• Curious sea lions
      Frigate bird taking a rest on our boatSo many marine iguanas!An Albatross and its chickBlow holeBlue footed booby and its chickHawkAn Albatross showing off its wingsNazca boobysA bonded Albatross pair and their chick

      Galapagos- Española Island

      July 27, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

      Each day on the yacht would follow a similar pattern, we'd be up and ready for breakfast at around 7:30 am, and then ready to leave the boat at 8:00. We'd head off for a "wet landing", which basically means getting your feet wet, to explore the island a little. We'd be back on the boat for some tea and snacks a couple of hours later and then kitted up and ready to go snorkelling by 11:00. We'd spend around an hour in the water, which is more than enough in these cold waters, before heading back to the boat for a well deserved lunch. We would then be allowed to rest for a couple of hours, I'd usually go and chill on the deck at this point. Sometimes the boat would move to a new location during this period in which case we'd often have frigate birds circling the boat. Then we'd go back out for a "dry landing" at around 15:00, where we'd explore the interior or the island a bit more. Back on the boat a couple of hours later, we'd have another free hour or so before dinner around 6 ish. After dinner we were given a brief from the guide about the next day, after which he always advised us to go to bed early because of the long day. Although they probably just wanted us to go to bed so we'd be out of the crew's hair, they were right we were pretty exhauted after the full days of activities! After dinner around 8pm, the captain would set sail and we'd be off again, usually sailing until around 2am so that we were in a new location for the morning.

      On our first morning we had arrived at Española Island. Our wet landing took us to a beautiful white sand beach, where we could see many species of bird, more marine iguanas, and some characterful sea lions hanging around with a whale carcass. We were given the option for some swimming, but the sun had disappeared that day and i didn't fancy the cold water! Later that mornig we went snorkelling around some rocks, the water was pretty deep and rough but i still loved it as always. There were loads of colourful fish, starfish, interesting coral, and a snoozing turtle. But i was glad to get out of the water after, despite the wet suit!

      In the afternoon we visited the only Albatross colony in the Galapagos. Albatrosses are one of the largest sea birds, with a wingspan of 2.5 - 3.5 metres. A pair mate for several years and are quite sweet as they do their ritual dances of tapping their beaks together. There were lots of chicks when we were there which was great to see. There were also other sea birds and their chicks, such as the blue footed booby and the nazca booby. Once again there were loads of marine iguanas on this island too. But due to the unique way that wildlife has evolved on the Galapagos, each island has its own species. Española island is the only island where the marine iguanas have red patches on their skin. Aside from the wildlife, the scenery was also stunning to see. Even though the sun was well hidden, the cliffs were dramatic and the power of the ocean was fierce. There were a couple of blow holes on the coast, the most impressive one you could hear roaring away for ages before you could actually see it. Done for the day, we headed back to the boat for some excellent food before getting some rest for the next day.
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    • One of the beaches in the town of San Cristobal
      Hiking to a beach out of townBaby sea lion!Kicker Rock, a famous landmarkA giant tortoise in the hatcheryFeeding timeBabt tortoises in the nurseryThe Beluga!My cabin

      Galapagos - San Cristobal Island

      July 23, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      On the move once again, i headed to San Cristobal Island. If i thought that i had seen loads of sea lions on the other island, that was nothing compared to San Cristobal! Sea lions dotted the shore of the town of San Cristobal, walking along the waterfront took me ages as i kept stopping to watch them sunbathing, swimming, and squabbling. I came across a tiny baby sea lion that was just happily entertaining itself, apparently its quite normal for them to spend days at a time alone as their mother goes off to hunt.

      San Cristobal was where i was starting the boat trip. I was due to spend 5 nights on The Beluga, a live aboard yacht that would take me to see some of the other islands that i couldn't reach by ferry. I was collected from the dock by the captain, Isreal. On board the boat i met the guide, Juan, the 8 crew that would be taking care of us, and the other guests. The yacht sleeps 16 people, but aside from me there was only a family of 5 from Switzerland, so there was plenty of room. I had a cabin to myself, there was a nice saloon and dining room, and a large deck with loungers to enjoy the view.

