, and reef sharks, as they swam back and forth from the protection of the mangroves to the cove. Mangroves are also nurseries for sharks, so you can see lots of baby sharks of various types swimming about.
The trip was finally over and I have to say that it was worth it, such a unique experience, I loved every second of it! After we were dropped back at the port, I headed back to Puerto Ayora for one more night before heading back to Lima to explore more of South America...Leggi altro
This morning we woke up moored by Santa Cruz Island, the one that I started on. But this time we were on the other side of the island, in an area that can't be accessed by land. The sun was out for a change so the water looked extra beautiful, bright turquoise against the white sand and black volcanic rocks. We hiked though the island, past some basking marine iguanas and brackish lagoons with flamingoes, to an arid area more inalnd. This area was one of the main sites for land iguana conservation. Contrasting to the black of the marine iguanans, land iguanas are a beautiful gold colour. We saw some pretty large ones just chilling in the sun as we hiked. We eventually made it to the top of the hill with a nice view of the surrounding area, before heading back to the boat.
Later in the morning we went on another snorkelling expedition, where we again saw loads of fish and interesting coral. There was a particularly friendly group of sea lions that came out to play with us, often swimming right up to take a good look at us as we looked back at them.
After lunch we set sail for Santiago Island, which is characterised by its more recent volcanic eruptions and lavaflows. The most recent eruption on the island was around 1904-06. We went for a hike on the lava flow on "spaghetti lava" which has the most interesting patterns that looks like bundles of string. This is in contrast to what they call "ow ow lava", which was more explosive in formation and is very spikey and painful to walk on, hence its name. Later that evening we shared some wine on the top deck of the boat to celebrate the sun coming out before dinner.Leggi altro
Day 2 of the boat trip was spent on Floreana Island. In the moring we had a wet landing at a volcanic beach, populated with the usual snoozing sea lions. We headed inland to a lagoon with Galapagos flamingoes. Many species in the Galapagos are named after the Galapagos because they are unique species to the islands, they have been isolated for so long that they have become different species. We then walked to another white sand beach, which is really beautiful with the contrasting black volcanic rocks, turquoise water, and turtles popping up for air every now and then. Next up that morning was some more snorkelling in deep water, where we mostly saw loads of fish plus some turtles.
In the afternoon we took the kayaks out in a beautiful sheltered part of the coast. In the shallower parts the water was crystal clear, so as I rowed around I had a good view of the turtles swimming about below. Out in the deeper areas I frequently saw larger turtles coming up for air, often right next to me. The ever present sea lions also came over to have a nose at times.
Then we went back onland to another volcanic beach to visit the barrel post box. In 1793 an old whisky barrel was used as a post box by passing sailors. Someone would leave their letter in the barrel, and if there were any letters addressed to the sailors onward destination, they would take them to be hand delivered. While the original barrel isn't there anymore, there is one still in use by tourists! People write their postcards and leave them in the barrel, hoping that another tourist from that area will come along and take them home with them to be delivered. I left a couple there myself, and took a card that was addressed to Lima, where I was headed after the Galapagos. Once we were done with our postcards, we visited a lava tunnel, which is essentially a huge cave that had once been filled with lava headed to the ocean. Once back on the boat, we had another amazing meal of fresh fish that the on board chef had bought fresh from passing fishermen. Every meal that he made was excellent, we were certainly spoiled on the boat!Leggi altro