      Before setting sail, we headed back to San Cristobal Island to visit an inland lagoon. However, the weather was so gloomy that day that we couldn't see the lagoon at all! Just thick cloud in every direction. Still, it was interesting to learn about the wildlife and the limited water sources on the island. Then we visited a giant tortoise hatchery, which wasn't so dependant on the weather. The Galapagos Islands are the only place where giant tortoises exist, and each island has its own species. Historically the tortoises didn't have any natural predators on the islands, but humans have hunted them almost to extinction, and introduced species such as rats will eat the eggs and babies. So hatcheries are an important part of their conservation. Eggs are dug up from the nests and incubated until they hatch. The baby tortoises are then kept in nurseries until they are big enough to survive, usually around 5-8 years old, and then released into their natural habitat.

      Back on board The Beluga, we were treated to an amazing three course meal, before we set sail into the night! It was pretty loud on board while we were on the move, not to mention the constant movement of the waves, but i soon got used to it. Every day on the trip we would set sail after dinner, get an early night and then wake up in a new exciting destination to explore ...
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    • Snoozing sea lions are everywhere
      Reef sharksMarine iguanasGiant tortoises strolling down the roadA ray in the surfA rainbow appeared at the top of Volcan Sierra Negra as the clouds clearedA view of the sulphur mines from the volcano rimA sulphur ventTaking in some sulphur gasLos TunelesA blue footed booby incubating its eggsA baby tortoise

      Galapagos - Isabela Island

      July 11, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      After Isla Santa Cruz I jumped on a public ferry and headed to Isla Isabela for a few days. Puerto Villamil, the main town on Isla Isabela is much quieter than Puerto Ayora, but it made up for that by having a 5km stretch of pristine beach right on its doorstep. I would frequently stroll alongside the almost deserted beach, looking out for sea birds, crabs, and the occasional ray hiding in the sand.

      The nature on Isla Isabela was my favourite, almost every day i would go out walking or cycling along the Camino de Tortugas Gigantes, or the Walk of the Giant Tortoises. I came across many giant tortoises, sometimes they were hiding in the bush but sometimes they were just confidently strolling down the road! The camino also led to beautiful cliff tops and small beaches with huge marine iguanas sunning themselves. There was also an estuary that you could get to by wading through a mangrove forrest. If you got the timing right you could be in the estuary while the marine birds are feeding, i was in the water while blue footed boobies and pelicans were dive bombing the water in unison all around me. While this was going on sea lions and penguins were also swimming right past, presumably also on the hunt for food. I felt a bit like I was in a disney movie! There was also incredible snorkeling right outside of town, with turtles a metre long, huge rays, and yet more sea lions!

      When i wasn't exploring the island independently, i was on boat trips to see other areas. One iconic place to visit on Isla Isabela is Los Tuneles, a unique volcanic formation that shelters a lot of marine life including turtles, reef sharks, rays, and sea horses. There were even some penguins zipping about. I went on a few more snorkelling trips where i saw more of the same animals, but i never got bored of it!

      Taking a break from the ocean, i headed inland to some old sulphur mines in one of the crater of Volcan Sierra Negra. We headed up to the crater rim, driving through thick cloud and past trees covered in moss, before reaching the crater rim where luckily the clouds had cleared. We hiked down into the crater and up to some steaming vents where there was a thick odour of sulphur. The bright yellow of the sulphur was all around, and we could only spend around 30 minutes at the mines before we had to leave due to the sulphur smoke. It may have knocked a few years off my life but it was worth it for the views!
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    • Puerto Ayora
      Watching sunrise from my hotelHungry birds waiting for scrapsTurtle Bay beachA marine iguanaSea lions chillingA frigate bird off Santa Fe IslandThe boat trip to Santa Fe IslandOur snorkelling spot by Santa FeFish sheltering under our boatSea lions are everywhere in town!

      Galapagos - Santa Cruz

      July 6, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Next up was a real bucket list destination, the Galapagos Islands! I flew to Santa Cruz island via mainland Ecuador, and even on the bus from the airport to Puerto Ayora, the main town on the island, I saw marine birds, huge land iguanas, and a giant tortoise casually strolling the road. I knew at this point that it was going to be a special place!

      Much of my first few says spent on Santa Cruz was spent trying to organise a last minute sleep on boat trip. But even time spent in the town is a marvel as there are hundreds of maine iguanas sunning themselves on the lava stone paving, but there are also countless sea lions, herons, pelican, crabs, and multiple other forms of wildlife right there in the town. The local beach also homes many sea lions that swim and sunbathe along with the tourists and locals. Any spare time that I had in Puerto Ayora was spent either chilling with the sea lions on the beach, or sat by the fishing boats watching the sea lions and pelican hoping for some scraps.

      I also hiked out to Turtle Bay, a white sand beach famous for its turtles, and visited the Charles Darwin research centre for information on some of the conservation work being done in the area. Wanting to explore a bit further I went on a day boat trip to Santa Fe, a small island about an hour away from Santa Cruz. The Galapagos is in the middle of the Pacific, so once you get away from the shelter of the land, the water is pretty rough. We braved the waves and even though I got drenched, I wasn't sick so I saw that as a win. First we went around to look at some sea birds on the rocks, including red chested frigate birds, then we found a nice sheltered bay with a large sea lion colony. The water was bright turquoise and crystal clear so we did sime snorkelling; i saw turtles, rays, plenty of fish, plus swam with some of the sea lions that were chilling on the rocks.

      Back on Santa Cruz I finally negotiated a deal for a space on a yacht, but I had a week or so to kill before it started so I went off to do some island hopping first...
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    • A resting hummingbird
      Some of the beautiful fungi in the forestA blurry shot of the Resplendent QuetzalA sleeping toucanTiny frogSpot the sick insectTouring a coffee farmA pit-stopZip-lining on my birthday!The zip-lining teamBirthday cocktails in the poolNatural hot springsMoneys were frequently in the forest around the poolsStrolling the beach at Tamarindo

      Costa Rica part 2

      June 17, 2024 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      Next up we headed to Monteverde in the cloud forest. We kept driving up and up until we were driving through clouds. The cloud forest is an interesting place with unique mosses and fungi growing all over the place. We saw more interesting insects, butterflies, frogs, monkeys and birds, including the much sought after Resplendent Quetzal. We also took a tour of the forest at night and saw more of the same plus fireflies, spiders, including a huge tarantula, a snoozing toucan, and we were very lucky to see a White-Nosed Coati, a mammal that belongs to the raccoon family.

      Our next destination was a special treat for my 40th birthday! We headed to a fabulous hot spring resort deep in the forest with chalet style accommodations. As an extra surprise, mum had booked zip-lining for us! It was exhilarating as we flew through the canopies and over deep canyons. I absolutely loved this and it was a perfect birthday treat! Dad seemed to enjoy it too but I'm not too sure how much mum enjoyed it 😅

      After the exhilaration of the zip-lining we had to check out the resort facilities. Even though it was raining we went for a dip in the pool for a mojito, then we checked out the hot springs. There were three pools of varying temperatures, I of course preferred the hottest one, at least for a while! I also smeared myself in the volcanic mud which is supposed to be good for your skin or something, I'm not too convinced but it was fun! It was pretty blissful passing time in the springs, at times watching the spider monkeys and toucans in the overhanging trees.

      For our final stop we spent a couple of days in the beach resort of Tamarindo. There was a nice and bustling beach over the road to the hotel which we strolled along, plus a strip of nice shops, bars and restaurants. We had some excellent seafood including my favourite, fish tacos. The rest of the time we enjoyed the pool facilities with another swim-up bar for some good cocktails and beers!

      Once again I loved having my parents visit, I really enjoyed the trip and hope they did too. Thank you for coming ♥️
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    • Costa Rica - La Fortuna

      June 12, 2024 in Costa Rica ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      Flying back from Cuba I had a few days before another treat, my parents were flying out for a visit! I got to the airport just in time to surprise them before we picked up the hire car and headed to a resort overlooking San Jose. We only spent a night there before heading to La Fortuna, where we stayed in a resort with an amazing view of Arenal Volcano and multiple hot springs at various temperatures. It was lovely to relax in one of these watching the hummingbirds zipping about.

      Our first activity was a trip around Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Nature Preserve, where we walked through the forest and canopy viewing a multitude of snakes, frogs, insects, bats, and birds. Costa Rica is one of the most biodiverse countries in the world, so there's plenty to see! But of course the most famous animal is the sloth. So the next day we headed out on a specific sloth safari, where we headed to certain patches of trees that were known to house sloths. It didn't take long to find some thanks to the beady eyes of the guide. We watched one three toed sloth climbing around in a tree, they both seem to move in slow motion and are faster than you'd expect. While viewing this sloth we also saw a large toucan hopping about, which is another very cool sight! We moved on to see some more sloths in other parts of the area, seeing a few more three toed sloths, and a couple of two toed sloths, which had longer and shaggier fur. As you watch them through the binoculars you can see the moths that live in their fur crawling about. They're lovely creatures but I can't imagine that they smell too good!

      On our final rainy afternoon in La Fortuna mum and I headed to a chocolate farm, where we saw some chocolate trees and learnt a bit about how they grow and make chocolate. We also got to see a small part of the process and taste some at different parts of the process. Best of all was trying spoonfuls of melted chocolate with different flavours such as spices, fruits, nuts, or liquors. You could go back as many times as you wanted to try as many different combinations as you wanted. My favourite was probably the Mayan spice mix, as I became such a fan of that while in Mexico!
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    • Viñales

      June 7, 2024 in Cuba ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

      Escaping the chaos of Havana, we headed a few hours west to Viñales. The main road to Viñales was pretty quiet, with very few cars on the road, in part because of the sanctions leading to fuel shortages. There were some long queues at some of the petrol stations.

      Viñales Valley is famous for its beautiful landscape and traditional methods for growing tobacco. We had another great host that made us breakfast every morning on the rooftop overlooking the town and the beautiful hills. We explored the area by hiring a taxi to take us around for the day. He turned up in an old school taxi drove us around the gorgeous countryside. We visited a cave where escaped slaves hid back in the colonial times, but is now a bar. Then we visited a tobacco farm, where a man showed us how to roll a cigar and smoke it the Cuban way. As fun as it was I don't think it's a skill that I'll be using any time soon! Then we went off to see a cliff that had been painted with a mural with dinosaurs sometime in the 1960's. It felt a bit like they were scraping the bottom of the barrel of what to show us at this point! But we finished up at a miradore (viewpoint) overlooking the valley so the day ended with a high point!

      Viñales town was pretty small and quiet, we wandered the streets and looked in some of the shops and market. People definitely moved at a slower pace here than in Havana! We also enjoyed some of the excellent cocktails, we loved anything rum based like mojitos, daquris, Pina/mango coladas. One evening there was a street party going on, with food and drinks being sold in the street along with music. There were also some pretty old looking fairground rides, including a small rollercoaster and a pirate ship ride. I'm sure they were perfectly safe but I didn't feel brave enough to take a ride!

      We headed back to Havana for one more day before flying out. I loved Cuba, it was a beautiful and fascinating place, but going through some hard times. It was also unbearably hot and humid, I was so eager to be sipping mojitos with Mel that we forgot to check the weather report! But I would love to visit again at a cooler time of year 😅
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    • Havana

      June 4, 2024 in Cuba ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

      With a quick bus across Costa Rica to the capital San Jose, I hopped on a flight and was off to Cuba! I had been looking forward to finally meeting up with one of my besties Mel! We got this beautiful apartment in Old Havana where a lady came every morning and made us an amazing breakfast. Eager to explore we headed out into the city. Havana was founded in 1519 by the Spanish so has a lot of really beautiful architecture. However the sanctions of the last half century means that many of them have fallen into disrepair. It's both beautiful and sad to see these buildings, a lot of them with only the facade remaining or totally missing a roof. Yet often people will still be living there and by night you'll see lights inside.

      One of the other side effects of these sanctions is the number of vintage cars in Cuba. A must do activity for us was to take a tour of Havana in one of these cars. We found a guy (or he found us more like) with a bright pink 1950's Buick. We toured the city for a couple of hours like ladies of leisure, taking on some of the famous sights and historic buildings, and driving through some of the more affluent suburbs. Driving through Havana's streets feels timeless the roads don't have modern infrastructure and there are no billboards or advertisements. There are vehicles on the road from every decade since the 50's in various states of repair. Nothing is thrown away in Cuba, everything is repaired or recycled into a different use.

      We spent the rest of our time wandering the streets, admiring the street art, being serenaded by buskers, and trying multiple mojitos. As Havana is supposedly the home of the mojito it would be rude not to!
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    • Ometepe

      May 26, 2024 in Nicaragua ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      One final stop in Nicaragua was to the volcanic island of Ometepe. Ometepe is made up of two volcanoes in the vast Lake Nicaragua. One of the volcanoes, Volcan Conception, is an active volcano that last erupted in 2010... that is until about a week before I arrived! I saw huge plumes of smoke on videos circling on the news and social media, but with no advisories to avoid the area being issued I headed off to the island anyway, and luckily it paid off as there were no further eruptions!

      The trip starts with an hour long ferry from the mainland, giving a perfect view of both of the volcanoes getting closer and closer. When in the port town of Moyogalpa I rented a quad bike (because I was too chicken/sensible to hire a scooter) to explore the island for a couple of days. Being so isolated from the mainland, Ometepe is a much more chilled and peaceful place than I had experienced so far in Central America. There are very few other vehicles on the roads, and I was just as likely to see someone riding a cow as on a vehicle.

      I rode off in the glaring sunshine towards the other volcano, where I stopped at some spring fed pools to cool down. The weather since I had left El Salvador had been oppressively hot and humid, so this was a much needed break. However as I was there the weather seemed to break and a tropical storm rolled on. I ran for cover in the little restaurant as it passed, and I was kind of glad that the temperature didn't quite recover to the previous highs for my remaining time in Nicaragua. However, this did mean that the volcanoes were almost permanently covered with clouds after this!

      Due to the tropical climate and the volcanic ash, Ometepe is very fertile and has rich agriculture. One night I stayed at an ecolodge that grew all of its own food, and specialised in growing chocolate. The onsite restaurant had amazing vegetarian food and an amazing range of drinks and food containing cocoa. The change in the weather continued and I got caught in another downpour while on the quad! Luckily I had a poncho to keep my bag dry but I must have looked a sight driving through the pouring rain with nothing but sunglasses to keep my eyes dry as I looked for somewhere to stop and take cover. But as always with tropical weather, the rain soon passed so I headed to Mango Beach to chill with a cocktail while watching the clouds think about leaving the peak of Conception Volcano.

      After a couple of days exploring the island by quad I headed back to Moyogalpa to return the quad. But I was enjoying the island vibe so I found a guesthouse with a pool to hang around in for a few more days before I had to head off to my next exciting destination...
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    • Leon & Granada

      May 14, 2024 in Nicaragua ⋅ 🌩️ 31 °C

      Another day in Latin America, another beautiful colonial town! There's no shortage of colonial towns in this part of the world, and they only seem to get more beautiful. After leaving El Salvador by small boat, we crossed the Gulf of Fonseca and landed on a black sand beach in Nicaragua. We had to take our shoes off and wade to the shore, it all seemed like a bit of a dodgy way to enter a country! But sure enough, when we got off the beach there were some immigration officers there ready to check us into the country before getting on a bus to Leon.

      Leon is one of the more gritty colonial towns in Central America, with a lively revolutionary history. The beautiful and colourful buildings are contrasted with revolutionary street art. The history of violent revolution in this area spans from the 60-70's when the war to overthrow the Somoza regime became a proxy war between the Russians and Americans, to the 2018 protests against the current regime. I visited a revolution museum that was interesting enough when discussing the more historical conflicts, but was clearly giving out a heavy dose of propaganda when discussing the more recent 2018 protests. According to this museum, the protesters were planted by America to make the government look bad, because clearly no Nicaraguans are dissatisfied with the way that the country is being run. And people dressed as police, but who definitely weren't police, and weren't ordered by the government to beat the protesters resulting in around 30 deaths. Sure Jan.
      Aside from learning about the interesting history, there were plenty of beautiful old churches, plazas and streets to explore, I always enjoyed looking at the high camp that is the catholic art. I also spent a lot of time trying to avoid the unbearable heat! Whether that be in air conditioned cafes or in the tiny hostel pool with a beer.
      Granada is a more polished colonial town on the shore of the huge Lake Nicaragua. The colourful streets are particularly attractive with the volcanoes visible in the distance. Granada was named in 1524 and is supposedly the earliest colonial town in mainland America. With many streets to explore and rooftops to visit, I spent a few days in Grenada before heading to the beautiful Laguna de Apoyo for a day of relaxation. The Lagoon is a crater lake in an extinct volcano and is a perfect place to spend a day chilling with a cocktail and taking a dip to cool down!
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